Ecoboost 2.0 MPC (2025+) Oil Specification Change

[ELCouz]

Previous 2.0L ecoboost was 0w(5w)-30 now it's recommended 0w-20 for the 2.0L MPC (2025+). That's new!

I don't know why 0w-30 is recommended for cold use... doesn't make sense to me.

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[Mark S.]

My Badlands owner's manual specifies 5W30. I suspect the 0W30 spec is reserved for Canadian vehicles. All manufacturers are designing their engines to use thinner oil, because thinner oil reduces friction between moving parts and is easier to pump around the engine. Reduced friction and easier pumping means more energy goes to horsepower at the wheels, which ultimately means better fuel economy.

 

[ELCouz]

My Badlands owner's manual specifies 5W30. I suspect the 0W30 spec is reserved for Canadian vehicles. All manufacturers are designing their engines to use thinner oil, because thinner oil reduces friction between moving parts and is easier to pump around the engine. Reduced friction and easier pumping means more energy goes to horsepower at the wheels, which ultimately means better fuel economy.

What year is your Badlands?

 

[Mark S.]

What year is your Badlands?

Mine is a 2021, but the 5W30 spec applies to all MYs sold in the US including 2025. The online Owner's Manual for the 2025 MY shows:

 

[ELCouz]

Mine is a 2021, but the 5W30 spec applies to all MYs sold in the US including 2025. The online Owner's Manual for the 2025 MY shows:

That is really weird... maybe a mistake in the canadian version looks like they copied the section from the 1.5L MPC.

It doesn't make any sense to recommend 0w-30 for extreme cold and 0w-20 normal climate. It should be 5w-30 and 0w-30 for better cold start flow.

My Focus ST with the ecoboost 2.0L was 5w-30 oil.

 

[Mark S.]

It doesn't make any sense to recommend 0w-30 for extreme cold and 0w-20 normal climate. It should be 5w-30 and 0w-30 for better cold start flow.

You may be right. I didn't notice the recommendation for extreme cold the first time I looked at your original post.

 

[Bill G]

My BL is also a ’21, and the cap even says 5W30 on it. Every service I’ve had done has been at dealer and I’ve just noticed the work order says that the oil change was performed with 5w20 blended.
I’ve never had a problem, and I since I just noticed this I haven’t questioned them. Not going to get too concerned as Ford’s performed all the maintenance and I’ve got a looong extended warranty.

I may bring it up when/if I go in to complain about mechanic using impact wrench on lug nuts instead of hand tightening w/torque wrench. I re-torqued mine after service and a short drive — almost had to stand on a breaker bar to loosen a few of them to retighten to spec.

 

[ELCouz]

My BL is also a ’21, and the cap even says 5W30 on it. Every service I’ve had done has been at dealer and I’ve just noticed the work order says that the oil change was performed with 5w20 blended.
I’ve never had a problem, and I since I just noticed this I haven’t questioned them. Not going to get too concerned as Ford’s performed all the maintenance and I’ve got a looong extended warranty.

I may bring it up when/if I go in to complain about mechanic using impact wrench on lug nuts instead of hand tightening w/torque wrench. I re-torqued mine after service and a short drive — almost had to stand on a breaker bar to loosen a few of them to retighten to spec.

I got an 8 year extended warranty but even with that I want to take care of it until it die (~15 year for Canada, we use insane amount of road salt)

 

[Bill G]

I got an 8 year extended warranty but even with that I want to take care of it until it die (~15 year for Canada, we use insane amount of road salt)

I feel ya, I got 10 year warranty — and I doubt I’ve got 10 years left <lmao>

 

[aaronb73]

I believe this is a copy/paste error from the 1.5 eco boost section only on the PDF version of the 2025 manual.

I’m a new owner of a 2025 badlands and am about to hit 1000 miles. Wanting to do an early oil change I read the PDF version of the manual and saw the 0w-20 recommendation and didn’t think that was correct. That’s when I reviewed the HTML version and saw the difference.

I opted to pay for the 3 day subscription for service manual access to confirm which oil to use and also get the proper torque specs for bolts. In there it also states 5w-30 blended or full synthetic oil for the eco boost 2.0 engine. Likewise the oil cap has 5w-30 on it, so I’m pretty confident this is the correct oil to use.

 

[ELCouz]

I believe this is a copy/paste error only on the PDF version of the 2025 manual.

I’m a new owner of a 2025 badlands and am about to hit 1000 miles. Wanting to do an early oil change I read the PDF version of the manual and saw the 0w-20 recommendation and didn’t think that was correct. That’s when I reviewed the HTML version and saw the difference.

I opted to pay for the 3 day subscription for service manual access to confirm which oil to use and also get the proper torque specs for bolts. In there it also states 5w-30 blended or full synthetic oil for the eco boost 2.0 engine. Likewise the oil cap has 5w-30 on it, so I’m pretty confident this is the correct oil to use.

Thanks... that's what I thought! ?

