Post recall software update blues

[sajohnson]

From the Ford Transit Forum:

"RPM" is *alternator* rpm, (not engine rpm).

Alternator rpm is typically about 3x engine rpm -- so with the engine idling, most alternators are spinning at >2K rpm.

In the graph above, the 5 alternators are putting out 130 > 160 amps @ 2,000 rpm.

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[Dude]

In the graph above, the 5 alternators are putting out 130 > 160 amps @ 2,000 rpm.

Nice graph!!

 

[sajohnson]

Nice graph!!

Ya gotta love a good graph!

 

[Bronclahoma]

I've not noticed any difference in the performance of my 23 BL. Only thing different is when I change modes from Normal to Sport I have to pause on Eco a moment before I move on to Sport. Previously I could just fast click two to the right if I was in heavy traffic. I like the immediate deceleration if I let off the gas in city traffic. If I do that now it stays in Eco- just the opposite of what I want. Really just noticed this yesterday. Need to play with it a little more.

Still contemplating a Colorado ZR2. Not many in inventory. Not in a rush, I still enjoy my BL. Likely order a 25 model, but reading that they may delay them to as late as Dec. Looks like the lil green Bronco will see another fall in CO.

 

[DahliaDarlin']

From the reports of some, it sounds as though the software controlling the transmission is reset. These vehicles employ a learning function to adapt to individual driver's habits. It may be that your transmission hasn't yet adapted back to your driving habits. Give it a tank or two, then check it again.

So this explains that bizarre 18 MPG tank. Bummer. I thought, "Well if this is gonna be my MPG, I might as well trade up to a Badlands." Scotch that.

 

[DahliaDarlin']

My wife is the primary driver of the BS BL. She is in the habit of turning off the auto stop/start right after starting the engine, but I agree, being able to turn it off permanently would be better.

I seem to recall reading here on the forum that there is a way to disable it. You might want to do a search and see what you find (if you haven't already).

Presumably, Ford took the added stress of the stop/start function into account, and used a more durable starter, starter solenoid, etc. I'd include a better battery in that list, but that doesn't seem to be the case... Regardless, it's obviously better not to cycle the starting system every time a vehicle comes to a stop. I assume that feature is included to help Ford meet CAFE standards.

A potential silver lining is that if Ford did beef up the starting system, and auto stop/start is NOT used, there should be fewer than average issues with it.

I thought I read on the forum that people had luck disabling s/s by plugging in a low wattage night light into one of the outlets. Maybe the one accessible from the back seat?

 

[sajohnson]

I thought I read on the forum that people had luck disabling s/s by plugging in a low wattage night light into one of the outlets. Maybe the one accessible from the back seat?

I really haven't paid much attention to the auto stop/start 'fixes', since my wife said she's OK with pressing the button -- it's part of her routine.

Offhand though, I'm not sure how plugging in a nightlight would disable it -- unless the light is enough of a load to discharge the battery to the point that the auto stop/start is disabled due to low voltage. If that's the case, that's not a good solution.

 

[Dude]

I really haven't paid much attention to the auto stop/start 'fixes', since my wife said she's OK with pressing the button -- it's part of her routine.

Offhand though, I'm not sure how plugging in a nightlight would disable it -- unless the light is enough of a load to discharge the battery to the point that the auto stop/start is disabled due to low voltage. If that's the case, that's not a good solution.

I had same thought as you when this was first reported on this Forum a couple years ago.

Let’s say it’s a 5W night light (or even less wattage) and with the efficiency the 110V inverter pulls 8W more or less from the 12V battery, the theory is that is enough draw for the auto start/stop algorithm to not engage.

Some owners report that works, even just a 0.5W night light is enough, keeping auto start:stop off and some owners say it doesn’t work meaning auto start/stop still kicks on.

Some example posts:
LED light (probably low wattage, owner doesn’t say): https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/4d-tech-bronco-sport-21-24-start-stop-eliminator.10591/post-182864

0.5W night light:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/4d-tech-auto-start-stop-disable.9771/post-172028

 

[sajohnson]

I had same thought as you when this was first reported on this Forum a couple years ago.

Let’s say it’s a 5W night light (or even less wattage) and with the efficiency the 110V inverter pulls 8W more or less from the 12V battery, the theory is that is enough draw for the auto start/stop algorithm to not engage.

Some owners report that works, even just a 0.5W night light is enough, keeping auto start:stop off and some owners say it doesn’t work meaning auto start/stop still kicks on.

