What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today?

davidb1841

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To me it’s “Better to be Safe than Sorry” haven’t got to many miles on this one, only about 300, but my BigBend that I traded in with 16000 thousand miles I got maybe 2 tablespoons worth of oil in those 16000 thousand miles, I just don’t like the idea of returning that oil back into the pan. I want this engine to last between 150000 thousand to 200000 hundred thousand , so call me a little anal or ocd. It’s one of those “Damn if you do Damn if ya don’t. I believe in being proactive not reactive. Besides it gives me something to do. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Just like I did to my BigBend, I’ll change my oil at 500 miles then again at a 1000, then I will change it every 5000 thousand with full synthetic. Good Luck in whatever you decide, I’m not an engineer but I think there is no “wrong” answer.
I am in total agreement on the full synthetic every 5k miles......
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davidb1841

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Love the Velocity Blue...(My Tremor is Velocity Blue)
 

davidg4781

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I finally received my license plates so I installed them. I also cleaned up the corner of my windshield to put on my registration sticker.

Boring, I know.

OH! I took a couple of coworkers to lunch. So I'm coming from a 2006 Accord. Great car. But man was it ugly. And the headliner was falling sagging. So when I would get invited for lunch I either declined or tried to go with them. They said "Let's go in your new car" and I said alright, where to?

My first payment hasn't hit so I guess I can still go out to eat.
 

Bucko

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To me it’s “Better to be Safe than Sorry” haven’t got to many miles on this one, only about 300, but my BigBend that I traded in with 16000 thousand miles I got maybe 2 tablespoons worth of oil in those 16000 thousand miles, I just don’t like the idea of returning that oil back into the pan. I want this engine to last between 150000 thousand to 200000 hundred thousand , so call me a little anal or ocd. It’s one of those “Damn if you do Damn if ya don’t. I believe in being proactive not reactive. Besides it gives me something to do. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Just like I did to my BigBend, I’ll change my oil at 500 miles then again at a 1000, then I will change it every 5000 thousand with full synthetic. Good Luck in whatever you decide, I’m not an engineer but I think there is no “wrong” answer.
The separator captures oil mist that is routed to the MAF, and then burned off by the engine combustion cycle. It does not go back into the oil pan. This oil mist over time can collect on the butterfly valve of the MAF (air intake), and collect on the intake valves. This can reduce fuel mileage and poor performance over time. Grades of gasoline or purchasing fuel additives can help in keeping the MAF and valves clean, plus the use of an oil separator.

All internal combustion engines require the crankcase to "breathe". In the past, the crankcase fumes/oil mist was sent via the PCV valve to the intake to be burned off by engine combustion. Earlier days (50's and early 60's), crankcase fumes/oil mist was simply sent via a ventilation tube and out to the atmosphere. I had a 50's Chevy pickup with a Small block V8 that did this. It was a pollution issue.

The issues with catch cans is that you need to make sure the connections are tight and do not leak. Check from time to time to verify the O rings are not allowing any leakage at their fittings where they snap onto the plastic nipples. And empty and clean out the catch can routinely. As an engine gets older with mileage, it will produce more blowby past its piston oil and compression rings, creating more oil mist that is routed back to the air intake system to be burned off. The catch can captures a good amount of this blow by oil mist.

I've used them in two other vehicles I owned. One was a 2017 Mustang Boss. After 30,000 mikes, I would see about 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil in the catch can. I drove that monster hard! Nice to know I was not dumping all that oil mist back through the MAF and into the cylinders to coat the intake valves.
They don't catch all blowby, but a good amount of it.

I don't sell them, nor have any stock with them, I just use them.
 
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Mark S.

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This oil mist over time can collect on the butterfly valve of the MAF (air intake), and collect on the intake valves. This can reduce fuel mileage and poor performance over time.
Ford (all manufacturers, really) has been aware of carbon fouling of intake valves since manufacturers started producing direct-injection engines. All of Ford's EcoBoost engines incorporate an air/oil separator to limit the amount of crankcase oil in the PCV system going past the intake valves. A big part of the new API SN oil standard is to limit volatility (a liquid's propensity to evaporate), which has gone far toward eliminating the carbon fouling issue for most manufacturers. Ford has also modified fuel injection and valve timing overlap to get some fuel back into the intake tract for valve detergent purposes. We've owned EcoBoost equipped cars for 8 years, putting 140+ miles on two different vehicles. We've never had a problem with valve contamination.

I think if you use top tier gas, the proper oil, and observe the recommended maintenance schedule the factory air/oil separator is adequate for preventing valve contamination. Some say installing a catch can is "cheap insurance," but it also adds to your maintenance work, and the additional components you install can fail/malfunction. I'll pass.

BTW, the 1.5L is both direct and port injected, so carbon fouling with that engine is even more unlikely.
 

