2021 badlands electrical issues?

[Noreena]

[

Sponsored

 

[medhat]

Thank you for the reassurance so far ford corporate has been pretty good in general, but the dealers have been difficult hopefully this new dealer will be better to work with.

100%. I have to literally drive past two other Ford dealers to get to the dealer that does my service. It shouldn’t be this way and I def let Ford corporate know!

 

[Noreena]

My car died at a red light then lights started going craz

 

[wireman]

I have a 2021 bronco sport badlands and I have been having electrical issues since around 20k miles randomly the car wont fully start gets stuck with power only no engine it cycles tons of errors and wont power off. This has happened randomly for the last 1.5 years. Everytime I have had it towed to the dealer prior the tow truck driver jumps it the problems go away. I still have it towed then the dealer said things like it needed a software update or we cant reproduce the problem. After 4 different dealers looking at it they finally gave me a "extended warranty" so if the problem persists again I should be covered. Well here I am now and the vehicle is going crazy worse than ever the vehicle gets stuck in power only mode cycling tons of errors the speakers make loud popping noises, half the lights turn on/off randomly, when I try and start it the break pushes back at me hard, and it still wont turn off. I have attempted disconnecting the battery, jumping it, and everything else that worked prior with no success. Has any one else had a similar problem and found a solution or any ideas on what to do now?

Next time it happens, break out the phone and start taking video.

 

[Noreena]

My car died at a red light then lights started going craz

I don't quite understand how

I have a 2021 bronco sport badlands and I have been having electrical issues since around 20k miles randomly the car wont fully start gets stuck with power only no engine it cycles tons of errors and wont power off. This has happened randomly for the last 1.5 years. Everytime I have had it towed to the dealer prior the tow truck driver jumps it the problems go away. I still have it towed then the dealer said things like it needed a software update or we cant reproduce the problem. After 4 different dealers looking at it they finally gave me a "extended warranty" so if the problem persists again I should be covered. Well here I am now and the vehicle is going crazy worse than ever the vehicle gets stuck in power only mode cycling tons of errors the speakers make loud popping noises, half the lights turn on/off randomly, when I try and start it the break pushes back at me hard, and it still wont turn off. I have attempted disconnecting the battery, jumping it, and everything else that worked prior with no success. Has any one else had a similar problem and found a solution or any ideas on what to do now?

I have a 2021 Outerbanks. I loved this vehicle til recently. I had a screaming sound when you back up sometimes! Like when you leave the car wash. I took it in several times and they couldn't find anything. I took it before I hit 50,000 miles. I ordered the recall, they never called back. They said the screaming sound was my brakes. Not so said the people who put my new tires on. Nothing wrong with the breaks.
THEN, it also broke down at a red light, totally died. Lights started going off and on, scrolling commands or whatever. The brake was hard. Tow truck driver came and said it was shifter. He fixed something and told me to drive where ever I was going and do not put it into park til I get there. I drove the 80 miles to my dealer (I was out of town). Waited while they tested the battery, then asked what it was. They said they were doing the recall. ???HUH? Is that what was wrong? Yes, they said. Battery was fine. I picked it up the next day with the smell of something DEAD in it, drove it straight to the car wash to find the smell (did not) and it wouldn't start. Lights started going off and on, etc.
Tow truck came. It started. I told him to take it. This time, they said it was the battery (this is like the next day). They changed it, but couldn 't find the smell. That's a whole nother story!
They told me to pick it up today, then the service manager called me back and asked about a sound in the rear end. I said, yes, I've been trying to get that fixed. I'm out of warranty and they wanted to charge me $2500 . I called Ford and filed a complaint and got it down to $700, but I don't want to pay that either as I've been trying to get that fixed for 6 months. BUT, I have a feeling when I get it back, it's going to die and the lights will go off and on and scroll commands....I can't trust the car. I need to trade it in asap, I guess. I don't want a ford though. I'll update you if i ever get it back, as nothing is fixed as far as I know for sure.

 

[Poolmanz Sport Bronco]

Thanks for the input! I have attempted to disconnect the battery overnight and attempted after. I have jumped the battery, tested the battery and so has the dealer on atleast 4 different occasions. I cannot do anything with a jump drive or the systems because even though the electrical components are on they are not responsive. I am currently having it towed to the 5th dealer but luckily (sorta) this time the car will not reset with a jump so they will actually be able to see the issue happening live.

Andrew, is the battery OEM from FORD? Or was it replaced with AGM battery?
Do you know how old is the battery?
I had done the same tests on my Ranger battery and Honda battery- they tested OK, but weakly.
Install new AGM battery and all good for now. Check out the first few minutes of this video.

 

[Andrewgaj]

Andrew, is the battery OEM from FORD? Or was it replaced with AGM battery?
Do you know how old is the battery?
I had done the same tests on my Ranger battery and Honda battery- they tested OK, but weakly.
Install new AGM battery and all good for now. Check out the first few minutes of this video.

