OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points

pixlpush

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I have a 2025 Badlands Sasquatch with the OEM brush guard. I'm Prepping recovery gear for a road trip and noticed the front recovery point bolts (where the OEM brush guard mounts) stick out farther than necessary. The factory bolts are M10 x 1.5 x 65mm, and the extra length can interfere with soft shackles or potentially damage them under load.

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374695528-qv
Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374718010-yq


I picked up another set, cut them down to 55mm top, 50mm bottom, and smoothed the ends before reinstalling. I realize it's recomended to have 2-3 threads extend past the nut but in this case that's going to be an issue and I'll add some threadlocker. Much cleaner setup and less chance of contact with the shackles. I might even try some M10 accorn/cap nuts.

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374795196-xy

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374805834-su

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374819056-eq


I’m also working on some 3D-printed inserts to help keep soft shackles centered and off the bolt ends. Testing a TPU version next (aiming for hockey-puck firmness). I’ll share the .stl file once it’s sorted out.

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374847945-eg

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points 1771374868773-yl
 
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Escape2Bronco

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The soft shackles are remarkably tough. Having the ends rounded will help even more.
 

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I'm not sure why they saw the need for such a long bolt. It is a bit silly.

For printing, PC or ABS may offer the best durability, but I'm sure a dense TPU would be fine. Don't waste time or money on any CF variants, they're more marketing than performance. For exterior applications like this, I'd lean towards ABS, but it's not like they're hard or expensive to print spare sets in whatever material you choose.

I might suggest adding a radius to the inner and outer edges; that might help with chafing and enhance the print's longevity (less chance of edge tearout)
 
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I'm not sure why they saw the need for such a long bolt. It is a bit silly.

For printing, PC or ABS may offer the best durability, but I'm sure a dense TPU would be fine. Don't waste time or money on any CF variants, they're more marketing than performance. For exterior applications like this, I'd lean towards ABS, but it's not like they're hard or expensive to print spare sets in whatever material you choose.

I might suggest adding a radius to the inner and outer edges; that might help with chafing and enhance the print's longevity (less chance of edge tearout)
Thanks for the material suggestions. I’m only planning on using the inserts when I’m using the soft shackles so they’ll spend most of their time in the recovery bag.

Good idea on the edge radius too planning on adding that once I nail the size. The castings of the recovery points are a millimeter or two different left to right because of different amounts of flashing.
 

Escape2Bronco

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Since you are not planning on storing them outside, ABS is fine. Just for future reference, ABS is not UV resistant so external applications need to be painted. Since they are really not supporting any of the load, most materials are fine. Like @jkernitzki said, no reason to use carbon fiber reinforced material although I have found them to be quite useful in some applications. They do increase the strength substantially but not needed at all in this case.
 


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Since you are not planning on storing them outside, ABS is fine. Just for future reference, ABS is not UV resistant so external applications need to be painted. Since they are really not supporting any of the load, most materials are fine. Like @jkernitzki said, no reason to use carbon fiber reinforced material although I have found them to be quite useful in some applications. They do increase the strength substantially but not needed at all in this case.
I used to think so too, then I ran across this a few months ago. In the case of PLA-CF and PETG-CF, not only are they actually weaker, they’re downright hazardous. There are other filament compositions that it does make a difference, but those tend to be more specialized and in some cases out of the realm of all but truly industrial printers.

 

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I used to think so too, then I ran across this a few months ago. In the case of PLA-CF and PETG-CF, not only are they actually weaker, they’re downright hazardous. There are other filament compositions that it does make a difference, but those tend to be more specialized and in some cases out of the realm of all but truly industrial printers.

You are correct, the fine print matters (pun intended). My experience has only been with CF reinforced ABS. It has its advantages and drawbacks. But with most things, it can be used for the wrong reasons and CF has its own issues. The dust can be very hazardous and the material is very hard on the printer heads even when made of tungsten. Its advantage is it is way stronger in specific applications. In the use case above, it would provide no advantage based on the loading of the shackle.
 

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You are correct, the fine print matters (pun intended). My experience has only been with CF reinforced ABS. It has its advantages and drawbacks. But with most things, it can be used for the wrong reasons and CF has its own issues. The dust can be very hazardous and the material is very hard on the printer heads even when made of tungsten. Its advantage is it is way stronger in specific applications. In the use case above, it would provide no advantage based on the loading of the shackle.
I think that in the end that for most hobbyists, CF filaments are just not worth the added expense or risk. I think the only one I would consider is ABS-CF, and then only for under-hood applications that wouldn't be subject to high torque. For any application requiring more than that I'd just find an SLS service.
 

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I think that in the end that for most hobbyists, CF filaments are just not worth the added expense or risk. I think the only one I would consider is ABS-CF, and then only for under-hood applications that wouldn't be subject to high torque. For any application requiring more than that I'd just find an SLS service.
Agreed. There are so many outside service providers that it really doesn’t make sense for the home hobbyist. I’m guessing most do not have exhaust fans used near the 3D printer. Unfortunately, most do not understand the hazards of these fiber reinforced plastics.
 

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Agreed. There are so many outside service providers that it really doesn’t make sense for the home hobbyist. I’m guessing most do not have exhaust fans used near the 3D printer. Unfortunately, most do not understand the hazards of these fiber reinforced plastics.
That's one reason my printer's in the garage. ;)
 


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For your new bolts - make sure you stay with the same grade bolts. I know Tractor Supply has grade 2, 5 and grade 8. Not sure about metric though. You should torque those to factory specs too as the bolts are in a shear mounting (i think - can't tell for sure).
 

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I noticed this too. And they won't allow hard shackles to be used without damaging the bolts, the shackle, or both.
This is one of the reasons I've not used the light mounts I have to put on a couple lights onto the bar itself, even though it would put them high enough to give more distance, and to avoid both the camera and parking sensors. If I needed to use them, I'd need to remove the bar.

You wouldn't have tested the clearance with some steel shackles? If this gives enough clearance I'll have to give it a try.

Even shorter and rounded I'd be a little leery of using a soft shackle though. They are tough as someone said, but there is a lot of force when they are being used, even if you're using a bridle to spread the force between the two points (and to reduce risk to the unibody being twisted).
 

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Id be tempted to take some bar stock round the edges and drill and countersink for the bolts or even some round bar and split it.
 
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The more I looked at this today I’m going to try some shorter than stock M10-1.5 button head hex drive bolts in place of the stock hex head bolts.
Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points IMG_2294
Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points IMG_2290


That with some cap nuts, like the top one here, on the other side will help eliminate a lot of sharp edges that are my primary concern.

Ford Bronco Sport OEM brush guard bolts interfere with recovery points IMG_2289


Parts ordered I’ll let you know how that works.
 
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Garth

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The more I look at that situation I think hard shackles would be the best solution
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