What did you do TO your Bronco Sport today?

[Winds of Change]

Added a little flair to Juice today. Got the obligatory fender script badges and horsey on the tailgate. Also replaced the valve stem covers thanks to the idea from another forum member. Going by local Ford dealer tomorrow to order a Aeroskin II.

Those valve caps can corrode and be difficult to remove fyi. I saw it happen.

 

[Tigger]

Those valve caps can corrode and be difficult to remove fyi. I saw it happen.

These are the plastic ones. I think the issues are with the metal ones.

 

[Winds of Change]

These are the plastic ones. I think the issues are with the metal ones.

I did not know there were plastic caps with designs.

 

[Tigger]

I did not know there were plastic caps with designs.

Ford Bronco Black ABS Plastic Tire Valve Stem Cap Covers (Pack of 5) https://a.co/d/gL3s1uV

As you can see here, you have a plastic or chrome option. The chrome ones suck and get stuck.

 

[Winds of Change]

Ford Bronco Black ABS Plastic Tire Valve Stem Cap Covers (Pack of 5) https://a.co/d/gL3s1uV

As you can see here, you have a plastic or chrome option. The chrome ones suck and get stuck.

$17.95 wait I need a few more cocktails first.

 

[Deleted member 6350]

I have heard 2 different things on these oil separaters. If there is oil collecting there is something else going on? Whats the story?

To me it’s “Better to be Safe than Sorry” haven’t got to many miles on this one, only about 300, but my BigBend that I traded in with 16000 thousand miles I got maybe 2 tablespoons worth of oil in those 16000 thousand miles, I just don’t like the idea of returning that oil back into the pan. I want this engine to last between 150000 thousand to 200000 hundred thousand , so call me a little anal or ocd. It’s one of those “Damn if you do Damn if ya don’t. I believe in being proactive not reactive. Besides it gives me something to do. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Just like I did to my BigBend, I’ll change my oil at 500 miles then again at a 1000, then I will change it every 5000 thousand with full synthetic. Good Luck in whatever you decide, I’m not an engineer but I think there is no “wrong” answer.

 

[Deleted member 6350]

$17.95 wait I need a few more cocktails first.

Use “GAIN15” for 15% off

 

[davidb1841]

To me it’s “Better to be Safe than Sorry” haven’t got to many miles on this one, only about 300, but my BigBend that I traded in with 16000 thousand miles I got maybe 2 tablespoons worth of oil in those 16000 thousand miles, I just don’t like the idea of returning that oil back into the pan. I want this engine to last between 150000 thousand to 200000 hundred thousand , so call me a little anal or ocd. It’s one of those “Damn if you do Damn if ya don’t. I believe in being proactive not reactive. Besides it gives me something to do. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Just like I did to my BigBend, I’ll change my oil at 500 miles then again at a 1000, then I will change it every 5000 thousand with full synthetic. Good Luck in whatever you decide, I’m not an engineer but I think there is no “wrong” answer.

I am in total agreement on the full synthetic every 5k miles......

 

[davidb1841]

Love the Velocity Blue...(My Tremor is Velocity Blue)

 

[Deleted member 6350]

Love the Velocity Blue...(My Tremor is Velocity Blue)

Are you talking about my Blue one ? If you are it’s called Atlas Blue Metallic for 2023

 

[davidg4781]

I finally received my license plates so I installed them. I also cleaned up the corner of my windshield to put on my registration sticker.

Boring, I know.

OH! I took a couple of coworkers to lunch. So I'm coming from a 2006 Accord. Great car. But man was it ugly. And the headliner was falling sagging. So when I would get invited for lunch I either declined or tried to go with them. They said "Let's go in your new car" and I said alright, where to?

My first payment hasn't hit so I guess I can still go out to eat.

 

[Bucko]

To me it’s “Better to be Safe than Sorry” haven’t got to many miles on this one, only about 300, but my BigBend that I traded in with 16000 thousand miles I got maybe 2 tablespoons worth of oil in those 16000 thousand miles, I just don’t like the idea of returning that oil back into the pan. I want this engine to last between 150000 thousand to 200000 hundred thousand , so call me a little anal or ocd. It’s one of those “Damn if you do Damn if ya don’t. I believe in being proactive not reactive. Besides it gives me something to do. I also believe in preventative maintenance. Just like I did to my BigBend, I’ll change my oil at 500 miles then again at a 1000, then I will change it every 5000 thousand with full synthetic. Good Luck in whatever you decide, I’m not an engineer but I think there is no “wrong” answer.

