NMhunter

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When I worked for the Forest Service, my fleet manager told me the biggest cause of sludge and gunk in your engine is starting it up and running it a few minutes and shuting it off. When I start a vehilcle, I run it until is is fully warmed up. I do quite a few low speed trips of less than 5 miles, but I mix it up with freeway driving and trips.

I've run synthetic oil in all of my vehicles for 30 years. I read an article where they ran a big rig 1,000,000 miles on synthetic oil (but changed filters). Oil was still good at end of test. I change my oil once a year whether it needs it or not. My Jeep Liberty diesel turbo has 168,000 miles on it with no engine issues.

I may send Blackstone a sample before my next oil change. My dealer Melloy Ford in Los Lunas, NM gave me 4 free oil changes.

Could fuel blow by be caused by the rings not being fully seated on a new vehicle? I've read that you shouldn't run synthetic until the engine is well broken in.
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CaptainNedVT

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Ah, tribology. If y'all think this is uncivil, you should try Subie turbo forums or BITOG.

Run full syn. If your usual drives last at least 30 mins, any fuel will burn off. Blackstone on my '16 Forester XT showed 5% fuel after startup and 2 miles to the shop. Same brand oil/filter with a 30 minute highway drive was well within their green range at the next OC 5K miles later. It's just how pure GDI engines work.

If you can find an oil that meets Ford warranty specs AND cites HT/HS specs, look for 3.5 or better.
 

69cuda340s

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Was this based on a lab test or eyeballing it?
I think he said he could smell fuel?

Over on the F150 forums there have been ecoboost engines where oil level rises on the dip stick over time and smells of gas. Luckily my '16 F150 3.5 ecoboost doesn't have that problem but it has happened on some of them.
 

Mark S.

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I think he said he could smell fuel?
He posted a lab report. The lab said, "the viscosity is a little low and there is some fuel (1.0%), but neither is concerning at this level." This was at 4,800 miles.

If it were mine I would run it all the way to the factory-recommended interval and test it again. My guess is everything would still be within acceptable limits.
 

69cuda340s

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He posted a lab report. The lab said, "the viscosity is a little low and there is some fuel (1.0%), but neither is concerning at this level." This was at 4,800 miles.

If it were mine I would run it all the way to the factory-recommended interval and test it again. My guess is everything would still be within acceptable limits.
Yeah every internal combustion engine new old turbo non turbo they all get some fuel in oil pistons rings never 100 percent seal. But direct injected turbo more prone to that problem. Ford been working hard for long long time to minimize fuel in oil issues.
 


thekingprawn

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I got my first service done today (I purchased the service plan), and even though the tires were rotated they were not filled. Since those asshats filled my tires with N2 I can't just top them off at my convenience, so I'm thinking I should find another dealer to service my vehicle.
 

Meanderthal

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I got my first service done today (I purchased the service plan), and even though the tires were rotated they were not filled. Since those asshats filled my tires with N2 I can't just top them off at my convenience, so I'm thinking I should find another dealer to service my vehicle.
No reason you can’t just put air in with the Nitrogen, other than ”wasting” the money spent for that Nitrogen.
 
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Mark S.

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Since those asshats filled my tires with N2 I can't just top them off at my convenience, so I'm thinking I should find another dealer to service my vehicle.
You've discovered the best argument against filling tires with nitrogen. Unless you have your own bottle it's a PITA to use only nitrogen.

BTW, it won't hurt a thing to use air to refill your tires. You'll only be replacing a very small percentage of the total volume, and it will likely take longer than the life of the tires to dilute the nitrogen enough to eliminate all benefit of the original fill.
 
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thekingprawn

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No reason you can’t just put air in with the Nitrogen, other than ”wasting” the money spent for that Nitrogen.
Technically it was free, even though money is fungible. The dealership did the N2 and paint protection that they "do to all new vehicles" and tried to charge me $500 for it. This was the part of the process where I was told to calm down and was given $500 worth of accessories of my choosing to compensate for them "adding options to my vehicle I did not explicitly authorize." I went full Karen for the buying experience. As part of the N2 accessory I get it refilled free for 2 years, so by gods they will effing top off the damn tires every single time they drop so much as 1 psi. If it wasn't a 35 minute drive I'd be there way more frequently.
 


69cuda340s

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I got my first service done today (I purchased the service plan), and even though the tires were rotated they were not filled. Since those asshats filled my tires with N2 I can't just top them off at my convenience, so I'm thinking I should find another dealer to service my vehicle.
If a dealer claimed N2 was put in tires, hmmm, should we trust that it was actually done? Yeah I would trust what the dealer tells me yes....
 

