Ford Battery Recall - #25S02

[sajohnson]

Is there a way to determine if a battery was made by Camel or Clarios? I found no mention of either on the labels.

It doesn't seem to matter in terms of the recall -- apparently all EFB's are being replaced, regardless of mfr -- but knowing a battery was made by Clarios would give some piece of mind.

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[Dude]

Is there a way to determine if a battery was made by Camel or Clarios? I found no mention of either on the labels.

You may need to pull the battery out of the vehicle and example all sides carefully including bottom and top which will be something of an unpleasant job… this is what ChatGPT has to say:

To determine whether a 12V battery was made by Camel or Clarios, you can examine the following aspects:

1. Manufacturer’s Label
• Camel: Batteries typically have the Camel logo prominently displayed, and the label often mentions “Camel Group Co., Ltd.”

• Clarios: Clarios often manufactures batteries for various brands (e.g., Optima, Varta, Heliar, LTH, and DieHard). Look for the brand label and check the fine print for “Made by Clarios” or “Manufactured by Clarios.”

2. Brand or Distributor Information
• Batteries made by Clarios might not have the “Clarios” name directly on the label but instead show the brand they are producing for. Check the distributor’s details.

• Camel batteries are often labeled as such, especially in Asian markets.

3. Manufacturing Codes or Serial Numbers
• Check for batch or manufacturing codes stamped or printed on the battery. You can research these codes online or contact the manufacturer for clarification.

4. Country of Origin
• Camel: Made in China, as Camel Group is a Chinese company.

• Clarios: Made in various countries (depending on the brand), such as the USA, Germany, or Mexico.

5. Packaging and Retailer Information
• The retailer or the battery’s packaging may indicate the manufacturer.

• Clarios batteries are more commonly found in well-known global retail chains, while Camel batteries are more region-specific.

If you’re unsure, providing a picture of the label or serial number (to ChatGPT) could help pinpoint the manufacturer.

 

[Bill G]

Got the recall “pre”-notice yesterday. The EF battery in my ‘21 BSBL went bad and was replaced with AGM by Ford in July 24 (just after 3/36 warranty was up), so I paid for it. Checked w/my dealer today, and was told the recall no longer applied to me, but to check back when it was officially opened — they might get Ford to reimburse me for what I paid for the new battery & install. Fingers crossed

 

[BLUEOVALRACER]

It was cold -11 here in Northeast,Ohio last Night.When i woke up and went out for the Paper i but the Battery Charger Maintainer on it for over 3 Hours and when i started it,it cranked Very Slow almost thought it wasn't going to start and it came up on center screen System Off To Save Battery.And like i said this was after the charger was on it for over 3 hours.And another thing that makes no sense to me on these Bronco Sports is why do the fans for the Headlights come on when you open the hood? I really think my Battery could be going bad and i'm going to go to Auto Zone Thursday and have them test it. I wonder if my fuel gauge not showing full when i fill it could be battery related? FWIW i tested the charging system on Sunday with it running and it was over 15 Volts.FWIW my BS is a 2023 with less than 6.000 miles on it and IMO the Recall is Crap if they don't have a Remedy at this Time.

I had Auto Zone Test the Battery Today and he said the Cold Cranking Amps was right on 700 like the Battery is Rated at but the Battery Charge was only at 25%!! So i put the Charger on it for 3 Hours and took it off when i left for Work which is only about a 15 minute drive.

 

[sajohnson]

You may need to pull the battery out of the vehicle and example all sides carefully including bottom and top which will be something of an unpleasant job… this is what ChatGPT has to say:

To determine whether a 12V battery was made by Camel or Clarios, you can examine the following aspects:

1. Manufacturer’s Label
• Camel: Batteries typically have the Camel logo prominently displayed, and the label often mentions “Camel Group Co., Ltd.”

• Clarios: Clarios often manufactures batteries for various brands (e.g., Optima, Varta, Heliar, LTH, and DieHard). Look for the brand label and check the fine print for “Made by Clarios” or “Manufactured by Clarios.”

2. Brand or Distributor Information
• Batteries made by Clarios might not have the “Clarios” name directly on the label but instead show the brand they are producing for. Check the distributor’s details.

• Camel batteries are often labeled as such, especially in Asian markets.

3. Manufacturing Codes or Serial Numbers
• Check for batch or manufacturing codes stamped or printed on the battery. You can research these codes online or contact the manufacturer for clarification.

4. Country of Origin
• Camel: Made in China, as Camel Group is a Chinese company.

• Clarios: Made in various countries (depending on the brand), such as the USA, Germany, or Mexico.

5. Packaging and Retailer Information
• The retailer or the battery’s packaging may indicate the manufacturer.

• Clarios batteries are more commonly found in well-known global retail chains, while Camel batteries are more region-specific.

If you’re unsure, providing a picture of the label or serial number (to ChatGPT) could help pinpoint the manufacturer.

#4 is the key. The label says it's made in China, so apparently it's the potentially defective Camel battery.

