Do lifts cause long-term problems with the Badlands?

[jk6661]

I want to get a quality (e.g. Ford Ranger Lifts or similar) 1.5-1.75-inch lift for my Badlands. An off-road shop made a very big deal about how they would install it for me, but I had to agree to assume all the risk of something breaking eventually. They said this is especially likely with the Badlands because it is already lifted from the factory compared to other trims. This isn’t what I wanted to hear. Do you all agree with this reasoning? Is a lift for the Badlands a bad idea? Have those of you who’ve done it had something break because of the lift, and thus not be covered by the factory warranty?

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[B-Dog15]

I want to get a quality (e.g. Ford Ranger Lifts or similar) 1.5-1.75-inch lift for my Badlands. An off-road shop made a very big deal about how they would install it for me, but I had to agree to assume all the risk of something breaking eventually. They said this is especially likely with the Badlands because it is already lifted from the factory compared to other trims. This isn’t what I wanted to hear. Do you all agree with this reasoning? Is a lift for the Badlands a bad idea? Have those of you who’ve done it had something break because of the lift, and thus not be covered by the factory warranty?

I don’t think that it is Badlands specific to be honest. Anytime you lift a vehicle it will change the geometry that the vehicle was built on and intended to be driven on which I would assume can put a different stress on certain parts which could lead to early failure.
I feel like the hard part about a question like this is that these little trucks have only been out for a few years so it’s hard to gauge what the long term effects of something like a lift would be.

 

[Mark S.]

It sounds like your selected shop is setting reasonable expectations. Lifting the vehicle will change suspension geometry just as @B-Dog15 says, and there isn't enough long-term data to know how this will affect component longevity. It stands to reason that some components will experience increased wear.

Something the shop didn't mention: damage caused by the installation of a lift kit--which may occur during the installation procedure, or after installation, during normal vehicle use--may not be covered by warranty. This may not be an issue if you're already beyond the 3yr/36k basic warranty, but may be something to consider if you have purchased an extended warranty.

 

[RSH]

Theoretically a lift can cause the CV joints to wear faster because of the change in angle of the CV joints, the CV boots could also wear faster as well.
CV joint angle is not static, its always changing with compression and extension of the suspension, angle also changes when steering, but you do not drive for long periods with the steering at full lock, thereby limiting the wear do to greater CV joint angle.
Another possible wear item would be the tires, if the wheel alignment is not corrected after the lift the tires can be subjected to uneven wear.
Most of the lifts available will not subject the CV joints to angles severe enough to cause alarm.
Most issues with lifts have have been caused do to incorrect installation or poor workmanship during installation where parts get damaged.

 

[NoOneHereYet]

I want to get a quality (e.g. Ford Ranger Lifts or similar) 1.5-1.75-inch lift for my Badlands. An off-road shop made a very big deal about how they would install it for me, but I had to agree to assume all the risk of something breaking eventually. They said this is especially likely with the Badlands because it is already lifted from the factory compared to other trims. This isn’t what I wanted to hear. Do you all agree with this reasoning? Is a lift for the Badlands a bad idea? Have those of you who’ve done it had something break because of the lift, and thus not be covered by the factory warranty?

I have the 1.5" HRG lift which unlike most other companies specifically designed their stuff for the Badlands and actually test it, there is videos of them doing so, it fits better and is slightly stronger. I know someone who did the Rough Country and it never sat correctly and eventually had to be swapped out. When it comes to the Bronco Sport 90% of all those making parts are making them for the 1.5 which is a completely different motor, drivetrain, and suspension setup. Even when you get underneath the different versions the BS has some skids pre installed, not good but installed. You really have to be conscious of the parts and who makes them. ALWAYS read the fine print.

As far as my experience, so far so good driving the mountains of Idaho

Ford Ranger lifts does make a Badlands specific lift, but you have to make sure that is the one you get, and that is the one installed.

 

[gatornek]

I do believe that when you swap out suspension parts in pursuit of an aesthetic, you end up drastically changing the feel of the ride. I learned this lesson with my Mustang 1.5 inch drop lower springs on all 4 corners, and these are considered "minimum drop". Does the car "look" much more sleek? Yes. But now I feel every oddity on the road. And I panic whenever I see speed bumps. I don't think there's any difference if you're lowering or lifting. Your ride isn't going to FEEL the same.

