Recall Work Failed

[Bill G]

Great info!! Thanks!

btw was your OE battery the AGM as well?
And have you been driving the vehicle at least for 30 minutes at 30mph or more every couple days? (That is, not stop n go)

I just started getting the FordPass App: “Remote features disabled to preserve battery” message, twice in 3 days. I have a plug in voltmeter and i can see the voltage. Today before starting was 11.9V and dropped to 9.8V while starting. I have been driving as i stated earlier. Battery voltage is around 12.6V after driving and within 24 hours (parked) is 11.9 to 12V so is dropping voltage quickly.

Original battery was enhanced flood, not AGM. I’m retired in SG Valley, so no long drives except on trips and lots of stop-and-go.
Honestly, I was going to replace battery with enhanced flood like original. Ford quoted @ $230-240 out the door. Unfortunately, they only had AGM in stock, so slightly higher price. Since I needed it “yesterday” I couldn’t search for a better deal, and was happy to “git ‘er done”. Don’t feel my dealer screwed me like they could have under the circumstances — though, fortunately, they’ve treated me good all along (and I didn’t buy my BS from them).

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[Dude]

Original battery was enhanced flood, not AGM. I’m retired in SG Valley, so no long drives except on trips and lots of stop-and-go.
Honestly, I was going to replace battery with enhanced flood like original. Ford quoted @ $230-240 out the door. Unfortunately, they only had AGM in stock, so slightly higher price. Since I needed it “yesterday” I couldn’t search for a better deal, and was happy to “git ‘er done”. Don’t feel my dealer screwed me like they could have under the circumstances — though, fortunately, they’ve treated me good all along (and I didn’t buy my BS from them).

Thanks for the info!! I have the EFB as well and this week tried driving long distances several times to fully charge the battery but the voltage still drops quickly to just under 12V.

 

[Bill G]

Thanks for the info!! I have the EFB as well and this week tried driving long distances several times to fully charge the battery but the voltage still drops quickly to just under 12V.

Yeah, mine was fine ‘til it wasn’t . . . There’s so much draw on these batteries from the rolling computers that when they go they go fast. At least now there seems to be some warning rather than just dying at the intersection. ?

 

[Dude]

Thanks for the info!! I have the EFB as well and this week tried driving long distances several times to fully charge the battery but the voltage still drops quickly to just under 12V.

Today Ford installed a new AGM Battery under warranty.

The OE Battery had been working fine including maintaining its voltage (which is not a great test) even after 3-5 days (and more) of non-use. However, the OE Battery declined quickly in the 7 weeks following having Recall 24S24 completed. In the past week, voltage on the OE EFB Battery dropped from 12.6V to 11.8V after only 24 hours of non-use. The vehicle started up just fine but in the past week the voltage dropped to a low of 9.8V during a crank cycle which is unusual for me.

It might be just a coincidence that the OE Battery has failed to hold a charge after just 7 weeks from Recall 24S24. No way to know for sure why the battery declined quickly, could be was just its time to fail.


Recent timeline for those interested:

7/29/2024: Ford Mobile Service installed a new AGM (BAGM-48H6-760) Battery under warranty (OE Battery was the EFB). I have a ‘22 Badlands with 26,000 miles.

The OE Battery later that day failed the Load Test at the Dealership so definitely the OE battery went bad after 2.5 years of use.

Mobile Tech did not perform the Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset); so I performed this procedure.

Battery disconnect/replacement causes:
Fuel Economy: reset (long-term average)
TPMS: reset
ECU: reset, the ECU goes through a 150-250 mile drive cycle to relearn emissions info
TCU: reset, transmission relearn cycle
Reset the Menu > Select Screens (needed to restore the 7 screens I use)


06/05/2024: Ford Mobile Service tested the battery (not a load test): battery tested good then applied Recall 24S24 (BCM/PCM Configuration software update). Mileage: 25,287 miles

 

[sajohnson]

Battery disconnect/replacement causes:
Fuel Economy: reset (long-term average)
TPMS: reset
ECU: reset, the ECU goes through a 150-250 mile drive cycle to relearn emissions info
TCU: reset, transmission relearn cycle
Reset the Menu > Select Screens (needed to restore the 7 screens I use)

IDK if it'd be worth it, but a 12V battery (of any size) or a battery maintainer could be connected to the battery cables to prevent the resets.

