Raptor grill accent lights

[Buck Savage]

Looking like I'm going tackle the raptor and rock light installation this weekend so wish me luck...anyone have tips on wire routing for the wheel bays in back to front engine compartment?

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[Pmk1710]

The interior #3 is on with ignition but I have heard it shuts off with auto stop, no big deal.

I have not had this issue. I have the NiLight 6 gang, fuse tap has original 10amp + 5amp on the tap. Start/stop has had no effect on the power to the backlit

 

[Pmk1710]

Looking like I'm going tackle the raptor and rock light installation this weekend so wish me luck...anyone have tips on wire routing for the wheel bays in back to front engine compartment?

i would just pull back the fabric under carriage/wheel wells. Tuck the wire in, zip tie in a few places, and pop the fabric back into place. Be careful of the jack support spots, don’t want to pinch the wire if you ever need to jack the car up and potentially tear it. Just follow the metal body lip once to pull the under carriage fabric back a bit

once you get to the front wheel well, you’re in the clear.

 

[Andrezzi]

I'm powering up my Trigger 4 plus wireless controller from taped 3 keyed power . and running over and out through driver door plug. Running wires through anywhere around dash is a challenge. making hole is an option but looks dangerous to hit something stuff all over the place on both sides.

 

[Pmk1710]

I'm powering up my Trigger 4 plus wireless controller from taped 3 keyed power . and running over and out through driver door plug. Running wires through anywhere around dash is a challenge. making hole is an option but looks dangerous to hit something stuff all over the place on both sides.

That seems like a lot of excess wire running behind areas that you don’t need to access, unless you’re using it for interior lighting?

if your mounting your wireless controller in the engine bay, the only wire you’re going to need to run into the main cabin is your turn key power supply. You’re switch is wireless, so nothing there to run, just find a spot to mount that where you want, or use the app for the switches.

1 firewall pass through is above the passenger fuse box and is unobstructed in the engine bay. Unlike the driver side access which required me to take the battery out just to get a clear working area (and that process of battery removal is back-asswards!).

when I have time today when the sun comes up, I’ll take some photos of what I did with my wiring to try and give some better visuals. But based on what I read through for your controller, there is only 1 wire that needs to come into the cabin, and that route is pretty simple.

 

[Martinjv71]

Audexen 7” work lights - based on the mount bracket angle and their size, I had to offset it just a tad. I grabbed some 2” metal joiner plates, drilled out the holes larger to fit the mounting bolts. I just need to powder coat them (and probably all the mounting hardware) and it’s will look fairly clean. No huge rush to get that done though.

Is this about Raptor lights? I believe that is what this post is for. You may want to make a relevant thread.

 

[Pmk1710]

Is this about Raptor lights? I believe that is what this post is for. You may want to make a relevant thread.

It started with the raptor lights and expanded into an entire light project. I was asked what the large lights were, so I answered.

Then we all started talking about wiring strategies. It’s how discussions go

 

[GoatsyBanks]

I have not had this issue. I have the NiLight 6 gang, fuse tap has original 10amp + 5amp on the tap. Start/stop has had no effect on the power to the backlit

That is good to hear.
And that's on #3?

 

[GoatsyBanks]

Is this about Raptor lights? I believe that is what this post is for. You may want to make a relevant thread.

He was answering a question for me.

 

[Pmk1710]

That is good to hear.
And that's on #3?

 

[Pmk1710]

That seems like a lot of excess wire running behind areas that you don’t need to access, unless you’re using it for interior lighting?

if your mounting your wireless controller in the engine bay, the only wire you’re going to need to run into the main cabin is your turn key power supply. You’re switch is wireless, so nothing there to run, just find a spot to mount that where you want, or use the app for the switches.

1 firewall pass through is above the passenger fuse box and is unobstructed in the engine bay. Unlike the driver side access which required me to take the battery out just to get a clear working area (and that process of battery removal is back-asswards!).

when I have time today when the sun comes up, I’ll take some photos of what I did with my wiring to try and give some better visuals. But based on what I read through for your controller, there is only 1 wire that needs to come into the cabin, and that route is pretty simple.

this firewall pass through drops just to the top right of the passenger fuse box. I untwisted a metal shirt hanger and used It to poke through from the inside, then taped the wire to the end, and pulled from the engine side.

You can get your finger inside the rubber gasket a bit from the inside, you will feel a fold/crevice that is away from the main wire assembly. Guide the coat hanger tip into that crevice and push through the outside into the engine compartment. This Kept the tip of the hanger away from nicking the main assembly.

then you can run the wire to the driver side where you have you’re controller.

tap into fuse 3. Make sure the original 10amp fuse is inserted in the first slot closest to the tap pins, and your added fuse is inserted into the slot on top.

you should be golden from there

 

[Andrezzi]

this firewall pass through drops just to the top right of the passenger fuse box. I untwisted a metal shirt hanger and used It to poke through from the inside, then taped the wire to the end, and pulled from the engine side.

You can get your finger inside the rubber gasket a bit from the inside, you will feel a fold/crevice that is away from the main wire assembly. Guide the coat hanger tip into that crevice and push through the outside into the engine compartment. This Kept the tip of the hanger away from nicking the main assembly.

then you can run the wire to the driver side where you have you’re controller.

tap into fuse 3. Make sure the original 10amp fuse is inserted in the first slot closest to the tap pins, and your added fuse is inserted into the slot on top.

you should be golden from there

Thanks that looks like a good spot will try to go through there.

 

[Pmk1710]

Same here. I'm thinking the mesh would be great over all the openings.
Did you take the grill off to do the lights?
I haven't found a grill removal video yet but i'm going to dive into it soon. Maybe I'll video it.

ok, step 1- remove the air intake tube running to the air filter:

there are 2 push pins located in the small circles. Take a flat head and pry the top up enough to loosen the tension, then take the flathead and pry under the whole tab to remove. The connection to the air filter box (big circle) just pops right out.

step2- remove top grill guard (2 steps)
1-

Remove these 4 screws
2-

There are 6 of these screws on the inside of the grille/top guard (picture only has 4) remove.

you should be able to pull the top guard right out. This will expose the “cavity” directly behind the upper portion of the grille. From there, I drilled the wire holes through the plastic honeycomb fake grille and mounting bolts. Then ran the wires towards the driver side headlight and up to my controller next to my battery.

replace in reverse order, air intake is last thing you re-mount.

there are also those little square caps on the upper grille cover. Those pop out and you can use them to run wires too… but I didn’t want my hood to get too close to the wires in fear of a pinch, so I ran under the grille guard.

 

[GoatsyBanks]

Thanks for everyone sharing their work!
Always great to see how these things are being done in different ways giving us all more options.
I "was" planning on putting the lights in the lower half of the grill by making a backer plate, blah blah blah...
I saw one once and thought it looked good. The back of the lights I have would need a way bigger hole (3/8-1/2") and they have mounting holes on each side for screws...
Needless to say they are not as clean as the ones you got...and I wanted them white to match the paint so that limited the options. I might go with something different. I'll figure it out and post some picks when it's done.

 

[Pmk1710]

I would still do the holes, but get some black rubber washers that can conceal the hole if the hole diameter is wider than the light unit. That will also help reduce water collecting around the electrical

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