 

[Mark S.]

When it comes to the Bronco Sport 90% of all those making parts are making them for the 1.5 which is a completely different motor, drivetrain, and suspension setup.

I think "completely" is overstatement. The engine is completely different, but the drivetrain and suspensions are quite similar. The transmissions are the same. The Badlands adds liquid cooling for the power transfer unit and a twin-clutch configuration for the rear differential. As far as the suspension, the Badlands has slightly longer springs, and shocks that incorporate hydraulic rebound stops. All other suspension components are the same.

 

[NoOneHereYet]

I think "completely" is overstatement. The engine is completely different, but the drivetrain and suspensions are quite similar. The transmissions are the same. The Badlands adds liquid cooling for the power transfer unit and a twin-clutch configuration for the rear differential. As far as the suspension, the Badlands has slightly longer springs, and shocks that incorporate hydraulic rebound stops. All other suspension components are the same.

Yes, you are correct, but I said "setup" for a reason because depending on how it is setup greatly impacts what you can do, and what parts you can add to that current setup. Just like the way the front of a Big Bend is setup you can add a brush bar, where as with a Badlands, you have to remove the tow hooks and you would block the front camera even if you did that. If you put a leveling kit on a Big Bend which suspension sits a full inch lower vs on Badlands, it impacts the control arms etc... The point is if your BS has "x" setup, you can only buy parts that are specific for "x" unless you want to fully remove "x" and install "y". It's all possible if you want to rebuild a different setup. I think you just took what I said too technically.

 

[TheCornerKing]

I have performed lifts in my garage on a few badlands (only spacer lifts, no suspension lift cause the suck) and my commentary comes from real world experience followed up by alignment data. I will break this down for the front first.

Most lifts are spacer lifts and raise the body up from the strut tower point (within the 1.0.1.75” range). The 2” lifts and a 1” spacer between the subframe assembly and the body.

From the front, the lower range lift has no affect on steering, drive axles, cv joints or alignment as it raises the body above the strut tower bushing. Alignment numbers confirm no change to once installed.. If you go 2” lift, relocating the subframe does affect the alignment, driveaxle angle and is the max you can use without more customized solutions (longer axle shaft from transmission to outer cv joint.

The rear is a whole different ballgame though. A spacer added to the spring essentially simulating elongating the spring for 1” to 1.75 lifts. The alignment is affected significantly (toe-in and camber specifically). In a 2” lift, a spacer is added between the subframe structure and the body further affecting suspension articulation and alignment. All alignment I had performed by my local professional were adjusted back into spec and no additional parts required. All driveshaft angles are within degrees of acceptance for CV joint usage and are not out or range for a two” lift per cv axle manufacturer’s specs.

Conclusion: we are talking 1 to 2 inches, not a 7” lift with 40’s on them. I would guess, from a liability perspective, the off road shop that does the work has not performed the lift before, does not have experience with the product manufacturers, and does not want to accept any liability for performed work because the have been burnt by a customer with unrealistic expectations before.

I recommend @HRG Offroad lifts specifically because I know the quality as I have personally installed a few lifts offered by them. You call their support line, you get a person with intimate knowledge with Bronco Sport lifts and have installed and tested them significantly (search the YT).

We are lifting our BS 1-2” here, everybody simmer down.

 

[wireman]

I want to get a quality (e.g. Ford Ranger Lifts or similar) 1.5-1.75-inch lift for my Badlands. An off-road shop made a very big deal about how they would install it for me, but I had to agree to assume all the risk of something breaking eventually. They said this is especially likely with the Badlands because it is already lifted from the factory compared to other trims. This isn’t what I wanted to hear. Do you all agree with this reasoning? Is a lift for the Badlands a bad idea? Have those of you who’ve done it had something break because of the lift, and thus not be covered by the factory warranty?

Talk to your local Ford dealer. My dealer warranties lift kits that they install. Might cost more but that may be an option for you.

 

[jk6661]

I have performed lifts in my garage on a few badlands (only spacer lifts, no suspension lift cause the suck) and my commentary comes from real world experience followed up by alignment data. I will break this down for the front first.

Most lifts are spacer lifts and raise the body up from the strut tower point (within the 1.0.1.75” range). The 2” lifts and a 1” spacer between the subframe assembly and the body.