FWIW, I'm still using the BT. Also checking and recording the voltage a few hours after it's been driven. We pop the hood when we get back home so I do not have to open the driver's door later. So it's a good 'at rest' measurement. It's been consistently good at about 12.60 to 12.70V+.

Of course in this case, none of that matters. The Camel batteries can test good and then fail 15 minutes later while driving down the highway -- with a couple 80,000 lb. semis close behind.

Question -- in ye olden days, once started, cars could continue to run with a dead battery -- or *no* battery. From the NHTSA PDF I gather that is not the case with the BS. Does anyone know why that is?

 

[Dude]

#4 is the key. The label says it's made in China, so apparently it's the potentially defective Camel battery.

Question -- in ye olden days, once started, cars could continue to run with a dead battery -- or *no* battery. From the NHTSA PDF I gather that is not the case with the BS. Does anyone know why that is?

Double check another way to verify it’s a Chinese Camel battery - I’ve had to provide corrections to ChatGPT (typically on calculations) - ChatGPT does provide some amount of incorrect information

About your question - more ChatGPT info:

Yes, older vehicles, particularly those with carbureted engines and mechanical fuel pumps, could often run with a dead battery once started. This was possible because these vehicles relied on simpler, mechanical systems rather than the electronic control systems used in modern cars. Here’s how they managed it:

1. Mechanical Ignition Systems: Older cars typically used a mechanical distributor with points and a coil to generate spark for the engine. Once the engine was started, the alternator (or generator in very old models) produced electricity to power the ignition system and other electrical components. The battery was primarily needed for starting the car and not for sustaining engine operation.

2. Alternator or Generator Power: Once the engine was running, the alternator or generator provided electrical power. As long as the alternator was functioning properly, it could supply enough current to keep the ignition system operational, even if the battery was dead or disconnected.

3. Simpler Electrical Systems: Unlike modern vehicles that rely heavily on electronic control units (ECUs), fuel injectors, and sensors, older vehicles operated with fewer electrical demands. This made it easier for the alternator to handle all necessary power needs without a functioning battery.

Risks of Running Without a Battery

While it was technically possible for these vehicles to run with a dead or disconnected battery, it wasn’t ideal:

• Voltage Spikes: Without the battery acting as a buffer, the alternator could produce voltage spikes that might damage electrical components.

• Dimming Lights and Accessories: The alternator’s performance could vary with engine speed, potentially causing inconsistent power delivery to lights or accessories.

• Stalling Risk: If the alternator or generator failed, the engine would stall since there would be no power for the ignition system.

In summary, older vehicles could run with a dead battery because of their simpler mechanical and electrical systems, but it wasn’t a perfect or risk-free situation.

 

[Bill G]

#4 is the key. The label says it's made in China, so apparently it's the potentially defective Camel battery.

FWIW, I'm still using the BT. Also checking and recording the voltage a few hours after it's been driven. We pop the hood when we get back home so I do not have to open the driver's door later. So it's a good 'at rest' measurement. It's been consistently good at about 12.60 to 12.70V+.

Of course in this case, none of that matters. The Camel batteries can test good and then fail 15 minutes later while driving down the highway -- with a couple 80,000 lb. semis close behind.

Question -- in ye olden days, once started, cars could continue to run with a dead battery -- or *no* battery. From the NHTSA PDF I gather that is not the case with the BS. Does anyone know why that is?

Probably computers controlling/monitoring every thing “under God” <lol>

 

[sajohnson]

Double check another way to verify it’s a Chinese Camel battery - I’ve had to provide corrections to ChatGPT (typically on calculations) - ChatGPT does provide some amount of incorrect information

About your question - more ChatGPT info:

Yes, older vehicles, particularly those with carbureted engines and mechanical fuel pumps, could often run with a dead battery once started. This was possible because these vehicles relied on simpler, mechanical systems rather than the electronic control systems used in modern cars. Here’s how they managed it:

1. Mechanical Ignition Systems: Older cars typically used a mechanical distributor with points and a coil to generate spark for the engine. Once the engine was started, the alternator (or generator in very old models) produced electricity to power the ignition system and other electrical components. The battery was primarily needed for starting the car and not for sustaining engine operation.

2. Alternator or Generator Power: Once the engine was running, the alternator or generator provided electrical power. As long as the alternator was functioning properly, it could supply enough current to keep the ignition system operational, even if the battery was dead or disconnected.

3. Simpler Electrical Systems: Unlike modern vehicles that rely heavily on electronic control units (ECUs), fuel injectors, and sensors, older vehicles operated with fewer electrical demands. This made it easier for the alternator to handle all necessary power needs without a functioning battery.

Risks of Running Without a Battery

While it was technically possible for these vehicles to run with a dead or disconnected battery, it wasn’t ideal:

• Voltage Spikes: Without the battery acting as a buffer, the alternator could produce voltage spikes that might damage electrical components.

• Dimming Lights and Accessories: The alternator’s performance could vary with engine speed, potentially causing inconsistent power delivery to lights or accessories.

• Stalling Risk: If the alternator or generator failed, the engine would stall since there would be no power for the ignition system.

