How Strong of a Receiver Shackle Mount?

[gatornek]

Yes, I'd have full faith in the Yankum aluminum tow point. These folks are experts in vehicle recovery and recovery equipment. I'm not so sure that these other tow points have even been tested to failure to produce the quoted WLL and WBS numbers.
The lighter weight is an advantage in storage and convenience.
One question which I don't have an answer for is: what is the yield stress on the car? That is the stress which would do permanent deformation to the unibody.
Or what about the strength of the hitch pin? Or the hitch itself?
The Moose Knuckle Mohawk 2.0 Receiver appears to be nearly equivalent to the Yankum Toe Point.
The Moose Knuckle has 10,000 pounds WLL rating on the receiver as well as their jowl split shackle.

And pricewise, one can get the shackle and the toe point for the price of the Yankum Tow Point alone.

That's a very Interesting option to the Yankum! Thanks for that.

But no 7/8ths! To me, thats the linchpin of the Yankum. I probably would've go theMoose Knuckle already if they had it. Moose Knuckle even has a military discount.

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[RushMan]

But no 7/8ths! To me, thats the linchpin of the Yankum. I probably would've go theMoose Knuckle already if they had it. Moose Knuckle even has a military discount.

Since I have no idea when my '24 BS BL will arrive, I've been saving links to all these accessories that I still want to buy. I've already got a couple hundred dollars worth of stuff in boxes in my living room for when the happy day arrives.

 

[Horse n Buggy]

But no 7/8ths! To me, thats the linchpin of the Yankum. I probably would've go theMoose Knuckle already if they had it. Moose Knuckle even has a military discount.

You might be hyper-focusing on the D-Ring size here. Regardless of your choice of 3/4" or 7/8" D-Ring receiver, your Curt hitch should be designed for a max size of 5/8ths hitch pin. The failure point is going to be the hitch connection to the chassis or the structure of the receiver long before the 5/8" pin shears and well before 7/8" or 1" D-Ring bolt shears

 

[gatornek]

You might be hyper-focusing on the D-Ring size here. Regardless of your choice of 3/4" or 7/8" D-Ring receiver, your Curt hitch should be designed for a max size of 5/8ths hitch pin. The failure point is going to be the hitch connection to the chassis or the structure of the receiver long before the 5/8" pin shears and well before 7/8" or 1" D-Ring bolt shears

Agreed. @RushMan already noted that the Yankum piece mentions this on their ad.

But a big fat 7/8ths D ring has an aesthetic appeal to it, also. ?

 

[Horse n Buggy]

Agreed. @RushMan already noted that the Yankum piece mentions this on their ad.

But a big fat 7/8ths D ring has an aesthetic appeal to it, also. ?

And that is fair, and the good news is having an oversized D-Ring isn't likely to negatively impact you unlike having an oversized kitchen netic rope. At least, I can't think of any reason it would negatively impact you.

And I don't know if I'm jumping the gun on your next thread but, Kinetic ropes are not going to save you without another vehicle pulling on them, and as I'm sure you have noticed, the BS doesn't have a great choice of winch options available. If you are planning on being able to get yourself out of things go sideways, have you looked into self recovery options like traction boards and winches?

 

[gatornek]

And that is fair, and the good news is having an oversized D-Ring isn't likely to negatively impact you unlike having an oversized kitchen netic rope. At least, I can't think of any reason it would negatively impact you.

And I don't know if I'm jumping the gun on your next thread but, Kinetic ropes are not going to save you without another vehicle pulling on them, and as I'm sure you have noticed, the BS doesn't have a great choice of winch options available. If you are planning on being able to get yourself out of things go sideways, have you looked into self recovery options like traction boards and winches?

The kinetic rope will probably be Rhino. Still looking.

Traction boards are ARB Tred GT (not the pro's)

There is a great thread floating around here on winching options. Not many good ones. If I ever decide to do any serious trails, I would deinitely add a hand crank winch to my recovery bag at the very least.

But if I absolutely wanted to do a mounted winch, the Harbor Freight rear hitch mounted winch, seems like a good option for us.

Like I noted on that thread, unless some fabricator takes the time to make something that would bolt on to the tow points in the front (which they won't), there are really no good front winching options.

 

[sajohnson]

That's very similar to the Curt Shackle: "Tested and rated for 13,000 lbs. straight-line pull "
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45832

That's the one we have. It's the same CURT D-ring shackle mount that Ford sells. You can find it on Amazon.

We were able to get Ford to give us one to make up for the lack of a rear tow eye mount with the factory tow package.

Mark makes a good point about weight. If I was spending my money I'd consider the aluminum one he bought. In our case it made sense to ask Ford for the one they sell.

As it is, we aren't doing any serious off-roading, and the BS BL is lightly loaded (we don't ever come anywhere near the GVWR) so a few extra pounds is not a big deal, but the CURT unit is a brick. We just wanted something to replace the tow eye that cannot be used (the piece of equipment that Ford says is critical and must be carried at all times). The CURT piece is obviously more than adequate for normal recovery use -- and most off-road recoveries:

CURT says, "Tested and rated for 13,000 lbs. straight-line pull." I doubt it would be the weakest link.

