Towing capacity for Base model without factory install towing package?

[Bucko]

You have a double quote there...I only said this:

What I don't get or understand is why the base model on the Ford site does not state this about sway software and transmission cooler requirements. My 2023 outer banks model is rated for 2000 mile capacity, and I too do not have the factory trailer package.

I'm off to the Ford webste now to see if these two items are indeed required to meet the advertised maximum tow rated weight.

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[RodNSA]

You have a double quote there...I only said this:

What I don't get or understand is why the base model on the Ford site does not state this about sway software and transmission cooler requirements. My 2023 outer banks model is rated for 2000 mile capacity, and I too do not have the factory trailer package.

I'm off to the Ford webste now to see if these two items are indeed required to meet the advertised maximum tow rated weight.

Oops ... my mistake.

 

[67L48]

In many vehicles, the Tow Package will add transmission coolers, sometimes oil coolers, sometimes a bigger radiator, and other features. For this reason, I almost always opt for the Tow Package. The Bronco Sport is not one of these vehicles, however. For the BS, there are no additional cooling or engine/transmission protection features. Too bad.

I'm a stickler for weights and measures. I think it's an unnecessary risk to tow overloaded.

With that said, I think claims of liability and voided warranties are alarmist, at best, and pure fiction, at worst. As rigid as I am about ratings, in 20 years of searching, I've not come across a single verifiable case where a recreational driver (commercial vehicles don't count) owned legal liability for being overweight. I've never seen a warranty voided for being overweight. Please post links if you have examples -- I'm not saying it's never happened ... I'm saying I've never seen a case (just stories about my brother's college roommate's cousin's ex-girlfriend's dad who blah, blah, blah).

I don't see a structural reason for the 1,500 vs 2,000 lbs rating. So, I'd feel perfectly comfortable using that higher rating with a properly installed Class II receiver. It won't affect frame, hubs, axles, stopping ability, and so on.

So, I'd use that 2,000 lb rating along with the vehicle's payload rating on the door jamb sticker as the jump-off points for what you can safely tow.

 

[RodNSA]

In many vehicles, the Tow Package will add transmission coolers, sometimes oil coolers, sometimes a bigger radiator, and other features. For this reason, I almost always opt for the Tow Package. The Bronco Sport is not one of these vehicles, however. For the BS, there are no additional cooling or engine/transmission protection features. Too bad.

I'm a stickler for weights and measures. I think it's an unnecessary risk to tow overloaded.

With that said, I think claims of liability and voided warranties are alarmist, at best, and pure fiction, at worst. As rigid as I am about ratings, in 20 years of searching, I've not come across a single verifiable case where a recreational driver (commercial vehicles don't count) owned legal liability for being overweight. I've never seen a warranty voided for being overweight. Please post links if you have examples -- I'm not saying it's never happened ... I'm saying I've never seen a case (just stories about my brother's college roommate's cousin's ex-girlfriend's dad who blah, blah, blah).

I don't see a structural reason for the 1,500 vs 2,000 lbs rating. So, I'd feel perfectly comfortable using that higher rating with a properly installed Class II receiver. It won't affect frame, hubs, axles, stopping ability, and so on.
***Pretty much what I was thinking. It does seem that Ford will do everything to install their parts for me BUT they say there isn't a way to give sway protection because of lack of software compatibility??? So, assuming they give me whatever they can for class ii tow package minus the sway protection ... after that, should I take it somewhere else for them to install a sway bar? Is there ANYTHING else ... electric brakes, or additional cooling options for aftermarket? ... OR simply let Ford handle it and

go with the 2000 lb rating for looking at RVs??? I've found several in the 1200-1500 that I really like and 1 or 2 in the 1000-1200 that could work. Here are the pics I took from the door jamb ... with that it mind, what sort of RV weight should I be looking at ... assuming I'm going with the 2000 instead of the 1500???

So, I'd use that 2,000 lb rating along with the vehicle's payload rating on the door jamb sticker as the jump-off points for what you can safely tow.

 

[67L48]

I probably wouldn't worry too much about whatever computerized sway control Ford implemented. Proper loading of the trailer and safe driving habits/mechanics will be enough to safely tow a trailer. You're not going to be in a ditch because you towed a 2,000 lb teardrop trailer without electronic sway control.

1,149 lbs is your payload, which reflects the BS's GVWR less the GVW the day it rolled off the line at the Ford factory. When you mount the Class II hitch, you'll eat into the payload, of course. Let's assume the hitch weighs 49 lbs, for easy math. So, you sit at ~1,100 lbs of available payload ... which is still quite a lot.

