Anyone install a tuning kit?

[Bucko]

Just be safe, and investigate thoroughly.

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[basser5150]

There are several places for turners. I have run cobb for years. This place has covered itself with the racing box.

 

[o0260o]

The 1.5 gets 200hp in Puma and Fiesta ST, that's 19hp more. 2 liter gets just 5hp more on the maverick.

 

[Sig Oris]

JB4, is well known in the tuning industry so I wouldnt be worried about them standing behind their product/$529 isnt all that bad a price, I paid $700 for the Ford Performance Tuner for my full size Bronco and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the transmission (automatic shifting) and overall driveability with an approximate 10 to 15hp gain
If an when my BS Heritage Limited ever arrives I will be looking to squeeze out a few more HP out of the 2.0

bought the Ford Tune for my MY22 Ranger and agree with your comments

lots of Ranger people like Livernois:

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/computer-and-tuning/2021/ford/bronco-sport

 

[The_Jimmer]

PS: They run specials regularly. I got the GTS for $379.

I just received my system from Racechip, a German Company of outstanding record for their plug-and-play systems. I'll update once I get it installed. https://www.racechip.us/shop/ford/bronco-sport-from-2021/2-0t-ecoboost-1999ccm-250hp-183kw-380lb-ft.html?product=rs

 

[Mark S.]

More grist for the mill:

https://www.carscoops.com/2023/05/dodge-voids-hellcat-jailbreak-warranty-allegedly-over-mid-muffler-delete-leaving-owner-with-36k-repair-bill/

 

[Bucko]

More grist for the mill:

https://www.carscoops.com/2023/05/dodge-voids-hellcat-jailbreak-warranty-allegedly-over-mid-muffler-delete-leaving-owner-with-36k-repair-bill/

Saw this over at the challenger forum I'm on. I think this owner will have a case against Dodge, as thehttps://www.autocare.org/government-relations/current-issues/Magnuson-Moss-Warranty-Act will protect a consumer against this type of action. In the link, it states "a manufacturer can only deny warranty coverage if it can demonstrate that a non-original equipment part or related service caused a defect to occur in the original product".

In simple terms, it will be up to the dealer to prove it. It will be cheaper for the dealer/Dodge warranty group to pay out the 6 grand for a new motor rather then attempt to fight this in court and try to prove how a deleted muffler caused the engine to blow.

 

[cprcubed]

I'm willing to bet that the legal team's fees to fight that in court will be more than the $36k engine. Also, if they have proof that the ECU had a unauthorized program on it, he'll lose. Cheers!

 

[Bucko]

I'm willing to bet that the legal team's fees to fight that in court will be more than the $36k engine. Also, if they have proof that the ECU had a unauthorized program on it, he'll lose. Cheers!

It has changed since I first read about this from the Challenger forum. First, it was denied due to removed mufflers. In reading it now (update#2), the PCM was tampered with. I agree with cprcubed statement bolded above...he will loose, even if he removed the tune at anytime prior to the engine failure. This is why I'd personally steer clear of a tune unless the factory warranty has expired, as you would not make a claim for warranty work then.

If update#2 is correct, then the Magnuson-Moss-Warranty-Act may not apply, as most tunes change the timing, rev limiter, and air/fuel mixture above the factory recommended limits. At best, maybe Dodge will offer a reduced price offer. They (Dodge) will still have to prove the modification caused the failure though.

 

[Mark S.]

If update#2 is correct, then the Magnuson-Moss-Warranty-Act may not apply, as most tunes change the timing, rev limiter, and air/fuel mixture above the factory recommended limits. At best, maybe Dodge will offer a reduced price offer. They (Dodge) will still have to prove the modification caused the failure though.

This is technically true, but I'm with @cprcubed on this one. Additionally, manufacturers face the risk of steep fines for violations of the Magnuson-Moss act, so I'm fairly confident when one denies a warranty claim for a stated reason it will have the proof it needs to defend itself should a customer wish to mount a court challenge.

 

[WinTech]

I've tuned mine with tunes from 5 star tuning using an SCT BDX. Even the base 87 octane tune provides noticeable gains. It really goes with the 91 octane, but I am currently running the stock tune because I have had a few issues with the transmission not shifting. Super random and may not happen for weeks. It will initially shift to second or third gear and then just will not upshift anymore until I come to a stop. Then it works normally until the next time. I am eventually going to address it with 5 star but have so much going on this spring/summer that I just don't have time.

