Transceiver Installation thread (Ham, CB, GMRS). Radio unit and antenna installation on Bronco Sport

[kilofoxfive]

Installed a Yaesu FTM-6000R in my Heritage Edition this past weekend. Transceiver in one of the compartments in the foam surrounding the spare tire, ProClip mounts for control head and mic holder, and a glass mount antenna. No holes drilled.

Where did you tap for power?

 

[Smith]

In the spirit of keeping this info on a single thread, I'm going to post what I did here but if it needs to be moved, I'm happy to do so.

Thanks to everyone who's posted already - it was really helpful when I started mine.

I was gifted a Midland MXT275 radio and I went with the 3dB Ghost Antenna because I figured it was better than the magnetic mount and would still let me go into parking garages. I got my GMRS license, but I'm coming from the old handheld walkies so this is quite an upgrade for me and I'm a newbie on this system. We pretty much use these radios when we're traveling on group camping trips, but I wanted this more or less permanently mounted in the car.

I opted to use a roll bar/mirror mount from Midland for my Ghost Antenna.

So, there is some rubber trim that goes along side the roof rail. I fed the cable into that channel and pushed it down inside. To get the trim to lie flat again where the cable comes out up towards the antenna, I did make a small slit in the trim. As I fed the antenna wiring in the channel towards the windshield, where the roof bends down to the windshield I found this small plastic tab that I saw no particular purpose for - perhaps as a spacer or to support the trim as it goes over the bend, although my trim was pretty tight already - but that tab was big enough to prevent me from pushing the wire down in the channel. I went back and forth on this, but finally I trimmed off the edge of that so I could push the antenna cable down in the channel. That let the trim lie flat again. It seems to be working okay - trim lies flat and is meeting the other side of the channel. Once I reached the windshield, I fed the antenna cable along the windshield edge to go into the engine bay.

From there, I fed the cable in towards the driver's door. I debated about going through the engine bay grommet behind the battery, but I couldn't clearly see how the antenna cable would come in by the brake pedal (I feel like one needs to be a contortionist to see under the dash in this vehicle - my only gripe about this car so far haha) so that made me a little nervous. Thus - the door route won.

NVSport mentioned on a firewall penetration thread a grommet on the driver's side door that could be used as an access point into the cabin. So I was able to pop that grommet out, and I used a long zip tie to come up from the driver's footwell up through the hole where that grommet is. I couldn't get a picture under the dash of that - I basically kind of carefully stuck my hand up along the inside until I felt an opening on the metal frame there. Here's a picture of the zip tie coming out of the hole (sorry, my car was not spotless when I did this).

From there, I basically cut a hole in the grommet and fed the antenna cable through so I could reinstall the grommet (first picture below is the wire in the grommet, second is what it looks like reinstalled). Taped the antenna cable to the zip tie with masking tape, and pulled the wiring through into the driver's footwell.

I sealed around the hole with some RTV silicone to keep water from entering the hole. I kept the sealant just on the grommet so if I ever need to pull that cable (or add anything) I can just get a new grommet from the parts counter and replace it.

I then fed the antenna cable behind the brake/gas pedals and behind the climate control module over to the passenger side - I secured the antenna cable with zip ties so it shouldn't interfere with anything - and then routed it behind and into the glove box which is where I plan to put my receiver. I haven't installed that yet because I am planning to use a fuse tap to power the radio (the fuse box is conveniently located on the passenger side footwell) and I want to solder the wires rather than rely on crimping. I have a cat5 extender and I'm going to feed that from the glove box to below the climate control panel and just use mounting tape to affix it there to plug the radio in. I'll add pictures of that when I finish that up (hopefully this week).

Hopefully this is helpful to someone like the other posts were helpful for me!

Thanks for the tip on routing the antenna cable. Using your advice I was able to run the cable for my CB radio into my 2023 Bronco Sport Heritage Edition.