In summary, older vehicles could run with a dead battery because of their simpler mechanical and electrical systems, but it wasn’t a perfect or risk-free situation.

The info about older engines having carbs; single coil/distributor/points & condenser ignition; and mechanical fuel pumps is accurate of course.

The risks are all real also.

What I'm not sold on is the idea that all of the new-fangled e-lectronic systems are too much for the alternator to handle. If that were the case -- if the alternator could not keep up with the demand -- then the battery would have to supplement the alternator and it would be discharged.

The alternator in the BS BL is rated at 180 amps. If that isn't enough, something's seriously wrong!

 

[DWG]

I had Auto Zone Test the Battery Today and he said the Cold Cranking Amps was right on 700 like the Battery is Rated at but the Battery Charge was only at 25%!! So i put the Charger on it for 3 Hours and took it off when i left for Work which is only about a 15 minute drive.

This is what my EFB battery was doing. Cold cranking was good but SOC was 67 percent so dealer replaced the battery with an AGM battery. The battery was only 10 months old and 3400 miles.

But mine is a 24 and is not included in the recall. Looks like maybe 24's should be. Just happy it was replaced with an AGM.

 

[wireman]

https://carbuzz.com/video/recall-ford-bronco-sport-maverick-12v-battery/

 

[Ozzy]

I just received notice of a recall on my ‘22 Bronco Sport:

Jan 17,2025
Manufacturer Recall Number25S02
NHTSA Recall Number25V019
Recall StatusRecall Incomplete, remedy not yet available
SummaryON YOUR VEHICLE, THE 12-VOLT BATTERY MAY EXPERIENCE INTERNAL WELD AND OR CAST-ON-STRAP FAILURES, WHICH COULD LEAD TO A SUDDEN BATTERY DEGRADATION WHILE DRIVING.

Safety RiskIF THE BATTERY SUDDENLY DEGRADES DURING A DRIVE, YOUR VEHICLE MAY BE UNABLE TO RESTART AFTER AN AUTO STOPSTART EVENT OR EXPERIENCE A STALL WHILE COMING TO A STOP AT LOW SPEED. EITHER OF THESE CONDITIONS MAY BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LOSS OF ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING HAZARD LIGHTS. A LOSS OF MOTIVE POWER CAN INCREASE THE RISK OF A CRASH. WHEN THE REMEDY IS AVAILABLE, FORD MOTOR COMPANY WILL SEND A LETTER TO INFORM YOU TO CONTACT YOUR DEALER TO SCHEDULE A REPAIR. FORD HAS NOT ISSUED INSTRUCTIONS TO STOP DRIVING YOUR VEHICLE UNDER THIS SAFETY RECALL. WHEN THE REMEDY IS AVAILABLE, YOU SHOULD CONTACT YOUR DEALER FOR AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE YOUR VEHICLE REMEDIED AS SOON AS PRACTICABLE.

RemedyPARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE. FORD MOTOR COMPANY IS WORKING TO PROVIDE PARTS FOR THIS REPAIR. WHEN THE REMEDY BECOMES AVAILABLE, FORD MOTOR COMPANY WILL NOTIFY YOU VIA MAIL TO SCHEDULE A SERVICE APPOINTMENT WITH YOUR DEALER FOR REPAIRS TO BE COMPLETED FREE OF CHARGE. THE REMEDY IS ANTICIPATED TO BE AVAILABLE Q2 2025.

Manufacturer's NotesTO CHECK FOR NON-SAFETY-RELATED PROGRAMS APPLICABLE TO YOUR VEHICLE, SEE HTTP://WWW.FORD.COM/ OR CALL YOUR FORD DEALER.

Does anyone have a copy of the ford recall stating build dates etc

 

[cprcubed]

Does anyone have a copy of the ford recall stating build dates etc

The notice I got via the FordPass app isn't too specific. From the document attached in post #18 by wireman: "The suspect 12V batteries were introduced into production on February 5, 2020, and removed from production on October 20, 2022. These vehicles are not produced in VIN order." I suggest reading the entire document for specifics. Cheers!

 

[Mark S.]

The alternator in the BS BL is rated at 180 amps. If that isn't enough, something's seriously wrong!

Agreed. It's not about overwhelming the alternator, it's about the way the BMS manages alternator output. Meeting consumer demand to get the best possible fuel economy means limiting the amount of engine power needed for accessories like the alternator. If the BMS limits alternator output then it requires less engine power to operate.

 

[Mwittke5857]

Agreed. It's not about overwhelming the alternator, it's about the way the BMS manages alternator output. Meeting consumer demand to get the best possible fuel economy means limiting the amount of engine power needed for accessories like the alternator. If the BMS limits alternator output then it requires less engine power to operate.

as Ive said b4, if fuel economy was my main concern, Ida bought a Prius

 

[strckerie]

We got the battery recall notice today via Ford Pass App and Carfax for our 2021 BS BB.
We replaced the battery ourselves August 2024 after reading comments on this forum about battery issues.
We had record snowfalls last fall, and windchills in the minus teens recently, and the BS started every time for us with no battery tender.

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