Interior Fuse Block Access.

[brockdog12]

Were you not able to get the code from the infotainment system? I believe that you can recover the factory code through the vehicle settings if you have both keys. Probably not very useful to you now but for future reference.

I went through that and couldn't find it, I did find where I could change the code, but if I recall it asked for the original code. I was able to repair the panel, wasn't as bad as I thought and it is hidden so no worries.

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[BSB75]

FYI for anyone curious, I installed a Thinkware F200 today with a hardwire kit. They sell an installation kit on Amazon that included the needed 10A fuses and fuse taps, along with a voltage tester and pry bar.

I ended up using only spare fuses as listed in the manual. I used #3 for the ACC as it does not get constant power and I used #20 for the battery as it DOES get constant power. I tested these both to make sure.

The F200 smartphone app has battery saver for park mode to ensure it doesn't drop below 12v. This is adjustable.

Took a couple hours including tucking all the wiring into the trim/headliner. If you use the fuses I did, it should be quicker as you won't need to do any trial and error.

I hope this helps!

I also learned my local Best Buy is clueless as the parking mode never worked in my previous vehicle that they installed on. Go figure I do it myself and everything is great.

Is this the one selling for 199.99 on Amazon, thanks!

 

[Vyper]

Is this the one selling for 199.99 on Amazon, thanks!

I got mine locally at Best Buy, but yes that is the one!

 

[BSB75]

I got mine locally at Best Buy, but yes that is the one!

Thanks!

 

[jaja6009]

Thank you to everyone who posted here!

I just wired my dashcam up. It's a bit late as on Saturday a car crashed into me and 3 other cars while we were stopped at a red light. The dashcam was not needed for that in terms of at fault, but I still wish I had it as there are some questions about the strange ending positions of the vehicles and the damage suffered.

I have an older Street Guardian CX 1080 camera from my previous car. It had a power point to plug in and worked great in my Suzuki Sx4, but not so much in "Silvie" my Baby Bronco with the power point always being on.

My solution was I do not at this time want to use the parking mode, but do the the wiring kit to add it in the future. I took the power point adaptor and cut off the end to get the power and ground wire. I used fuse #3 as others have done for my ACC power. I found an exposed part of the frame on the passenger side up and to the right of the glove box, which I removed for easier access. I mounted the dashcam using my Valentine One radar detector Blendmount that attaches to the stem of the rearview mirror. I then ran the wires into the case for the Lane Assist camera system (Pushed in just enough to hide them) and then into the headliner heading towards the passenger side. I then pulled out the A-Pillar trim (Pull it towards the back driver side corner of the vehicle) and ran the wires down that. I then pulled the trim below the A-Pillar Trim out just enough to get be able to feed the wires into the area where the fuse box is located. All wiring was then zipped tied to available areas. It is a very clean and easily removed system from the mount on the mirror to the add a fuse for power to the impromptu ground.

In my Baby Bronco the Big Bend (W/O Big Bend Package) fuse #3 is only on in ACC mode or when the car is running. It DOES stay powered when the car uses Auto Stop. I confirmed while driving as I kept the area disassembled so I could see the power light on the little transformer in the wiring. I also confirmed by viewing the video footage. As I am always cautious I hit all wiring with my thermal imager after my test drive and the system works great.

Thanks again to what is shaping up to be a great forum with informative members.

 

[ruzzo84]

Ya leí todo el foro y finalmente alguien que me pueda entender soy nuevo aquí, podemos hacer un resumen para conectar la cámara del tablero. Tengo una primera edición, luego uso el fusible 3 para ACC y cuál para energía sin afectar el inicio automático. detener
todo esto para usar el modo estacionamiento de los A800s de xiaomi, pongo foto del kit de cableado. Saludos desde México, disculpe el traductor de google

 

[Argang]

This is a wealth of information, I'm trying to do my research before attempting this. It appears that if I want to use parking mode, I would either use fuse 10, micro 2 (extended power module-10A), 17, micro 2 (SYNC-15A) or 24, micro 2 (Spare-20A). If I want it switched on only when the car is running I would use Fuse 1-2, micro 3(Not Used - 5A each).

Does anyone know if 15-16, micro 3 (not used) and 21-22, micro 3 (not used) are constant power? I would like to start with constant power and see if that works with my cut-off voltage and if it doesn't switch to switched power fuse 1-2 micro 3. Conversely, does anyone know if any of the other micro 2 fuses are switched off when the car is off and will run when the car is on automatic off at a stoplight?

Does anyone know what Bronco Sport's minimum starting voltage is? My hardwire kit's cut-off voltage can be set to 11.6 or 12V. I only need parking mode to run for a few hours between parking my vehicle and when the security guard goes on duty so I would set it for 12V. Thieves have figured out the sweet spot in our complex when the office closes and the guard is on duty, so that is when I need the camera active on parking mode. We typically don't hang out too long at the mall, maybe 4-5 hours tops if having dinner and watching a movie.

Not too concerned after that but want to make sure that if I leave it for more than two days...I don't come back to a dead battery. I also want to be able to switch from Constant to Switched voltage if the need arises without having to change the fuse tap.

Thank you in advance for any insight that contributers may offer.

 

[Mark S.]

Does anyone know if 15-16, micro 3 (not used) and 21-22, micro 3 (not used) are constant power? I would like to start with constant power and see if that works with my cut-off voltage and if it doesn't switch to switched power fuse 1-2 micro 3. Conversely, does anyone know if any of the other micro 2 fuses are switched off when the car is off and will run when the car is on automatic off at a stoplight?