 

[EARLSAYS]

Here’s my GMRS for now - I need to mount the head unit somewhere, and maybe hardwire it to the fuse box

 

[Ecom911]

Here’s my GMRS for now - I need to mount the head unit somewhere, and maybe hardwire it to the fuse box

Just an observation; have you confirmed the rail or your mount is properly grounded? Otherwise you risk high SWR and may damage the radio unless the antenna is a half-wave and ground independent

 

[EARLSAYS]

Just an observation; have you confirmed the rail or your mount is properly grounded? Otherwise you risk high SWR and may damage the radio unless the antenna is a half-wave and ground independent

here's the mount:

https://midlandusa.com/products/micromobilemxta23-roll-bar-mirror-mounting-bracket?variant=39972344529073&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADAFdQi65Y-pSM9-9CSd_wZpaFV9P&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7NO7BhDsARIsADg_hIYuWlm6NylLFv3hykZFjW6FQDwwoUV2zV3Zgh76OUixNWAmsMva2z0aAqYkEALw_wcB

here's the antenna:

https://www.amazon.com/Midland-Antenna-Durable-Connection-MicroMobile/dp/B084BPXNC5/ref=asc_df_B084BPXNC5?mcid=9a4f8d90549c321fb29bb0eb020c207d&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693591422052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3027826654057670367&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027792&hvtargid=pla-882691987560&psc=1

here's the cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Midland-MXTA24-Antenna-Connector-MicroMobile/dp/B0842B1WFS/ref=asc_df_B0842B1WFS?mcid=e8bab64ef6d931128ceb33993495d5d4&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693769126988&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1669726240286274811&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027792&hvtargid=pla-899516697595&psc=1

 

[EARLSAYS]

My $2.90 solution to getting into the garage without removing the antenna.

 

[Quashish]

necessity the mother of invention

 

[lil moe]

Nice job

 

[EARLSAYS]

 

[20PennyTyler]

Today I installed my radio under the driver seat like I have seen many of you do. I Velcro mounted the control head into the little cubby below the infotainment screen. I removed the screen and drilled a small hole into the plastic that is the ceiling of that little cubby. From there, I fed two Ethernet cables through the dash and down to the bottom trim piece of the center console. I drill a 1 inch hole and installed a rj45 bulkhead. This is for the hand mic, the other Ethernet cable runs to under the seat connected the main unit to the control head. I want to power the radio from the vehicles battery, through the firewall grommet to the unit under the driver seat.

Any solid tips on powering the radio that way? I have the correct gauge wire with inline fuses, but I’m worried about properly grounding and the battery monitoring system. Do I just go to the battery negative? Is there a recommended place for the positive to go to not mess with the BMS? Thanks

 

[Ecom911]

Today I installed my radio under the driver seat like I have seen many of you do. I Velcro mounted the control head into the little cubby below the infotainment screen. I removed the screen and drilled a small hole into the plastic that is the ceiling of that little cubby. From there, I fed two Ethernet cables through the dash and down to the bottom trim piece of the center console. I drill a 1 inch hole and installed a rj45 bulkhead. This is for the hand mic, the other Ethernet cable runs to under the seat connected the main unit to the control head. I want to power the radio from the vehicles battery, through the firewall grommet to the unit under the driver seat.

Any solid tips on powering the radio that way? I have the correct gauge wire with inline fuses, but I’m worried about properly grounding and the battery monitoring system. Do I just go to the battery negative? Is there a recommended place for the positive to go to not mess with the BMS? Thanks

Nice install! I did something similar with my Icom ID-880H for head location. My xcvr is in under the rear deck by the spare tire.

Good choice on running the power direct to the battery. I have done the same and used a 50amp disconnect breaker in the engine compartment to run heavier cables to a fuse panel for some other accessories and a ground point for the negatives as well. This way the electronic can be disconnected for any boosting if required and protects the feed as well.

This type of design should not interfere with any of the vehicle systems and is generally accepted by Ford's up-fitting guidelines. The Sport has accessible connection points you can tie into on the battery terminals and an easily accessible firewall grommet for f the feeds, you shouldn't have any issues.

Happy trails and QSO's!

 

[kshaw]

The galvanic corrosion issue is really one that has been hyped up more than it needs to be. The aluminum Ford models CAN have such an issue - but is mitigated by the fact that said body panels are coated in a type of electrostatic zinc coating. Add an NMO mount like the Larsen NMOKHFUD which is zinc/nickel coated over the brass... the point becomes moot.

The biggest thing to ensure in ham radio installs that can lead to some... weird... issues is some Yaesu/Kenwood radios love to put a fuse on the ground side of the power wire. Clip that out and you'll never have a possible voltage issue of any sort. The issue I have personally seen is the ground wire fuse will blow... and the radio will use the RF ground as the new DC ground. No bueno.

