Post recall software update blues

BabyBen

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I know there are ways to disable it but I am on extended warranty and messing with the software or hardware may void it. the best one I heard of is plugging a dummy connector into the camper hookup to fool the system that a trailer is attached. But that may wipe out eco mode. Not sure. This way I can just pull the plug prior to servicing at Ford. Hope your right about the starter having longer life. I am an old time backyard mechanic and back then re-starting a hot engine too much could cause pre-mature breakdown.
I have looked at this method before but may void the extended warranty if they catch me. I am considering constructing a dummy connector to the tow plug. That way I can remove it prior to servicing. Some report that if a trailer is attached it won't allow the engine to stall off. Not sure if it will allow eco drive.
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ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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I know there are ways to disable it but I am on extended warranty and messing with the software or hardware may void it. the best one I heard of is plugging a dummy connector into the camper hookup to fool the system that a trailer is attached. But that may wipe out eco mode. Not sure. This way I can just pull the plug prior to servicing at Ford. Hope your right about the starter having longer life. I am an old time backyard mechanic and back then re-starting a hot engine too much could cause pre-mature breakdown.
Here's as easy & cheap way:

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/4d-tech-bronco-sport-21-24-start-stop-eliminator.10591/#post-182864

Plug in a $2 LED night light into the AC outlet in the back. Done and done. You're welcome :like:
 

ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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Thanks for the link. But there is no AC outlet on my Big Bend
It's in the back cargo area passenger side on my Badlands.
 


ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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I also have a 110V outlet facing the rear seats (outlet location is below the rear vents)
Yep there too - Only Archie the wiener dog sits back there so never noticed it. Of course the fun way to eliminate the ASS is to run in sport mode all the time - that's what I did until the ASS Eliminator gizmo arrived in the mail.
 
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sajohnson

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I know there are ways to disable it but I am on extended warranty and messing with the software or hardware may void it. the best one I heard of is plugging a dummy connector into the camper hookup to fool the system that a trailer is attached. But that may wipe out eco mode. Not sure. This way I can just pull the plug prior to servicing at Ford. Hope your right about the starter having longer life. I am an old time backyard mechanic and back then re-starting a hot engine too much could cause pre-mature breakdown.
The dummy connector sounds good.

Regarding the starting system, it 's reasonable to assume that the starter and solenoid, etc., are more durable in vehicles with auto start/stop than those without -- but I have no proof of that.
 

ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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Using a multi-meter this morning - before starting battery read 12.20V - after starting battery read 14.78V at idle. Good to know charging is immediate - days of old alternators needed to spin over 2,000 RPM to charge.
 

Dude

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Using a multi-meter this morning - before starting battery read 12.20V - after starting battery read 14.78V at idle. Good to know charging is immediate - days of old alternators needed to spin over 2,000 RPM to charge.
How long ago did alternators need to spin 2000rpm?
 

ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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Dude

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Using a multi-meter this morning - before starting battery read 12.20V - after starting battery read 14.78V at idle. Good to know charging is immediate - days of old alternators needed to spin over 2,000 RPM to charge.
Short 7 second video of starting the vehicle. In this example the vehicle was put into accessory mode, voltage read 12.1, 12.05, 12.02, then the vehicle was started and voltage dropped to 10.61v and rose to 13.71 when the video was ended.
The voltage readout device is plugged into the cigarette lighter which reads somewhat less than if a meter was connected directly to the 12V posts.
The voltage readout device is spec’d at +/- 0.2V.

 

Dude

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Using a multi-meter this morning - before starting battery read 12.20V - after starting battery read 14.78V at idle. Good to know charging is immediate - days of old alternators needed to spin over 2,000 RPM to charge.
Maybe current day (pun intended) alternators behave the same.

Google states: “Alternator may not generate sufficient charging voltage until alternator speed is greater than about 2000 RPM. Typically, alternators have their full output rated at 6000 RPM but can continue to spin up to 12,000 RPM or more without any additional increase in output.”

“The minimum RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) required for a 12V car alternator to start generating electricity can vary depending on the specific design of the alternator. However, in general, most car alternators start generating electricity at around 1000 to 1500 RPM.”
 

Bill G

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Believe that belt driven alternator is spinning faster than engine — just how much faster depends on the pulley sizes; same with belt driven water pumps (old school) speed of pump depends on pulley sizes.
 

ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS

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Believe that belt driven alternator is spinning faster than engine — just how much faster depends on the pulley sizes; same with belt driven water pumps (old school) speed of pump depends on pulley sizes.
Which is why it seems like even my old Chev should always be charging. After recently going thru 4 newly remanufactured overseas alternators that proved defective to find a good one - lost faith and bought an all new components made in Cleveland Ohio USA unit that charges at idle. Tuff Stuff brand - very happy with it - designed to charge at idle and it does - go figure.
 
 







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