Rear Passenger Window Stuck

[Bron Swanson]

Hey all, looking for thoughts on a hiccup that just started for me on my 2022 BS Big Bend.

About two hours ago, from the overall driver-area control panel, I went to crack all the windows a bit to let heat out of the vehicle (it is in the 90s here today).

Much to my surprise, the rear passenger window went all the way down even though I only hit the button for a second (only my driver window has one-touch lowering).

I hit the button to raise the window, but the window wouldn't move.

Additionally, there is now a semi-clicking or thudding sound coming from the rear passenger door every 5 seconds or so. (It sort of sounds like a weird muffled tennis match, if the ball being hit by either player were the noise in the door.)

It doesn't matter whether or not I have hit any window button. If I turn the car off completely, come back, and simply power it on (without turning the engine on), the noise starts and keeps going.

The noise seems to be in roughly the middle of the door itself. I can actually feel it slightly when holding onto the interior part of the door where the window button is.

I did a bit of Google work, as well as checked these and other forums, but I didn't land upon any threads where this was mentioned for a Bronco Sport.

Based on general "my (brand x) car window won't go up" type results I found online, I tried all of the following (with no effect):
- Confirmed that the window-controls lock option is off
- Pushed, pulled, and held, the driver-area passenger-window control button
- Used the button on the passenger door itself
- Confirmed that there was no visible obstruction in the track
- Tried slightly hitting the door, inside and out, to see if I could knock something loose/around
- Tried pushing and pulling the glass itself (gently)
- Tried opening and close the door with a bit of force
- Turned off my car, gave it a few minutes, and tried everything again

Additional note:
- When I use either the driver-control button, or the passenger door button, I hear the actual button clicking I would expect to hear. Like, there is clearly still power going to either control button, and something inside the door is receiving power to make the noise...but the window itself just won't move.

I work remotely, drive maybe 30 miles a week, and have had no issues with that window in the 14 months I have had the vehicle.

The only window related matter I can think of is that I always felt like the FRONT passenger window seemed to go up slightly slower than any of the other windows. However, I figured this concern was just me being my overly worried self, given that it had always gone up and down completely when I wanted it to. I only mention it here as I am unsure if something could be affecting both passenger windows, and maybe the rear passenger window suffered some fatal issue first.

In any case, the only other thing I can think of is either disconnecting the battery, or messing with fuses. However, I am curious if doing either, or both, of those steps will mess up something else.

My big concerns right now are that:
- A) What sounds like a stuck motor or switch will be running the whole time I am in the vehicle...which can't be good
- B) I can't really go anywhere because I will be unable to roll-up my window (I am not the trusting sort, so I am not going to just park and leave my window down).

Anyone else run into this, or have any suggestions?

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[Wolf256]

Sounds like the window is off track Or the track has come loose/disconnected. Not sure how to fix that without taking the interior panel off. Might be best left to the professionals. Not sure where you’re located, but many auto glass repair shops can take care of this, however, your dealership should be able to take care of this. I would think under warranty. That’s the good news. Bad news is most places are not open on Sunday.

 

[Meanderthal]

You should be able to pull a fuse, or disconnect the battery, without it adversely affecting anything. For a fuse, you don’t know how many other things will be used by that fuse. Most likely the other windows and probably some other interior accessories. I would just start with the battery disconnect, just pull the negative terminal (black) and let it sit for an hour just to be sure everything has fully powered down.

If that fixes it, great. But I would still take it to the dealer and see if they can diagnose something wrong. If nothing else, it is at least on the record you’ve had an issue with it. Someone else here had a window switch go bad but the description was not the same. It could still be an issue with the switch, just showing in a different way.

 

[seoden88]

trust me its a switch issue. Take it to dealer

 

[wireman]

Try this for the hell of it. May work, may not.

 

[CableXJ]

It’s also possible that the window regulator is toast. Either way, take it in.

 

[Mark S.]

Try this for the hell of it. May work, may not.

I believe that's a fix for a one-touch failure. OP's malfunctioning window is not one-touch.

 

[wireman]

I believe that's a fix for a one-touch failure. OP's malfunctioning window is not one-touch.

10-4 my mistake.

 

[Bron Swanson]

Disconnecting the battery didn't resolve the issue, so tomorrow I am going to call a dealership and see when they have an open appointment.

Thanks for the replies, all. Much appreciated!

 

[NMhunter]

I've found on modern cars that when the battery is low things start to go wrong. I'd put a charger on it overnight. Driving 30 miles a week probably isn't enough to fully charge the battery. The Auto Stop/Start quits working first to give you a warngin.

 

[Bron Swanson]

A couple of quick follow-up questions, as it seems like it could be a few weeks before a dealer can get this checked out.

If I did drive the vehicle, is there any sort of electrical/fire concern since something is stuck running every 5 seconds in the door?

