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jlmazzola

jlmazzola

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I’m absolutely interested in replacing the speakers in my OB w/o the OB package. Quick questions:

1 - do you have to remove the whole door panel, or can you just pop off the speaker grill? Did the panels easily pop off, or was there a struggle? When you popped the panels back on, were they tight?

2 - what color speaker wire was used to tap into the sub? And did you tap into the front or back speakers?
1- you do have to pop off the door panel and it was quite easy to do, one thing is that each of 5 or 6 screws have different head sizes. But all common at least. They popped of fairly easy just gliding your hand along the edges. Lastly they popped back in without any trouble or rattling.

2- I unfortunately never got a pic of which colour wire was tapped into but I do know that it was tapped into on the back left side driver side and connected from the rear speakers.
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Javs9

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I haven’t seen any usefull info on this subject, so im going to have my baby bronco go under the knife professionally later today and upload photos of the job & will try to provide as much detail as possible. FYI I have the Bronco Sport Big Bend (6 Speaker),

*UPDATE* Pictures Below!
just curious as to how much this cost?
 

fontzmark

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I’m absolutely interested in replacing the speakers in my OB w/o the OB package. Quick questions:

1 - do you have to remove the whole door panel, or can you just pop off the speaker grill? Did the panels easily pop off, or was there a struggle? When you popped the panels back on, were they tight?

2 - what color speaker wire was used to tap into the sub? And did you tap into the front or back speakers?
just curious as to how much this cost?
i went to 2 audio stores today and at both places "the guy" was off on Mondays. It looks tempting to attempt but I'm going to check prices and just see what I can get installed it seems like there is good bang for the buck in new door speakers, I can probably figure out the sub and order a truck type sub like mentioned above.
 

fontzmark

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i went to 2 audio stores today and at both places "the guy" was off on Mondays. It looks tempting to attempt but I'm going to check prices and just see what I can get installed it seems like there is good bang for the buck in new door speakers, I can probably figure out the sub and order a truck type sub like mentioned above.
Well they were actually off on Tuesdays, felt like Monday though.
 
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jlmazzola

jlmazzola

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just curious as to how much this cost?
Hey so I paid for everything including 4 new speakers, subwoofer & installation/labour $1800CAD which is about $1400US

You could definitely spend a lot less, buying cheaper speakers & sub but I kind of wanted the best I could afford.
 


MuddyBoots

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So in case your wondering we just upgraded all speakers to the following. Using only the factory radio.

Alpine R-Series 6.5" 100 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms 2-Way Coaxial Speakers with H.A.M.R. - Pair (RS652)

Changing to a coax speaker meant I got to also keep and use the factory tweeters in the upper dash.

The sub of choice for me was Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10 which was absolutely awesome.
Interesting, never thought about using a coax speaker with a separate tweeter...does this cause any weird sound issue because there's essentially 2 pairs of tweeters (in the coax speaker and in the dash)? I was considering putting a new component system in but I'm just now realizing that would likely mean I would have to run the wire from the new tweeter down to the crossover for the component speaker, instead of just splicing the new tweeter's cable into old tweeter's cable...

Also, did you use an amplifier (if so, which one?) or was it all powered from the stock head unit?
 
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jlmazzola

jlmazzola

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Interesting, never thought about using a coax speaker with a separate tweeter...does this cause any weird sound issue because there's essentially 2 pairs of tweeters (in the coax speaker and in the dash)? I was considering putting a new component system in but I'm just now realizing that would likely mean I would have to run the wire from the new tweeter down to the crossover for the component speaker, instead of just splicing the new tweeter's cable into old tweeter's cable...

Also, did you use an amplifier (if so, which one?) or was it all powered from the stock head unit?
Yeah I'm with you I never thought of doing coax and leaving the factory tweeter either, but the installer recommended it as I'm using the factory radio and NOT a separate amp. So its all running off the stock head unit EQ, I'm glad he did do it that way because the clarity is actually fantastic and not overwhelming.
 

SLJ

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For those of you only replacing the 6.5" factory speakers and not adding a sub, what ones have you used that sound better?
 

forty

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Did this install myself today, took about 6 hours and a lot of that was on the first door. Basically being as careful as I could not to break pins or damage the doors. I also went with the same Alpine speakers as I have owned them in the past and always like them.

All of the auto-parts stores near me sell door panel remover tools which help with the process as opposed to brute forcing the panel off.

For the install:

*2x Pairs of Alpine R-S65.2 199$ ea Amazon
*1x pair of Metra Adapter plates as listed above $16.25 Amazon
*Door Panel remover took $10 autoparts store

total $426.25

As OP stated, its not too hard to remove the panels once you figure it out. Screw locations are as follows:

1x beind door handle as shown
1x behind reflector
2x on the bottom of panel
2x under and behind the window ctrl panels (large metal screws, metal reinforced, very secure)

This was the same on all four doors, and all of the parts you remove come off easily and cleanly.. no damage. When putting the panel ON you start at the top and hang the portion up by the glass and then work downward. Consider this when taking it off, its okay to pry back the hanging portion by the glass toward the end of removal.

