The Badlands Oil Change Experience

[sajohnson]

Yesterday, I changed the oil in our Badlands. It was the 3rd time I've done it so it was a little easier, but not by much.

Some notes for general information:

* Oil filter: When removing the filter it leaks oil as soon as the gasket is no longer in contact with the mating surface. This isn't too bad if you're aware of it and have the drain pan under it. Once the oil stops leaking out you can remove the filter, but as soon as it's free, more oil comes gushing out. Forum members have mentioned using a plastic bag around the filter to catch the oil. I haven't tried that but apparently it works well.

* Draining the oil: It's straight forward, but keep in mind that when the plug is removed the oil will initially shoot out toward the front. As the rate of flow decreases the stream of oil will move backward toward the drain hole and then end up flowing toward the rear of the BS. A typical 5/6 quart drain pan must be moved from front to back to catch the oil. I found that if carefully positioned, a large 15 qt. pan does not have to be moved. Unfortunately, I did not have mine positioned quite right and when I wasn't looking the stream of oil moved backward beyond the pan and there were a few ounces on the blacktop. Sawdust picked it up.

* Skid/bash plate: R&R is no problem, the 2 bolts in slots really help. There can be dirt on top of the plate so protect your eyes. The problem I've run into is getting the 4 speed nuts (for the screws that retain the plastic) into position. What I've been doing is installing the skid plate bolts first but leaving them loose so the plate can slide. Even then, getting those screws started is tight.

This oil change only cost $24 -- but it is more work than usual.

I hear there are actually places that will change the oil for a fee, while you wait -- but what fun would that be?

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[Mark S.]

Forum members have mentioned using a plastic bag around the filter to catch the oil. I haven't tried that but apparently it works well.

You can also try punching a couple of holes in the bottom of the filter, one near the outside and one near the middle. After punching the holes turn the filter enough to break the seal. Most of the oil in the filter will drain out of the holes you punched.

 

[Glamdring70]

I've done the hole punch method before and it's a different experience, but also unenjoyable.

They actually make a tool for this. It's called the "Oil Udder". Because of course it is.

 

[Quashish]

only changed the oil once in our badlands so far, had no issues, just like any other oil change except for a few bolts to remove the skid plate. I don't understand why ford put the drain plug facing forward. but I still didn't splash any oil out of the pan.

I usually let the pan drain while I do something else, come back clean up around the pan with a rag and put the plug in hand tight. then remove the filter and set it on my collection tray, and let it drain what its got as it catches whatever flows out of the filter area. clean up the filter mating surface and threads, spin on new filter. go back to drain plug which by now has probably pooled up a little more oil. clean up after make sure everything is tight and fill it up.

this is the oil collection pan I have been using for years. never leaves a mess. made by flo tool

 

[sajohnson]

only changed the oil once in our badlands so far, had no issues, just like any other oil change except for a few bolts to remove the skid plate. I don't understand why ford put the drain plug facing forward. but I still didn't splash any oil out of the pan.

I usually let the pan drain while I do something else, come back clean up around the pan with a rag and put the plug in hand tight. then remove the filter and set it on my collection tray, and let it drain what its got as it catches whatever flows out of the filter area. clean up the filter mating surface and threads, spin on new filter. go back to drain plug which by now has probably pooled up a little more oil. clean up after make sure everything is tight and fill it up.

this is the oil collection pan I have been using for years. never leaves a mess. made by flo tool

That's identical to the one I use which I referred to as 'a large 15 qt. pan.' I originally bought it for our Sprinter-based RV. The V6 turbo diesel takes ~13 quarts.

The diameter is large enough that if it is positioned just right it will not have to be moved -- it will catch all of the oil, from the initial flow toward the front, to the final bit that flows backward toward the rear.

That worked well for the first 2 oil changes. This time there was some brain fade/operator error. I had the pan positioned to catch the initial flow of oil, but had it a bit too far forward. Then I let the oil drain while I did a quick brake job and tire rotation...

Anyway, even with the 15 qt. pan, it's best to just keep an eye on it and slide it back once or twice.

Something that would avoid the issue is a Fumoto drain valve. https://www.fumotousa.com/ I've never used one but they get generally good reviews. In the past, we had 2 vehicles that were each driven 20-25K miles/year so I was doing oil changes regularly. I considered the Fumoto valve back then but never bought one because the stream of oil stayed within a small area. With the Badlands a Fumoto would be helpful, but in our case the oil is changed just once a year so I haven't bought one.

 

[sajohnson]

BTW -- does anyone have the torque specs for the bolts and the drain plug?

 

[RSH]

I dont want to crawl under vehicles anymore unless absolutely necessary. If I had a lift it would be a different story.
My Badlands is dealer serviced, I can usually find a coupon or use FordPass points so the cost is typically little to nothing.
So far for the number of times I've been to the dealer my Badlands has always been in my line of sight for service. I have not seen anything out of the ordinary going on which is how it should be. Anyway, it works for me.

 

[sajohnson]

I dont want to crawl under vehicles anymore unless absolutely necessary. If I had a lift it would be a different story.
My Badlands is dealer serviced, I can usually find a coupon or use FordPass points so the cost is typically little to nothing.
So far for the number of times I've been to the dealer my Badlands has always been in my line of sight for service. I have not seen anything out of the ordinary going on which is how it should be. Anyway, it works for me.

That makes sense.

I'll be 64 in July. There's a limit to how many more oil changes I have in me. For now though, I prefer to continue to do them myself.

I actually have a nice 2-post lift. The problem is, that's the only space the RV will fit into. It's a bit of a PITA to pull the RV out and back in because a) it's very tight -- maybe 2" clearance on either side of the door opening, and b) the garage is built into the 'mountain'. The doors face west, which is the downhill slope. The lane runs north/south. Back out too far and you go over a 4' stone retaining wall and down into the woods! IOW, it's not the normal straight shot at the garage door -- some careful and relatively precise maneuvering is involved.

