New oil drain plug is available -- Ronin oil drain plug

[sajohnson]

I changed my oil to and installed my Ronin oil plug after I removed the original yellow plastic oil plug and got a serious mess. Yes Ronin is a godsend in my eyes because now I don't have to worry about the big mess I used to always get. I love my Bronco Sport and this will be one more reason to love it. No more of what you see in the pictures! Hell yes it is a godsend for a hands on guy like me!

How did the spill happen?

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[Bucko]

How did the spill happen?

Me too wondering.....

 

[jkeaton]

Gonna make the greenies mad with that one......

 

[mwangarch]

It's called the Ronin oil drain plug. It's an upgrade for Ford vehicles with the yellow plastic drain plug. If you change your own oil this will be a godsend. It's kind of expensive at $60 but it was a no brainer for me.

If only they made a top access oil filter like on the F-150!

 

[BigBadWolf]

The oil drain pan could not keep up with the amount of oil that came out when I removed the yellow @#$_& drain plug. I've changed my own oil since I got my Bronco Sport and messes like this was the norm.

 

[sajohnson]

The oil drain pan could not keep up with the amount of oil that came out when I removed the yellow @#$_& drain plug. I've changed my own oil since I got my Bronco Sport and messes like this was the norm.

The 2.0L is the same way. It has the typical steel drain plug, and when it is removed, the oil shoots out a pretty good distance toward the front. It's always a bit of a guessing game determining when you're at the last thread before the plug comes loose.

Then, as the flow of oil slows, the arc gets smaller (closer to draining straight down) and it ends up going backwards a bit -- so I slide the pan back as it drains.

Then of course more oil comes out when the oil filter is removed...

I've been using a drain pan similar to yours, but it is round and holds 15 quarts -- like this:

It's pretty large diameter (compared to a typical drain pan) which makes placement not so critical. So far, I've been able to avoid any spills.

If the Ronin doesn't work out, Fumoto makes compatible drain valves that you might consider.

 

[Major Kong]

The 2.0L is the same way. It has the typical steel drain plug, and when it is removed, the oil shoots out a pretty good distance toward the front. It's always a bit of a guessing game determining when you're at the last thread before the plug comes loose.

Then, as the flow of oil slows, the arc gets smaller (closer to draining straight down) and it ends up going backwards a bit -- so I slide the pan back as it drains.

Then of course more oil comes out when the oil filter is removed...

I've been using a drain pan similar to yours, but it is round and holds 15 quarts -- like this:

It's pretty large diameter (compared to a typical drain pan) which makes placement not so critical. So far, I've been able to avoid any spills.

If the Ronin doesn't work out, Fumoto makes compatible drain valves that you might consider.

diminishing flow arc is the key
have been using rectangular dishwashing tub (dedicated for garage use)
set up length wise to collect waste oil
no need to compensate for flow decrease
funnel waste oil back into emptied oil container(s)
clean plastic tub and funnel for next use
return used oil to redemption center
psychological or real
engines always feel better with the "new oil feel"

 

[Mark S.]

I've been using a drain pan similar to yours, but it is round and holds 15 quarts -- like this:

This, and a large piece of cardboard under it. The pan catches the flood; the cardboard catches the splashes.

Then of course more oil comes out when the oil filter is removed...

Loosen the filter enough you can turn it by hand but not enough to start leaking. Insert a quart-sized baggie around the filter, then turn it out the rest of the way. The oil from the filter goes in the baggie.

 

[Tigger]

After reading this thread and looking at pictures, I’m glad I do with this vehicle what I have done for 40 years, take it to the dealership, sip coffee, drive away.

 

[Dude]

After reading this thread and looking at pictures, I’m glad I do with this vehicle what I have done for 40 years, take it to the dealership, sip coffee, drive away.

I agree. Usually I can take a 3-4 mile walk to get coffee but last weeks The Works only took 55 minutes and they even set the tire pressure this time. Although it came with bad news .. one of the Pirelli Scorpion OE tires is 3/32” at 25k miles. Still got in a 3.5 mile walk.

 

[sajohnson]

diminishing flow arc is the key
have been using rectangular dishwashing tub (dedicated for garage use)
set up length wise to collect waste oil
no need to compensate for flow decrease
funnel waste oil back into emptied oil container(s)
clean plastic tub and funnel for next use
return used oil to redemption center
psychological or real
engines always feel better with the "new oil feel"

B-b-b-but -- if you clean the tub thoroughly after each oil change it can pull double duty in the kitchen.