Some example posts:
LED light (probably low wattage, owner doesn’t say): https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/4d-tech-bronco-sport-21-24-start-stop-eliminator.10591/post-182864

0.5W night light:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/4d-tech-auto-start-stop-disable.9771/post-172028

Personally -- not suggesting that anyone necessarily do the same -- I'll just push the button. It isn't a big deal (IMO).

If there is a way to disable it that does not discharge the battery I'd consider it.

This is a classic example of a First World problem.

 

[ATLAS BLUE BADLANDS]

I've not noticed any difference in the performance of my 23 BL. Only thing different is when I change modes from Normal to Sport I have to pause on Eco a moment before I move on to Sport. Previously I could just fast click two to the right if I was in heavy traffic. I like the immediate deceleration if I let off the gas in city traffic. If I do that now it stays in Eco- just the opposite of what I want. Really just noticed this yesterday. Need to play with it a little more.

Still contemplating a Colorado ZR2. Not many in inventory. Not in a rush, I still enjoy my BL. Likely order a 25 model, but reading that they may delay them to as late as Dec. Looks like the lil green Bronco will see another fall in CO.

Always takes me 3 immediate clicks to move from normal - thru eco - to sport.

 

[Bronclahoma]

I know there are ways to disable it but I am on extended warranty and messing with the software or hardware may void it. the best one I heard of is plugging a dummy connector into the camper hookup to fool the system that a trailer is attached. But that may wipe out eco mode. Not sure. This way I can just pull the plug prior to servicing at Ford. Hope your right about the starter having longer life. I am an old time backyard mechanic and back then re-starting a hot engine too much could cause pre-mature breakdown.

If you trick the ecu into thinking you are towing a trailer, won't it affect transmission shifts and keep your car in gears longer before upshifting?

I have a routine that is second nature now when getting in my Bl. Upon entry I lock the doors. An old habit for personal protection even though I'm armed 24/7. Second start the engine, third turn off the stop/start.

Several people have mentioned getting a voltage meter that plugs in the 12v connection on the console. Not a fix, but will allow you to know when your battery is getting weak and to know if your alternator is properly charging it. Since I bought my 21 BL I've had a fear of being out in the boonies with a dead battery. Shortly after purchase I bough a jump box.

 

[Dude]

My Bronco sport was runing pretty good before I did the update (recall 24s24). Didn't really have any weird issues besides bad gas mileage. After I did the update every time I'm idling I get charge system service soon. My gas mileage dipped to about 16 MPG. Before that I was averaging around 20. I am pretty freaking upset. I was on the fence about getting the update since my car was running fine and everything was working as it should.

@SondraBurnsRed I recall seeing a Fb post where during the install of Recall 24S24 there was an issue where it appeared the 24S24 installation did not complete correctly… was that your post?

Were you ever able to revert back to BCM/PCM Configuration software prior to Recall 24S24? (Or get 24S24 completed correctly)

I also recall seeing the Purge valve solenoid was replaced, not sure if that was your vehicle and was a cause of the bad gas mileage?
Did you resolve what was causing the drop in gas mileage from 20 to 16mpg?

 

[BabyBen]

If you trick the ecu into thinking you are towing a trailer, won't it affect transmission shifts and keep your car in gears longer before upshifting?

I have a routine that is second nature now when getting in my Bl. Upon entry I lock the doors. An old habit for personal protection even though I'm armed 24/7. Second start the engine, third turn off the stop/start.

Several people have mentioned getting a voltage meter that plugs in the 12v connection on the console. Not a fix, but will allow you to know when your battery is getting weak and to know if your alternator is properly charging it. Since I bought my 21 BL I've had a fear of being out in the boonies with a dead battery. Shortly after purchase I bough a jump box.

Don't know about the shifting. I try to turn it off on startup but getting old and I forget a lot.
You can get a voltage reader that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I use one in my motorhome. When my battery started going bad I got indication from the display that they were shutting some things down to preserve power. Didn't really know that meant until I got stuck at the grocery store. Called for service and when they came out they brought a NOCO to start my car. I went home and immediately ordered a NOCO overnight. The next morning I called Ford to make an appointment, started the car with my new NOCO, had the battery replaced under warranty. Never go anywhere any more without my NOCO.

 

[KidWiff]

Always takes me 3 immediate clicks to move from normal - thru eco - to sport.

Agreed. At initial startup of the vehicle the first "click" activates the dashboard graphic display for mode selection. It always starts on Standard Mode... 2 additional clicks to get to Sport mode

Once driving, i'm not sure where the display lands. I'm assuming it highlights the mode you are currently in so, a little bit of attention is required when selecting "modes".

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