Retrofit CoPilot 360 Assist + Possible?

[Mark S.]

Hi all!

I am new to the forum and first time writing on a forum, I got my 22 Badlands in June. Since then I did some modifications including changing the climate control panel, and Forscan programming.

Since this is my first Ford vehicle, I am still learning.

I am working to install ACC to my Bronco Sport.

Thank you My42waffles for pointing the right direction to get parts. I managed to get the steering wheel control, front sensor and the bracket.

Here is the photo of the Steering wheel button.

However the ACC harness includes two parts. The first one is 14290A and the second one is 12A522

Attached is the wiring photo

I took apart the front of the car to check, in order to change the 12A522 wire, I need to take apart the radiator. I didn't get the harness.

So I made my own harness, Cat6 cable for Can High and Can Low, and 20AWG Automotive cable for power. Fortunately, when I got my sensor from a junkyard, I managed to get the connector with the sensor.

I am now connecting the sensor directly to IPMA above the interior rearview mirror.

Right now I have all the hardware wired up and installed

Here is a photo of the sensor (Pardon me for the awful wiring, I will take the front apart again, label things up, do proper waterproofing to the wire, take some photo and tidy things up)

I did cut out a slot to fit the bracket. Thankfully, there are existing marks on the cover, So I followed the mark to cut it out.

I don't have the sensor cover right now, I ordered it but it takes a long time to get here. When the sensor cover comes, I will cut out the center to fit the cover nicely.

After contacting Forscan Team, I managed to get a test version of Forscan to do Front Sensor Calibration.

Below is a picture of when I am doing a calibration early this morning, you want a straight road and a constant speed above 30mph. I used Ford's calibration document to do it. The calibration took me around 15 minutes to complete. And the warning message disappeared from the cluster. I also cleared the DTCs.

I am still in the process, the system is not fully working right now, I have managed to fully program the APIM, BCM, SCCM, IPC, and CCM.

The IPMA and ABS are finished yet since I have a cheap OBD cable, that might be the cause. I am waiting for my OBDLink EX to arrive today, then I will give it another go.

For the IPMA, I am not sure if my module has the capability to do it. Right now, if I enable ACC in IMPA, the front camera will stop working.

I don't know the module part number for cars equipped with CoPilot 360+ Assist, if somebody can help with that I am greatly appreciated it. My IPMA is M1PT-19H406-CD

Here is a photo of the Instrument Cluster with ACC programmed.

Currently, I cannot program the ABS, so I am actively contacting Forscan to figure out if that's a software limitation or a hardware limitation.

For the ABS itself, I know that my unit doesn't have an electronic booster. That means Stop & Go will not work properly or even the entire thing will not work. If that's the final roadblock I will figure out how to change the ABS module.

Now my vehicle with the new stuff installed, the normal cruise control still works. The buttons on the steering wheel control all work properly. I just disabled the ACC on my Drive Assist page for now.

When I figure out everything and make it work, I will do a proper write-up for this project.

Cheers!

Your car likely has both a vacuum-powered brake booster (US driver's side of firewall) and a separate ABS module (US passenger side of firewall). I believe cars with 360+ use a brake booster that incorporates ABS, all in a single module. In addition, I believe cars equipped with 360+ also tie in to the factory navigation system, so if you don't have that installed you may run into further programming issues.

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[nih96]

Your car likely has both a vacuum-powered brake booster (US driver's side of firewall) and a separate ABS module (US passenger side of firewall). I believe cars with 360+ use a brake booster that incorporates ABS, all in a single module. In addition, I believe cars equipped with 360+ also tie in to the factory navigation system, so if you don't have that installed you may run into further programming issues.

Yes, Nav is needed in order for Traffic Sign Recognition to work. I am planning to do that very soon.

But I manage to make ACC work with the vacuum ABS Booster.

The system all works fine now on my car, However I realize that engaging parking brake will cause cruise control system to shut down.

And I also contacted forscan Team. seems like Bronco Sport only allow you to program to ACC with Stop and Go. Cannot program to regular ACC.

I think the best way to solve it is to replace the ABS. I will do it when I figure out all the parts I need. I'm not sure if it's doable at all because factory harness may not work.