 

[NMhunter]

When I was young, my buddy tried to tow a car with his Corvair. He hooked it to the body, instead of the frame. It ripped the body piece out of his Corvair.

You'd pull the entire reciever hitch out of the back of your BS long before you'd break even the pin of your hitch.

Remember, even the Badlands hitch is only rated for 2200 pounds. Even the Harbor Freight D-Rings are rated 3 or 4 times that, and as mentioned above, usually there is a safety factor of 2 or 3.

Can someone explain why you'd want a D-Ring instead of just a hook? I find the hook lighter, smaller, and convenient.

As for suction from mud, the most important piece of gear is a HI-LIft jack. You jack up the wheels, put your chains on, and put rocks, trees, branches, logs, etc. under the wheel to keep the vehicle up out of the mud. I once stuck my pickup so deep in the mud that the mud was 1 foot up on the driver's door. Once we did what I described above, it was an easy pull for another truck to pull us out

 

[Horse n Buggy]

Can someone explain why you'd want a D-Ring instead of just a hook? I find the hook lighter, smaller, and convenient.

The most concise answer is simply that your rope / strap / chain cannot slip out of a D-Ring so it's one less thing to worry about during recovery

 

[gatornek]

Closing this out.

To answer @CableXJ question. $116.96

That's the cost of my peace of mind, as a novice off roader.

Ended up getting the Yankum piece. They are back ordered. I will update the thread when I get it in about a month or so. I didn't want to spend that much at first. But this thread really opened my eyes to the possibilities of aluminum over steel. I really had thought that steel was a no-brainer.

I appreciate everyone on here that threw in some input. It all helped.

 

[Mark S.]

For instance, I imagine Harbor Freight sells the sh!t out of these. Why? At that price point, they MUST be aluminum. If its such a risk, why are so many people buying these receiver shackle mounts? Why doesn't Harbor Freight sell an all steel one?

2 in. Hitch Mounted D-Ring Shackle (harborfreight.com)

Again, just playing Devil's Advocate here....

Weight is listed as +7 lbs, so it's not aluminum.

 

[sajohnson]

When I was young, my buddy tried to tow a car with his Corvair. He hooked it to the body, instead of the frame. It ripped the body piece out of his Corvair.

You'd pull the entire reciever hitch out of the back of your BS long before you'd break even the pin of your hitch.

Remember, even the Badlands hitch is only rated for 2200 pounds. Even the Harbor Freight D-Rings are rated 3 or 4 times that, and as mentioned above, usually there is a safety factor of 2 or 3.

Can someone explain why you'd want a D-Ring instead of just a hook? I find the hook lighter, smaller, and convenient.

As for suction from mud, the most important piece of gear is a HI-LIft jack. You jack up the wheels, put your chains on, and put rocks, trees, branches, logs, etc. under the wheel to keep the vehicle up out of the mud. I once stuck my pickup so deep in the mud that the mud was 1 foot up on the driver's door. Once we did what I described above, it was an easy pull for another truck to pull us out

Good point about the 'weakest link' issue. Of course the tow rating is demined in large part by the vehicle -- brakes; suspension; engine torque and cooling; drivetrain torque handling and cooling, etc. It would take a lot more than 2,200 pounds of force to damage the hitch or the unibody -- but with all but the cheapest "Squirrel Brand" shackle hitch receivers, the hitch and/or its attachment points should fail first.

It seems that some people become obsessed with shackle hitch receivers.

Some come in pretty colors:

Others are shiny and X-treme:

Some look like kids' toys. Bam-bam!:

Others are like modern art:

At the end of the day, the main concern is the strength of the hitch.

Another is having 2 offset holes for the hitch pin, 90 degrees apart -- unlike the units shown above.

PS: I just grabbed those photos off of Goggle Images. I know nothing about them. If anyone here owns one of them the fact that it's shown here is just a coincidence.

 

[gatornek]

Good point about the 'weakest link' issue. Of course the tow rating is demined in large part by the vehicle -- brakes; suspension; engine torque and cooling; drivetrain torque handling and cooling, etc. It would take a lot more than 2,200 pounds of force to damage the hitch or the unibody -- but with all but the cheapest "Squirrel Brand" shackle hitch receivers, the hitch and/or its attachment points should fail first.

It seems that some people become obsessed with shackle hitch receivers.

Some come in pretty colors:

Others are shiny and X-treme:

Some look like kids' toys. Bam-bam!:

Others are like modern art:

At the end of the day, the main concern is the strength of the hitch.

Another is having 2 offset holes for the hitch pin, 90 degrees apart.

PS: I just grabbed those photos off of Goggle Images. I know nothing about them. If anyone here owns one of them the fact that it's shown here is just a coincidence.

Fair analysis.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I am using the Warn Shackle Bracket that came in an accessory kit I bought for use with my 12K winch I had on my SuperDuty. I believe it may be this one: WARN 29312

Based on weight, I would say mine is steel, but when I get time I will see if a magnet sticks to it. Warn does not specify a weight rating for this on their site.

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