NEW 2025 BS Badlands Error After First 400 Miles

DonImbimbo

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One of the things that "clicks & clacks" with other whirring noises is the EVAP system. Seems this will run every 3 days or so to check the fuel tank. I've heard it run even after the car is parked for a week in the garage.
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I got lucky in high school in the 60's and got a job at a car garage. I've been doing all work on all my vehicles since then - saved me untold thousands. When my son was in high school - we pulled the engine out of our 86 Dodge Caravan and totally rebuilt it so he could get some experience. He's saved thousands by now. These newer cars are different beasts - more like computers sitting on 4 wheels. I won't be doing as much on this one. I've been driving a 2003 2 door ford explorer for over 20 years that still runs like a clock - but I decided to make the leap to something new before I'm done. I really would have been content with 2 wheel drive - but that wasn't option. As I didn't want that 1.5 liter - I had to go with the Badlands - which sorta pissed me off as it cost a lot more. Oh well - can't take it with me...
 

TrueNorthSport

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One of the things that "clicks & clacks" with other whirring noises is the EVAP system. Seems this will run every 3 days or so to check the fuel tank. I've heard it run even after the car is parked for a week in the garage.
FWIW, the"clicking and clacking " that I hear in the BB seems to be coming from inside the dashboard and not the engine compartment.
 
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New update on my original problem in this thread. First - I took it to the dealer so that the problem would be noted in their system. They found nothing - so replaced the sensor that caused the error. All good for couple weeks. Tonight, 1000 miles from home I again got stuck in traffic for an extended period of time and again I pressed that brake hold switch. Then traffic moved some and I touched the gas pedal slightly to release the hold. Stopped again and noticed the light on that hold switch was still on so I pressed it again to turn it off. Within 60 seconds the same errors/warnings/problem started. I actually had to drive back to my brothers house and transmission would jolt when put in gear and transmission shifted erratically and jerky with reduced power the 5 miles back. Now letting it sit overnight to see if fault clears.
Any thoughts on this. I'm real unimpressed at this point.
 

Garth

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As far as a battery tender or charger goes . I read or saw it matters where you connect to your positive lead or else the system wont recognize the charge. So you may have charged the battery all night so dont connect to the post but further up the leed. Before the monitor or what ever its called.
 
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Tonight, 1000 miles from home I again got stuck in traffic for an extended period of time and again I pressed that brake hold switch. Then traffic moved some and I touched the gas pedal slightly to release the hold. Stopped again and noticed the light on that hold switch was still on so I pressed it again to turn it off.
The light on the button stays on all the time once you engage it. Doesn’t mean it’s applying the brakes. The indicator in the dash display tells you when it’s actively holding the vehicle.
 
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I was going to look that up. Thanks. Im not too fond of that 'feature' anyhow. It seems too easy to release the brakes - bumping a little switch or touching the gas pedal. Putting electrical components in the center console it really bad design in my opinion.
 

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I was going to look that up. Thanks. Im not too fond of that 'feature' anyhow. It seems too easy to release the brakes - bumping a little switch or touching the gas pedal. Putting electrical components in the center console it really bad design in my opinion.
IMHO it’s a great feature! But then I also drive an EV with “one pedal” operation so I’m used to not needing to keep my foot on the brake when stopped.

I’ve never accidentally disabled the brake hold by pressing the button on the center console. And yes, it will release the brake when you press the accelerator any amount; that’s the way it’s supposed to work.

There is definitely an adjustment period with any new feature. My suggestion is to give it an extended test drive before passing judgement. And I promise I won’t be offended if you ultimately decide leave it disabled 😆
 

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I was going to look that up. Thanks. Im not too fond of that 'feature' anyhow. It seems too easy to release the brakes - bumping a little switch or touching the gas pedal. Putting electrical components in the center console it really bad design in my opinion.
Took me a bit to trust it, but I do like the availability of that functionality, and do use it with longer lights periodically. It can't be accidently disabled; you have to put your foot on the brake to turn it off again. FYI, it also keeps the brake lights illuminated while engaged and in operation. Press the go pedal and you & the lights are off.
 

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I think if it as drive though mode because thats the only time I could think of using it. Probably the only mode that doesnt default to off which was a surprise, it only took a couple of days of wondering why my brakes were dragging.
 


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I'll try it some more to get the feel. I can't touch that switch until I get home - 1000 miles. I've touched it twice and got that severe message and limited power/shifting problem within 5 minutes. After looking at the schematic I can't even guess of any interaction that hold switch could be having with the transmission
 

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I'll try it some more to get the feel. I can't touch that switch until I get home - 1000 miles. I've touched it twice and got that severe message and limited power/shifting problem within 5 minutes. After looking at the schematic I can't even guess of any interaction that hold switch could be having with the transmission
It's the same codes as last time:

Ford Bronco Sport NEW 2025 BS Badlands Error After First 400 Miles 1776102596508-8a
 
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Thanks for checking. Ford replaced the sensor as they couldn't find anything else. I had not associated that maybe that hold switch was possibly involved - so I didn't relay that to the dealer.
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