I just did a lengthy writeup on a dashcam install. In my car (Badlands) slot 3 is switched, and is powered any time the ignition is on. It remains powered on until you turn off the ignition, regardless of whether the engine is running or not.

My hardwire kit's cut-off voltage can be set to 11.6 or 12V. I only need parking mode to run for a few hours between parking my vehicle and when the security guard goes on duty so I would set it for 12V.

The starter is designed to run on 12V, and using a lower voltage can damage it. I would keep the min set to 12V.

 

[Argang]

Thank you Mark S. Did you have any issues with the fuse 3 slot?

Zolutar wrote:

"Fuse 3 has an issue where when the auto stop kicks in at a traffic light, it cuts power to the circuit to the dashcam....it does resume and my camera powers back on when the engine re-engages.
I need to find a different fuse to tap. I am an Outer Banks trim"

Did you run across this issue?

If I run parking mode, I will set it to 12V to make sure 12.2V if I had the option.

 

[Mark S.]

Thank you Mark S. Did you have any issues with the fuse 3 slot?

I tested slot 3 before installing my camera. It's powered anytime the ignition is on regardless of whether the engine is running. I believe this problem crops up because of the method some dashcams use to determine when to enter parking mode. Mine uses two power wires--one switched (hot when ignition is on) and one unswitched (always hot). When the switched power goes off--which happens when you shut off the ignition switch--the camera senses power on only the unswitched power wire and enters parking mode. Other cameras are powered by a single wire and employ a voltage sensor. When the engine is running the alternator outputs 14 volts, while the battery outputs <13 volts. These cameras enter parking mode when power drops below 13 volts. I suspect that's the issue with Zolutar's camera.

If you have a camera that uses voltage sensing you can likely disable the parking monitor mode to avoid this issue. That means, of course, you lose the parking monitoring function.

 

[Argang]

Mark:

That makes sense. I have a Vantrue N4 and understand it switches to parking mode when no movement is detected. I did buy the GPS module but don't think that factors into the actuation of the unit. It appears that fuse 24 is a spare that stays on and has worked for others but I do not know if they used a 3-wire.

I appreciate the knowledge shared...thank you.

 

[GoatsyBanks]

Your welcome. I hope I can help prevent smoky mistakes . I'm unfortunately an accessory addict so I've done this too many times.

My motorcycle has 8 USB and 3 - 12 volt taps for crap (accessories) for my cross country rides.

I'm trying to get help.


.

Since you're a accessory addict maybe you can help with this.

I'm going to install some raptor style grill lights. Instead of using a separate switch I would like to tap into the DTR system. They come on with the parking lights and would turn off if i turned the headlights off manualy. However the ones in the headlights turn off when the directionals come on. (during the day)
Also, I don't believe the rear parking lights are DRT but that might be an option.

Ay insight is appreciated.

 

[J.Wal]

Lots of great info here.
I have also ran into the camera cutting off when the auto start/ stop starts the engine after a red light.

I have ordered a OBD2 power supply that has a switch to work in 1) ACC only, or 2) 24/7 peer untill it meets 12v and cuts off.

I will continue to monitor what works and doesn’t for y’all.

 

[GoatsyBanks]

Anyone know of an aac wire in the engine bay that's ignition only?

 

[RonSwanson]

I just finished installing dash cams on my Badlands and the biggest problem I had was accessing the interior fuse block. Since a lot of us are going to install electronics or like me also want to access the fuses in case of problems, I thought I share how to get at the fuse block.
I didn't find directions to get at the panel so I winged it and ended up nearly cutting a wire in a wire bundle in the process. Luckily no smoke or problems.

The fuse block is in the back of the passenger footwell below the glove compartment and behind a panel with a fuse imprint on it.

I first tried just pulling out this panel. Unfortunately it's attached to the panel above so it wouldn't come out. I then tried to put it back in place but it wouldn't clamp back in by pressing on it. While I was pressing on the panel I later learned a panel mounting clip was pressing against a wire loom and was cutting a wire.

I finally realized I had to remove the upper panel to see what was wrong. I could see there was a plastic panel rivet on either side of the upper panel so I pried them out with a small pry bar.

Panel pulled down revealing plastic rivets and panel clip.

Both panels are connected by two tabs (circled in blue). The rear panel is held to the fuse block by 3 panel clips (yellow arrows). Both panels were then removed by pulling back on the upper panel and rear panel at roughly the same time.

Fuse block exposed. Yellow circles are the slots the rear panel clips go into. The bundle of wires below the
right slot (now taped up) is the one that was cut when I attempted to put panel back in place.

As a side note I used the silver fuse block mounting nut at the bottom left of panel as a ground for the cameras USB power adapter and it worked fine.

To replace panels I started with the rear panel and guided the clips back into the mounting slots. It was much easier to position this panel into place without the. upper panel getting in the way.

I next guided the two tabs on the upper panel into the rear panels mounting slots.

To finish just push up on panel rivets and tabs until they lock.

These directions might seem like overkill to some but this is the first vehicle I've had without an easily accessible fuse panel or directions to get at it. I'm glad I didn't have to figure it out in the middle of a rainstorm or blizzard on the side of the road because of an electrical problem .

This post / thread saved me me a ton of time and probably breaking something I shouldn't have when I hard wired my radar detector to the #3 spare fuse yesterday using an add-a-circuit. I think getting the blendmount onto the rearview mirror was shockingly more tedious and difficult than doing the hardwiring.

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