What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today?

[Tigger]

If you want to go fast, buy a fast car or a slow motorcycle. If you want to go real fast, buy a fast motorcycle.

That’s my pedal hesitation summary.

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[Meanderthal]

I’m honestly open to being moved by the information. I value your opinion. I respect where you are coming from enough to watch the video you posted. I just think that you are making some major leaps that don’t align with the video’s description as to why K&N is so effective.

you are trying to argue that a turbo functions like a vacuum, and the K&N is ineffective in a vacuum environment. I think you discard the fact that the engine does create the very vibration that makes the K&N superior in the first place, despite the “vacuum” function of a turbo. It does sound like a turbo in a controlled environment (ie, one without the engine) would render the K&N less efficient. But the fact is, the engine and its vibration exists. And that is the fundamental condition that makes the K&N filter superior to paper filters.

you’ve basically posted a video that goes into great length making a compelling argument from “the” authority on the topic that the K&N is a superior filter if used on a car with an engine. But then you point to what you call an inference that I don’t believe exists as a key point in your argument that a high quality paper filter is better. I really don’t mean disrespect, but you are saying that 1+1 = 5 with no dots to connect to get there.

I’m open to a good discussion, and I’m open to learning something. But I don’t like flawed logic or fallacies, and so I hope nobody reads this thread and is moved to think K&N are not superior air filters….based on anything presented here so far.

I think the flaw in your logic is that you are assuming physical engine vibration is what makes the K&N work, but that is not the case. What he describes as the fibers moving while the engine is running is caused by the individual cylinders pulling in air, which happens in pulses of vacuum pressure. With a turbo, the wheel/fan of the turbo is pulling in air more or less constantly like a vacuum cleaner. The individual cylinders are fed by the pressure in the intake created by the turbo.

So, the turbo creates a relatively stable low pressure (vacuum) in the intake between the filter and the turbo inlet. That low pressure does vary with engine speed and load, but it does not pulse like a naturally aspirated engine does.

The video presents the argument that the way Project Farm did the test does not represent the reality of a running engine. He doesn't actually address how a turbo would affect it. I apologize for posting that without watching it again. I do believe this is really a 2 + 2 = 4 thing, but you do have to realize that an engine with a turbo does not have the intake pulses of a naturally aspirated engine.

The paper filter is just something that I have used and know works well. It has much more surface area than a typical panel filter and can be used with a round tube intake pipe like you have with the K&N. That paper filter will also last for years instead of the year or less from typical paper panel filters.

Hopefully I have explained the "vibration" thing well enough that we can move past that now.

 

[Meanderthal]

Common sense tells me the only way to increase air flow is to reduce filtration efficiency, which is what I see from the testing at the link I provided.

The way to increase airflow without reducing filtering efficiency is to add filter area.

 

[Mark S.]

The way to increase airflow without reducing filtering efficiency is to add filter area.

Of course. I should have added “all else being equal.”

 

[delm]

I think the flaw in your logic is that you are assuming physical engine vibration is what makes the K&N work, but that is not the case. What he describes as the fibers moving while the engine is running is caused by the individual cylinders pulling in air, which happens in pulses of vacuum pressure. With a turbo, the wheel/fan of the turbo is pulling in air more or less constantly like a vacuum cleaner. The individual cylinders are fed by the pressure in the intake created by the turbo.

So, the turbo creates a relatively stable low pressure (vacuum) in the intake between the filter and the turbo inlet. That low pressure does vary with engine speed and load, but it does not pulse like a naturally aspirated engine does.

The video presents the argument that the way Project Farm did the test does not represent the reality of a running engine. He doesn't actually address how a turbo would affect it. I apologize for posting that without watching it again. I do believe this is really a 2 + 2 = 4 thing, but you do have to realize that an engine with a turbo does not have the intake pulses of a naturally aspirated engine.

The paper filter is just something that I have used and know works well. It has much more surface area than a typical panel filter and can be used with a round tube intake pipe like you have with the K&N. That paper filter will also last for years instead of the year or less from typical paper panel filters.

Hopefully I have explained the "vibration" thing well enough that we can move past that now.

We can definitely put that one to rest.

 

[Jasonj7858]

Well did a few things to my Badlands...

Added carbon fiber letter covers, front and back...got new Venom 245/70 17 tires to still put on...some knob covers, and a rear hitch tire carrier.

 

[Winds of Change]

I got it all full of sand.

 

[R0BIZZLE]

Took a picture next to some Apache scraps while at work! ??

 

[GulfCoastBronco]

Windshield replaced. Glass company on the back of the property I work. His supplier has the one I need in stock and glass plus install was $150 less what my dealership quote on just glass.
FYI!! According to this individual calibration of sensors is not required unless sensors are replaced or removed/reset. He said safelite and others will charge calibration to get more money.
happy to get my new windshield at a far price. He also put my power cord from light bar back in with RTV just because he was already working there.

 

[Glamdring70]

According to this individual calibration of sensors is not required unless sensors are replaced or removed/reset.

If it is 100% an OEM piece of glass, then this could be possible if they put it back in right. Aftermarket glass might be a different thickness, transmission or curvature that messes with those systems. I wouldn't take that chance myself but he might be right.

 

[GulfCoastBronco]

If it is 100% an OEM piece of glass, then this could be possible if they put it back in right. Aftermarket glass might be a different thickness, transmission or curvature that messes with those systems. I wouldn't take that chance myself but he might be right.

I was concerned of course. Another buddy of mine said dash lights would indicate to me some sort of fault or failure. Which also made sense. So far so good. If anything changes I give permission for you to say, told you so. ?

 

[Mark S.]

I was concerned of course. Another buddy of mine said dash lights would indicate to me some sort of fault or failure. Which also made sense. So far so good. If anything changes I give permission for you to say, told you so. ?

If your car is equipped with 360+ its operation is dependent on accurate data from the camera in the cluster at the top of the windshield. If you rely on lane centering and/or adaptive cruise control you might consider closely monitoring their operation for a time to ensure they are working properly.

 

[Glamdring70]

If your car is equipped with 360+ its operation is dependent on accurate data from the camera in the cluster at the top of the windshield. If you rely on lane centering and/or adaptive cruise control you might consider closely monitoring their operation for a time to ensure they are working properly.

Agree. More to my thinking is "insurance is paying anyhow". It doesn't matter if you claim $250 or $750. They'll still ream the ever-loving ? out of you on the renewal. I would just get all of the recommended steps done.

I may not be objective though. I did buy an extended warranty. I like peace of mind.

 

[NEFKANO]

Agree. More to my thinking is "insurance is paying anyhow". It doesn't matter if you claim $250 or $750. They'll still ream the ever-loving ? out of you on the renewal. I would just get all of the recommended steps done.

I may not be objective though. I did buy an extended warranty. I like peace of mind.

Funny... with all the strong winds in my area last few weeks and the fact that I've heard these BS windshields are pricey AND that I have a sunroof... I'm considering adding "0" deductible glass coverage on my car insurance... adds another $25 a month, ugh

Or maybe I go lower comprehensive from $499 to "$249 which also covers glass issues... ugh they get you coming and going.... This is with Progressive FYI

 

[Idahobro]

With a turbo, the wheel/fan of the turbo is pulling in air more or less constantly like a vacuum cleaner.

I'm probably under educated here, but isn't the turbo pushing air and having air pushed to it. My understanding is that a turbo is a passive device so it can't "pull" air, unless it is a procharger hooked up to the accessory drive?

Really just asking as the above is my understanding. Looking forward to the education if I am wrong.

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