So it's actually easier to jack up the Badlands so there's plenty of room underneath, support it on stands, and break out my trusty super-slick piece of cardboard to lay on.

Even if the RV was not in the garage I might not use the lift because I don't have one of those waste oil drain tanks that shops use. If I continue to use the ordinary 15 qt. drain pan, I could not raise the Badlands up very far -- I'd still be sliding around on cardboard.

Since our oil changes are only once per year, and moving the RV is not easy, I'll probably keep doing them ye olde fashioned way. If we were driving as much as we used to and I was changing the oil every couple months I'd probably consider building a separate shelter for the RV and buying a waste oil drain tank.

 

[Me3]

I dont want to crawl under vehicles anymore unless absolutely necessary. If I had a lift it would be a different story.
My Badlands is dealer serviced, I can usually find a coupon or use FordPass points so the cost is typically little to nothing.
So far for the number of times I've been to the dealer my Badlands has always been in my line of sight for service. I have not seen anything out of the ordinary going on which is how it should be. Anyway, it works for me.

Hi, where do you find those coupons? I’d love to have one for my upcoming oil change.

Thanks

 

[Dude]

You can find Ford oil change coupons online by searching specific dealerships in your area. I found that the Ford website (like ford.com under the service links) says it has coupons but really doesn’t. So I search each dealership website under their service department webpages.

(Also I now I get coupons in the mail from 2 dealerships and also from Ford corporate)

Finally, call the dealerships in your area and ask if they offer oil change packages. For example, several dealerships in my area charge anywhere from $110 to $145 for The Works using full synthetic. But if I ask if they have a package of 3 or whatever, I was able to get 3 for $155 so about 3 of The Works for about $52 each (full synthetic).

Some dealerships want the service business so are aggressive on pricing.

I know that won’t last forever.

 

[Me3]

You can find Ford oil change coupons online by searching specific dealerships in your area. I found that the Ford website (like ford.com under the service links) says it has coupons but really doesn’t. So I search each dealership website under their service department webpages.

(Also I now I get coupons in the mail from 2 dealerships and also from Ford corporate)

Finally, call the dealerships in your area and ask if they offer oil change packages. For example, several dealerships in my area charge anywhere from $110 to $145 for The Works using full synthetic. But if I ask if they have a package of 3 or whatever, I was able to get 3 for $155 so about 3 of The Works for about $52 each (full synthetic).

Some dealerships want the service business so are aggressive on pricing.

I know that won’t last forever.

Cool! Thanks Dude. I’ll look into this.

 

[AC AL]

Yesterday, I changed the oil in our Badlands. It was the 3rd time I've done it so it was a little easier, but not by much.

Some notes for general information:

* Oil filter: When removing the filter it leaks oil as soon as the gasket is no longer in contact with the mating surface. This isn't too bad if you're aware of it and have the drain pan under it. Once the oil stops leaking out you can remove the filter, but as soon as it's free, more oil comes gushing out. Forum members have mentioned using a plastic bag around the filter to catch the oil. I haven't tried that but apparently it works well.

* Draining the oil: It's straight forward, but keep in mind that when the plug is removed the oil will initially shoot out toward the front. As the rate of flow decreases the stream of oil will move backward toward the drain hole and then end up flowing toward the rear of the BS. A typical 5/6 quart drain pan must be moved from front to back to catch the oil. I found that if carefully positioned, a large 15 qt. pan does not have to be moved. Unfortunately, I did not have mine positioned quite right and when I wasn't looking the stream of oil moved backward beyond the pan and there were a few ounces on the blacktop. Sawdust picked it up.

* Skid/bash plate: R&R is no problem, the 2 bolts in slots really help. There can be dirt on top of the plate so protect your eyes. The problem I've run into is getting the 4 speed nuts (for the screws that retain the plastic) into position. What I've been doing is installing the skid plate bolts first but leaving them loose so the plate can slide. Even then, getting those screws started is tight.

This oil change only cost $24 -- but it is more work than usual.

I hear there are actually places that will change the oil for a fee, while you wait -- but what fun would that be?

One thing I can’t figure out is why ford put the drain in the front of the pan. When you jack the front end up a large amount of oil goes to the back of the pan. To drain all the oil you have to either let the front end down or jack the back of the car up. It appears it’s designed for someone with a hoist like the dealer. This is on a badlands 2.0

 

[sajohnson]

One thing I can’t figure out is why ford put the drain in the front of the pan. When you jack the front end up a large amount of oil goes to the back of the pan. To drain all the oil you have to either let the front end down or jack the back of the car up. It appears it’s designed for someone with a hoist like the dealer. This is on a badlands 2.0

Great observation!

I've wondered the same thing. A cynical person might suspect that the drain plug placement and the issues I mentioned are intentional, to encourage owners to go to the dealer. I doubt that's the case, but of all the cars I've worked on in 50 years the oil change on the BS BL is the most difficult.

Don't get me wrong, it's not that bad. None of what I mentioned is a big deal, just when compared to other vehicles it's bit more challenging.

On the plug placement and the oil remaining in the pan, I'm the type who lets the oil drain long enough that there's barely a drip. It bugs me that there's some dirty oil left in the pan, but it can't be more than a few ounces.

 

[Mark S.]

When you jack the front end up a large amount of oil goes to the back of the pan.

Please define "a large amount." Have you measured it?

 

[AC AL]

I didn’t measure the amount. I did see the amount of oil that drained out while lowering the front of the car off the jack stands. I didn’t really care about the amount I just knew it was more than I wan to leave in. I do jack the front end up a decent amount for ease of removing and installing the metal skid pan

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