Does 2.0L engine use cylinder deactivation like the 1.5?

dreamwrx

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Don’t turbos normally do worse in altitude?
yes.. but I think what he means is that since there is only two options right now.. 1.5T or the 2.0T.. a little more displacement will help.
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Cyclone Cowboy

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I've never owned or drove a vehicle with the "auto start/Stop technology."

Any opinions? Does this cause an acceleration delay? Is there a way to turn it off?
 

Bdub

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I'm not a fan of it in my F-150. There is a disable button on the dash but it must be pressed everytime you start the truck. There are some aftermarket devices you can plug in to the OBD port to disable the feature but I haven't tried one. Pretty soon every car will have auto stop start to help meet fuel standards. It's been proven the gas savings/emission reduction is minimal but it will still be forced on us. It has to be harder on the vehicles starter.
 

Tdubz

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I've never owned or drove a vehicle with the "auto start/Stop technology."

Any opinions? Does this cause an acceleration delay? Is there a way to turn it off?
If your AC is on max, then the auto start stop doesn’t kick in. I always have max ac on so I don’t remember the last time it shut off my engine. If you live in a colder state, that’s probably not possible though. There is a button you can press to turn it off, however you have to push it every time you start the car. There is no permanent option to turn it off in the menus.
 

The Pope

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The 1.5L isn’t as powerful as bigger engines but it isn’t “underpowered.” If the 1.5L was powering a mid or full size suv then it would be underpowered. Don’t pass with faster vehicles gliding up the road. That is dangerous. If you need to pass vehicles in a hurry, get a sports car.
Whether or not an engine is under-powered or not, will depend on several factors.
-Weight of vehicle
-Transmission Gearing
-Axle Gearing
-Tire Size
.... just to name a few.

Also.... for me.... whether or not a vehicle can accelerate at a acceleration factor that I'm comfortable with or not (all of the Vehicle Weight, Gearing & Tires combined) is how I decide if an engine option is or isn't acquitted For Me.

If you're perfectly happy to follow behind a Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain pass, then the 1.5L in the BS will most likely be acceptable to you.

If you don't like to follow behind a Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain pass, then the 1.5L in the BS will most likely not be acceptable for you.

Bottom line (for me) is that the vehicle that I'm driving must be able to Safely pass Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain passes (when there are other vehicles that are traveling at or below the posted speed limits passing it). It "should" be able to accelerate (not saying that it's got to "burn rubber", but it should be able to increase the MPH at more than a snail's pace) with a Full Load (max manufacturer rating) as I ascend through a mountain pass.

Test drive complete. In Colorado, definitely the 2.0 is needed! Under powered vehicles feel strained going to the mountains, not too mention if you need to accelerate in a hurry to pass a slower rv/semi/other under powered vehicles, it can be dangerous with faster vehicles gliding up the road.
Thank you for your comments. This reinforces my feelings that the BS base engine should have been the 2.0L and the upgrades engine should have been the 2.3L.
 


chaseAbronco

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I definitely don't know the ins and outs of either engine, nor am a mechanic. I just gotta ask if anyone as consistently driven I-70 outside Denver in the mountains, I say consistently because yes, a 1.5L will do, however when RVs, trailers, and semis are passing one another and you get stuck behind them, it's a chore and not fun accelerating, merging, and passing without a little gusto. Driving behavior can help, keeping speed and momentum in gear will of course keep everything smooth.
 

dreamwrx

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I've never owned or drove a vehicle with the "auto start/Stop technology."

Any opinions? Does this cause an acceleration delay? Is there a way to turn it off?
I'm not 100% sure on this but from what I have read, some people have been able to use FORScan to permanently disable the Auto Start/Stop...
 

Heyzeus

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We went from the 2.4 in the compass to the 1.5 in the BS. The 1.5 is much quicker. A lot of this is the gearing. Put the 1.5 in sport mode and give it some gas. It does not hesitate. The Jeep felt like rubber bands were winding up before it would go. The 1.5 seems plenty good. The 2.0 is a great engine but I would not worry to much about the 1.5.
 