But for Nav, I already order the APIM. When it arrives, I will replace it.

 

[nih96]

Update!

I managed to make the Traffic Sign Recognition work without the NAV APIM. And Upon some testing, the Intelligent cruise control will work with the TSR info and control the speed.

There are 3 choices in the IPMA TSR setting: Disable, Camera Only, and Fusion (Map Data + Camera Data). I am currently using Fusion. I do not have a NAV currently, the IPMA cannot get data from NAV, so it uses the camera data for the speed.

And upon checking with the Forscan team, the non-electronic boosted ABS module in Bronco Sport only supports the following functions:

1 - Without Cruise Control
2 - Cruise Control
4 - ACC Stop&Go

Although Bronco Sport is on the same platform as Escape and Maverick, option 3 - ACC is not supported on Bronco Sport.

As for the ACC shut down by Parking Brake, right now my process to solve is

1. Turn on the car (Press the Start Stop button without pressing the brake)
2. Disengage parking brake
3. Turn off the car
4. Turn on the car
5. Turn off the car
6. Start Engine

Basically is to do two cycles of turn on/off and then start the engine.

As I only use ACC for long highway driving, this is not something bothers me a lot. My old vehicle do not have any of these features, so this is fine for me.

The cost breakdown of this project:

Front Sensor w/pigtail : $250 (Used)
Front Bracket Part # M1PZ14C022A: $73
Steering Wheel Control Switch Part # M1PZ9C888AA: $82
100 FT Cat 6 Wire: $25
Automotive Wire: $20

So the total is $450 (Exclude materials electrical tape, cable sleeves etc.)

If add in the NAV upgrade and ABS pump, that's another $1500

I think it is more expensive than purchasing it from Ford when you config the vehicle.

But if you only want to spend the money on ACC but not the NAV and ABS pump, $450 is not that bad.

I bought my Badlands from a dealer's lot since there is only one Badlands in my area. I don't want to wait a long time for an ordered one. But that's just my choice...

I am currently doing some cleanup, and documenting everything, will post a detailed process soon if anyone is interested to use some elbow grease.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

Update!

I managed to make the Traffic Sign Recognition work without the NAV APIM. And Upon some testing, the Intelligent cruise control will work with the TSR info and control the speed.

There are 3 choices in the IPMA TSR setting: Disable, Camera Only, and Fusion (Map Data + Camera Data). I am currently using Fusion. I do not have a NAV currently, the IPMA cannot get data from NAV, so it uses the camera data for the speed.

And upon checking with the Forscan team, the non-electronic boosted ABS module in Bronco Sport only supports the following functions:

1 - Without Cruise Control
2 - Cruise Control
4 - ACC Stop&Go

Although Bronco Sport is on the same platform as Escape and Maverick, option 3 - ACC is not supported on Bronco Sport.

As for the ACC shut down by Parking Brake, right now my process to solve is

1. Turn on the car (Press the Start Stop button without pressing the brake)
2. Disengage parking brake
3. Turn off the car
4. Turn on the car
5. Turn off the car
6. Start Engine

Basically is to do two cycles of turn on/off and then start the engine.

As I only use ACC for long highway driving, this is not something bothers me a lot. My old vehicle do not have any of these features, so this is fine for me.

The cost breakdown of this project:

Front Sensor w/pigtail : $250 (Used)
Front Bracket Part # M1PZ14C022A: $73
Steering Wheel Control Switch Part # M1PZ9C888AA: $82
100 FT Cat 6 Wire: $25
Automotive Wire: $20

So the total is $450 (Exclude materials electrical tape, cable sleeves etc.)

If add in the NAV upgrade and ABS pump, that's another $1500

I think it is more expensive than purchasing it from Ford when you config the vehicle.

But if you only want to spend the money on ACC but not the NAV and ABS pump, $450 is not that bad.

I bought my Badlands from a dealer's lot since there is only one Badlands in my area. I don't want to wait a long time for an ordered one. But that's just my choice...

I am currently doing some cleanup, and documenting everything, will post a detailed process soon if anyone is interested to use some elbow grease.

Sounds like a worthwhile mod for you. Many on here are spending way more than that for less than for a couple of inches of lift and tires which in many cases will never be needed.