Front:

You will only use the metra adapter, not the metra and alpine. Otherwise the panel will not fit back on. Also, the inside portion of the metra adapter ring needs to be cut or cleaned out. The parts on the inside of the circle affect the placement of the alpine speaker within it and wont seat properly. I used a dremel to take care of that. You also have to dremel or cut out the screw slots all the way up to the ring or drill a hole there for it to line up with the three mounting screws on the bronco, again pretty easy and self explanatory when you do it. Lastly, I drilled a 1/4” hole to run the speaker wires through the metra adapters so they would run behind the speaker.

Rear:

The same process but you just use the alpine brackets that are included. The rear wires are a bit shorter and tougher to work with. As with the front you will have to drill a small hole to run the wire behind the speaker. Choose the most efficient path for the wire because its short, otherwise add wire to make it easier.

For all four I chose to solder though you can crimp and use the slide on connectors, just make sure they are tight.

Overall Impressions:

The factory speakers are definitely cheap and an upgrade here isn't bad. There is a big difference in overall sound, especially in the mids and highs. The clarity is amazing and the bass can be great depending on the frequency. They are brand new and need some time to break in so I expect them to get better as time goes on. If you are even more ambitious, an amp would do these well as the factory unit will not supply anywhere near there rated capabilities. Overall I am completely happy with the upgrade for $426. No buzzing, rattling, etc, the door panel design is actually pretty damn good and is very secure and tight when fastened.
 


SilverVVolf

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OP, forgive me if you covered this. I couldn't find it if you did. I know you said that you have a BB with the factory 6 speaker system, but did you see if you have the OEM cavities for the 10 speaker system like in the higher models with the B&O? Mine is the latter but I have a buddy thinking about getting a BB and wants to know if the cavities exist so he can put in 10 speakers aftermarket like mine.
 

forty

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OP, forgive me if you covered this. I couldn't find it if you did. I know you said that you have a BB with the factory 6 speaker system, but did you see if you have the OEM cavities for the 10 speaker system like in the higher models with the B&O? Mine is the latter but I have a buddy thinking about getting a BB and wants to know if the cavities exist so he can put in 10 speakers aftermarket like mine.
Not op but one of the ten speakers is center of the dashboard no? And if you dont get the package that spot isnt there.
 

MuddyBoots

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OP, forgive me if you covered this. I couldn't find it if you did. I know you said that you have a BB with the factory 6 speaker system, but did you see if you have the OEM cavities for the 10 speaker system like in the higher models with the B&O? Mine is the latter but I have a buddy thinking about getting a BB and wants to know if the cavities exist so he can put in 10 speakers aftermarket like mine.
Not op but one of the ten speakers is center of the dashboard no? And if you dont get the package that spot isnt there.
That is correct. I have a Badlands without the B&O system and can confirm that the speaker panel on the dash in front of the windshield is not there. Which, honestly, is probably for the better. I've listened to the B&O system, and the center dash speaker is just kinda awkward. It creates an odd soundstage, which makes sense if you think about it. It's just one speaker up there, and most music is recorded in stereo so what is actually supposed to be played from that speaker? It just becomes a mix of both left and right channels, because the music isn't encoded for a third center channel.

It also doesn't have the speaker grills in the rear door panels for the tweeters like the B&O system. Not a huge deal though, just put a good set of coaxials back there and you'll be good to go.
 

MuddyBoots

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Hey @jlmazzola or @forty do you happen to still have the original speakers? If so would you mind just measuring the diameter of the speaker? The rim with the mounting holes. I'm considering putting in a set of 6 3/4" Rockford Fosgate coaxials (Rockford Fosgate P1675 for those that are curious) but don't know if they will fit.


I don't know if this will help, but here's the technical drawing with measurements for the speakers:

Ford Bronco Sport Installing aftermarket speakers and sub in Bronco Sport! RF P1675 Technical Drawing.PNG
 

forty

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Hey @jlmazzola or @forty do you happen to still have the original speakers? If so would you mind just measuring the diameter of the speaker? The rim with the mounting holes. I'm considering putting in a set of 6 3/4" Rockford Fosgate coaxials (Rockford Fosgate P1675 for those that are curious) but don't know if they will fit.


I don't know if this will help, but here's the technical drawing with measurements for the speakers:

Ford Bronco Sport Installing aftermarket speakers and sub in Bronco Sport! RF P1675 Technical Drawing.PNG
I do, Ill check it out today if possible. The thing is they are built into some like plastic frames as op pictured. If I remember the openings have a little bit of wiggle room. We know the alpines went in, maybe check the dimensions of that model for comparison?
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