Towing capacity for Base model without factory install towing package?

[Bucko]

I went from years camping in a VW Westy, tents, a hybrid, and now a class C RV. I won't worry anymore about towing. If I were to tow with the BS, it would be under the 1500lb max rate. The 1.5 that my Outer Banks has is plenty peppy and has guts, but I checked the trans today and found no separate transmission cooler, but the radiator does appear to be robust, so the trans lines connected appear to be sufficient to cool the transmission fluid, even under towing. Most 1.5's have an oil capacity of 6.6 quarts, which will help keep the oil at bay.

But I personally would just not push it with towing a camper. It will take discipline from a driver to keep the total weight to the max limits recommended. Consider the tent option that mounts off the roof rack. However, no bathroom, no other creature comforts.

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[sajohnson]

Still looking and at my age ... I'd definitely prefer having a bathroom ... and a cassette toilet is fine with me.

They are a whole lot better than nothing!

Cassettes have some disadvantages, but one feature that is both a plus and a minus is that it can be emptied into a toilet (or dump station).

At least you have that bathroom option, because dump stations are not always available, and most now charge a fee -- up to $20 or more in some cases.

 

[sajohnson]

For those that do get trailers, my advice is to take the whole setup to a certified scale and have things weighed so you know where you're actually at. Have a full tank of fuel in the BS as well. Cheers!

Good advice!

 

[sajohnson]

I went from years camping in a VW Westy, tents, a hybrid, and now a class C RV. I won't worry anymore about towing. If I were to tow with the BS, it would be under the 1500lb max rate. The 1.5 that my Outer Banks has is plenty peppy and has guts, but I checked the trans today and found no separate transmission cooler, but the radiator does appear to be robust, so the trans lines connected appear to be sufficient to cool the transmission fluid, even under towing. Most 1.5's have an oil capacity of 6.6 quarts, which will help keep the oil at bay.

But I personally would just not push it with towing a camper. It will take discipline from a driver to keep the total weight to the max limits recommended. Consider the tent option that mounts off the roof rack. However, no bathroom, no other creature comforts.

I hear what you're saying. No doubt that not towing is better than towing -- less wear and tear on the tow vehicle.

When we were looking at RVs and campers about 12 years ago, my wife and I weighed all the pros and cons of: trailers/campers; 5th wheels; and Class A/B/C RVs. Towing is attractive, esp if one already has a good tow vehicle. Then you aren't spending money on a drive train. Also, you can disconnect at your destination and have the tow vehicle to run around in.

OTOH, towing has drawbacks -- not the least of which is maneuverability. We sometimes explore back roads in our RV. It's not common, but occasionally there is no place to turn around. In the RV, worst case we just have to back up. With a trailer, sure, it can be done but it's more of a hassle. Also, being able to fit in a small camp site or single parking space (if there is room for the rear overhang) is nice.

Anyway, in this case the OP already has his BS. Granted, it's not the ideal tow vehicle, but as someone in this thread mentioned, since the OP will be mostly traveling solo, weight is less of a concern. In the theoretical example posted above, the weight of the hitch brought the BS cargo capacity down to 1,100 pounds. A max tongue weight of 300 lbs. (15% of 2,000 lbs.) leaves 800 lbs. for the OP himself, and cargo. Not bad.

Still, as has been pointed out, it might be somewhat difficult to find a trailer that's *actually* <2,000 lbs., ready to roll. If he can do that he should be good to go.

I do agree that towing can be hard on vehicles, but if he's sticking to the Ford ratings it should be OK. One plus in his case is that he said he plans to stay mostly in Texas. There are hills of course (the "Hill Country") but it's not like climbing the grades in the Rockies, Sierras, or even Appalachian mountains. I know that with our Sprinter-based RV, the coolant and ATF temps really increase when climbing steep grades but (AFAIK) it's designed to handle that without damage. IDK about the BS, but the V6 diesel in the Sprinter will decrease power output if (say) the coolant temp reaches 250*F (it never gets near that -- about 220* max.).

It would be interesting to hear from BS owners who tow.