The separator captures oil mist that is routed to the MAF, and then burned off by the engine combustion cycle. It does not go back into the oil pan. This oil mist over time can collect on the butterfly valve of the MAF (air intake), and collect on the intake valves. This can reduce fuel mileage and poor performance over time. Grades of gasoline or purchasing fuel additives can help in keeping the MAF and valves clean, plus the use of an oil separator.

All internal combustion engines require the crankcase to "breathe". In the past, the crankcase fumes/oil mist was sent via the PCV valve to the intake to be burned off by engine combustion. Earlier days (50's and early 60's), crankcase fumes/oil mist was simply sent via a ventilation tube and out to the atmosphere. I had a 50's Chevy pickup with a Small block V8 that did this. It was a pollution issue.

The issues with catch cans is that you need to make sure the connections are tight and do not leak. Check from time to time to verify the O rings are not allowing any leakage at their fittings where they snap onto the plastic nipples. And empty and clean out the catch can routinely. As an engine gets older with mileage, it will produce more blowby past its piston oil and compression rings, creating more oil mist that is routed back to the air intake system to be burned off. The catch can captures a good amount of this blow by oil mist.

I've used them in two other vehicles I owned. One was a 2017 Mustang Boss. After 30,000 mikes, I would see about 2 to 3 tablespoons of oil in the catch can. I drove that monster hard! Nice to know I was not dumping all that oil mist back through the MAF and into the cylinders to coat the intake valves.
They don't catch all blowby, but a good amount of it.

I don't sell them, nor have any stock with them, I just use them.

 

[Mark S.]

This oil mist over time can collect on the butterfly valve of the MAF (air intake), and collect on the intake valves. This can reduce fuel mileage and poor performance over time.

Ford (all manufacturers, really) has been aware of carbon fouling of intake valves since manufacturers started producing direct-injection engines. All of Ford's EcoBoost engines incorporate an air/oil separator to limit the amount of crankcase oil in the PCV system going past the intake valves. A big part of the new API SN oil standard is to limit volatility (a liquid's propensity to evaporate), which has gone far toward eliminating the carbon fouling issue for most manufacturers. Ford has also modified fuel injection and valve timing overlap to get some fuel back into the intake tract for valve detergent purposes. We've owned EcoBoost equipped cars for 8 years, putting 140+ miles on two different vehicles. We've never had a problem with valve contamination.

I think if you use top tier gas, the proper oil, and observe the recommended maintenance schedule the factory air/oil separator is adequate for preventing valve contamination. Some say installing a catch can is "cheap insurance," but it also adds to your maintenance work, and the additional components you install can fail/malfunction. I'll pass.

BTW, the 1.5L is both direct and port injected, so carbon fouling with that engine is even more unlikely.

 

[Bucko]

Ford (all manufacturers, really) has been aware of carbon fouling of intake valves since manufacturers started producing direct-injection engines. All of Ford's EcoBoost engines incorporate an air/oil separator to limit the amount of crankcase oil in the PCV system going past the intake valves. A big part of the new API SN oil standard is to limit volatility (a liquid's propensity to evaporate), which has gone far toward eliminating the carbon fouling issue for most manufacturers. Ford has also modified fuel injection and valve timing overlap to get some fuel back into the intake tract for valve detergent purposes. We've owned EcoBoost equipped cars for 8 years, putting 140+ miles on two different vehicles. We've never had a problem with valve contamination.

I think if you use top tier gas, the proper oil, and observe the recommended maintenance schedule the factory air/oil separator is adequate for preventing valve contamination. Some say installing a catch can is "cheap insurance," but it also adds to your maintenance work, and the additional components you install can fail/malfunction. I'll pass.

BTW, the 1.5L is both direct and port injected, so carbon fouling with that engine is even more unlikely.

So, where will I find this factory air/oil separator? Or is it some sort of internal baffle/assembly?

 

[Mark S.]

So, where will I find this factory air/oil separator? Or is it some sort of internal baffle/assembly?

I don't know; I don't own a 1.5L. I just know it has one because it was the subject of a recall.

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