New to Towing Questions

[BuckyBL2025]

I have a 2025 BSBL max towing capacity is rated at 2,700 lbs from what I understand. With my current setup I just need an insert ball hitch that's easy enough. Does the wiring already equipped hook universally to like a U-Haul trailer or do I need to add like some sort of adapter? I have bigger tires as well 245/65/R17 that are rated to hold more weight, does this do anything for my towing capacity or is the factory rating based on stress on the motor or body of the Bronco? I'm moving this weekend and wanted to get a trailer vs a truck but thinking about the weight of the trailer and they fully loading it not sure if its a smart move.

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[Jmuns]

How far are you moving? How much stuff? Might be easier to just rent a U-Haul truck over a trailer.

The capacity doesn’t change. And that’s trailer plus contents.

 

[BuckyBL2025]

How far are you moving? How much stuff? Might be easier to just rent a U-Haul truck over a trailer.

The capacity doesn’t change. And that’s trailer plus contents.

5 Miles, not moving washer and dryer, not moving a fridge, just cloths, nick-nacks, trinkets, small furniture. stuff like that.

 

[Dadio]

Your factory tow package has a standard 4 -pin connector for lights. Small U haul utility and small moving trailers without trailer brakes use the same 4-pin connector. This 4 pin is sufficient for trailers up to a certain weight, but heavier trailers will require trailer brakes, a controller and a 7 pin connector (not factory) / Check State laws.

Your Bronco sport is a capable tow vehicle within its limits. I use Sport Mode when towing. If your have the factory tow package, the towing capacity of your sport is based on the vehicle as built. Your u-haul store will be able to match a trailer to your requirements , with consideration to your vehicles towing capabilities.

Its not overly complicated, but there is a formula for calculating the max you will be able to safely tow based on the trailer weight, tongue weight and payload you intend to carry including what’s in the vehicle itself. Below is the link to the Ford towing guide.

https://www.vdm.ford.com/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/towing/pdf/2025-Ford-RV-and-Trailer-Towing-Guide.pdf

 

[BuckyBL2025]

Your factory tow package has a standard 4 -pin connector for lights. Small U haul utility and small moving trailers without trailer brakes use the same 4-pin connector. This 4 pin is sufficient for trailers up to a certain weight, but heavier trailers will require trailer brakes, a controller and a 7 pin connector (not factory) / Check State laws.

Your Bronco sport is a capable tow vehicle within its limits. I use Sport Mode when towing. If your have the factory tow package, the towing capacity of your sport is based on the vehicle as built. Your u-haul store will be able to match a trailer to your requirements , with consideration to your vehicles towing capabilities.

Its not overly complicated, but there is a formula for calculating the max you will be able to safely tow based on the trailer weight, tongue weight and payload you intend to carry including what’s in the vehicle itself. Below is the link to the Ford towing guide.

https://www.vdm.ford.com/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/towing/pdf/2025-Ford-RV-and-Trailer-Towing-Guide.pdf

Thank you for the details regarding the OEM plug and its weight capacity. I appreciate it.

 

[jkernitzki]

Towing calculations can have you chasing your tail. The max tow rating is but one component of several that have to be accounted for to tow safely (and not void the warrantee should a mishap occur). The spec sheet from Ford is only for the model/trim in general, your specific build will be somewhat different based on added options.

Look at the sticker in the driver's door jamb, and you'll see front axle, rear axle, and gross vehicle ratings. Different tires can't increase tow capacity, but they can sure lower it based on load rating. The axles (and as-equipped suspension) are the limiting factor for weight.

If there's one near enough, it would be educational and eye-opening to take the BS to a CAT Scale and get base weight with you and a full tank, the same with an empty trailer, and finally with a loaded trailer. Moving one piece of cargo a couple feet forward or aft can change the dynamics dramatically.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

If you haven’t towed anything before, I would start out conservative. Hold the steering wheel at the bottom as that makes the movements more natural. Dual wheel axles are easier to back up as are longer trailers. Most importantly watch the weight on the tongue. Too little is as bad as too much.

I had a friend that would only take his boat out on crappy days as he hated having people watch him back it up at the dock. It’s really not that difficult, just take it slow and easy.

 

[DonImbimbo]

You are in Ohio, I'm in PA. In PA if a trailer is equipped with brakes in PA then they MUST be used to be legal, regardless of the weight of the cargo. For 5 miles I'm not sure it would be worth worrying about in your state.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

You are in Ohio, I'm in PA. In PA if a trailer is equipped with brakes in PA then they MUST be used to be legal, regardless of the weight of the cargo. For 5 miles I'm not sure it would be worth worrying about in your state.

Even the bigger UHauls use surge brakes and four pin connectors. Wouldn’t be a problem renting. Surge brake can be a pita when backing up but otherwise work fine.

 

[NMhunter]

Holding the bottom of the steering wheel, move the wheel the way you want the trailer to go, when backing up. Small movements of the steering wheel are best.

My BS Badlands has a towing capacity of 2200 lbs. and a payload capacity of 1010 lbs. That 1010 lbs. includes passengers. But what usually limits safe towing is tongue weight. So, it is important to load your trailer so you don't put too much weight on the hitch. But, you need about 10 to 15 percent of the trailers weight to sit on the hitch. They are very unstable without enough tongue weight. That is why the trailer wheels are behind the center of the trailer. Just don't load the heaviest items in the back.

All that said, loading household goods, you're unlikely to exceed the weight limits, and if you did it probably wouldn't matter at in town speeds for a 5 mile trip.

 

[Dennis Kilbride]

I tow a 6'6"x10' trailer that weigh's 990 and a 1000-pound ATV. Half a tank of gas in the Bronco Sport Big Bend and never go above 60mph. Round trip is 460 miles. The tach averages around 1750 (see pic). I do use a small digital scale verifying 200-pound max on tongue. Premium fuel gets me 19.8 mpg. I've done about 6 trips with it in two years.

 

[jkernitzki]

For anyone interested, here’s the as-built ratings for a ‘25 Badlands with the Sasquatch package, CMS, Tech Package, and no moonroof. As always, YMMV depending on your specific build.

Front GAWR: 2595
Rear GAWR: 2480
GVWR: 4910
Payload: 914

GCWR, tow, & tongue are the same for all ‘25 Badlands, 6890, 2700, & 270, respectively.

I’m going to take it to a CAT scale soon and update with actual weights to get an idea of what my margins are.

 

[jkernitzki]

Got it scaled today. Here's the results for my build:

Front (Steer) Axle: 2340​

Rear (Drive) Axle: 1760​

Gross Weight: 4100​

This includes one adult passenger. Given the axle and cargo ratings, I have remaining capacity:

Front: 255​

Rear: 720​

Gross: 810​

Cargo: 810​

My curb weight works out to ~3900 with full fluids.

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