Speaker upgrade with B&O stereo system

[WildFord]

You can unplug the dash tweeters. The oem doesn’t have a capacitor, they are daisy chained. The two ways and the dash tweeters will still work if you just plug and play. I left the dash tweeters hooked up since the oem setup is very front biased and vocally soft. I needed volume and clarity with a better soundstage. The oem tweeters are are also 8ohm while everything else is 4ohm. You have to watch some of the sensitivity ratings since some are measured 1w/1m vs 2.83v/1m. 4 ohm at 1w/1m is more efficient than 4 ohm at 2.83v/1m. So the focal and the PB work out to about the same sensitivity since the way they are measured.
I found the vocals too bright with not enough mid bass. Bass would buzz. They’re also 60hz whereas the PB are 70hz. They didn’t sound as good overall compared to the PB.

Great info! thanks! I see you also tried the Focal. I didn't realized they don't have standard measuring for sensitivity. I didn't find any info on that.

if they are "daisy chained" in series, that is adding a lot of resistance.

OEM B&O certainly is not exactly B&O's best parts catalog. My Audi's B&O sounds outstanding...so that part I was disappointed....but the upgrade is better than other stock radios. Perhaps that bar is pretty low.

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[RiotfunK]

The Ford B&O is also their Sony, etc system rebranded. Same speakers etc. they’ve been using these same parts since like 2014 and just slapping badging on it. You’re paying for the name, not the sound. I mean half the speakers used in the B&O are the ones used in the base BS. They’re just amplified.

 

[69cuda340s]

I am surprise Crutchfield was inaccurate with speaker recommendations for the sport. I have used Crutchfield recommended speakers in several other vehicles with excellent results. Hopefully they get their act together with sport speaker recommendations.

 

[SgtT11B]

The reason why the PB speakers works so well it's because it works with the stock Ford equalization. If you really want to switch out to a different set of speakers need to put either a new LCI in to control the crossover points or even have to run speakers that are working with the stock units. That's why a lot of us in the Mustang world that have the six speaker and nine speakers systems we use forscan to remove the equalization, otherwise when changing the speakers is no improvement or very little.

 

[thekingprawn]

I'm fairly interested in throwing these in my Bronco to replace the non-B&O stock speakers, I am not, however, very interested in taking off door panels. I think for now the laziness -- and the need for a new graphics card in my computer -- will probably win out.

 

[specter]

good info, ive been considering upgrading my bs bb's speakers maybe ill consider these

 

[Meanderthal]

I'm fairly interested in throwing these in my Bronco to replace the non-B&O stock speakers, I am not, however, very interested in taking off door panels. I think for now the laziness -- and the need for a new graphics card in my computer -- will probably win out.

I did the front doors the other day. It was pretty easy other than two small items. First, the little panel behind the door latch lever is very difficult to get behind. What seemed to work for me was to insert a small plastic trim tool in the front gap and then use a small flat head screwdriver to pry it off. When I tried this technique with 2 trim tools, the plastic tool just flexed. The second problem is that the cables for the door latch are held with a clip that apparently doesn’t want to come off and in the end just breaks the tab off. I don’t think this is truly a problem going forward but it happened on both sides without me even realizing it was happening until it was done.

The other thing to be prepared for is that the door latch cables will stay attached. Unless I’m missing some way to release them. So, I had a stool sitting close to sit the door card panel on while I worked. If you are just doing the speaker, I would say this is about a 15 minute job per door. Maybe a little slower on the first door and faster as you go.

I used a 10mm socket/ratchet, 8mm nut driver (door latch area screw), 7mm nut driver (behind reflector and 2 on bottom edge of door card, and plastic trim tools.

 

[RiotfunK]

There’s a clip to press to remove the lock mechanism on the side of it and goes back in same way, just touch it and it’ll release the whole cable connection. To put it back in, you have to move the lock latch on the door and will clip in. The plastic panel behind the door handle, just push a trim tool in towards the front middle of that panel and it’ll pop right off. I’ve had the doors off 5+ times, always came off easy. Never broke anything. Look at the tip of the red arrow, you’ll see the release tab. Push that towards the front of vehicle and it pops right out.

 

[Megakatx]

I replaced my stock speakers with those
Alpine S-S65 S-Series 6.5-inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers (pair) https://a.co/d/0Fas2Qx
I'm very happy with the results...
Now I'm planning to use the dynamat to improve the sound...

 

[ttt123]

I changed out my door speakers when i brought it home from the dealership. I'm happier with it. crisper and clearer.

I'm getting close to pulling off the rear panel to see what I can do about that sub in the back. I'd like to try and stuff a costume fiberglass enclosure plus a better am back there(if there is one) behind the panel. ?

 

[Winds of Change]

Is it the same speaker front and rear?

 

[Winds of Change]

I replaced my stock speakers with those
Alpine S-S65 S-Series 6.5-inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers (pair) https://a.co/d/0Fas2Qx
I'm very happy with the results...
Now I'm planning to use the dynamat to improve the sound...

Was it a direct fit? Any mods necessary?

 

[Meanderthal]

Was it a direct fit? Any mods necessary?

If you are looking for quick and easy with no mods or extra assembly, get the PowerBass speakers. The brand name is stupid but they go right in with the correct connector and every bit is an upgrade over the stock speakers. The sound from the speakers is clearly better. I added a layer of “DynaMat” to the whole panel to prevent rattles. It took about 30 minutes per door and I left the stock tweeters in place and functional.

 

[Megakatx]

Was it a direct fit? Any mods necessary?

Just this brackets only 1 pair for the rear speakers
Metra 82-7400 Speaker Adapter for Nissan/Infiniti Vehicles https://a.co/d/5d6zFeh
And plug converter
RED WOLF Front Rear Door Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter Connector Plug Replacement for Ford Focus Fusion Explorer Edge
https://a.co/d/6zEhD8P

 

[WildFord]

looks like you have removed some of foam ring material. I just try to install these speakers in the front door and the foam ring is too thick. I will need to do the same thing to fit the speakers probably.

also, I'm not where i read someone says the B&O speakers are the same as the standard. after I saw some pics of the std sound system speakers, the little magnet is ridiculous....

but, I think the B&O system speakers are different:

so far I have the right front in and the door panel is not fitting so I need to take it off to remove the foam ring. but I can tell these are a little brighter than the B&O stock. It may need some break-in period to sound better.

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