Interior Fuse Block Access.

Johnperrion

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I didn't notice it at first, but it does power back on when the engine re-engages, so I am hoping others have found a different circuit that stays on with the accy mode, and not interupted by auto-stop.
I will try 24 next as an "always on" as my cam has the parking mode with timeout.
I am using a DOD Rx8w
Hey did you ever try fuse 24? I am considering it instead of 1+2 because it is rated at 20 amps rather than 5. In the install video I watched for the switch I ordered, they instruct to use the 20A acc fuse to tap into. I'm don't know enough about draws to know if using a 5A fuse, when they are instructing to use a 20A, would cause any issues.
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Hey did you ever try fuse 24? I am considering it instead of 1+2 because it is rated at 20 amps rather than 5. In the install video I watched for the switch I ordered, they instruct to use the 20A acc fuse to tap into. I'm don't know enough about draws to know if using a 5A fuse, when they are instructing to use a 20A, would cause any issues.
If they specify a 20 amp fuse then the 5 amp fuse position wont work or at least not for long. Check the owners manual, I believe there might be a 20 or 30 amp fuse that's not in use and you could tap it. If you use a 20 amp fuse position that's already protecting a large load then your additional 20 amp fuse load will likely overload it. I try to only use fuse tap power for small loads (like dash cams). For large loads (lights, Ham Radios, power ports) I use the fuse tap to control relays instead to switch power from a direct connection to the battery. Pain in the rear running power from the battery through the firewall. However, less chance of blowing a fuse on a vital component in the middle of nowhere when you flip the 20 amp light bar on.
 

Zolutar

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Hey did you ever try fuse 24? I am considering it instead of 1+2 because it is rated at 20 amps rather than 5. In the install video I watched for the switch I ordered, they instruct to use the 20A acc fuse to tap into. I'm don't know enough about draws to know if using a 5A fuse, when they are instructing to use a 20A, would cause any issues.
I did, and it worked fine, but was always on...my cam was having issues turning off and I found it was draining the battery so I went back to the original one...waiting for one of the micro3 taps and will use the one mentioned
 

Johnperrion

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I did, and it worked fine, but was always on...my cam was having issues turning off and I found it was draining the battery so I went back to the original one...waiting for one of the micro3 taps and will use the one mentioned
Thanks for the info. :) Guess I'm going into 1+2 then. I'm waiting on my micro3 as well. They are so damn hard to find! Got one off Amazon getting here Friday, so it'll have to be my weekend task.
 

Johnperrion

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If they specify a 20 amp fuse then the 5 amp fuse position wont work or at least not for long. Check the owners manual, I believe there might be a 20 or 30 amp fuse that's not in use and you could tap it. If you use a 20 amp fuse position that's already protecting a large load then your additional 20 amp fuse load will likely overload it. I try to only use fuse tap power for small loads (like dash cams). For large loads (lights, Ham Radios, power ports) I use the fuse tap to control relays instead to switch power from a direct connection to the battery. Pain in the rear running power from the battery through the firewall. However, less chance of blowing a fuse on a vital component in the middle of nowhere when you flip the 20 amp light bar on.
I'm not sure, but I think the way the panel I have is set up, is that the draw it is taking from the fuse box is just to say, "Hey, you are good to grab power". And then the actual power is being drawn from the 60 Amp inline circuit that is inbetween the battery and the switch?
But I could be waaay wrong lol
Here is the one I ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089Y8QS84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you watch the install video at approx 1:40 it goes over the tap. It instructs to "Test ACC Fuse" The instructions don't specifically say to use a 20, I am just going off of the color of the fuse. Yellow is 20 right?
 
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Johnperrion

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I'm not sure, but I think the way the panel I have is set up, is that the draw it is taking from the fuse box is just to say, "Hey, you are good to grab power". And then the actual power is being drawn from a 60 Amp inline circuit that is an inbetween from the battery and the panel.
But I could be waaay wrong lol
Here is the one I ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089Y8QS84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you watch the install video at approx 1:40 it goes over the tap. It instructs to "Test ACC Fuse" The instructions don't specifically say to use a 20, I am just going off of the color of the fuse. Yellow is 20 right?
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. IMG_3440[1].JPG

Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. IMG_3441[1].JPG


The first pic is the very unspecific instructions, and the second pic is the wiring diagram I created so I have a blueprint once I get into it. My plan is as follows.
Roof top 40 Inch light bar going to #3 (20 amp)
Grill mounted 20 Inch light bar going to #4 (20 amp)
Grill mounted round ambers #5 (10 amp)
Hood mounted ditch lights #6 (10 amp)
Under body rock lights #7 (5 amp)
I am leaving #1-#2 (30 amp) open for consideration of a future winch and air compressor, but maybe that's a bad idea? Any insight there? And then #8 (5 amp) is just open, no plan for it yet.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
 

Bronclahoma

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Thanks for the info. Not a good design, Ford should change it. You should never need a tool of any kind to access a fuse box, nor stand on your head.
 

Willow

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Ok, I got the Rexing Dash Cam hard wire kit and wanted to tackle the interior fuse box issue first. I found that the panel with the fuse emblem does come off by its self, though with some elbow grease. You think you might break it but you wont, well take it easy, all things considered. The panel has three male protrusions that sink into three female receptors. The bottom one lifts up easily, the upper ones need some convincing. Look at the the photos below and you will see what I mean. It should be an easier removal though. I will be reviewing the needed fuses next, not tonight...

Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. F2ECAC81-6092-4B15-8DBF-417896D465D5
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 458EE961-C9DB-4894-A5D8-0AFF85FC2739
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 7B5EA3B6-944D-477F-88B4-3FA854BA7FD6
 

GT1

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Ok, I got the Rexing Dash Cam hard wire kit and wanted to tackle the interior fuse box issue first. I found that the panel with the fuse emblem does come off by its self, though with some elbow grease. You think you might break it but you wont, well take it easy, all things considered. The panel has three male protrusions that sink into three female receptors. The bottom one lifts up easily, the upper ones need some convincing. Look at the the photos below and you will see what I mean. It should be an easier removal though. I will be reviewing the needed fuses next, not tonight...

Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. F2ECAC81-6092-4B15-8DBF-417896D465D5
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 458EE961-C9DB-4894-A5D8-0AFF85FC2739
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 7B5EA3B6-944D-477F-88B4-3FA854BA7FD6
Top latches easier to break than you might think - from experience ! Be sure to pull bottom out first. When you reinstall be careful wires are not caught in lower latch. A number of posts a few months ago on this by people installing accessories. Definitely room for improvement here Mr. Ford.
 


nd2432

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All,

I followed the instructions here yesterday when installing two dashcams in my car. A Garmin 66W and a Garmin Mini Dash Cam. I ran the wires on the right side of the vehicle down into the space below/behind the glove compartment, as mentioned by others.

I used a MICRO-2 Fuse Tap connected to Fuse 3. When the vehicle is in accessory mode, the cameras do not turn on. However, when the vehicle is powered they are. If I come to a stop and the engine shuts off for auto start/stop, the cameras REMAIN ON. I have a Badlands + Badlands. I used a standard dual-port USB cigarette lighter converter that I soldered wires to for 12V and ground (the USB converter creates 5V power, which is what the Garmins use). I then wrapped the USB converter in electrical tape to ensure nothing would short. The center pin on the converter is the 12V in, and the two rounded tabs on the sides are both ground - I only soldered to one of them. Very easy job to do. Getting the panels on/off the glove box fuse box are pretty simple, small plastic pry bar makes it easier but I did it by hand. Let me know if any of you have questions.

This was the Fuse Tap I used, got it from my local AutoZone. The advanced auto parts nearby didn't have any micro-2 sizes. Even though the packaging doesn't say micro-2 anywhere, it fit the fuse. They employees inside weren't even sure what size it was...

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-and-accessories/bussmann-atr-add-a-circuit-fuse-tap/547344_0_0

For anyone planning to use the Garmin camera for the rear and route it all the way to the front to avoid wires in the trunk, careful planning is required. The provided USB cable is about 2-3 ft too short to make it the entire length and get to the glove box. If you open the driver door there is a small panel that says "Airbag", on the passenger side this "panel" is there but isn't an airbag and is just part of the molding. I had to use a short 3ft USB extension cable to finally get it to the glovebox. Thankfully the Garmin cable ended right at the "panel" and I was able to make the connection and comfortably put them inside that panel area. You'll need to drop the glove box down by pushing on the two and reach from up inside the glovebox to get the extension in there. I found the USB female connect was too big to push through a slot I tried creating when prying that panel back.
 
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13MikeH

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major kudos on the writeup for opening and replacing the fuse access. I had to open it to locate the keyless entry factory code. Can't seem to find the card with the info on it. Either way, made it FAR easier to put everything back and safely. Much appreciated.
 

Vyper

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FYI for anyone curious, I installed a Thinkware F200 today with a hardwire kit. They sell an installation kit on Amazon that included the needed 10A fuses and fuse taps, along with a voltage tester and pry bar.

I ended up using only spare fuses as listed in the manual. I used #3 for the ACC as it does not get constant power and I used #20 for the battery as it DOES get constant power. I tested these both to make sure.

The F200 smartphone app has battery saver for park mode to ensure it doesn't drop below 12v. This is adjustable.

Took a couple hours including tucking all the wiring into the trim/headliner. If you use the fuses I did, it should be quicker as you won't need to do any trial and error.

I hope this helps!

I also learned my local Best Buy is clueless as the parking mode never worked in my previous vehicle that they installed on. Go figure I do it myself and everything is great.
 

brockdog12

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Ok, I got the Rexing Dash Cam hard wire kit and wanted to tackle the interior fuse box issue first. I found that the panel with the fuse emblem does come off by its self, though with some elbow grease. You think you might break it but you wont, well take it easy, all things considered. The panel has three male protrusions that sink into three female receptors. The bottom one lifts up easily, the upper ones need some convincing. Look at the the photos below and you will see what I mean. It should be an easier removal though. I will be reviewing the needed fuses next, not tonight...

Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. F2ECAC81-6092-4B15-8DBF-417896D465D5
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 458EE961-C9DB-4894-A5D8-0AFF85FC2739
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Block Access. 7B5EA3B6-944D-477F-88B4-3FA854BA7FD6
I didn't get the door code from my dealer so I found the code behind this panel. Didn't bother to read on how to properly remove it, so I pull the cover off and couldn't get it back on, ended up breaking a tab. Found another post on here where it is better to remove the panel under the glove box, then this panel, my bad, lesson learned. I'll fix it.
 

Busybee01

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I didn't get the door code from my dealer so I found the code behind this panel. Didn't bother to read on how to properly remove it, so I pull the cover off and couldn't get it back on, ended up breaking a tab. Found another post on here where it is better to remove the panel under the glove box, then this panel, my bad, lesson learned. I'll fix it.
Were you not able to get the code from the infotainment system? I believe that you can recover the factory code through the vehicle settings if you have both keys. Probably not very useful to you now but for future reference.
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