Towing capacity for Base model without factory install towing package?

[RodNSA]

Ok ... help me out. I didn't order my BS Base model with towing since it was purchased off a lot as is without towing. I'm getting ready to add towing and thought that would give me a 2000 pound (gross weight) towing capacity ... BUT everything I read now, after the fact seems to indicate that regardless of even if the Ford Dealership does the aftermarket towing package that my gross towing capacity will always go off my VIN. IS THIS ACCURATE??? So, that means I would have to stay at 1500 or less ....right? So when looking at a potential camper that would mean it's dry weight probably needs to be in more like 1200-1300 max ... allowing for tanks, battery, water, etc ... even if packing light with minimal essentials? Thanks for the help.

Sponsored

 

[Bucko]

I would agree with your safe estimates using your VIN, as Bronco Sport packages are going to be different from others. From the base model all the way up to the Bronco Sport Heritage, there are differences in engine (1.5 verses the 2.0) and suspensions.

You could be disappointed if you are relying on the BS to pull a camper. It will have to be a featherweight style camper, and yes, it will have to include with total weight the "bring along" items as well. It adds up quickly.

The top of the line bandlands and Heritage Limited gives you a maximum trailer weight of 2200 pounds, and the base is advertised at max trailer weight of 2000 pounds.

 

[RSH]

This is from my owners manual, you should check your own manual.

Towing - Recommended Towing Weights
RECOMMENDED TOWING WEIGHTS

WARNING: Towing trailers beyond the maximum recommended gross trailer weight exceeds the limit of your vehicle and could result in engine damage, transmission damage, structural damage, loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover and personal injury.

Note: Do not exceed the trailer weight for your vehicle configuration listed in the following chart.
Note: Do not exceed the trailer frontal area for your vehicle configuration listed in the following chart.
Note: Your vehicle could have reduced performance when operating at high altitudes, and when heavily loaded or towing a trailer. When driving at elevation, to match driving performance as perceived at sea level, reduce gross vehicle weight and gross combination weight by 2% per 1000 ft (300 m) of elevation.
Note: Certain states require electric trailer brakes for trailers over a specified weight. Be sure to check state regulations for this specified weight. The maximum trailer weights listed may be limited to this specified weight, as the vehicle’s electrical system may not include the wiring connector needed to activate electric trailer brakes.
Your vehicle may tow a trailer provided the maximum trailer weight is less than or equal to the maximum trailer weight listed for your vehicle configuration on the following chart.

Powertrain	Maximum Gross Combined Weight Ratio	Maximum Trailer Weight	Maximum Trailer Frontal Area
1.5L EcoBoost	5860 lb (2,658 kg)	2000 lb (907 kg)	20 ft² (1.86 m²)
2.0L EcoBoost	6260 lb (2,839 kg)	2200 lb (997 kg)	20 ft² (1.86 m²)

Calculated with SAE J2807 method.
2021 Bronco Sport Owner's Manual

 

[Mark S.]

This is from my owners manual, you should check your own manual.

Also, don't forget the gross vehicle weight rating gross combined weight rating. This is the weight of the fully loaded vehicle AND trailer. You don't want to exceed the towing capacity OR the GVWR GCWR.

 

[RodNSA]

This is from my owners manual, you should check your own manual.

Towing - Recommended Towing Weights
RECOMMENDED TOWING WEIGHTS

WARNING: Towing trailers beyond the maximum recommended gross trailer weight exceeds the limit of your vehicle and could result in engine damage, transmission damage, structural damage, loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover and personal injury.

Note: Do not exceed the trailer weight for your vehicle configuration listed in the following chart.
Note: Do not exceed the trailer frontal area for your vehicle configuration listed in the following chart.
Note: Your vehicle could have reduced performance when operating at high altitudes, and when heavily loaded or towing a trailer. When driving at elevation, to match driving performance as perceived at sea level, reduce gross vehicle weight and gross combination weight by 2% per 1000 ft (300 m) of elevation.
Note: Certain states require electric trailer brakes for trailers over a specified weight. Be sure to check state regulations for this specified weight. The maximum trailer weights listed may be limited to this specified weight, as the vehicle’s electrical system may not include the wiring connector needed to activate electric trailer brakes.
Your vehicle may tow a trailer provided the maximum trailer weight is less than or equal to the maximum trailer weight listed for your vehicle configuration on the following chart.

Powertrain	Maximum Gross Combined Weight Ratio	Maximum Trailer Weight	Maximum Trailer Frontal Area
1.5L EcoBoost	5860 lb (2,658 kg)	2000 lb (907 kg)	20 ft² (1.86 m²)
2.0L EcoBoost	6260 lb (2,839 kg)	2200 lb (997 kg)	20 ft² (1.86 m²)

Calculated with SAE J2807 method.
2021 Bronco Sport Owner's Manual

This is great, thanks ... BUT if I followed this then I would be able to use maximum trailer weight of 2000 pounds ... that would be great. However, the Ford dealership that was going to do the parts and install of the towing package says 1500 lbs for my VIN since it did not have original factory towing when shipped. What is your understanding?