 

[sajohnson]

*Silly question but what you say makes 100% sense and also very good advice ... but if you already have the entire setup which means you already purchased it ... so what if it's way over when you have it weighed?... or in my case trying to get/order/purchase a trailer now with an advertised weight of 1200-1300 and knowing my max towing capacity is 2000 lbs? What can I do if my almost totally empty trailer is much heavier than they advertised it would be?

That sounds like a *good* question to me. Apparently the mfrs -- knowing that most people are concerned about the GCWR -- lie, I mean, 'embellish', when it comes to weight.

You might consider checking the RV forums. My guess is that many people are wondering the same thing. There are bound to be owners of almost any given trailer you are considering who can tell you what the ACTUAL weight is.

Another possible option -- but more of a hassle -- would be to see if the dealer will let you take it to a scale and weigh it. I'd only consider that if a) you really, really like the trailer, and b) can't get the actual weight online. Of course the dealer might not go for that plan...

Another option would be to get written confirmation -- signed by the *owner* of the dealership -- that the weight is not over X lbs., and that if it turns out to be more than that, you have the right to return it for a full refund. They should be willing to do that. After all, they trust the mfr, right?

Side note -- 1,200 to 1,300 lbs. is very light. I'm not familiar with what's currently available, but at some point lighter weight may = more flimsy construction. RVs and campers are almost all poorly constructed to begin with. As a friend of ours who was the sales manager at a local Winnebago dealership says, "Flash and trash!" I could be way off base, but my guess is that unless you are thinking about a tiny teardrop trailer, you are going to end up closer to 2,000 lbs. And that's OK because you have a lot of cargo capacity in the BS. Granted, it's less than ideal to transfer stuff back and forth, and hopefully you won't have to, but you can put some heavier stuff in the BS.

 

[RodNSA]

That sounds like a *good* question to me. Apparently the mfrs -- knowing that most people are concerned about the GCWR -- lie, I mean, 'embellish', when it comes to weight.

You might consider checking the RV forums. My guess is that many people are wondering the same thing. There are bound to be owners of almost any given trailer you are considering who can tell you what the ACTUAL weight is.

Another possible option -- but more of a hassle -- would be to see if the dealer will let you take it to a scale and weigh it. I'd only consider that if a) you really, really like the trailer, and b) can't get the actual weight online. Of course the dealer might not go for that plan...

Another option would be to get written confirmation -- signed by the *owner* of the dealership -- that the weight is not over X lbs., and that if it turns out to be more than that, you have the right to return it for a full refund. They should be willing to do that. After all, they trust the mfr, right?

Side note -- 1,200 to 1,300 lbs. is very light. I'm not familiar with what's currently available, but at some point lighter weight may = more flimsy construction. RVs and campers are almost all poorly constructed to begin with. As a friend of ours who was the sales manager at a local Winnebago dealership says, "Flash and trash!" I could be way off base, but my guess is that unless you are thinking about a tiny teardrop trailer, you are going to end up closer to 2,000 lbs. And that's OK because you have a lot of cargo capacity in the BS. Granted, it's less than ideal to transfer stuff back and forth, and hopefully you won't have to, but you can put some heavier stuff in the BS.

*I'm looking at a few ... two are from ProLite (a Canadian manufacturer which seems to have a good reputation) and have been selling quite a few in the US lately ... either the Plus S at 1390 lbs or the Mini at 1150. The Grand Ascape ST by Aliner is a cool option but weighs in with a dry weight of 1700 but they say it has a GVWR is 2500 which puts it over my 2000 lbs threshold ... such is life. For fun, I did look at the Meercat which is an interesting option ... but not an option since it's WEIRD AS HELL and makes me feel like I'm back in a pseudo hippie van in the late 60s/early 70s. Oh, as far as actual weight of a potential RV ... isn't the ACCURATE weight reflected by referencing the VIN#??? OK ... it's almost midnight so time to watch a little TV.

 

[sajohnson]

*I'm looking at a few ... two are from ProLite (a Canadian manufacturer which seems to have a good reputation) and have been selling quite a few in the US lately ... either the Plus S at 1390 lbs or the Mini at 1150. The Grand Ascape ST by Aliner is a cool option but weighs in with a dry weight of 1700 but they say it has a GVWR is 2500 which puts it over my 2000 lbs threshold ... such is life. For fun, I did look at the Meercat which is an interesting option ... but not an option since it's WEIRD AS HELL and makes me feel like I'm back in a pseudo hippie van in the late 60s/early 70s. Oh, as far as actual weight of a potential RV ... isn't the ACCURATE weight reflected by referencing the VIN#??? OK ... it's almost midnight so time to watch a little TV.

