RiotfunK

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I’ve been a strong proponent for this system that it is severely lacking. The issues I’ve had was at lower levels you’d get buzzing with any bass in volumes 6-14 and then anything above it would distort. If you opened the windows any vocals would literally go out the window. Making the system sound out of phase and inaudible. It drove me nuts, so I started ordering different speakers and installing them.

I’ve pulled the door panels a ton of times. I’ve done plenty of swaps front and rear trying to find something plug and playish with the oem amp. I’ve run infinity, Rockford fosgates, hertz, focal, jbl, morel, and powerbass. What I’ve come up with is most aftermarket speakers don’t work that well. They ranged from 120-240$ a set.

These are what I went with. They can handle the bass, aren’t muddy and not overly bright. They give a nice soundstage. Clean sound across the range. Can listen to songs at same volume across the board and not have to adjust per song like with oem setup. I also added the thin dynamat in the doors to help with the buzzing. The buzz is gone. Went with powerbass speakers front and rear. Terrible name lol but very nicely built speakers. Packaging and customer service is top notch. I did the components in the rear doors and 2 ways up front.

What’s extra nice with these is you don’t have to redo wiring or cut into mounting brackets for wiring etc. They mount right up with factory hardware and plugs. I ended up ordering these just to try after having poor luck with most name brand 6.5/6 3/4” speakers. And was gonna gut it all since the oem B&O sounded so bad. So now there is an option for those that are wondering and don’t want to gut it all. The pic with the clip is metal and plastic and rattles, and there’s multiple per door. Think this may be an issue for some also. I wrapped mine so they wouldn’t.

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TxHill

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wow you’ve done a lot of homework. Thanks for sharing all this, but are you saying if you can dampen the buzzing first, you would have stayed with B/O? Also, did you replace the subwoofer or just the door speakers? How hard was it to replace? Thanks!
 
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RiotfunK

RiotfunK

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Yeah the clips and the interior door panels vibrate and the dynamat cut down on that almost completely even with the oem B&O. I had to replace the B&O because they distort and sound muddy. I got a 3db increase with just the PB speaker swap. Which is essentially doubling the volume. I could barely hear the B&O with the windows open with the oem setup. The oem amp isn’t that bad so wanted to just do speakers since you cannot change out the headunit and are stuck with a shitty eq.
I haven’t done the sub yet. Probs in the spring. No good place to mount one and the OEM sub location sucks and will vibrate like crazy if I put one in there. I’ve pulled the panels to see what could be done. I’m gonna do one of the self powered low profile subs under the passenger seat probs and tap into the OEM “sub” with a LOC. The door panels are easy to remove. Takes like 1-2 min a door.
Regardless I wouldn’t have stayed with the OEM speakers. They really are the worst I’ve ever heard in a factory upgraded sound system.
 

Blue oval fan

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You used the same speaker front and rear? Crutchfield seems to think they only for the rear doors.
 


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RiotfunK

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I was crutchfields guinea pig. They recommended speakers that they said would work and didn’t. Crutchfields recommendations were the worst fit out of the many I tried. They are going by size, not that they actually installed them into an BS. I tried a bunch to see what would work. Different sizes, depths, style, etc. Also on their site 6.5” speakers just means they’ll mount up to 6.5” opening. The one set they sent me was actually a 5” speaker but would mount into 6.5” and they call it 6.5”. Is weird.
You could use either, the Powerbass component set or the 2 way front or rear. I went the two ways up front since I didn’t want to pull the dash apart again. (Waiting on Ford to fix my constant rattles) but the tweeters if you did components up front will mount into the dash no problem. I did check. Crutchfield also says only like 7 speakers will mount up front since it’s listed as 6 3/4”. Pretty much any 6.5 will fit since you have to use mounting adapters. The rear doors could be an issue with a big magnet mid woofer the way they sit in the doors. The terminals won’t let it sit flush. I tried. Here’s pic of rear door.
AC73F28F-65B1-4BDE-976E-5D4D9BC08BF3.jpeg
 

Nam3

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I installed Focal components and an amp in a non b&o and had terrible rattling from the bass. I ended up cutting some thick pieces of rubber from a floor mat and folding it in half and using it to add pressure inside the door trim and the rattling went away completely.
 

SgtT11B

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Yeah the clips and the interior door panels vibrate and the dynamat cut down on that almost completely even with the oem B&O. I had to replace the B&O because they distort and sound muddy. I got a 3db increase with just the PB speaker swap. Which is essentially doubling the volume. I could barely hear the B&O with the windows open with the oem setup. The oem amp isn’t that bad so wanted to just do speakers since you cannot change out the headunit and are stuck with a shitty eq.
I haven’t done the sub yet. Probs in the spring. No good place to mount one and the OEM sub location sucks and will vibrate like crazy if I put one in there. I’ve pulled the panels to see what could be done. I’m gonna do one of the self powered low profile subs under the passenger seat probs and tap into the OEM “sub” with a LOC. The door panels are easy to remove. Takes like 1-2 min a door.
Regardless I wouldn’t have stayed with the OEM speakers. They really are the worst I’ve ever heard in a factory upgraded sound system.
3db would be equal to doubling the power not doubling the volume. However thanks for sharing the experience you learned.
 


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RiotfunK

RiotfunK

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I did all four doors with it and still have some left. Was only 55$. Worth it to stop the buzz and vibrations.
Either way the new speakers are more efficient and far louder. Measured at volume level 20 on oem and PB with same song, same distance, etc. You can come do a comparison with your B&O or others if you want to hear the difference.
 

Blue oval fan

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Been using this stuff for the longest time. Sticks great and works just as good.

Noico 80 mil 10 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://a.co/d/6LSXA9T
 

WildFord

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Those PB speakers has sensitivity rating of 88 db. The Focal 2-way (RCX-165) is rated 91.5 db. I was just thinking if the PB speakers are already much more sensitive, hence louder sound, at 88 db which I thought is not a high rating. The OEM speakers are like 85 or less?!!

By the way, you use the 2-way for the front door, I was wondering if anyone know if there is a crossover between the OEM front door speakers and dash tweeters?? Would that make those 2-way tweeter portion rather ineffective??

anyway, "sounds" like this is a very good option to upgrade the OEM. thanks for the work.
 
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RiotfunK

RiotfunK

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You can unplug the dash tweeters. The oem doesn’t have a capacitor, they are daisy chained. The two ways and the dash tweeters will still work if you just plug and play. I left the dash tweeters hooked up since the oem setup is very front biased and vocally soft. I needed volume and clarity with a better soundstage. The oem tweeters are are also 8ohm while everything else is 4ohm. You have to watch some of the sensitivity ratings since some are measured 1w/1m vs 2.83v/1m. 4 ohm at 1w/1m is more efficient than 4 ohm at 2.83v/1m. So the focal and the PB work out to about the same sensitivity since the way they are measured.
I found the vocals too bright with not enough mid bass. Bass would buzz. They’re also 60hz whereas the PB are 70hz. They didn’t sound as good overall compared to the PB.
 

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I don’t know if it will fit, but I was looking at this 6X9 sub to replace the B&O one, if it proves lacking once the door speakers have been upgraded.
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