Because it's just you traveling and camping, payload probably won't come into play as much. For most folks, camping involves a couple, at least, and often includes a larger family with children and pets. People regularly underestimate how quickly the weight piles up. With just a single person, it's less of a concern. That's why, for most people, they're way over payload (GVWR) before they exceed tow rating. Your situation is likely reversed.

Even if you max out the tow capacity at 2,000 lbs and drop the heaviest safe amount onto the hitch at 15%, your available payload will be 1,100 - 300 = 800 lbs.

So, you have 800 lbs for yourself, gear, the hitch, any accessories added, roof rack stuff, duffel bags, and anything else in or on the vehicle. Should be pretty easy with just a single person.

I would shop for trailers that had GVWRs of 2,000 lbs or less. As with the Bushwhacker brand, a stout axle can give a pretty large GVWR. In those cases, I'd probably look more toward the dry weight (yes, I still think it's mostly a useless number) as directional and insist on at least 750 lbs of cushion. That will get eaten up incredibly fast with factory options, dealer options, and all the gear. Even things like a tank of propane, awnings, and the 12V battery are often not included in dry weight and that stuff is heavy. It adds up really fast. #beatingadeadhorse

Here's an old post that I found from a forum about fiberglass trailers (e.g., Scamp):

I bought a 13' Scamp last year. The salesman told me my 2012 Honda CRV, with a towing capacity of 1,500 lbs, would have no problem towing the Scamp and that with an air conditioner it weighted 1,100 lbs. The Certificate of Origin for the Vehicle has the shipping weight of 1,000. lbs.

After reading some of the actual weights listed on this forum I decided to have my trailer weighted and I'm devastated. Empty it weights 1,866 lbs. I can't even tow it empty!!! I love my trailer but cannot afford to buy a new car. I thought I did all the research but feel like I was deceived.

That being said, I was told an EZ Lift would help distribute the weight. But I read that 13' or shorter trailers are not supposed to use them.

Can anyone out there help me.

Senior Citizen in Distress!!

You don't want to be that guy.

 

[sajohnson]

I agree with those who have pointed out that your base model BS -- with the OE Ford hitch (not aftermarket) -- will be identical to the OB and BB mechanically. Same drivetrain; radiator and ATF cooling; suspension, and brakes.

The only difference is the lack of sway control. That's a nice feature to have, but as others have noted, not necessary. At 2,000 pounds, a properly loaded trailer should be no problem.

I doubt many of the smaller trailers/campers have brakes (even optional) but they never hurt. Again, not necessary, but even better than sway control.

Good luck finding something that works for you!

 

[RodNSA]

I agree with those who have pointed out that your base model BS -- with the OE Ford hitch (not aftermarket) -- will be identical to the OB and BB mechanically. Same drivetrain; radiator and ATF cooling; suspension, and brakes.

The only difference is the lack of sway control. That's a nice feature to have, but as others have noted, not necessary. At 2,000 pounds, a properly loaded trailer should be no problem.

I doubt many of the smaller trailers/campers have brakes (even optional) but they never hurt. Again, not necessary, but even better than sway control.

Good luck finding something that works for you!

THANKS ... gonna bite the bullet real soon. Was great to get info from people who have experience.

 

[RodNSA]

I probably wouldn't worry too much about whatever computerized sway control Ford implemented. Proper loading of the trailer and safe driving habits/mechanics will be enough to safely tow a trailer. You're not going to be in a ditch because you towed a 2,000 lb teardrop trailer without electronic sway control.

1,149 lbs is your payload, which reflects the BS's GVWR less the GVW the day it rolled off the line at the Ford factory. When you mount the Class II hitch, you'll eat into the payload, of course. Let's assume the hitch weighs 49 lbs, for easy math. So, you sit at ~1,100 lbs of available payload ... which is still quite a lot.

Because it's just you traveling and camping, payload probably won't come into play as much. For most folks, camping involves a couple, at least, and often includes a larger family with children and pets. People regularly underestimate how quickly the weight piles up. With just a single person, it's less of a concern. That's why, for most people, they're way over payload (GVWR) before they exceed tow rating. Your situation is likely reversed.

Even if you max out the tow capacity at 2,000 lbs and drop the heaviest safe amount onto the hitch at 15%, your available payload will be 1,100 - 300 = 800 lbs.

So, you have 800 lbs for yourself, gear, the hitch, any accessories added, roof rack stuff, duffel bags, and anything else in or on the vehicle. Should be pretty easy with just a single person.