Warren505

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One thing I noticed is the oil drain plug is in the front of the pan. When the car is on ramps or jacked up in the front only some of the oil flows to the back of the pan and will not drain. I had to jack the car up, remove the ramps and lower the car to completely drain the oil.
Good info and another reason NOT to do my own oil changes in my road cars
 

Warren505

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When I worked for the Forest Service, my fleet manager told me the biggest cause of sludge and gunk in your engine is starting it up and running it a few minutes and shuting it off. When I start a vehilcle, I run it until is is fully warmed up. I do quite a few low speed trips of less than 5 miles, but I mix it up with freeway driving and trips.

I've run synthetic oil in all of my vehicles for 30 years. I read an article where they ran a big rig 1,000,000 miles on synthetic oil (but changed filters). Oil was still good at end of test. I change my oil once a year whether it needs it or not. My Jeep Liberty diesel turbo has 168,000 miles on it with no engine issues.

I may send Blackstone a sample before my next oil change. My dealer Melloy Ford in Los Lunas, NM gave me 4 free oil changes.

Could fuel blow by be caused by the rings not being fully seated on a new vehicle? I've read that you shouldn't run synthetic until the engine is well broken in.
100% agree with your fleet manager, drive vehicule immediately you start up, idle warming up is bad for all engines, engines need to get to operating temp asap but do it gently , limit rpm to 3500 etc. ( if weather conditions require warm up that different).
Diesels are 10x worse if warmed up too slowly.
( cold engine have incorrect tolerances, possible cold blow by and can lead to sludge , gummed up rings and oil galleries, warm gently underload, i.e. driving, for fastest warm up and least engine damage).
Synthetic oil full/blend seems to come in new cars now. The old breaking on conventional oil no longer applies , mainly due to better engineering , tolerances , fuel management etc. also When carburetors went away most of cold engine problems went with then too.
Yes big rigs run many more miles per oil changes, but have you seen how much oil the have( gallons) and the size and quantity of the filters, 3 or more on some. Some operators would also get oil test, if ok just change filters. But we are talking diesels and engine that are maintained at operating temp for long periods of time.

The other general comment I have is synthetic oil was developed to extend oil change intervals. Dealers like short intervals for the revenue , but I have never gone less than 5000k between oil change on synthetic oil. But I drove a lot too. If I was doing short daily shopping trips I would us conventional and change every 3k.
Good discussion when we stay on topic😜
Warren
 

Bucko

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When I worked for the Forest Service, my fleet manager told me the biggest cause of sludge and gunk in your engine is starting it up and running it a few minutes and shuting it off. When I start a vehilcle, I run it until is is fully warmed up. I do quite a few low speed trips of less than 5 miles, but I mix it up with freeway driving and trips.

I've run synthetic oil in all of my vehicles for 30 years. I read an article where they ran a big rig 1,000,000 miles on synthetic oil (but changed filters). Oil was still good at end of test. I change my oil once a year whether it needs it or not. My Jeep Liberty diesel turbo has 168,000 miles on it with no engine issues.

I may send Blackstone a sample before my next oil change. My dealer Melloy Ford in Los Lunas, NM gave me 4 free oil changes.

Could fuel blow by be caused by the rings not being fully seated on a new vehicle? I've read that you shouldn't run synthetic until the engine is well broken in.
Full synthetic has been supplied to many cars right off the factory assembly; Corvettes for one, and many others.

The reason for most that start off with semi-synthetic is due to it being a great oil and cost effective for the average driver and their mileage. It amazes me how many folks will run full synthetic oil and change it after 3 to 5K, thinking they are doing their engine a great service; they are only doing their wallet great service to keep it empty. Semi synthetic is great for 5K oil changes, even longer if you are not hard on the engine. Should you run full synthetic, it can go well over the 5K interval, as long as you use a quality oil filter too. Fords oil filters are good quality filters for the task.

In years past, lots of oil sludge buildup was due to the paraffin (wax) oil base that was used.
 

Warren505

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Parrifin wax eh?, always wonders what that sludge was made of.
Fun story , my first motorcycle a BSA , had a dry sump with an external oil tank , it was old , I would check the oil and could see the level which I topped up regularly of course as it leaked out the bottom! Came to do an oil change a few weeks later I drained the oil but only got about a pint instead of the 3 quarts the books said.
Came to find out after removing the oiltank that I it probably haddn't had a full oil change in years! The tank was almost completely full of sludge! The poor little oil pump was pulling what little oil it could find around the engine! Sludge is a real think! Cheers Warren
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