Installing aftermarket speakers and sub in Bronco Sport!

[Shumax]

Which wires were tapped into for signal for the larger sub? Photos?

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[Shumax]

I have a 2024 with the B&O system. About to add an amp and sub. Where should I tap into for signal? Color of wires and location? Which is + and which is - ?Thanks?

 

[aesthet1c]

Just chiming in here for anyone reading that on the 2024, it seems you need the adapter plate for both front and rear speakers. I'll update this post to confirm once the adapters arrive, but got the front and rear door panels off and the speakers don't fit either on their own.

 

[aesthet1c]

Updating here, I did in fact need the 82-5605 speaker adapter plate for both front and rear in the 2024 Big Bend.

I only did the driver side front/back for now (waiting on extra speaker adapters) and unfortunately, immediately after install and listening, the front left speaker has a noticeable crackle–could it be because I only did the left side? Speakers are Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers if that matters.

I tried adjusting some of the stock sound levels and if I remove bass completely, or put most of the sound in the rear of the car, it mostly goes away.. but the sound then feels off or weird.

Any ideas?

 

[jaytan85]

Updating here, I did in fact need the 82-5605 speaker adapter plate for both front and rear in the 2024 Big Bend.

I only did the driver side front/back for now (waiting on extra speaker adapters) and unfortunately, immediately after install and listening, the front left speaker has a noticeable crackle–could it be because I only did the left side? Speakers are Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers if that matters.

I tried adjusting some of the stock sound levels and if I remove bass completely, or put most of the sound in the rear of the car, it mostly goes away.. but the sound then feels off or weird.

Any ideas?

If you only changed the driver side and that side has a crackle, the speakers may have came broken.

 

[incavulator]

I have a 2024 with the B&O system. About to add an amp and sub. Where should I tap into for signal? Color of wires and location? Which is + and which is - ?Thanks?

Sorry this is a bit late, but I think I have the answer. I just finished installing a Rockford Fosgate Punch 300-10 in my BS BL with the B&O system. I really wanted to use a full range signal because I didn't want the factory DSP/amp to remove any content, especially low frequency content. In looking through the wiring diagrams, there are only two pairs (L and R) of low level signals and those run between the Sync module (screen) and the audio control module, which are both located in the center stack and look like a real pain to get to. It doesn't appear that the low level signals are sent in conventional fashion to the DSP/amp. It appears there is some sort of communication protocol that is being used. Since I didn't want to tear half the instrument panel apart just to get to these wires, I went a different route.

The Punch 300-10 accepts both low and high level inputs. Since high level signals were readily available at the factory DSP/amp located behind the left rear trim panel, and I had to get in there anyway to install the trailer wiring harness, I decided to use these to supply signal to the Punch.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the factory B&O DSP/amp, it indicated there was one pair of wires (+ green w/violet stripe and - gray) for the subwoofer, and then + and - for each of the four main door speakers (fronts are listed as "full range" and rear door speakers are listed as "woofer"). The high level tweeter wires do NOT come out of this amp. It appears they come directly out of the audio control module up front.

Since I was wiring the vehicle before the Punch 300-10 arrived, I decided to tap into the front left and right "full range" door speakers as well as the factory sub wires. My plan was to try both combinations and see which worked the best. Here are my findings:

When using the L & R front "full range" as inputs, it sounds like the factory DSP/amp is using a high pass filter and I wasn't getting much low bass from the Punch. This is probably to protect the front speakers from excessive low frequency damage.

When using the factory sub wires as inputs, the output from the addition of the Punch was quite impressive - I mean shaking the rear view mirror impressive, and playing fairly low in the frequency range, as well! NOTE: When wiring this way, the Punch 300-10 is set up for two sets of inputs (four wires ----> left and right, positive and negative for each), but the BS only has one pair of wires for the factory "subwoofer." So, I wired the single pair of wires from the BS sub to BOTH inputs (i.e. tied all three negatives together and all three positives together). Also, I did not disconnect the factory sub. I ensured they were phased properly and they are both operating.

It's only been in for a couple hours, but I had a chance to go through a sample of songs that I use for demos. I've been pretty deep in the car stereo swamp for 30+ years. I have three other vehicles with 10" or 12" subs at 1200-1500 watts, and a full home theater, so I have a pretty good idea of what these tracks SHOULD sound like with a capable system, and I have to admit, the Punch 300-10 is VERY impressive, especially for it's size. That was the main reason I selected it - I didn't want to take up too much space in the hatch area of the BS. The 10's and 12's I have in my other vehicles are SIGNIFICANTLY larger than this Punch. As much as I enjoy those subs, I just wasn't willing to sacrifice that much space on this vehicle and so far, I couldn't be happier.

The ability to use high-level inputs and the auto turn on feature also simplified the installation. I didn't need 4 gauge - 8 gauge was sufficient, and I didn't need to run a dedicated switched power to turn on the Punch. It detects audio or DC offset on the inputs.