 

[RSH]

This is great, thanks ... BUT if I followed this then I would be able to use maximum trailer weight of 2000 pounds ... that would be great. However, the Ford dealership that was going to do the parts and install of the towing package says 1500 lbs for my VIN since it did not have original factory towing when shipped. What is your understanding?

I would think that if you have a class II tow hitch and the proper wiring installed you should be able to tow the rated 2000 lbs. There are also other companies that offer tow hitches for the BS, Curtis manufacturing and Uhaul are examples. Some people on the board have installed them.

 

[Bucko]

You do plan to use the Ford hitch that they sell for the BS, right? Then the owners manual applies. If not planning to use a genuine Ford accessory hitch, then I can see why the dealer made the comment. They can't speak for any other hitch made that was not tested by Ford. Not that another would be inferior, its just that they would not know.
I think the price for the Ford hitch is a good one, especially if you use the free points against it.

 

[Mark S.]

This is great, thanks ... BUT if I followed this then I would be able to use maximum trailer weight of 2000 pounds ... that would be great. However, the Ford dealership that was going to do the parts and install of the towing package says 1500 lbs for my VIN since it did not have original factory towing when shipped. What is your understanding?

Is your Sport a base model? If so, the towing package was not available for yours.

I believe what your dealership is telling you is accurate. Without the factory tow package you don't get sway control (part of the stability control system), which is why the base model is limited to 1500 lbs towing capacity. You can read more about towing options with the Bronco Sport at this link.

This video explains the sway control system.

 

[Txsurfer13]

This is great, thanks ... BUT if I followed this then I would be able to use maximum trailer weight of 2000 pounds ... that would be great. However, the Ford dealership that was going to do the parts and install of the towing package says 1500 lbs for my VIN since it did not have original factory towing when shipped. What is your understanding?

I would think this is a question for the manufacturer rather than the dealer.

 

[RodNSA]

You do plan to use the Ford hitch that they sell for the BS, right? Then the owners manual applies. If not planning to use a genuine Ford accessory hitch, then I can see why the dealer made the comment. They can't speak for any other hitch made that was not tested by Ford. Not that another would be inferior, its just that they would not know.
I think the price for the Ford hitch is a good one, especially if you use the free points against it.

Yes, I was having everything done at my local Ford dealership using parts they provide. I have stalled the install because when I went in to order everything the Mgr told me that anything they do to do the install would not be exactly the same as ordering it from the factory. He said the VIN shows towing capacity and after they do the install it still would not change the number. So instead of 2000 pounds towing capacity he said ut would only be 1500 pounds. This is exactly why I've posted in 3 groups because it's not making since to me ... a class 2 install should give me the same 2000 pounds towing capacity ... just as if it came from the factory.

 

[Mark S.]

He said the VIN shows towing capacity and after they do the install it still would not change the number. So instead of 2000 pounds towing capacity he said ut would only be 1500 pounds. This is exactly why I've posted in 3 groups because it's not making since to me ... a class 2 install should give me the same 2000 pounds towing capacity ... just as if it came from the factory.

Did you see my post above? I believe to get the full 2000 lb tow capacity your vehicle needs to have sway control. It's a software thing. I don't believe the base models come with sway control since the factory tow package is not an option on the base trim.

 

[RodNSA]

Did you see my post above? I believe to get the full 2000 lb tow capacity your vehicle needs to have sway control. It's a software thing. I don't believe the base models come with sway control since the factory tow package is not an option on the base trim.

Sorry, missed that part. Sounds correct based on other comments and service

 

[67L48]

Ok ... help me out. [...] So when looking at a potential camper that would mean it's dry weight probably needs to be in more like 1200-1300 max ... allowing for tanks, battery, water, etc ... even if packing light with minimal essentials? [...]

You need 2 things: the trailer's GVWR and your vehicle's payload (on the door jamb sticker of you vehicle -- this is not a number that can be looked up online).

Dry weights are almost useless. It's about like asking a 50 year old man how much they weigh and him responding, "Well, I weighed 150 lbs in high school."

Until you get into very large trailers, the best approximation to use for the real-world, rolling-down-the-road weight for your camping trailer is that camping trailer's GVWR. For example, if a brochure stated that a trailer had a dry weight of 1,200 lbs, GVWR of 2,000 lbs, and a carrying capacity of 800 lbs, then I would recommend that a person use 2,000 lbs as the expected weight of that trailer when ready to go.

When you add factory options, dealer options, accessories, bedding, cookware, leveling items, tools, food, drinks, fresh water (if applicable), battery, and so on, there is always about 2x more actual weight than most people expect. It all adds up incredibly fast. People generally forget that A/C, furnace, water heater, and other things from the factory are often not in that dry weight. Neither are things like batteries, optional TVs, and other things the dealership adds. Before you even drive it off the RV dealership lot, that trailer is going to weigh a lot more than the published dry weight.

So, take the trailer's GVWR and take 13-15% of that number. That's how much weight the trailer is dropping onto the vehicle. Thus, a 2,000 lb trailer will put ~300 lbs onto the BS.