 

[Dude]

IDK if it'd be worth it, but a 12V battery (of any size) or a battery maintainer could be connected to the battery cables to prevent the resets.

Yep but Ford tech zipped through the install quickly and professionally. Maybe took 12 - 15 minutes and with answering questions. Most of the time the resets aren’t of concern but several owners reported their 8F35 transmission failed pretty quickly after Recall 24S24 was done (which also puts the transmission into a relearn cycle).
I can live dangerously because the vehicle is within the factory warranty and I have the Ford ESP extended warranty.
Of course no one wants a failure of any type on their vehicle.

 

[sajohnson]

Yep but Ford tech zipped through the install quickly and professionally. Maybe took 12 - 15 minutes and with answering questions. Most of the time the resets aren’t of concern but several owners reported their 8F35 transmission failed pretty quickly after Recall 24S24 was done (which also puts the transmission into a relearn cycle).
I can live dangerously because the vehicle is within the factory warranty and I have the Ford ESP extended warranty.
Of course no one wants a failure of any type on their vehicle.

I was going to say something like, "Needless to say, it's too late in your situation, but in general..."

I guess I should have. In any case, I've never had to connect another 12V source, since our last new car was the 2002 WRX, delivered in the spring of 2001 -- but I've heard of people doing that.

 

[DWG]

Today Ford installed a new AGM Battery under warranty.

The OE Battery had been working fine including maintaining its voltage (which is not a great test) even after 3-5 days (and more) of non-use. However, the OE Battery declined quickly in the 7 weeks following having Recall 24S24 completed. In the past week, voltage on the OE EFB Battery dropped from 12.6V to 11.8V after only 24 hours of non-use. The vehicle started up just fine but in the past week the voltage dropped to a low of 9.8V during a crank cycle which is unusual for me.

It might be just a coincidence that the OE Battery has failed to hold a charge after just 7 weeks from Recall 24S24. No way to know for sure why the battery declined quickly, could be was just its time to fail.


Recent timeline for those interested:

7/29/2024: Ford Mobile Service installed a new AGM (BAGM-48H6-760) Battery under warranty (OE Battery was the EFB). I have a ‘22 Badlands with 26,000 miles.

The OE Battery later that day failed the Load Test at the Dealership so definitely the OE battery went bad after 2.5 years of use.

Mobile Tech did not perform the Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset); so I performed this procedure.

Battery disconnect/replacement causes:
Fuel Economy: reset (long-term average)
TPMS: reset
ECU: reset, the ECU goes through a 150-250 mile drive cycle to relearn emissions info
TCU: reset, transmission relearn cycle
Reset the Menu > Select Screens (needed to restore the 7 screens I use)


06/05/2024: Ford Mobile Service tested the battery (not a load test): battery tested good then applied Recall 24S24 (BCM/PCM Configuration software update). Mileage: 25,287 miles

Hi Dude, I am not that technical. How did you check the battery voltage? Using a multimeter? Thanks.

 

[João Leme]

Following here as info for you regarding my BS. BS 2023 with recall made in may. After that it had some start stop failure multiple times, battery with 1 year and some months old. They exchanged the battery today in the dealer but even after that the auto start stop failure appeared again with a new battery assembled. My BS 2023 has only 9200 miles, it is in ford dealer right now under investigation of what would be the issue... I dont know what could it be, maybe the starter... lets wait pray and see...

Some days later, here is the current situation: After start stop failed even with the new battery they went for another possible cause. They thought it could be humidity in some connections, so they re-assembled many conecctions, cleanned and dryed a possible humidity situation. I got the car back from dealer last friday. Since then I only drove some miles and noticed 2 things. First, the prior error of engine not starting at first attempt did not occur again, but second, yesterday the start stop failure did happen again . I stopped the car with auto hold "on" when arrived home. Stayed in that position for 3 minutes. Start stop had stopped the engine but once I tryied to get it back by pressing the acelerator it didnt start, and showed that message "shift to p and restart engine ". It sucks.