Just for the sake of a possible emergency, I can't go weeks without at least some level of access to a vehicle. However, I also don't want something to burn-out in the door and then have Ford say it isn't covered under warranty any longer because I continued to use the vehicle when it was obvious that something was stuck running.

Also, does anyone know which fuse is related to the rear passenger window? (Or just the windows in general I assume). I didn't see it specifically listed in the manual, but I get the sense that I am going to need to pull it if I want to be able to drive at all for the next few weeks.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Hey all, looking for thoughts on a hiccup that just started for me on my 2022 BS Big Bend.

About two hours ago, from the overall driver-area control panel, I went to crack all the windows a bit to let heat out of the vehicle (it is in the 90s here today).

Much to my surprise, the rear passenger window went all the way down even though I only hit the button for a second (only my driver window has one-touch lowering).

I hit the button to raise the window, but the window wouldn't move.

Additionally, there is now a semi-clicking or thudding sound coming from the rear passenger door every 5 seconds or so. (It sort of sounds like a weird muffled tennis match, if the ball being hit by either player were the noise in the door.)

It doesn't matter whether or not I have hit any window button. If I turn the car off completely, come back, and simply power it on (without turning the engine on), the noise starts and keeps going.

The noise seems to be in roughly the middle of the door itself. I can actually feel it slightly when holding onto the interior part of the door where the window button is.

I did a bit of Google work, as well as checked these and other forums, but I didn't land upon any threads where this was mentioned for a Bronco Sport.

Based on general "my (brand x) car window won't go up" type results I found online, I tried all of the following (with no effect):
- Confirmed that the window-controls lock option is off
- Pushed, pulled, and held, the driver-area passenger-window control button
- Used the button on the passenger door itself
- Confirmed that there was no visible obstruction in the track
- Tried slightly hitting the door, inside and out, to see if I could knock something loose/around
- Tried pushing and pulling the glass itself (gently)
- Tried opening and close the door with a bit of force
- Turned off my car, gave it a few minutes, and tried everything again

Additional note:
- When I use either the driver-control button, or the passenger door button, I hear the actual button clicking I would expect to hear. Like, there is clearly still power going to either control button, and something inside the door is receiving power to make the noise...but the window itself just won't move.

I work remotely, drive maybe 30 miles a week, and have had no issues with that window in the 14 months I have had the vehicle.

The only window related matter I can think of is that I always felt like the FRONT passenger window seemed to go up slightly slower than any of the other windows. However, I figured this concern was just me being my overly worried self, given that it had always gone up and down completely when I wanted it to. I only mention it here as I am unsure if something could be affecting both passenger windows, and maybe the rear passenger window suffered some fatal issue first.

In any case, the only other thing I can think of is either disconnecting the battery, or messing with fuses. However, I am curious if doing either, or both, of those steps will mess up something else.

My big concerns right now are that:
- A) What sounds like a stuck motor or switch will be running the whole time I am in the vehicle...which can't be good
- B) I can't really go anywhere because I will be unable to roll-up my window (I am not the trusting sort, so I am not going to just park and leave my window down).

Anyone else run into this, or have any suggestions?

Hi there, I'd be happy to look into your Bronco concerns on my end. Will you send us a message with your VIN and dealership info? I can look into things on my end.

 

[Bucko]

Is the window stuck down, or up? If it is stuck down, is there at least part of the glass that you can grip, then pull up with a helper operating the switch? That could at least get you around without the glass down. However, depending on how bad the issue is, the glass may drop down on its own again.

To me, it sounds like the glass track has broken away from the track "X" rail inside the door. They use a lot of plastics in the glass tracks and regulators within the past 10 to 20 years. The Ford F150's were notorious for having plastic sliders in the door glass tracks break. You could not get just the plastic pieces; you had to buy a complete door glass track/regulator assembly to fix it.

 

[Wolf256]

I had this happen to the driver’s window on my 1993 Thunderbird. It was part off track. Difference is it was 3/4 of the way up and at an odd angle. Took my local glass shop 30 minutes to fix. It took longer to get the door panel off than to fix the problem. Once fixed, I never had another problem with that window, which is a good thing as I worked on base at the time. Is there a glass place near you? Maybe one that works with the local dealer? Just a thought. I think I would have to compare the cost against how long the wait is to get it done at Ford. Also, how must trust do you have in their service department? Just my $.02.

 

[Meanderthal]

I had this happen to the driver’s window on my 1993 Thunderbird. It was part off track. Difference is it was 3/4 of the way up and at an odd angle. Took my local glass shop 30 minutes to fix. It took longer to get the door panel off than to fix the problem. Once fixed, I never had another problem with that window, which is a good thing as I worked on base at the time. Is there a glass place near you? Maybe one that works with the local dealer? Just a thought. I think I would have to compare the cost against how long the wait is to get it done at Ford. Also, how must trust do you have in their service department? Just my $.02.

Once you take the door panel off, you still can't access the window track. Everything is behind a big plastic panel that is riveted (IIRC) to the metal door.

Edit: Not riveted, see picture.

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