 

[Dude]

Sorry this is a bit late, but I think I have the answer. I just finished installing a Rockford Fosgate Punch 300-10 in my BS BL with the B&O system. I really wanted to use a full range signal because I didn't want the factory DSP/amp to remove any content, especially low frequency content. In looking through the wiring diagrams, there are only two pairs (L and R) of low level signals and those run between the Sync module (screen) and the audio control module, which are both located in the center stack and look like a real pain to get to. It doesn't appear that the low level signals are sent in conventional fashion to the DSP/amp. It appears there is some sort of communication protocol that is being used. Since I didn't want to tear half the instrument panel apart just to get to these wires, I went a different route.

The Punch 300-10 accepts both low and high level inputs. Since high level signals were readily available at the factory DSP/amp located behind the left rear trim panel, and I had to get in there anyway to install the trailer wiring harness, I decided to use these to supply signal to the Punch.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the factory B&O DSP/amp, it indicated there was one pair of wires (+ green w/violet stripe and - gray) for the subwoofer, and then + and - for each of the four main door speakers (fronts are listed as "full range" and rear door speakers are listed as "woofer"). The high level tweeter wires do NOT come out of this amp. It appears they come directly out of the audio control module up front.

Since I was wiring the vehicle before the Punch 300-10 arrived, I decided to tap into the front left and right "full range" door speakers as well as the factory sub wires. My plan was to try both combinations and see which worked the best. Here are my findings:

When using the L & R front "full range" as inputs, it sounds like the factory DSP/amp is using a high pass filter and I wasn't getting much low bass from the Punch. This is probably to protect the front speakers from excessive low frequency damage.

When using the factory sub wires as inputs, the output from the addition of the Punch was quite impressive - I mean shaking the rear view mirror impressive, and playing fairly low in the frequency range, as well! NOTE: When wiring this way, the Punch 300-10 is set up for two sets of inputs (four wires ----> left and right, positive and negative for each), but the BS only has one pair of wires for the factory "subwoofer." So, I wired the single pair of wires from the BS sub to BOTH inputs (i.e. tied all three negatives together and all three positives together). Also, I did not disconnect the factory sub. I ensured they were phased properly and they are both operating.

It's only been in for a couple hours, but I had a chance to go through a sample of songs that I use for demos. I've been pretty deep in the car stereo swamp for 30+ years. I have three other vehicles with 10" or 12" subs at 1200-1500 watts, and a full home theater, so I have a pretty good idea of what these tracks SHOULD sound like with a capable system, and I have to admit, the Punch 300-10 is VERY impressive, especially for it's size. That was the main reason I selected it - I didn't want to take up too much space in the hatch area of the BS. The 10's and 12's I have in my other vehicles are SIGNIFICANTLY larger than this Punch. As much as I enjoy those subs, I just wasn't willing to sacrifice that much space on this vehicle and so far, I couldn't be happier.

The ability to use high-level inputs and the auto turn on feature also simplified the installation. I didn't need 4 gauge - 8 gauge was sufficient, and I didn't need to run a dedicated switched power to turn on the Punch. It detects audio or DC offset on the inputs.

That’s a great report!! Plenty of details, even without pics was very descriptive and I enjoyed reading your account. Could easily visually the steps from the details you provided. You probably write for a living or a hobby?

 

[incavulator]

That’s a great report!! Plenty of details, even without pics was very descriptive and I enjoyed reading your account. Could easily visually the steps from the details you provided. You probably write for a living or a hobby?

Wow, Dude. That's quite a compliment. Thank you very much! I don't officially write for a living, but written communications are definitely a big portion of my job.

That was my first post, as I just bought a 21 BS BL and just joined the forum. Looking forward to sharing info here, hoping I can help others as much (or more!) as they have helped me.

Have a GREAT night!!

 

[rugedraw]

Looking at the wiring diagram for the factory B&O DSP/amp, it indicated there was one pair of wires (+ green w/violet stripe and - gray) for the subwoofer, and then + and - for each of the four main door speakers (fronts are listed as "full range" and rear door speakers are listed as "woofer"). The high level tweeter wires do NOT come out of this amp. It appears they come directly out of the audio control module up front.

Since I was wiring the vehicle before the Punch 300-10 arrived, I decided to tap into the front left and right "full range" door speakers as well as the factory sub wires. My plan was to try both combinations and see which worked the best. Here are my findings:

When using the L & R front "full range" as inputs, it sounds like the factory DSP/amp is using a high pass filter and I wasn't getting much low bass from the Punch. This is probably to protect the front speakers from excessive low frequency damage.

On these vehicles with the 10-speakers set up, the ACM powers the center channel and 2 dash mounted tweeters and the other 7 speakers (including the sub) are powered by the DSP. Without using a t-harness to pull the signal up front, tapping into the sub is for sure the right way to go.

The only draw back to this method is that at high volume (and depending on how hard the sub hits), you may get some unwanted bass roll-off. Installing an LC2i with a bass control knob solved this issue for me in my truck.

I do like this sub box to put in the BS, though. For the same reasons as you, I don't want a big box taking up space in the back of this vehicle due to how we use it.

 

[TheX]

I don't want a big box taking up space in the back of this vehicle due to how we use it.

Very much ^^this^^.

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