- First Name
- Tomas
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2024
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- 7
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- 1,045
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- 1,380
- Location
- Sacramento
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Bronco Sport Badlands
the pictures of his current set up show 225 series continentalsThat’s what Garth has.
Sponsored
- First Name
- Tomas
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2024
- Threads
- 7
- Messages
- 1,045
- Reaction score
- 1,380
- Location
- Sacramento
- Vehicle(s)
- 2024 Bronco Sport Badlands
@Frenchy906 
you're right. i was looking too hard at the measuring tape. didn't notice the sidewall on the tires changed before and after as well.
you're right. i was looking too hard at the measuring tape. didn't notice the sidewall on the tires changed before and after as well.Just installed the HRG 1.5" lift. Did it myself. Install wasn't too bad......took a fair amount more time than the 2-2.5 hours HRG quotes on the YouTube video, AND there are parts in the kit (at least for my Badlands) that need to be installed that weren't shown in the video. Specifically, the rear subframe spacers.
None of it was particularly difficult. After watching the video, he claims the rear is easier, and it certainly looks that way in the video, so I started there. After completing it, I strongly disagree that was the easier end.
Installing the spacers in the rear trailing arms was the most difficult part of the entire installation by far! If anyone attempts this on their own, I STRONGLY recommend removing ONE factory bolt, then putting some grease on one of the new bolts and running it in and out of the hole until it goes in and out easily (I used an impact after making sure it wasn't cross threaded before I gave it the beans). Do this for both bolts on each side - one at a time before you pull BOTH factory bolts out. When you remove both at the same time, the trailing arms will move out of position and you will have a heck of a time getting the bolts to align with the holes again and it won't be clear if the bolts are cross threaded or not! The factory bolts are tapered to aid starting the threads. Unfortunately, HRG didn't provide this type of bolt so everything has to align perfectly to get these started! Not gonna lie - this part sucks! You'll have to fight this fight of aligning the trailing arms and the holes with the spacers regardless, but it's MUCH easier if the holes are clean and the new bolts thread in and out easily so there's no question they are not cross threaded! I used a couple different pry bars to move the trailing arms down and over enough to slide the spacers above them and I used a tapered punch to help align one side while I inserted a bolt in the other side once I had BOTH spacers installed and close to their final position. I found it was much easier to install the INNER spacer first and then install the outer spacer, then align one side (inner first worked best for me) using the tapered punch while installing the outer bolt, then finally the inner bolt. Following this process SIGNIFICANTLY simplified the passenger side installation of these spacers, after I struggled for quite a while with the driver's side.
The rear spring spacers and rear subframe spacers were pretty straightforward. I did end up finding out there are written instructions in a pdf. I recommend using those rather than the Youtube video. Maybe it's best to review the video too, BUT I would follow the process in the written material and just use the YouTube video for reference.
They don't tell you what to do with the large washers that come in the same bag as the new rear subframe bolts and some other hardware, but I called and they confirmed my suspicion. They go between the new rear subframe bolt heads and the bottom of the subframe mounts. Once you fully remove the first factory rear subframe bolt, it will be pretty obvious why they included those washers. The holes in those mounts are quite a bit larger than the bolts, so the washers just make sense to close the gap and provide a solid clamping surface for the bolt heads.
If I was doing it again, I'd follow the order in the written PDF instructions. Since he didn't show the installation of the rear subframe spacers in the YouTube video, I installed those last. MAYBE that's why I had to fight those trailing arms so much.
The front install was pretty straightforward. I had no questions and everything went to plan there. No unexpected issues - just a little challenging trying to re-align the knuckle in the lower strut with the spring spacer installed. You really have to push the knuckle down further to realign everything. Getting the upper camber bolt installed was only slightly challenging. I found adjusting the height of the hub with the jack while trying to install these makes life easier. Also, in the video, it shows he installed the camber bolts from the rear to the front, but both factory bolts install from front to rear and the written instructions say to install the camber bolts in the same direction as the factory bolts. Again, I recommend following the written instructions.
Some good news.....they updated the relocation process of the front ABS wire compared to what's shown in the video. No drilling is required now, which is great! They designed some slick brackets that mount under one of the front subframe bolts. These installed VERY easily and worked well. My only concern is that the ABS wire ends up with some slack where it makes the direction change from vertical (down) to rearward in vehicle. I didn't like this - I imagined a stick or something catching on this and damaging the harness, so I modified the factory Christmas tree clips on that section of harness by first removing them, cutting off the locating tab and shortening that "leg" of the plastic rail, and then re-taping this to the harness in the "right" location. Conveniently, there are two existing holes in the inner fender right about where that wire makes the new 90 degree bend and if you place the modified Christmas tree fastener in the "right" location, you can securely mount the harness here by pushing the Christmas tree into the rear most hole and clean up the slack, routing it neatly and snugly to the inner fender. If anyone wants a photo of what I did here, please just let me know.
I'm scheduled for an alignment on Tuesday. I drove it a little and no complaints so far. No strange noises. REALLY like the appearance, although I'm waiting until after the alignment before I put on new tires. Can't do much damage to these factory Pirellis.
I measured the before and after fender lip ride height changes (after some driving and settling). It's pretty spot on to the 1.5" HRG quotes. A little more/less per corner, but the 4-corner average lift is 1.55", the front average lift is 1.53", and the rear average lift is 1.56".
Individual corner height increases are as follows:
Front Left: 1.5625"
Rear Left: 1.3125"
Front Right: 1.5"
Rear Right: 1.8125"
I'll post an update if there are any issues with the alignment, but I'm crossing my fingers (and toes!).