Bucko

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Ford (all manufacturers, really) has been aware of carbon fouling of intake valves since manufacturers started producing direct-injection engines. All of Ford's EcoBoost engines incorporate an air/oil separator to limit the amount of crankcase oil in the PCV system going past the intake valves. A big part of the new API SN oil standard is to limit volatility (a liquid's propensity to evaporate), which has gone far toward eliminating the carbon fouling issue for most manufacturers. Ford has also modified fuel injection and valve timing overlap to get some fuel back into the intake tract for valve detergent purposes. We've owned EcoBoost equipped cars for 8 years, putting 140+ miles on two different vehicles. We've never had a problem with valve contamination.

I think if you use top tier gas, the proper oil, and observe the recommended maintenance schedule the factory air/oil separator is adequate for preventing valve contamination. Some say installing a catch can is "cheap insurance," but it also adds to your maintenance work, and the additional components you install can fail/malfunction. I'll pass.

BTW, the 1.5L is both direct and port injected, so carbon fouling with that engine is even more unlikely.
So, where will I find this factory air/oil separator? Or is it some sort of internal baffle/assembly?
 

Bucko

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I don't know; I don't own a 1.5L. I just know it has one because it was the subject of a recall.
Found it. The video on post #2 identifies it at 2 minutes 33 seconds, but additional posts say it's on the left side. Read post #5 and #6 as it is up to your perspective of left and right of the engine. I always use (which is correct) the perspective of sitting in the drivers seat (U.S. models!).

In picture below, it is the black container of sorts that has the hose with the blue locking ring attached to it.

And to JAD67428 , I owe you an apology, as it just might be that the factory oil separator is routing its captured oil mist back to the engine/oil pan. I'm going to verify this tonight on my 1.5. In any event, since the oil separators sold for the 1.5 attach in front of this OEM unit, They will capture oil mist prior to the OEM, kinda like having two. I will monitor mine to see how much the aftermarket captures and report in on it. After watching countless video's on the subject, the ones that are good are the ones that truly separate the oil. They will have a screen or steel filter to suspend the oil mist until its heavy enough to drop down into a container. It's important to do maintenance in the way of emptying this container; don't just leave it there and drive on without checking and emptying it. Supercharged or turbocharged (forced induction) can benefit with an oil separator, so I was glad to see that Ford installed one in the first place. I'm just not to keen on the idea that it drains back into the engine/oil pan. I'm guessing however that it won't contaminate the oil within using regular oil changes, so I do not have to loose sleep over it.

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/bronco-sport-oil-separator-recall-1-5-l-engine.5578/

Ford Bronco Sport What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today? 1682001024786
 
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Mark S.

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I'm just not to keen on the idea that it drains back into the engine/oil pan. I'm guessing however that it won't contaminate the oil within using regular oil changes, so I do not have to loose sleep over it.
Oil contamination is part of the reason we change the oil. How much contamination the oil can safely hold in suspension is part of the torture testing Ford conducts for all new designs. If you follow the recommended change interval the oil will never become contaminated enough to harm the engine. Best of all, you remove the contamination when you drain oil; no need to empty a catch can to get rid of it.

The fact that many have discovered their oil capacity has been bumped to 6.6 qts should provide even more peace of mind. 6.6 qts of oil can hold A LOT of crap in suspension.
 


Bucko

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Oil contamination is part of the reason we change the oil. How much contamination the oil can safely hold in suspension is part of the torture testing Ford conducts for all new designs. If you follow the recommended change interval the oil will never become contaminated enough to harm the engine. Best of all, you remove the contamination when you drain oil; no need to empty a catch can to get rid of it.

The fact that many have discovered their oil capacity has been bumped to 6.6 qts should provide even more peace of mind. 6.6 qts of oil can hold A LOT of crap in suspension.
We agree on this; I did learn from all this on what the difference is between a catch can and an oil separator. For just awhile, I will keep the non OEM oil separator installed (in series with the OEM) just to get an idea of how much oil mist comes from the 1.5's crankcase in a months time frame. Then I'll remove it and put the OEM line back on to use just the OEM oil separator.
 

missOutsyder

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I added the Bronco wording, black on black. To both sides of course
Ford Bronco Sport What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today? IMG_3723

Ford Bronco Sport What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today? IMG_3724
 

missOutsyder

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Robins21

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My wife wanted the nudge bar for her Sport, so I had gotten one for her & we were waiting for a good couple days & yesterday was 82°, sunny & breezy. We started at about 11:00 & were finished & put away the tools by 3:30. Here she is with the grille/headlight/bumper assembly off.
Ford Bronco Sport What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today? 100_2062

All back together.
Ford Bronco Sport What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today? 100_2063.JPG

I had to get a front license plate bracket for it since Virginia requires a front plate & the center bar runs right where the plate bracket was. I bent the 2 center light tabs flat & attached the plate bracket to them. I still have the 2 outer tabs if my wife decides she needs extra lights.
 
 







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