Waiting room

[Little Wild Boar]

Now that I’m confirmed built and just waiting on transport the accessory orders are starting to stack up. Dash tray, center console tray, wireless CarPlay adapter, hood struts, the side panel turn signal replacement for the decorative “vents,” valve stem caps… ?

Be careful with valve stem caps... Heard lots of horror stories...

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[Melzz]

Be careful with valve stem caps... Heard lots of horror stories...

Do tell! I haven’t seen or heard anything but there they were in suggested along with everything else I was looking at. What problems are people having?

 

[Little Wild Boar]

Do tell! I haven’t seen or heard anything but there they were in suggested along with everything else I was looking at. What problems are people having?

Ibguesd

Do tell! I haven’t seen or heard anything but there they were in suggested along with everything else I was looking at. What problems are people having?

I don't know if it was official or knock off.. but the metal in them would fuse to the valve stem and basically become part of the tire...

 

[Melzz]

Ibguesd

I don't know if it was official or knock off.. but the metal in them would fuse to the valve stem and basically become part of the tire...

Ah, I got plastic ones that are Ford “officially licensed.” Hopefully no metal fusing worries there. I just wanted the subtle flare of the bronco on them. Good to know to be careful of the metal ones, though!

 

[Dtech]

Not specifically on a Bronco, but I can definitely share that any "metal" valve stem caps need to be used carefully if at all because they can and do get seized onto the valve stems, sometimes in a short amount of time, requiring at minimum some tools/pliers to get them off with difficulty and being careful not to ruin the valve stem. I personally won't use them any more because of this as they can actually end up doing this at the worst possible time. Definitely a safety concern and in the effort to keep them clean and uncontaminated you don't really want to use any type of lubricant or anti-seize on them either IMHO.

 

[WABeaverFan]

Ok, I've been lurking for awhile. I finally got the sticker from my dealer and thus the VIN for tracking. I know many have said that the tracker is not terribly reliable but I'm curious what you all think. It says built 6/03 and the text above says shipped. But, the little pizza maker bubble isn't checked. I assume it was really shipped??

Similar situation....my BS was built on June 2 and shipped on June 9. It arrived at the rail yard in Portland, OR on June 23 with an estimated delivery to the dealer in Kent, WA July 7-13. Based on thekingprawn's experience, a 12-17 day delivery timeline to my dealership seems about right, considering the 4th of July holiday and the current trucking situation. But my tracker still looks exactly like yours with no check mark under "shipped".

Did you receive a built email from Ford? My built email gave me an estimated date range for delivery to the dealer. You can also contact your dealership or Ford Chat for your railcar number if you want to follow it along obsessively like some of us have done! Hope this helps!

 

[Zwemmer]

Similar situation....my BS was built on June 2 and shipped on June 9. It arrived at the rail yard in Portland, OR on June 23 with an estimated delivery to the dealer in Kent, WA July 7-13. Based on thekingprawn's experience, a 12-17 day delivery timeline to my dealership seems about right, considering the 4th of July holiday and the current trucking situation. But my tracker still looks exactly like yours with no check mark under "shipped".

Did you receive a built email from Ford? My built email gave me an estimated date range for delivery to the dealer. You can also contact your dealership or Ford Chat for your railcar number if you want to follow it along obsessively like some of us have done! Hope this helps!

thanks for the info! I never recevied an email at any time throughout the process from Ford. I assume the dealer messed that up. I may try Ford chat to get some estimate.

 

[JerryC]

Not specifically on a Bronco, but I can definitely share that any "metal" valve stem caps need to be used carefully if at all because they can and do get seized onto the valve stems, sometimes in a short amount of time, requiring at minimum some tools/pliers to get them off with difficulty and being careful not to ruin the valve stem. I personally won't use them any more because of this as they can actually end up doing this at the worst time possible time. Definitely a safety concern and in the effort to keep them clean and uncontaminated you don't really want to use any type of lubricant or anti-seize on them either IMHO.

Neighbor had a garden hose with an aluminum end stick on his brass spigot. They had corroded together. It took a huge set of pliers and some effort to break them loose. I could see that happening on a valve stem and cap.

 

[thekingprawn]

Neighbor had a garden hose with an aluminum end stick on his brass spigot. They had corroded together. It took a huge set of pliers and some effort to break them loose. I could see that happening on a valve stem and cap.

Different metals expand and contract at different rates with changes in temperature. Bi-metal reactions are awesome.

 

[Little Wild Boar]

thanks for the info! I never recevied an email at any time throughout the process from Ford. I assume the dealer messed that up. I may try Ford chat to get some estimate.

Try the Canadian site.. it tells you

 

[Escape2Bronco]

Different metals expand and contract at different rates with changes in temperature. Bi-metal reactions are awesome.

This is actually an issue with galvanic corrosion and not due to differences in expansion. Aluminum is sacrificial to copper when it comes to Corrosion. This is why there is an issue with the valve stems since they are typically brass and the caps if they’re not plastic.

 

[Dtech]

Different metals do have different temperature reactions as well, but yes, galvanic corrosion is not your friend. I'm pretty sure that it what TKP meant when he mentioned "Bi-metal reactions are awesome". ?

 

[Meanderthal]

This is actually an issue with galvanic corrosion and not due to differences in expansion. Aluminum is sacrificial to copper when it comes to Corrosion. This is why there is an issue with the valve stems since they are typically brass and the caps if they’re not plastic.

A film of water proof grease on the connection and all should be fine. Not much, just enough to coat the parts. It is silicone based and clear so once you have applied it, you should never really know it is there unless you touch the stem.

Still, sort of a maintenance item. Probably best to avoid the issue all together unless you are dead set on getting some metal valve caps.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

A film of water proof grease on the connection and all should be fine. Not much, just enough to coat the parts. It is silicone based and clear so once you have applied it, you should never really know it is there unless you touch the stem.

Still, sort of a maintenance item. Probably best to avoid the issue all together unless you are dead set on getting some metal valve caps.

So not the place for “the bigger the glob, the better the job”?

 

[Little Wild Boar]

So not the place for “the bigger the glob, the better the job”?

If it's plastic inside the caps.. it will be fine

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