 

[sajohnson]

My anecdotal story:

I waited until my 2002 WRX was no longer under warranty and bought a tune and stainless replacement down pipe from Cobb Engineering. Cobb worked closely with Subaru and had/has? a very good reputation. They did not make wild claims, and emphasized focusing on longevity (as opposed to getting every last bit of power) so I felt comfortable going with them.

"Stage I" really did not make much difference. It was not worth doing, IMO.

"Stage II" using the larger downpipe with a high-flow cat was night and day. It had significantly more hp and torque (Cobb claimed a measured 285/285). The extra power was/is nice but what was even more useful was the fact that the turbo now spools up at around 2,250 rpm vs ~3,000.

Stock, I'd have to down shift to 4th on some of the hills around here to keep the rpm up while staying close to the 50 mph limit (3,000 rpm in 5th is about 75 mph).

With Stage II I can just leave it in 5th gear.

It's also nice not to have to rev it so high to pull away from a stop at a reasonable rate. The WRX (and many other turbocharged cars) is a total dog if you drive it like a naturally aspirated car -- rev to just above idle and engage the clutch. I mean it's embarrassing -- it'll get left in the dust by minivans. So having the turbo spool up at lower rpm really helps.

It now has a little over 200,000 miles on it (it was at 100,000 when modified) and it still runs great. I do hear what sounds like minor piston slap when it's cold, but that goes away when it warms up.

As others have said:

* Be aware that any tune may void your warranty.
* If you can accept that risk, do your homework.
* Don't be swayed by unsubstantiated wild claims of huge power gains.
* Look for a company that's been around a long time and focuses on Fords.
* Try to read multiple reviews from people who have used the same tune for a long time.
* Don't expect miracles. A 5 or 10% gain will not be very noticeable. The only reason I was able to get more (~30%) with the WRX is that I modified the exhaust. Stage I was a minimal bump.
* Look at the before/after hp & torque curves. A large hp increase is not very useful if it is just a sharp peak at the top end of the rpm range. A broad increase, from just off idle to red line, is best.

 

[Meanderthal]

* Look at the before/after hp & torque curves. A large hp increase is not very useful if it is just a sharp peak at the top end of the rpm range. A broad increase, from just off idle to red line, is best.

This is what most people fail to do and just focus on the peak numbers. Torque increase is more useful for the daily grind.

 

[Mark S.]

This is what most people fail to do and just focus on the peak numbers. Torque increase is more useful for the daily grind.

Yup. And this is why I don't find software mods for EcoBoost engines worth the risk. The EcoBoost platform was designed from the start to provide greater torque at lower RPM to improve everyday driveability. Sure, you can get more low-end torque by mucking with the software, but high torque demand at low RPM is one of the primary contributors to low-speed preignition (LSPI). I just don't find the gains offered by a tune to be worth eroding the safety margins Ford's engineers built in to the OEM software to protect against LSPI.

 

[ohiooutdoors]

The OEM powertrain control module incorporates limits on power output based on sensor readings to protect the engine from self destructing. These "tuners" work by intercepting those signals so the PCM receives false readings. The goal is to relax or eliminate the programmed safety limits so the engine can generate more power than Ford has deemed safe.

Some people have good luck with tuners, running them for years with no issues. Others experience catastrophic engine failure. There are two major problems with these devices: 1) there's generally no warning to let the driver know they operating close to or beyond a limit whose exceedance can result in catastrophic engine failure, and 2) if Ford discovers you installed one of these devices your warranty will not cover repairs. I know some will say you can always remove the device before making a warranty claim, and that's certainly true. It's also fraudulent, and downright scummy. Why should Ford pay for damage you caused?

I urge anyone considering one of these devices to think twice. If you have a need for more power you should probably just get a different vehicle.

I think most tunes are relatively safe and in my experience most engine failure is a result of the owner playing with the tube (if they are able to) I know in the srt world you would get a diablo and I’ve seen some people tinker with the can tune when they have no clue what the tune is doing.

The other error comes from the owner using shit fuel and going wot every chance they can.

I found that most tuners keep their base tunes pretty conservative at the end of the day they don’t want to deal with that pain in the ass customer who blew their engine.

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