As for location of drilling - I am looking at the one I just picked up because I will be installing my radios back in this vehicle as soon as possible. My thought is either going to be an NMO straight into the roof about 18-20" from the shark-fin antenna, or I might just run a fender mount off the front so I can run a taller antenna like the Comet SAR model without making the Bronco look like an RC car.

My install will end up being a surplus Sti-Co multiplexer, a Motorola XTL5000 110w VHF, and a Motorola XPR5550 50w UHF. Both are on handheld control heads which I will be (hopefully) finding a decent mounting solution for.

Galvanic corrosion is a real issue typically caused by using dissimilar metals. If aluminum has not been treated, I like to paint with zinc chromate. You will not see these paints in a retail store but available from aviation suppliers. I also use ACF-50 to kill and prevent corrosion.

 

[NavyBOFH]

Galvanic corrosion is a real issue typically caused by using dissimilar metals. If aluminum has not been treated, I like to paint with zinc chromate. You will not see these paints in a retail store but available from aviation suppliers. I also use ACF-50 to kill and prevent corrosion.

Correct - my point was that Ford paints the panels with such a coating so the worst you'd have is where you drilled a hole... but the NMO mount is treated as well with a similar coating.

I have drilled into a few Aluminum F150s running 100+ watt radios for years with no issue. I also was part of why a certain major manufacturer of radio equipment has it in their installer manuals now.

 

[NavyBOFH]

Just realized I never followed up on this post with my install - but this has been in the vehicle for a while, long enough for the LCD to generate a line in it and need to source a replacement. Ignore the general mess - haven't gotten all the detailing stuff out for the season.

Used a ditch light mount from FordRangerLifts.com and drilled out to 3/4" for a thick-mount Pulse-Larsen NMO kit. A Larsen tri-band antenna off the mount which is very much a compromise but allows parking garages and such without having to fold an antenna down or remove it. It and a 8GA power run from the battery run through the firewall grommet and into the passenger side footwell area. Where the OE fuse panel is I added a Blue Sea fuse block and modified the plastic Ford cover for everything to fit. Radio is a Harris XG100M 50w mobile that does everything I would want a single radio to do, mic on a Magnetic Mic on the transmission tunnel, speaker is tucked down in the passenger footwell. Radio deck is under the passenger's seat, head was mounted by bending some flat strip metal to the shape of the cutout and drilling a couple of holes with fender washers on the underside of the plastic to bolt everything together safely.

Surprisingly decent coverage from the setup but I will likely try something non-ground plane next to lessen the mounting location's issues, but past doing a Panorama "shark fin" mount and all the tearing apart/reassembling the vehicle to run all the cables... this is the next best option. On the bright side if I ever decide to remove the radio, everything comes out of the vehicle within 30 minutes and the little rubber mat for the cubby area I drilled into goes right back in to cover up the few holes I did make.

 

[20PennyTyler]

Update on my Install. I did the same as @NavyBOFH and used the same ditch light bracket from Ford Ranger lifts on the driver side. My NMO was 3/8 so I did not have to drill the hole larger. The coax easily routes into the engine bay and cleanly makes its way down to the grommet and into the cab below the steering column and gets tucked under the trim. It pops out under the seat right to the radio. Power is from the vehicles battery through the same grommet but into a APO3 from APRSWORLD.COM. The APO3 is like an inline relay and allowed me to avoid wiring over to the passenger side fuse panel. You can use the dip switches to set the voltage so when the battery isn't putting out 13.1 volts or more, it trigger the relay and cuts power to the radio. You can also set a time delay between 0-20minutes. This is a great feature because I quickly realized the voltage will drop below the 13.1 volts for a second if you turn the heated seats, key up your radio on high power etc. So the time delay eliminates the radio turning off if there is a brief voltage drop. So far so good. The radio turns on when I turn on the vehicle, and the radio turns off 5 minutes after I turn the car off.

The ditch light antenna location definitely calls for the NGP style antenna. I have some on the way to try out. I am getting 1.3:1 SWR on 2m but 3.1:1 on 70CM. So I'm thinking about using the other ditch light mount on the passenger side for a designated 70CM NGP. Rugged Radio has a NGP antenna that claims it is good for 406-470MHz so that could be good for the 440 and GMRS bands. Im going to test using the two antennas and through a diplexer before an actual install.