 

[nih96]

Sounds like a worthwhile mod for you. Many on here are spending way more than that for less than for a couple of inches of lift and tires which in many cases will never be needed.

Couple inches of lift is still an good thing to invest!

For me, the stock height is perfect for daily driving and some light offroading.

The ACC Just add a peace of mind for me, I do not want it to replace my attention on road.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

Couple inches of lift is still an good thing to invest!

For me, the stock height is perfect for daily driving and some light offroading.

The ACC Just add a peace of mind for me, I do not want it to replace my attention on road.

You are correct, there can be some fairly large curbs at the local malls. We’ve already seen the damage on here that one has done in stock form!

Personally, I don’t see a lot of value in lifting less than a couple of inches. The bottoms of these cars are not very well protected and many trails at least where I travel are fully rutted and unless you are running 37’s, you are going to scrape or high center.

That being said, every inch will perhaps help prevent more serious damage.

 

[Mark S.]

will post a detailed process soon if anyone is interested to use some elbow grease.

Yes, please!

 

[fsjdw2]

I disagree... you could take YOUR VIN plate off, and weld it onto a new 360+ equipped model. Viola, DONE "YOUR" bronco sport has 360+... the legal implications... plus cost (of a second bronco sport) make this method prohibitive.

 

[Escape2Bronco]

Yes, Nav is needed in order for Traffic Sign Recognition to work. I am planning to do that very soon.

But I manage to make ACC work with the vacuum ABS Booster.

The system all works fine now on my car, However I realize that engaging parking brake will cause cruise control system to shut down.

And I also contacted forscan Team. seems like Bronco Sport only allow you to program to ACC with Stop and Go. Cannot program to regular ACC.

I think the best way to solve it is to replace the ABS. I will do it when I figure out all the parts I need. I'm not sure if it's doable at all because factory harness may not work.

But for Nav, I already order the APIM. When it arrives, I will replace it.

By the way, I think you are travelling too close to that full size in front of you!

 

[nih96]

By the way, I think you are travelling too close to that full size in front of you!

All the vehicle it detects is a full-size. If it can detect the full-size and BS I would be very happy

I'm just dreaming...

But, the gap 2 and 1 are pretty close according to my test, I am currently using the gap 3 setting.

 

[JohnT.106]

Is it possible to retrofit Ford CoPilot 360 Assist+? Is it just a software upgrade/unlock OR do additional sensors have to be installed as well?

I have the base model and ford told me at dealership they wouldn't even add Sirius xm so who knows.

 

[MJE]

By the way, I think you are travelling too close to that full size in front of you!

They’re not even on the closest bar. Here that’d be enough space for 2 full sizes to cut you off Good thing I’m not in LA, from what I remember of riding (not driving) around there, you’d never get anywhere with using only adaptive cruise as you’d always have everybody cutting you off!

Actually as an aside, I really like Ford’s implementation, where a quick tap on the gas will ‘cancel’ it out & save the braking to maintain following distance. To me their ACC implementation is really quite awesome. Do other makes integrate it nearly so smoothly? Or even better? Has anyone tried anything else?

 

[MJE]

All the vehicle it detects is a full-size. If it can detect the full-size and BS I would be very happy

I'm just dreaming...

But, the gap 2 and 1 are pretty close according to my test, I am currently using the gap 3 setting.

It’s funny, in city driving gap 1 is as close as you’d want to be, yet it’s enough space to allow someone to muscle their way in without your intervention to brake to allow them in (& perhaps that’s the point). Yet on highway 2 lane driving, gap 4 could almost use one farther out to really signal to drivers behind you that you’re not lined up to pass the vehicle at the head of the line. Maybe it’s me, but I tend to use either 1 or 4 depending on city traffic or country 2 lane

 

[Pigpen]

Thanks for the info. Now if I could find a CD player, I'm old school, that would work in the BS I'd be a happy camper.

I want a CD player myself. The only viable option I’ve seen is just plugging a fm transmitter into the headphone jack of a cheap player. Downside is that I can’t find a CD player you can plug into the cig lighter. They all need batteries. There’s a YouTube vid on this.

 

[max the dog]

Bought the Hott CD903TF from Amazon. Tune it to on of the FM stations. Works OK.

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