I'm thinking about changing the stock battery to a AGM type battery
BMS does need to be reset after replacing the battery but anyone not just a dealership can do it:
Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset):
When you install a new battery, reset the battery sensor by doing the following:
1. Switch ignition on, and leave the engine off.
Note: Complete Steps 2 & 3 within 10 seconds.
2. Flash the high beam headlamps five times, ending with the high beams off.
3. Press and release the brake pedal 3 times.
The battery warning lamp flashes 3 times to confirm that the reset is successful.
Thanks. If I have to replace the battery on my own dime, I'll do it myself.
I had a 2018 Escape Titanium and I replaced the battery myself. What a PITA to do. The dealer wanted, if I remember correctly, around $150 to reset it.
I don't know if this procedure would have applied to the Escape at the time. I never reset the BMS and no ill effects. Sold it 6 months later.
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These are some photos of my replacement AGM battery. The factory battery
was the same AGM.
21 OB February 2021 build.
21 OB February 2021 build.
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Just a quick question slightly off topic. When the time comes to replace the battery in my wife's '20 Ecosport, should I go with the AGM? Does the Ecosport have the same requirements as my OBX?
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Isn’t their a fail safe for this too? Like over night the system resets itself anyways or when it enters “deep sleep” or whatever they call it? I could be totally wrong haha
I’ve heard the same as you that overnight the system resets itself (might be in the owners manual IDK)
But the Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset) is easy to do, so might as well.
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I would say if you're not having battery issues with your wife's car then use whatever kind of battery you like. There are pros and cons for each type.
OP
OP
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I'd go AGM next.
AGM batteries can resist damage from extreme temps and vibration. The absorbed mats give AGM batteries a sponge-like resistance to vibrations. A regular car battery's sensitive internal components can break apart if you shake it hard enough. Its lead plates are hanging from a sturdy metal in liquid.
AGM batteries can resist damage from extreme temps and vibration. The absorbed mats give AGM batteries a sponge-like resistance to vibrations. A regular car battery's sensitive internal components can break apart if you shake it hard enough. Its lead plates are hanging from a sturdy metal in liquid.
When I bought my rig (used), it included a new AGM. If I start experiencing any issues, going the lithium-ion route, unless a solid-state becomes an option.
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I know dealing with RV charging systems that Li-ion "house" batteries have different charging settings over lead-acid. I imagine the same might be true for charging an automotive starter battery. Would the BMS be able to be setup for this and if not, would the LI-ion battery be compromised using non LI-ion settings? Cheers!
I know their used in a good amount of automotive drag/street as well as marine applications, I haven't heard of any issues
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Good question!
Yes, lithium (typically LFP type for cars and RVs) does require a different charging profile. LFP battery mfrs and vendors downplay that because it adds $hundreds to the cost. They claim their batteries are "Plug & Play, dude!" Not.
What is typically used for alternator charging is a "DC-DC" charger. It bumps the voltage up and limits the current. The internal BMS will protect the battery from excessive charging current (typically 50-100A), but the DC-DC charger is needed to protect the alternator -- because LFP batteries are a very high load, esp when discharged, almost a dead short.
A good DC-DC charger, like Redarc, is expensive -- $640 in this case:
https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/bcdc-alpha50
* 50A Charging from DC and solar power
* Compatible with all common automotive battery types including lithium (LiFePO4)
* Outlast other chargers with IP67/69K dust and moisture protection
There are less pricy ones, but that IP rating is important, esp for BS owners who drive off-road.
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