IT is still the original battery they have tested that theory in the past and said the battery is no issues. it is currently at the 5th dealer and I am hoping they will test that aswell.

 

[Andrewgaj]

I don't quite understand how

I have a 2021 Outerbanks. I loved this vehicle til recently. I had a screaming sound when you back up sometimes! Like when you leave the car wash. I took it in several times and they couldn't find anything. I took it before I hit 50,000 miles. I ordered the recall, they never called back. They said the screaming sound was my brakes. Not so said the people who put my new tires on. Nothing wrong with the breaks.
THEN, it also broke down at a red light, totally died. Lights started going off and on, scrolling commands or whatever. The brake was hard. Tow truck driver came and said it was shifter. He fixed something and told me to drive where ever I was going and do not put it into park til I get there. I drove the 80 miles to my dealer (I was out of town). Waited while they tested the battery, then asked what it was. They said they were doing the recall. ???HUH? Is that what was wrong? Yes, they said. Battery was fine. I picked it up the next day with the smell of something DEAD in it, drove it straight to the car wash to find the smell (did not) and it wouldn't start. Lights started going off and on, etc.
Tow truck came. It started. I told him to take it. This time, they said it was the battery (this is like the next day). They changed it, but couldn 't find the smell. That's a whole nother story!
They told me to pick it up today, then the service manager called me back and asked about a sound in the rear end. I said, yes, I've been trying to get that fixed. I'm out of warranty and they wanted to charge me $2500 . I called Ford and filed a complaint and got it down to $700, but I don't want to pay that either as I've been trying to get that fixed for 6 months. BUT, I have a feeling when I get it back, it's going to die and the lights will go off and on and scroll commands....I can't trust the car. I need to trade it in asap, I guess. I don't want a ford though. I'll update you if i ever get it back, as nothing is fixed as far as I know for sure.

Im sorry your going through a similar issue! I will also update you here if they figure out what's going on for me! I feel the same way this is the first time I've owned a ford and I LOVED my bronco sport, but I purchased it mainly to be able to off-road pretty far out and that just isn't a option when 50/50 It wont start.

 

[RSH]

You can go to most any chain auto parts store and they will test the battery in front of you for free, then you'll actually know it was tested and the actual result.
Like I said in my earlier post, I had to go to the dealer 3 times, the last time I said I don't want the vehicle back until its fixed. I had the randome no start problem, the dash would sometimes light up like a Cristmas tree, randomly stall out, various system error messages would pop up and the auto start stop wouldnt work, the message would be auto start stop not available battery charging. I could drive 100 miles and the message would be the same. Basically I couldnt trust it. After the battery was replaced I have not had anymore electrical issues.

Maybe you have a different issue with your Sport, I hope you get it resolved, the Badlands are bad ass when working correctly.

 

[Poolmanz Sport Bronco]

Andrew...for kicks you should try to edit your OP and start a poll.
What do you think the issue is?
1. Replace w/ AGM battery
2. Firmware bug
3. One bad lemon
4. Forgot to feed the hamsters

 

[Bucko]

I'm surprised (maybe not) that this site's Ford rep has not chimed in to offer assistance.

 

[Mark S.]

IT is still the original battery they have tested that theory in the past and said the battery is no issues. it is currently at the 5th dealer and I am hoping they will test that aswell.

There are different kinds of battery tests. The simplest is to just check the voltage. That won't tell you how the battery reacts when under load, which is what you need to know. Ask your dealer to "load test" the battery. The battery is placed under a specified load (typically half the rated CCA) for a specified time while monitoring the voltage. If the voltage drops below specification then the battery should be replaced. The load test can reveal bad and/or weak internal connections in the battery that won't show up with a simple load test.

I suspect Ford doesn't specifiy that dealerships do load tests on vehicles under warranty because if the battery fails Ford must replace the battery. If your dealer won't do a load test you can take it to most auto parts stores where they'll generally do one for free--because they want to sell you a new battery.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I'd contact a regional Ford service rep (you can request the phone number from any of the 4 dealer service reps you have been to).

Or, locate the Ford rep that is on this site (check various threads here, as they usually chime into a thread such as yours here) and "start a conversation" by selecting their avatar. They will ask for your VIN and issue(s). Don't post that info on this thread, but rather through a private conversation.

Correct! If any of you have questions or need assistance, please feel free to reach out to us privately. We are happy to help!

 

[Bucko]

Correct! If any of you have questions or need assistance, please feel free to reach out to us privately. We are happy to help!

It's too bad this site does not have a "sticky thread" area like other sites. This would be a good candidate for a thread labeled "Contact Us" with instructions on starting a conversation with you.

 

[Andrewgaj]

Andrew...for kicks you should try to edit your OP and start a poll.
What do you think the issue is?
1. Replace w/ AGM battery
2. Firmware bug
3. One bad lemon
4. Forgot to feed the hamsters

haha well the dealer just reached out and said its a bad battery. Im going to hope this finally fixes the problem we will see! If the problem does come back I will come update this thread though!

Sponsored