SAcobra427

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Don’t turbos normally do worse in altitude?
Actually all engines do worse at altitude but a turbo will actually have less of a power loss compared to a NA engine all things being equal. Back in World War 2 already many of the fighter planes ended up using turbo chargers in combination with superchargers so the planes would be able to fly higher with out loosing to much power.
 

thesavo

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I'm not 100% sure on this but from what I have read, some people have been able to use FORScan to permanently disable the Auto Start/Stop...
Yes, but that may be with As-built codes. There isn't Always a "preset" for it.

There is a bypass module that usually plugs in line with the disable start/stop switch.
The module for bronco sport plugs in line with the obd connector.
https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/ford
 


McBrideless

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Don’t turbos normally do worse in altitude?
Just the opposite actually. Turbos are almost unaffected by altitude because they are limited by the pressure difference across the pump not the volume flow rate. Modern turbos with lots of sensors are especially immune because they can adjust boost as needed with altitude to ensure the intake pressure is always where it needs to be.
 

McBrideless

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I don’t know whether it actually changes how the engine operates or it just changes the throttle sensitivity, but there is a dramatic power difference between drive modes in the Badlands(2.0). I’m not sure how that difference is achieved, but it’s definitely more than just the start-stop function.
 

tRex

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I'm not a fan of it in my F-150. There is a disable button on the dash but it must be pressed everytime you start the truck. There are some aftermarket devices you can plug in to the OBD port to disable the feature but I haven't tried one. Pretty soon every car will have auto stop start to help meet fuel standards. It's been proven the gas savings/emission reduction is minimal but it will still be forced on us. It has to be harder on the vehicles starter.
Real issues: mfr meeting CAFE standards and advertising better City and Combined EPA numbers, and secondarily, you saving a little bit of fuel. But multiply times millions of vehicles on the road and you get significantly less consumption and emissions -- the real deal behind all of this. Last or first thing -- up to the individual -- is driver annoyance with it. Evidence is though, that idling wastes quite a bit of fuel, between 4% and 8.7% higher consumption overall -- in city driving anyway -- and repeated starts have minimal to no negative effects:
 

tRex

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I've never owned or drove a vehicle with the "auto start/Stop technology."

Any opinions? Does this cause an acceleration delay? Is there a way to turn it off?
It was almost imperceptible from a stop, except for the eerie quiet while waiting to make my turn. Yes, the button on the dash will deactivate it if pushed, but every time you first start up it defaults to ON. It has no effect on normal driving. Maybe if you are attempting a burn-out or launch control-type start from stopped...but as others have mentioned, various vehicle conditions (and Sport mode) will also disable auto start/stop automatically.
 

Zander1ni

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Whether or not an engine is under-powered or not, will depend on several factors.
-Weight of vehicle
-Transmission Gearing
-Axle Gearing
-Tire Size
.... just to name a few.

Also.... for me.... whether or not a vehicle can accelerate at a acceleration factor that I'm comfortable with or not (all of the Vehicle Weight, Gearing & Tires combined) is how I decide if an engine option is or isn't acquitted For Me.

If you're perfectly happy to follow behind a Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain pass, then the 1.5L in the BS will most likely be acceptable to you.

If you don't like to follow behind a Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain pass, then the 1.5L in the BS will most likely not be acceptable for you.

Bottom line (for me) is that the vehicle that I'm driving must be able to Safely pass Slow Moving Vehicle (traveling a less than posted speed limit) as it ascend through a mountain passes (when there are other vehicles that are traveling at or below the posted speed limits passing it). It "should" be able to accelerate (not saying that it's got to "burn rubber", but it should be able to increase the MPH at more than a snail's pace) with a Full Load (max manufacturer rating) as I ascend through a mountain pass.



Thank you for your comments. This reinforces my feelings that the BS base engine should have been the 2.0L and the upgrades engine should have been the 2.3L.
Sorry to say this but the bronco sport 1.5L will go up every mountain pass at speeds in excess of the speed limit. My golf tdi with 136 HP could do that.

also think of it this way I used to drive a bmw 5 series with the 2.8 6 cylinder which made the same power as the sport 1.5 in a heavier car with less gears...nobody ever once complained that they couldn’t go over a mountain pass in an e39 5 series ator above the speed limit.

some of you people on here think you need some massive power for daily driving and highway driving, you really don’t. Unless you drive 15-20MPH over the speed limit and still try to overtake people pushing 100+ mph. If so you have more problems than the engine in a bronco sport and should drive something with real power like a land cruiser or a defender...
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