A few thoughts:

1) The GVWR is the maximum *loaded* weight of a trailer, car, truck, or RV. So if that trailer actually weighs 1,700 lbs. it would be fine. You could put a couple hundred pounds of cargo in it and it would weigh 1,900. If you have additional stuff it can go in the BS, as long as you do not exceed the GCWR (vehicle + trailer). If we were looking at trailers, I would focus on the empty weight, and consider campers up to close to the limit. It's nice to have some buffer, but you can -- and probably should -- put most heavy cargo in the BS anyway.

2) Generally speaking, we found that most Canadian mfrs made higher quality RVs, with prices to match. One drawback that someone here mentioned might be trying to get service.

In case you haven't heard, most new campers and RVs often have dozens of problems, large and small -- so access to warranty service is important. Unfortunately, most dealers have a l-o-n-g waiting list. The common advice is to buy used (the original owner will usually have had the problems corrected) or, if buying new, have the RV inspected top to bottom by a competent RV tech. Do not take delivery until all issues are addressed. Once you sign you have no leverage and it's usually impossible to get problems fixed.

3) From what people on this thread are saying, the claimed weight of many trailers is much lower than the actual weight. I'm not sure if you can get the true weight by using the VIN -- I've never tried. Ours could be overweight for all I know, but we don't overload it. One potential issue is if there are dealer installed options that add weight. I'm sure there are people on iRV2 and similar forums that would be familiar with how to get the accurate weight -- aside from using a scale.

4) Hippie vans are cool!

 

[Mark S.]

Even if you max out the tow capacity at 2,000 lbs and drop the heaviest safe amount onto the hitch at 15%, your available payload will be 1,100 - 300 = 800 lbs.

All good except for the above. The maximum tongue weight for the Bronco Sport is 200 lbs.

 

[wireman]

I found this. It looks like the Badlands has the trans cooler and upgraded cooling.

It's not part of the tow package.

Like sajonhson say's, don't trust any dealer to give you the correct info about the weight of the trailer or what you can tow with your BS. There are numerous stories on RV forums about salesmen lying just to make a sale. A scale is the only way to get a true weight. You can also buy a mechanical sway control to mount to the A frame of your trailer.

Depending on the tongue weight of your trailer and how you load the vehicle the front end of the vehicle could sit high. An option would be to install air bags in the rear coil springs to level out as much as possible. They DON'T INCREASE CAPACITY.

I've towed with class C and class A rv's and also towed travel trailers for 30+ years. Terrain, wind, and a multitude of other factors will make your towing experience enjoyable or hell.

If you're a novice at towing, go slow with the learning process.

 

[RodNSA]

I found this. It looks like the Badlands has the trans cooler and upgraded cooling.

It's not part of the tow package.

Like sajonhson say's, don't trust any dealer to give you the correct info about the weight of the trailer or what you can tow with your BS. There are numerous stories on RV forums about salesmen lying just to make a sale. A scale is the only way to get a true weight. You can also buy a mechanical sway control to mount to the A frame of your trailer.

Depending on the tongue weight of your trailer and how you load the vehicle the front end of the vehicle could sit high. An option would be to install air bags in the rear coil springs to level out as much as possible. They DON'T INCREASE CAPACITY.

I've towed with class C and class A rv's and also towed travel trailers for 30+ years. Terrain, wind, and a multitude of other factors will make your towing experience enjoyable or hell.

If you're a novice at towing, go slow with the learning process.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Mark S.]

I found this. It looks like the Badlands has the trans cooler and upgraded cooling.

It's not part of the tow package.

I'm pretty sure all Bronco Sport trim levels have a transmission cooler. Newer vehicles integrate the transmission cooler with the primary heat exchanger (radiator). There are typically a pair of hydraulic lines running from the transmission to the heat exchanger. The trans fluid runs through these lines and is routed through the heat exchanger for cooling. I can see the lines connected to the left side near the bottom of the heat exchanger on my Badlands.

