Outfitting 2025 Badlands

[ryan_socal]

My ‘25 Badlands finally made its first tracks in dirt yesterday, so I figured it’s good occasion to share my build. More details to follow.

• 2025 Badlands in Desert Sand
• HRG 1.5” lift kit (spacers)
• Method MR701 17x7.5 bronze wheels (30mm offset)
• Toyo AT3 245/65R17 tires
• JCR skids and sliders
• TrailRax roof rack
• Lights:
  • Nilight amber light bar
  • Nilight 4x 4” spots
  • Nilight ditch lights on HRG brackets
  • Auxbeam 6-gang solid state relay kit

 

[Dude]

Super nice!!

 

[DesertRat19]

nice setup! enjoy

 

[Quashish]

Bro noice

 

[Tickover]

How did you run the wires down from the light bar and the spots?

 

[ryan_socal]

How did you run the wires down from the light bar and the spots?

Glad you asked. I pretty much followed what @Curtsbronco did in his thread here.

Summary: From the engine bay, I routed 2 wire pairs (14 and 16 AWG jacketed from nilight) around the driver’s side hood hinge and up the A pillar under the outside trim (no inside trim removal needed), then through a 7” length of KC wire hider that sits on top of the roof rack channel, over to the base of the roof rack. Doesn’t look too flattering with camera flash and not as clean as punching through the pillar via Ford’s 37-page instructions, but looks good to me and I think it’ll hold up.

From there, the two wire pairs just tuck up under the roof rack and are terminated with waterproof automotive connectors. That way I can disconnect the lights when I take the roof rack off and the lights with it. I’m considering putting a weatherproof junction box up there to further protect the connectors and roll up slack.

A few more details in case anyone is interested in a similar roof rack and lights setup..

I played with a few configurations for the four spot lights up top with different kinds of brackets, and settled on these steel 2.5” x 1.5” L-brackets from Ace hardware. I’ll keep an eye on them to see how bad they rust.

I wanted to tuck the wires under the 1”x2” 8020-style slotted roof rack bars to keep them out of direct rain and sunlight, but I couldn’t find any good way to secure the harness under there. Ziptie anchors didn’t fit in the 1/4” slots. So I CAD’ed up some clips and printed them in PETG which should hold up to weather and UV. The clips sit nice and snug and hold the 1/2” corrugated wire wrap securely, yet are easy to pop out when needed. I’m happy with how these turned out and would definitely recommend the same approach to anyone with a 1”x2” slot extrusion roof rack system. I posted the print files here.

 

[ryan_socal]

Some detail on the relay setup.

I initially futzed with a super cheap Nilight 6-gang, discounted on amazon resale, but it turned out that unit was returned for a reason. The control board was faulty. I wasted a couple of nights installing and trying to get that to work. Should have tested before installing.

I sent that back and bought this 6-gang solid state relay kit from Auxbeam. This kit was much easier to work with, and better built. Now I understand why Auxbeam is so popular around here.

To mount the relay box, I cut out a section of 3/4” aluminum square tube and drilled clearance holes in it to fit around a couple of existing posts at the top of the driver’s side quarter panel. That made it easy to mount the mounting bracket that was included in the Auxbeam kit.

I routed the relay control ACC power lead and the switch panel control cable through the big rubber grommet behind the battery, leading into the driver’s side foot well. I’m not sure if non-Badlands trims have that grommet.

For now, I put the Auxbeam switch panel in the easiest spot - just below the vehicle light switches left of and below the steering wheel. There was already a pop-out there, so I didn’t need to cut or screw into anything, just popped a bracket behind the popout to clamp against.

I wanted to make a NASA-style switch panel like @Trist0n’s but I chickened out, knowing how much work would go into the wiring and wire routing and panel design and installation. And although the custom job would have been cool, I kinda like the look of the Auxbeam panel where it ended up.

 

[CancunBadlands]

Outdoors life is overrated... who remember those days back in the 70's when you jumped into dad's car for a fishing trip without all the camping/overland stuff that you "must buy" today...
You're BS looks sexy tho
I'm just a random cheap guy haha

 

[Tickover]

Thanks everyone, I also have a Trailrax on my 2025 Sasquatch with all the lights. Yes, going to be an Overlander and yes, did all that hunting and fishes with dad and family with only a tent and a few camping things all packed into an 1962 Mercury wagon.

 

[Trist0n]

Some detail on the relay setup.

I initially futzed with a super cheap Nilight 6-gang, discounted on amazon resale, but it turned out that unit was returned for a reason. The control board was faulty. I wasted a couple of nights installing and trying to get that to work. Should have tested before installing.

I sent that back and bought this 6-gang solid state relay kit from Auxbeam. This kit was much easier to work with, and better built. Now I understand why Auxbeam is so popular around here.

To mount the relay box, I cut out a section of 3/4” aluminum square tube and drilled clearance holes in it to fit around a couple of existing posts at the top of the driver’s side quarter panel. That made it easy to mount the mounting bracket that was included in the Auxbeam kit.

I routed the relay control ACC power lead and the switch panel control cable through the big rubber grommet behind the battery, leading into the driver’s side foot well. I’m not sure if non-Badlands trims have that grommet.

For now, I put the Auxbeam switch panel in the easiest spot - just below the vehicle light switches left of and below the steering wheel. There was already a pop-out there, so I didn’t need to cut or screw into anything, just popped a bracket behind the popout to clamp against.

I wanted to make a NASA-style switch panel like @Trist0n’s but I chickened out, knowing how much work would go into the wiring and wire routing and panel design and installation. And although the custom job would have been cool, I kinda like the look of the Auxbeam panel where it ended up.

Super clean wiring job, nice work!!

 

[ryan_socal]

Rounding up some details posted elsewhere about thisq build..

Installing JCR skids and sliders. This ended up being a heckuva lot more work than expected but I’m glad they’re on.

Installing rear cargo ceiling hooks for a cargo net in the otherwise unusable scalloped roof space above the cargo area.

The HRG spacer lift kit was pretty straightforward with provided instructions, so no writeup about that, but here’s a pic of a strut on my friend’s workbench just because. ?

 

[ryan_socal]

I installed 2 ceiling nets and they were a godsend for our camping trip over the weekend. These nets don’t impede my view at all from the driver’s seat, even with the nets fully loaded with 4 blankets, a folding chair, pillows, my kids’ stuffies, snacks, and rolls of TP and paper towels. All of this stuff would have otherwise added to the pile in the cargo area which fills up fast for any overnight+ trip for a family of 4 + dog. I highly recommend ceiling nets - at least the 3-point net if you don’t want to hassle with adding your own anchors, but adding the anchors was easily worth the work.

 

[ryan_socal]

This thing is a camping machine!

 

[Mark S.]

Really great pics, Ryan!

 

[Quashish]

Awesome. I might have to copy those hooks

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