 

[GoHack]

My Badlands owner's manual specifies 5W30. I suspect the 0W30 spec is reserved for Canadian vehicles. All manufacturers are designing their engines to use thinner oil, because thinner oil reduces friction between moving parts and is easier to pump around the engine. Reduced friction and easier pumping means more energy goes to horsepower at the wheels, which ultimately means better fuel economy.

The 0W-30 can still be used in the summer months.
I used to use that German Castro oil when it was once available here in the US, which was only available in a 0W-30 weight.

The thinner oil, 0W-20 now-a-days, is to please the fuel mileage ratings, but going from a 30 weight down to a 20 won't save that much fuel.
Then too, as the oil gets thinner and thinner, engines will start up dryer and dryer when it comes to having an oil film between parts. The longer they sit not having been run, the dryer the engine will be when it comes to having a lubricant film. Yes, it will take only perhaps milliseconds to get oil up to those parts, but it still takes time, thus you have some metal-to-metal contact, no matter how brief.
Of course, if you drive your vehicle on a regular basis, that won't really matter.
Finally, we're already seeing 0W-16 weight oil being used in some cars, w/0W-12 said to being studied.

Finally, w/the turbocharged cars now-a-days especially, aka Aspirated, the turbos run not only extremely hot, but run at extremely high RPMs, in the 100's of thousands, so they need to be extremely cared for more than ever, vs. that of an engine which doesn't have them, aka as Non-Aspirated.

Yesterday I happened to drive through Death Valley in my BL's. The temperature there was a scorching 116 F. They had signs posted to shut your A/C off in order to prevent overheating. While I did turn mine all the way down, I didn't turn it off. Needless to say, it did start to get warm in my vehicle and I kept an eye on my temperature gauge.
I just had the oil changed the day before using 100% synthetic oil, and boy was I'm glad I did.
The service department told me that the recommended oil was a synthetic blend, and I said no, and that I wanted Full Synthetic. It's gets hot where I live, averaging around 100 F in the summer months, so I wanted Full Synthetic oil, most especially for the turbo. ?

 

[jkernitzki]

The 0W-30 can still be used in the summer months.
I used to use that German Castro oil when it was once available here in the US, which was only available in a 0W-30 weight.

The thinner oil, 0W-20 now-a-days, is to please the fuel mileage ratings, but going from a 30 weight down to a 20 won't save that much fuel.
Then too, as the oil gets thinner and thinner, engines will start up dryer and dryer when it comes to having an oil film between parts. The longer they sit not having been run, the dryer the engine will be when it comes to having a lubricant film. Yes, it will take only perhaps milliseconds to get oil up to those parts, but it still takes time, thus you have some metal-to-metal contact, no matter how brief.
Of course, if you drive your vehicle on a regular basis, that won't really matter.
Finally, we're already seeing 0W-16 weight oil being used in some cars, w/0W-12 said to being studied.

Finally, w/the turbocharged cars now-a-days especially, aka Aspirated, the turbos run not only extremely hot, but run at extremely high RPMs, in the 100's of thousands, so they need to be extremely cared for more than ever, vs. that of an engine which doesn't have them, aka as Non-Aspirated.

Yesterday I happened to drive through Death Valley in my BL's. The temperature there was a scorching 116 F. They had signs posted to shut your A/C off in order to prevent overheating. While I did turn mine all the way down, I didn't turn it off. Needless to say, it did start to get warm in my vehicle and I kept an eye on my temperature gauge.
I just had the oil changed the day before using 100% synthetic oil, and boy was I'm glad I did.
The service department told me that the recommended oil was a synthetic blend, and I said no, and that I wanted Full Synthetic. It's gets hot where I live, averaging around 100 F in the summer months, so I wanted Full Synthetic oil, most especially for the turbo. ?

Seems like there’s a diminishing returns curve with going ever lighter in oil weight, colder climate recommendations notwithstanding. I’ll stick with 5W-30 though until there’s compelling evidence otherwise.

BTW, all engines are aspirated, else they’d never run (the “suck” part ). Some are naturally aspirated, or NA (carbureted without mechanical air intake assistance), others are forced induction (super- or turbocharged).

 

[GoHack]

Seems like there’s a diminishing returns curve with going ever lighter in oil weight, colder climate recommendations notwithstanding. I’ll stick with 5W-30 though until there’s compelling evidence otherwise.

BTW, all engines are aspirated, else they’d never run (the “suck” part ). Some are naturally aspirated, or NA (carbureted without mechanical air intake assistance), others are forced induction (super- or turbocharged).

A Naturally Aspirated Engine, also known as a normally aspirated engine, and abbreviated to N/A or NA, is an internal combustion engine in which air intake depends solely on atmospheric pressure and does not have forced induction through a turbocharger or a supercharger.

An Aspirated Engine uses forced induction through a turbocharger or a supercharger.

 

[wireman]

2025 Toyota Corolla use 0W-8. Crazy.

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