 

[RodNSA]

A few thoughts:

1) The GVWR is the maximum *loaded* weight of a trailer, car, truck, or RV. So if that trailer actually weighs 1,700 lbs. it would be fine. You could put a couple hundred pounds of cargo in it and it would weigh 1,900. If you have additional stuff it can go in the BS, as long as you do not exceed the GCWR (vehicle + trailer). If we were looking at trailers, I would focus on the empty weight, and consider campers up to close to the limit. It's nice to have some buffer, but you can -- and probably should -- put most heavy cargo in the BS anyway.

2) Generally speaking, we found that most Canadian mfrs made higher quality RVs, with prices to match. One drawback that someone here mentioned might be trying to get service.

In case you haven't heard, most new campers and RVs often have dozens of problems, large and small -- so access to warranty service is important. Unfortunately, most dealers have a l-o-n-g waiting list. The common advice is to buy used (the original owner will usually have had the problems corrected) or, if buying new, have the RV inspected top to bottom by a competent RV tech. Do not take delivery until all issues are addressed. Once you sign you have no leverage and it's usually impossible to get problems fixed.

3) From what people on this thread are saying, the claimed weight of many trailers is much lower than the actual weight. I'm not sure if you can get the true weight by using the VIN -- I've never tried. Ours could be overweight for all I know, but we don't overload it. One potential issue is if there are dealer installed options that add weight. I'm sure there are people on iRV2 and similar forums that would be familiar with how to get the accurate weight -- aside from using a scale.

4) Hippie vans are cool!

Lots of things from the 70s (my high school years) were/are cool?.

 

[sajohnson]

All good except for the above. The maximum tongue weight for the Bronco Sport is 200 lbs.

Good catch.

Even 200 lbs. is OK. The usual recommendation is 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue, so the 200 lb. capacity is good for up to a 2,000 lb. trailer.

 

[sajohnson]

Lots of things from the 70s (my high school years) were/are cool?.

I agree (class of '79). In fact, one might say almost *everything* was better/cooler in the 1970s!

I just want to repost this, in the off-chance you aren't aware:

"...most new campers and RVs often have dozens of problems, large and small -- so access to warranty service is important. Unfortunately, most dealers have a l-o-n-g waiting list for service. The common advice is to buy used (the original owner will usually have had the problems corrected) or, if buying new, have the RV inspected top to bottom by a competent RV tech. Do not take delivery until all issues are addressed. Once you sign you have no leverage and it's usually impossible to get problems fixed."

I'm most familiar with the View/Navion. There are numerous stories of owners taking their rig back to Forest City, Iowa, (Winnebago HQ) to have problems corrected at the factory because their local dealer(s) can't or won't work on it. These people are driving 1,000-1,500 miles one-way in some cases just to get issues addressed -- defects that should have be caught by QA before the RV left the factory. Other RV mfrs are the same or worse.

In short, buying a camper or RV is not like buying a new car. QA is almost non-existent.

Here's a great video by a lemon law attorney in Michigan, titled "Don't Buy an RV":




The title is a little hyperbolic. A more accurate title might be, "Be extremely careful when buying an RV."

 

[sajohnson]

I found this. It looks like the Badlands has the trans cooler and upgraded cooling.

It's not part of the tow package.

Like sajonhson say's, don't trust any dealer to give you the correct info about the weight of the trailer or what you can tow with your BS. There are numerous stories on RV forums about salesmen lying just to make a sale. A scale is the only way to get a true weight. You can also buy a mechanical sway control to mount to the A frame of your trailer.

Depending on the tongue weight of your trailer and how you load the vehicle the front end of the vehicle could sit high. An option would be to install air bags in the rear coil springs to level out as much as possible. They DON'T INCREASE CAPACITY.

I've towed with class C and class A rv's and also towed travel trailers for 30+ years. Terrain, wind, and a multitude of other factors will make your towing experience enjoyable or hell.

If you're a novice at towing, go slow with the learning process.

This Ford PDF seems to confirm that the BS BL has a 2nd (auxiliary) ATF cooler:
https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/product/2022/bronco-sport/2022-Bronco-Sport-Tech-Specs.pdf

See the bottom of page 1 -- "Transmission".

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