None of it was particularly difficult. After watching the video, he claims the rear is easier, and it certainly looks that way in the video, so I started there. After completing it, I strongly disagree that was the easier end.
Installing the spacers in the rear trailing arms was the most difficult part of the entire installation by far! If anyone attempts this on their own, I STRONGLY recommend removing ONE factory bolt, then putting some grease on one of the new bolts and running it in and out of the hole until it goes in and out easily (I used an impact after making sure it wasn't cross threaded before I gave it the beans). Do this for both bolts on each side - one at a time before you pull BOTH factory bolts out. When you remove both at the same time, the trailing arms will move out of position and you will have a heck of a time getting the bolts to align with the holes again and it won't be clear if the bolts are cross threaded or not! The factory bolts are tapered to aid starting the threads. Unfortunately, HRG didn't provide this type of bolt so everything has to align perfectly to get these started! Not gonna lie - this part sucks! You'll have to fight this fight of aligning the trailing arms and the holes with the spacers regardless, but it's MUCH easier if the holes are clean and the new bolts thread in and out easily so there's no question they are not cross threaded! I used a couple different pry bars to move the trailing arms down and over enough to slide the spacers above them and I used a tapered punch to help align one side while I inserted a bolt in the other side once I had BOTH spacers installed and close to their final position. I found it was much easier to install the INNER spacer first and then install the outer spacer, then align one side (inner first worked best for me) using the tapered punch while installing the outer bolt, then finally the inner bolt. Following this process SIGNIFICANTLY simplified the passenger side installation of these spacers, after I struggled for quite a while with the driver's side.
The rear spring spacers and rear subframe spacers were pretty straightforward. I did end up finding out there are written instructions in a pdf. I recommend using those rather than the Youtube video. Maybe it's best to review the video too, BUT I would follow the process in the written material and just use the YouTube video for reference.
They don't tell you what to do with the large washers that come in the same bag as the new rear subframe bolts and some other hardware, but I called and they confirmed my suspicion. They go between the new rear subframe bolt heads and the bottom of the subframe mounts. Once you fully remove the first factory rear subframe bolt, it will be pretty obvious why they included those washers. The holes in those mounts are quite a bit larger than the bolts, so the washers just make sense to close the gap and provide a solid clamping surface for the bolt heads.
If I was doing it again, I'd follow the order in the written PDF instructions. Since he didn't show the installation of the rear subframe spacers in the YouTube video, I installed those last. MAYBE that's why I had to fight those trailing arms so much.
The front install was pretty straightforward. I had no questions and everything went to plan there. No unexpected issues - just a little challenging trying to re-align the knuckle in the lower strut with the spring spacer installed. You really have to push the knuckle down further to realign everything. Getting the upper camber bolt installed was only slightly challenging. I found adjusting the height of the hub with the jack while trying to install these makes life easier. Also, in the video, it shows he installed the camber bolts from the rear to the front, but both factory bolts install from front to rear and the written instructions say to install the camber bolts in the same direction as the factory bolts. Again, I recommend following the written instructions.
Some good news.....they updated the relocation process of the front ABS wire compared to what's shown in the video. No drilling is required now, which is great! They designed some slick brackets that mount under one of the front subframe bolts. These installed VERY easily and worked well. My only concern is that the ABS wire ends up with some slack where it makes the direction change from vertical (down) to rearward in vehicle. I didn't like this - I imagined a stick or something catching on this and damaging the harness, so I modified the factory Christmas tree clips on that section of harness by first removing them, cutting off the locating tab and shortening that "leg" of the plastic rail, and then re-taping this to the harness in the "right" location. Conveniently, there are two existing holes in the inner fender right about where that wire makes the new 90 degree bend and if you place the modified Christmas tree fastener in the "right" location, you can securely mount the harness here by pushing the Christmas tree into the rear most hole and clean up the slack, routing it neatly and snugly to the inner fender. If anyone wants a photo of what I did here, please just let me know.
I'm scheduled for an alignment on Tuesday. I drove it a little and no complaints so far. No strange noises. REALLY like the appearance, although I'm waiting until after the alignment before I put on new tires. Can't do much damage to these factory Pirellis.
I measured the before and after fender lip ride height changes (after some driving and settling). It's pretty spot on to the 1.5" HRG quotes. A little more/less per corner, but the 4-corner average lift is 1.55", the front average lift is 1.53", and the rear average lift is 1.56".
Individual corner height increases are as follows:
Front Left: 1.5625"
Rear Left: 1.3125"
Front Right: 1.5"
Rear Right: 1.8125"
I'll post an update if there are any issues with the alignment, but I'm crossing my fingers (and toes!).
This is a good very descriptive post, I see HRG also offer camber bolts which might be a good thing to have before the alignment.
The shop that installed mine said they couldnt source any and I should rotate the tires every oil change or sooner and keep an eye for uneven wear.
The shop that installed mine said they couldnt source any and I should rotate the tires every oil change or sooner and keep an eye for uneven wear.
Thanks, I might pick some up. I would have thought if there was an issue Bilstein would have mentioned it or even included some.
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Nah, camber bolts are a typical requirement for lifted suspension. HRG’s 1.5” kit includes them, and we sell them all the time at the NAPA I run, but I decided to outsource the ones for the bronco lol
Ooooof. Thats rough. My cousin owns one of our largest shops in the area and told me he would install it for me for nothing.
Post it here, too.Bad luck here with the b8 I will create a post to explain my issue but was a factory problem .
In trying ti sell my old shocks and struts in the for sale section, Canada
It looks like your swaybar link is bentBad luck here with the b8 I will create a post to explain my issue but was a factory problem .