I mean, general question for all here, this message "shift to p and restart engine " is mentioned in owners manual, that is a fact:

So, is it supposed to be something normal not having the automatic restart available? in the manual it doesnt say anything about which conditions trigger this message. Is it supposed to engine somehow shut off and only starts after shifting to P and restarting it?

I was able to reproduce this error of start stop failure killing engine only with "Auto Hold" enabled. Anyone facing same issue?

Anywhay, I can't get comfortable with the idea of having to turn off the start stop or do some workaround to resolve this situation that I consider a problem. If the start stop exists, it should work, just as many car brands do without this type of inconvenience. I mean, if the start stop identifies that the car needs to be restarted, why does it allows the engine to turn off? or why dont the engine starts before it is to late. Should be something easier, Sorry for the rant but I've been on this soap opera for a few weeks and it's boring... Now waiting the dealer to get my car again for analysis...

Just to reinforce, nothing like that happend before the recall reprograming performed in last may.

 

[Dude]

Hi Dude, I am not that technical. How did you check the battery voltage? Using a multimeter? Thanks.

Here is a short synopsis of a few ways owners use to check battery voltage (not an exhaustive list). Skip to #4 for my method.

1. You could use a multimeter but typically that involves popping the hood and measuring across the battery. Too much trouble.

2. There is also the battery voltage displayed on your instrument cluster using Engineering Test Mode (you can find how to do that by searching posts on this Forum) but again too much trouble to put the vehicle in ETM.

3. You could buy a multi-function digital gauge, many of those products plug into the OBD Port however the good ones can be pricy and you would have to find a place to mount the gauge.

4. I prefer a real-time voltage readout so I typically leave the voltmeter shown in the pic plugged into the 12V Port located below the 8” screen.

There is a small voltage drop between the battery and the 12V Port, also the voltmeter isn’t very accurate despite its high accuracy claim. I would prefer +-0.001V but for this voltmeter accuracy claim is +-0.2V.

Let’s say the actual battery voltage was 12.6V, the voltmeter could display anywhere from 12.4V to 12.8V (and there may be a small voltage loss from the battery to the 12V Port). I use the voltmeter to see a general trend not for an accurate measurement.

For example if I turn off the vehicle and the voltmeter typically shows 12.65V, and the next day it shows 11.80V that’s not good (turning the ignition on without starting the vehicle).

And with ignition on, using my iPhone I can record a video of the voltmeter display while starting the vehicle to see a crude video of battery voltage while cranking the vehicle to steady state seeing the voltage increase >14V which shows a functioning alternator.

Current price on Amazon $17. It will occasionally be at a discounted price.

“high accuracy (+-0.2V)”
“LED Display make this USB C fast charger easy to access after dark”

https://a.co/d/54uKwBK

 

[Dude]

@João Leme There is a lot to unpack in your Post. I’ll provide some info but cannot provide any solution to your reported issues.

1. .. “is it normal not having the automatic restart available? in the manual it doesnt say anything about which conditions trigger this message.”

Pic 1 from the 2022 Owners Manual shows a list of conditions required for Auto-Start-Stop system to be enabled every time you start your vehicle.

2. Because you “did not have the Auto Start Stop issues prior to Recall 24S24 BCM/PCM reprograming (calibration updates) performed last May”, and because you have a pretty new battery, it sure seems likely the calibration updates do relate to Auto Start Stop not working properly.

But you have stated before your battery is good and the dealership recently “re-assembled many conecctions, cleaned and dryed a possible humidity situation” which although you haven’t had time to fully test the behavior of your vehicle you did state “prior error of engine not starting at first attempt did not occur again” so that suggests there was an issue with wiring connections which may have solved that one error.

Could you explain more of what was the source of the “possible humidity situation”? For example, at any point in the life of the vehicle is it possible the vehicle was under water say 15” (38.1 cm) or deeper? What else caused the “humidity situation”?

