I forget what they are called, but they make these butt connectors with low temperature solder inside and heat shrink on the outside. Just put all 3 exposed connectors together and heat the whole thing up with a lighter and you are done.
https://solderseal.com/
I already have these. I really want to tap into the vehicle wiring without cutting it. I found the solution on Amazon. Just waiting for delivery now to do the project.
Care to share what you found?
I don't know how to download the link. These are on Amazon.
I would recommend using a step-down butt splice over these devices. You said you want to avoid cutting the factory wiring; my assumption is you wish to avoid any warranty issues. I don't think these devices meet that objective, mainly because you are arguably doing worse than cutting the wire.
I would recommend using a step-down butt splice over these devices. You said you want to avoid cutting the factory wiring; my assumption is you wish to avoid any warranty issues. I don't think these devices meet that objective, mainly because you are arguably doing worse than cutting the wire.
These connectors work by cutting through the insulation to allow the contact in the connector access to the wire conductor (the wire strands inside). Take a look at the photo below from Wirefly's website showing how the connector works.
There are many disadvantages to using these. For example, if you don't get the wire positioned precisely the cutter inside the connector may sever or partially sever the conductor. And even if you install them precisely as the manufacturer intends, these connectors do not provide an environmental seal. If you allow air to get to the conductor it will eventually result in oxidization/corrosion.
When correctly installed, a step-down butt connector with integrated waterproof heat shrink is a much more durable long-term connector.
You can't. My point is you can't use T-taps without ALSO cutting the wire. You may avoid cutting the conductor using a T-tap, but you MUST cut the insulation, exposing the conductor to the elements.
My other option will be to strip some of the insulation from the factory wire. Wrap the Tetico wire around it. Solder the connection, and coat good with liquid electrical tape. Either way I'll probably be getting another new vehicle within 4 or 5 years. Even sooner if Ford would put the 2.0 motor in the Outer Banks.
That's awesome! Thanks for posting this. I purchased these lights and have been looking for connectors to install them. This works for me.
To each their own. I see no need for a side marker or DRL on these vehicles. I can see the directional because the mirrors no longer have turn signals on them. Th side already has front and rear side markers. The DRL are headlights only and don't even light the taillights. Why do you need a light on the side of the vehicle while it's running? I have my directional only set and will be installing it with pictures in a week or two.
Not to worry. I've been a mechanic for 60 years. I know my way around a soldering gun.