From the front, the lower range lift has no affect on steering, drive axles, cv joints or alignment as it raises the body above the strut tower bushing. Alignment numbers confirm no change to once installed.. If you go 2” lift, relocating the subframe does affect the alignment, driveaxle angle and is the max you can use without more customized solutions (longer axle shaft from transmission to outer cv joint.

The rear is a whole different ballgame though. A spacer added to the spring essentially simulating elongating the spring for 1” to 1.75 lifts. The alignment is affected significantly (toe-in and camber specifically). In a 2” lift, a spacer is added between the subframe structure and the body further affecting suspension articulation and alignment. All alignment I had performed by my local professional were adjusted back into spec and no additional parts required. All driveshaft angles are within degrees of acceptance for CV joint usage and are not out or range for a two” lift per cv axle manufacturer’s specs.

Conclusion: we are talking 1 to 2 inches, not a 7” lift with 40’s on them. I would guess, from a liability perspective, the off road shop that does the work has not performed the lift before, does not have experience with the product manufacturers, and does not want to accept any liability for performed work because the have been burnt by a customer with unrealistic expectations before.

I recommend @HRG Offroad lifts specifically because I know the quality as I have personally installed a few lifts offered by them. You call their support line, you get a person with intimate knowledge with Bronco Sport lifts and have installed and tested them significantly (search the YT).

We are lifting our BS 1-2” here, everybody simmer down.

Thanks. So what you appear to be saying is that even in the back, your shop was able to adjust the alignment back into spec, so you don't expect any long-term problems? I am leaning towards the 1.5" HRG lift if I were to do this.

 

[Ksnau]

In my experience especially with small lifts if it's done right there is no appreciable increase in wear on the vehicle assuming they are quality parts. So do your homework. Make sure to get a good kit that's been done by multiple people and, you can be reasonably assured that they're real reviews. And, if you're not confident in your install again, do your homework and find a good shop. Ask around in the community for a good shop in your area if you don't know of one to get the install done.

It can be taken a few different ways but it seems like to me the shop is saying is we'll install it and we'll do our part right. But we have no control. Beyond that, we didn't make these parts and so we're not going to be liable for them. Which is reasonable in a way. But also if they don't think the parts are good, they shouldn't install them and they should be inspecting them first and they should be inspecting your vehicle to make sure it's ready for Lift and doesn't have other problems already. It's kind of hard cuz you can take that both ways. You can take that as that's a bad place cuz they don't want to take any responsibility or like it's been said they've been burned by people and they don't want to take responsibility in case the problems don't come from their work.

Honestly, if you can't install a Lift yourself, I would reconsider modifying your vehicle. If you want to get into this game, you should really have the necessary knowledge and tools and ability and these days it's not that hard to get there And there's a lot of support like these forums. And I will say some YouTube channels. Be careful about who you listen to on any media though And like anything try to check multiple sources.

 

[jk6661]

Honestly, if you can't install a Lift yourself, I would reconsider modifying your vehicle. If you want to get into this game, you should really have the necessary knowledge and tools and ability and these days it's not that hard to get there And there's a lot of support like these forums. And I will say some YouTube channels. Be careful about who you listen to on any media though And like anything try to check multiple sources.

I appreciate the advice, but understand that not all of us have the money or space for a fully outfitted garage. For example, I live in a townhouse with no garage at all, and I have no space to store all the tools needed to work on a vehicle even if it's sitting in the driveway. I also don't have the time, energy, or inclination to train myself to become a full-on mechanic from scratch. None of this means I shouldn't get my vehicle modified by a reputable shop.

 

[Black Rob]

RTR makes the highest quality spacer lift for the sport. I’ve been running it for over a year. Drives like it did from the factory.

 

[TheCornerKing]

Thanks. So what you appear to be saying is that even in the back, your shop was able to adjust the alignment back into spec, so you don't expect any long-term problems? I am leaning towards the 1.5" HRG lift if I were to do this.

I wheel my BS Badlands hard here in Southern California and no problems. The kits reuse factory hardware or replacement hardware at factory locations. They are pretty basic lifts compared to other vehicle platforms. I have perfect alignment after my lift and 12,000 of miles of on and off-road driving and zero issues. No real mechanical weak points from my perspective.

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