Disabled auto start/stop with Forscan

[Digitalexcess]

I'm fairly certain that's the current-shunt used for measuring current flow to/from the battery. That's a pretty draconian method of disabling auto-start/auto-stop subsystem on a heavily computerized vehicle.

The BCM uses that current-shunt's data as part of determining recharge strategy for the battery (alternator output control) among other things.

Thanks for the info. I'll hook it back up. No problems yet, but as you said, other things may be dependent upon that connection. It worked for years on my F-150, but the harness was under the dash above the driver's left foot, not directly to the battery.

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[VirtualJMills]

Thanks for the info. I'll hook it back up. No problems yet, but as you said, other things may be dependent upon that connection. It worked for years on my F-150, but the harness was under the dash above the driver's left foot, not directly to the battery.

IIRC there's something like 15 or so parameters which, depending on their state, could "prevent" auto-stop/auto-start from occurring. Not sure how many are user modifiable via simple changes (mechanical that is since we're talking about non-FORScan based options), but perhaps there's one that has less of an impact on the rest of the vehicles systems.

Ideally you'd want something that is a zero-impact change, no added risk to system reliability, no impact to drivability, etc… that can be reverted / backed-out if you need to, later.

On my end, it's the 30 minute idle shutdown default state (timer always enabled at every engine-startup) that drives me batty, not at-intersection auto-stop/auto-start. For safety reasons, my vehicle might be idling for longer than that, so I have to explicitly check/disable that timer frequently. Not being able to disable it •at all• would have been a deal-breaker on purchase.

 

[VirtualJMills]

IIRC there's something like 15 or so parameters which, depending on their state, could "prevent" auto-stop/auto-start from occurring. Not sure how many are user modifiable via simple changes (mechanical that is since we're talking about non-FORScan based options), but perhaps there's one that has less of an impact on the rest of the vehicles systems.

Ideally you'd want something that is a zero-impact change, no added risk to system reliability, no impact to drivability, etc… that can be reverted / backed-out if you need to, later.

Low-rent, but a quick screenshot of the 15 Start/Stop Inhibit factors from FORScan Lite on a cell phone.

I think lying about Secondary Battery Average Voltage is the only one that is low-impact, •ASSUMING• that the "Secondary Battery" is the pack for non-existent Bronco Sport Hybrid powertrain. As to how one actually accesses that input from a location a human can reach.... dunno.

 

[HotChicken]

Ford Engineers: Here's a no-effort way for you to save gas money *and* save emissions at the same time. If you really hate win-wins, here's a button to disable it whenever you want.

Select Bronco Sport Owners:

 

[Bronco II]

I turn it off every time I get in my Ranger but the wife leaves it on when she drives her BL BL

 

[ZeroCool]

Looked this up for fun. Imagine starting the car like this at every stop light!

You would turn the key “on” which caused a series of four coils in individual wooden boxes to “buzz.” You would pull the emergency brake all the way back. This would also put the “transmission” in neutral. You then pulled the “spark” lever all the way down, and just bareley move the gas lever down. Now you’re ready to start the Model T.
You then went to the front of the vehicle and took a hold of the crank handle. You pushed the crank in to engage the crankshaft, and turned the motor until the crank was between seven and nine o’clock making sure your thumb was on the same side of the crank handle as your fingers! You then gave the crank a quick pull. If the stars were in perfect alignment, and your motor in fairly good condition, the motor would putter to life! You would have to run back to the drivers side and move the spark lever up enough the motor would idle smoothly, or it would quit.

 

[RS1]

Now that was driving. Men were men and women were women and many a broken arm was seen from kickback.

Pushing that button reminds me of my one touch down but not up drivers window horror.

 

[DMEARC]

Low-rent, but a quick screenshot of the 15 Start/Stop Inhibit factors from FORScan Lite on a cell phone.

I think lying about Secondary Battery Average Voltage is the only one that is low-impact, •ASSUMING• that the "Secondary Battery" is the pack for non-existent Bronco Sport Hybrid powertrain. As to how one actually accesses that input from a location a human can reach.... dunno.

Secondary batttery is probably there to help keep things powered during auto stops (headlights, cabin fan, radio, etc).

 

[VirtualJMills]

Secondary batttery is probably there to help keep things powered during auto stops (headlights, cabin fan, radio, etc).

I'd like to think that (who doesn't wish for dual battery banks?), but where is that battery, then?

The current-shunt on the main (starter) battery reads ~ -23A net-flow during an auto-stop with HVAC fans running, daytime. (so DRLs + brake-lights only).

 

[nategannam]

I either press the off button or put it in sports mode. I am always in the habit of switching to eco before I put it in drive, so one other turn of the dial is no big deal

 

[buechel]

Still waiting on my Big Bend but was told by dealer that by plugging a pigtail into trailer wiring also disables the auto start/stop feature

 

[Mark S.]

Still waiting on my Big Bend but was told by dealer that by plugging a pigtail into trailer wiring also disables the auto start/stop feature

Unfortunately, I believe it also disables the BLIS and cross-traffic alert system.

 

[DemonGT]

The amount of fuel used to idle a motor at a stop light isnt even worth measuring, especially a 3 cylinder

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