Next, figure out the weight of everything in or on the BS: you, your passengers (use actual, clothed weights), pets, the trailer hitch, anything on the roof rack, anything you added to your BS, bags, gear, tools, auxiliary lighting, 2" lift kit, and so on.

Make sure you're not overloading your BS. Ensure that Payload Capacity (from door jamb) > [everything in or on the BS] + [hitch weight of your trailer]

With most cars and light trucks, you can either tow heavy or haul a lot of people/gear, but you can't do both. With most cars, if you tow max, then you need to be driving solo ... if you have a family of 4 + gear, then you probably can't tow much.

Good luck.

Also, don't forget the gross vehicle weight rating. This is the weight of the fully loaded vehicle AND trailer. [...]

That first part is not correct. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is definitely not the weight of the fully loaded vehicle AND trailer. That's just not right.

The GVWR is the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle can be as it rolls down the road. The actual amount of weight of a vehicle that rolls down the road is the GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight). A given vehicle's GVW will be the vehicle itself (curb weight) and then anything else that was added to it (people, accessories, tools, gear, and so on). When towing a trailer, some weight from that trailer (usually 12-15%) will drop onto the hitch and, therefore, be supported by the vehicle ... the hitch weight of the trailer will be part of the GVW (that it, it will consume payload).

The weight of the fully loaded vehicle and trailer is GCW (Gross Combined Weight). It's less common for smaller vehicles, but most vehicles also have a GCWR, a Gross Combined Weight Rating.

It's important not to conflate these numbers and ratings as Mark S has done.

 

[RodNSA]

You need 2 things: the trailer's GVWR and your vehicle's payload (on the door jamb sticker of you vehicle -- this is not a number that can be looked up online).

Dry weights are almost useless. It's about like asking a 50 year old man how much they weigh and him responding, "Well, I weighed 150 lbs in high school."

Until you get into very large trailers, the best approximation to use for the real-world, rolling-down-the-road weight for your camping trailer is that camping trailer's GVWR. For example, if a brochure stated that a trailer had a dry weight of 1,200 lbs, GVWR of 2,000 lbs, and a carrying capacity of 800 lbs, then I would recommend that a person use 2,000 lbs as the expected weight of that trailer when ready to go.

When you add factory options, dealer options, accessories, bedding, cookware, leveling items, tools, food, drinks, fresh water (if applicable), battery, and so on, there is always about 2x more actual weight than most people expect. It all adds up incredibly fast. People generally forget that A/C, furnace, water heater, and other things from the factory are often not in that dry weight. Neither are things like batteries, optional TVs, and other things the dealership adds. Before you even drive it off the RV dealership lot, that trailer is going to weigh a lot more than the published dry weight.

So, take the trailer's GVWR and take 13-15% of that number. That's how much weight the trailer is dropping onto the vehicle. Thus, a 2,000 lb trailer will put ~300 lbs onto the BS.

Next, figure out the weight of everything in or on the BS: you, your passengers (use actual, clothed weights), pets, the trailer hitch, anything on the roof rack, anything you added to your BS, bags, gear, tools, auxiliary lighting, 2" lift kit, and so on.

Make sure you're not overloading your BS. Ensure that Payload Capacity (from door jamb) > [everything in or on the BS] + [hitch weight of your trailer]

With most cars and light trucks, you can either tow heavy or haul a lot of people/gear, but you can't do both. With most cars, if you tow max, then you need to be driving solo ... if you have a family of 4 + gear, then you probably can't tow much.

Good luck.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks ... well written and informative. I've gotta go out later and look at the door jamb sticker. I'm aware of what the GVWR but seems like when looking online that weight is difficult to find out but dry weight is always published. Luckily for me, I'm a single 65 yo recently retired school principal who wants to travel only around Texas (also where I live in the San Antonio area) to see my adult children and grands. Also probably a few state parks with good nature areas and DEFINITELY going to East Texas around all the beautiful lakes for fishing, etc. So, rarely will I actually be driving my vehicle and pulling the camper with any other occupants. I might occasionally have 1 guest or family member. Luckily I'm a no frills guy who needs very little and travels light. Unfortunately, my tent days are over due to some health issues so having some minimal creature comforts (like AC and at minimal a porta-potty). I've just found 2 major issues so far ... 1) having Ford order and install OEM tow package so they can give me a towing weight number since I don't want to invalidate my warranty. 2) finding the actual gross weight for the RV that I'm considering buying. Of lesser concern is the price. Originally I thought I could get something small ... like a Bushwacker Plus which was under 20k. I'd really like to stay under 25k if possible. Ok ... time for a break. Thanks for your help. Lots of options. Probably the Bushwacker Plus, Ascape ST or the ProLite Plus S are my favorites. Of that list the ProLite Plus is the lightest around 1300 lbs ... I think.

 

[Mark S.]

It's important not to conflate these numbers and ratings as Mark S has done.

Correct. I typed the wrong one. Always seem to get those two confused.

Sponsored