I like your method.

I have the 15 quart pan mentioned above, plus a couple smaller drain pans (the common type):

They hold ~6 quarts which is/was fine for our previous vehicles that all took 4 quarts of oil, but really isn't enough capacity for the BS BL. I might not have to move the 15 qt. pan if it is positioned right, but I didn't want to chance it. The small amount of oil that drains backwards would not exactly create a Super Fund site if it spilled, but I waited until the initial surge had slowed (<1 min.) and slid the pan back so I could walk away and let it finish draining.

I have a lift, but a) we have our RV parked in that spot (it's a bit of a production to move it), and b) it's easy enough to just throw down a piece of cardboard and do oil changes outside. Another issue is, even if the lift bay was open, it's kind of a PITA to get vehicles positioned properly and get the lift arms adjusted correctly -- especially shorter wheelbase vehicles. With the '97 RAV4 I have to swing one set of arms under it, then roll it a bit, then position the other pair of arms. I haven't tried with the Badlands yet. Its wheelbase is 10" longer then the RAV (~105 vs 95") so it should be easier.

Finally, in order to be able to stand and do the job, one of these is required:

Before we retired, we were both driving a lot so I was doing multiple oil changes every year. Back then it might have made sense to have a unit like that, but now that I'm just changing the oil in the Badlands yearly it's not worth it.

I have three 5 gallon plastic jugs, similar to what fry oil comes in, that I use to hold the old oil. When recycling the oil I put each jug in a trash can, just in case. I have a Curt hitch mounted cargo carrier that should work well to haul them -- you know, 10 years from now when they are all full...

Or, as Tigger pointed out, I could just take it to a shop and sip coffee but where's the challenge in that?

 

[sajohnson]

After reading this thread and looking at pictures, I’m glad I do with this vehicle what I have done for 40 years, take it to the dealership, sip coffee, drive away.

What?! You don't want to cut off your nose to spite your face? Bust your knuckles, get covered in carcinogenic used motor oil, do the clean-up, and haul the old oil to a far-away recycling center? Where's your sense of adventure?

I've been working on cars since the 1970s, so doing oil changes is second nature -- but I can absolutely understand why many people chose to go to a shop -- there are a lot of pluses to going that route.

In my case, in addition to my shade tree mechanic background, I find it actually less time-consuming -- not to mention cheaper -- to change the oil here at home.

Less time consuming because, while we don't live in the sticks, it takes a while to drive r/t to a shop, and even more time to wait for the job to get done. The Jiffy Lube type places are apparently pretty quick, but I would not take a vehicle there.

Less expensive, because the cost of 100% synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter can be <$25. Of course, if I include the value of my time, the cost is higher.

Finally, since we live in Maryland and not Iowa (like most of our family members) there is a deficit of honest, friendly people. There is a significant chance that the experience at the shop -- especially at a dealership -- will be less than positive.

That's my reasoning, but I may change my mind as I get older.

 

[sajohnson]

This, and a large piece of cardboard under it. The pan catches the flood; the cardboard catches the splashes.


Loosen the filter enough you can turn it by hand but not enough to start leaking. Insert a quart-sized baggie around the filter, then turn it out the rest of the way. The oil from the filter goes in the baggie.

That sounds good.

I've found spills are pretty rare. If some oil does got onto the lane I use sawdust to absorb it, then sweep in up and throw it away.

I read about the plastic bag trick before -- that's a good idea. I may try it. For now, what I've done is crack the filter loose just enough for the oil to drain out and drip into the pan. Then wipe the oil off of the filter with paper towel.

If I was throwing the filters away, I wouldn't bother to clean them, but I'm in the habit of saving them -- just in case the dealer attempts to deny warranty coverage by claiming the oil changes were not done. That's unlikely, but it's no big deal to put the used filter in the box and mark it with the date and miles. Cheap/free insurance.

 

[Bill G]

Did almost all my vehicle maintenance back in the sixties, but quit when I could no longer dispose of oil, etc in my back forty “dump” (don’t ask, it would offend many). Now, at 75, I’ve joined the “take a walk and have coffee” crowd . . . my local Ford dealer has been pretty good and honest to date.

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