Ideally Ford Corporate would step in and take your vehicle to tear it apart and find the source of the Auto Start Stop issues while giving you a new vehicle but perhaps that humidity situation means the vehicle was exposed to environmental conditions that are not the fault of the vehicle?

 

[Dude]

@João Leme there could be issues with your driver door closed switch

A faulty door sensor is discussed here:

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/transmission-not-in-park-warning-on-dash-below-5-mph.11726/post-197787

 

[Dude]

@João Leme see Post #4, when you get the Shift to P message do you also see the amber Auto-Start-Stop indicator light is flashing?

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/auto-shut-off-stalling.11117/post-190103

 

[João Leme]

@João Leme There is a lot to unpack in your Post. I’ll provide some info but cannot provide any solution to your reported issues.
Pic 1 from the 2022 Owners Manual shows a list of conditions required for Auto-Start-Stop system to be enabled every time you start your vehicle.
...
Could you explain more of what was the source of the “possible humidity situation”? For example, at any point in the life of the vehicle is it possible the vehicle was under water say 15” (38.1 cm) or deeper? What else caused the “humidity situation”?

Thank you very much for your good answer, I had not checked that image of necessary preconditions before and there may be something useful for the next steps to be followed. Regarding your question, yes, the car got stuck in a puddle of water and mud at a depth of approximately 16 inches, I commented on this in another post here on the forum, in this case since I had been at the scene for half an hour waiting for rescue there was excessive contamination in the car's lubrication system (there was no hydraulic lock), and my insurance covered the replacement of a brand new engine, along with the replacement of the turbine and parts necessary for this assembly. Everything was done at the local Ford. I imagined that during the assembly of a new engine any moisture that might have been present would have been removed but maybe not, I don't know. Maybe the battery was damaged in this episode and that is why the engine is dying in the condition I mentioned after ASS at a stop with the auto hold engaged.

and Yes it is exactually like that the Auto-Start-Stop indicator light flashing..

 

[DWG]

Here is a short synopsis of a few ways owners use to check battery voltage (not an exhaustive list). Skip to #4 for my method.

1. You could use a multimeter but typically that involves popping the hood and measuring across the battery. Too much trouble.

2. There is also the battery voltage displayed on your instrument cluster using Engineering Test Mode (you can find how to do that by searching posts on this Forum) but again too much trouble to put the vehicle in ETM.

3. You could buy a multi-function digital gauge, many of those products plug into the OBD Port however the good ones can be pricy and you would have to find a place to mount the gauge.

4. I prefer a real-time voltage readout so I typically leave the voltmeter shown in the pic plugged into the 12V Port located below the 8” screen.

There is a small voltage drop between the battery and the 12V Port, also the voltmeter isn’t very accurate despite its high accuracy claim. I would prefer +-0.001V but for this voltmeter accuracy claim is +-0.2V.

Let’s say the actual battery voltage was 12.6V, the voltmeter could display anywhere from 12.4V to 12.8V (and there may be a small voltage loss from the battery to the 12V Port). I use the voltmeter to see a general trend not for an accurate measurement.

For example if I turn off the vehicle and the voltmeter typically shows 12.65V, and the next day it shows 11.80V that’s not good (turning the ignition on without starting the vehicle).

And with ignition on, using my iPhone I can record a video of the voltmeter display while starting the vehicle to see a crude video of battery voltage while cranking the vehicle to steady state seeing the voltage increase >14V which shows a functioning alternator.

Current price on Amazon $17. It will occasionally be at a discounted price.

“high accuracy (+-0.2V)”
“LED Display make this USB C fast charger easy to access after dark”

https://a.co/d/54uKwBK

View attachment 49192

Thank you for that reply. This was the other way I was thinking on how to check the voltage used on other threads on the forum. I agree that the multimeter is too much work. I am going to get one of these to plug into the BS just as you said to see the trend of what is going on with the battery.

Based on a lot of the posts on the forum regarding issues after the recall (coincidence or not) I am really hesitant to get the recall done but I know it is something that would need to be done. I guess I am hoping that I can wait long enough that if enough issues get to Ford they will have to issue an updated software patch for the recall.