I would shop for trailers that had GVWRs of 2,000 lbs or less. As with the Bushwhacker brand, a stout axle can give a pretty large GVWR. In those cases, I'd probably look more toward the dry weight (yes, I still think it's mostly a useless number) as directional and insist on at least 750 lbs of cushion. That will get eaten up incredibly fast with factory options, dealer options, and all the gear. Even things like a tank of propane, awnings, and the 12V battery are often not included in dry weight and that stuff is heavy. It adds up really fast. #beatingadeadhorse

Here's an old post that I found from a forum about fiberglass trailers (e.g., Scamp):


You don't want to be that guy.

Wow, the SCAMP is supposed to be so light weight. Bad story... sad. I'm looking at gross weight now but also feel fairly comfortable that if I find something really great in the 1200-1300 MAX on dry weight that I really should be ok with that much of a buffer. On the plus side ... if there isn't a bathroom then no tanks equals less weight. Oh ... I did see online that you should drain your tanks, including fresh water so the weight will be down. Thanks again.

 

[sajohnson]

THANKS ... gonna bite the bullet real soon. Was great to get info from people who have experience.

You're welcome!

To be clear, my towing experience is limited. We do have a small trailer, but for camping we have an RV (a View).

Most of what I know about towing came/comes from RV/camper forums. You can find a ton of info on them. There are a bunch of them, but offhand, iRV2 comes to mind.

It's good to get the "tow vehicle" info here, and of course there are members who have towing experience as well. Then combine that with the a couple camper forums.

 

[sajohnson]

Wow, the SCAMP is supposed to be so light weight. Bad story... sad. I'm looking at gross weight now but also feel fairly comfortable that if I find something really great in the 1200-1300 MAX on dry weight that I really should be ok with that much of a buffer. On the plus side ... if there isn't a bathroom then no tanks equals less weight. Oh ... I did see online that you should drain your tanks, including fresh water so the weight will be down. Thanks again.

That's the kind of info RV/camper forums are good for -- fresh/grey/black tanks; how much water to carry, where to dump the tanks; which items are 'must-haves' and what you can leave behind; how to find campgrounds, overnight parking, and/or boondocking sites; info about running an A/C unit on a generator, on and on.

Not that there aren't people here who know that stuff, just that RV forums are another good source of info.

PS: IMHO, one main reason to travel in an RV or with a camper is to have your own kitchen and bathroom. I hope you are able to get that within your weight limit. It'll probably be a "cassette" type toilet, but that's better than nothing.

 

[RodNSA]

That's the kind of info RV/camper forums are good for -- fresh/grey/black tanks; how much water to carry, where to dump the tanks; which items are 'must-haves' and what you can leave behind; how to find campgrounds, overnight parking, and/or boondocking sites; info about running an A/C unit on a generator, on and on.

Not that there aren't people here who know that stuff, just that RV forums are another good source of info.

PS: IMHO, one main reason to travel in an RV or with a camper is to have your own kitchen and bathroom. I hope you are able to get that within your weight limit. It'll probably be a "cassette" type toilet, but that's better than nothing.

Still looking and at my age ... I'd definitely prefer having a bathroom ... and a cassette toilet is fine with me.

 

[sajohnson]

THANKS ... gonna bite the bullet real soon. Was great to get info from people who have experience.

Just to add to what I wrote above -- IF there are trailers in your weight range with available brakes, in my admittedly low experience opinion, they are worth considering.

Anything being towed will sometimes push the tow vehicle when traveling downhill. That can produce sway/side-to-side oscillation. Sway control (I assume) can help reduce that. Without sway control you should be fine with a properly loaded trailer, but properly operating brakes eliminate that 'push'.

 

[cprcubed]

For those that do get trailers, my advice is to take the whole setup to a certified scale and have things weighed so you know where you're actually at. Have a full tank of fuel in the BS as well. Cheers!

 

[67L48]

That's the kind of info RV/camper forums are good for [...] Not that there aren't people here who know that stuff, just that RV forums are another good source of info. [...]

Exactly this. As you move from "what your BS can tow" to "what are some good trailer options," I'd ditch this forum in favor of the appropriate RV forum.

Different tools for different jobs.

Don't go to car forums to learn about RVs ... don't go to RV forums to learn about cars ... and so on.

 

[RodNSA]

For those that do get trailers, my advice is to take the whole setup to a certified scale and have things weighed so you know where you're actually at. Have a full tank of fuel in the BS as well. Cheers!

*Silly question but what you say makes 100% sense and also very good advice ... but if you already have the entire setup which means you already purchased it ... so what if it's way over when you have it weighed?... or in my case trying to get/order/purchase a trailer now with an advertised weight of 1200-1300 and knowing my max towing capacity is 2000 lbs? What can I do if my almost totally empty trailer is much heavier than they advertised it would be?

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