Auto Stop / Start not working

[Sparkster12]

Is there a gauge either programmable and have show up in the instrument panel or an aftermarket gauge that will show the voltage and or the percent of charge the battery has?

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[Dude]

Is there a gauge either programmable and have show up in the instrument panel or an aftermarket gauge that will show the voltage and or the percent of charge the battery has?

These diagnostics likely won’t be all that useful to you for what you want (see NOTE for why)… provides battery voltage but not % charged.

Diagnostics:

1. Ignition OFF.
2. Simultaneously press and hold the right side steering wheel OK button and press Ignition ON once. (Accessory mode)
NOTE: It may take up to 20 seconds for the system to enter diagnostics mode.
Scroll through the options on the cluster display (includes battery voltage, coolant temp, etc.). Will only show while keyed on in Accessory mode.
3. To exit the diagnostics, press the on/off button.

 

[Dude]

Is there a gauge either programmable and have show up in the instrument panel or an aftermarket gauge that will show the voltage and or the percent of charge the battery has?

Here is an aftermarket gauge.

https://www.scangauge.com/

scangauge: ScanGaugeIII, ScanGaugeII
1-888-433-5664, 480-656-4089
Linear Logic, LLC
2222 S. Dobson Rd Suite 800
Mesa, Arizona 85202

this link explains abit why it is difficult to obtain a 12V lead acid battery charge state: https://www.quora.com/Why-dont-car-dashboards-display-battery-charge-levels

 

[V8 Yankee]

My assumption is that one or more of the conditions is not met and is not activating like normal.

I would assume as the season turns colder and colder into winter for me, my Auto Start Stop will not turn on as much depending on temps.

I had the same issue. It seems outside temperature plays into the functionality even if your heat or AC is off. I noticed it not activating when the temp dropped below 60. Above that it seems to work fine. Personally I like the feature. It saves fuel, I understand old habits are hard to break. It took me over a month to get used to it, now I expect it to activate at every stop. Disappointing when it doesn't activate.

 

[Mark S.]

Here is an aftermarket gauge.

Another option is a power adapter with voltage readout.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-Cigarette-Delivery-Compatible/dp/B08N4WKJMT/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=NR0VC6QEZ585&keywords=lighter+adapter+voltage&qid=1674179120&sprefix=lighter+adapter+voltage,aps,123&sr=8-3

 

[Sparkster12]

Has anyone had any luck with getting this battery problem fixed?

 

[biglarrr]

After four visits to my local Ford service center, a highly trained expert who had been called in on another issue told the mechanic working on my BSOB to run the second level battery test.
At that point they finally decided that the battery was failing.
Unfortunately that is not the end of the story.
They replaced the battery with another FORD battery from their parts department.
It worked great for a month. The start/stop even worked when the temperature outside was 22F (-5.5C). Then it quit working again. And now spring weather has returned and it still doesn't work on a 50F day.
NOTE: I did buy a voltage monitor, and I can see that the battery is charging at 14.8 when I'm driving, dropping slightly to 14.6 when stopped for a red light. Within minutes after I shut it off, the voltage drops to 11.9-12.1.
I'm not going to even waste another minute with Ford Service.
I'm going to buy a battery from a reputable seller, and hope that solves the problem.

 

[RSH]

When my Badlands was having battery issues including the auto start stop not working, I had the battery replaced under warranty. So far so good, time will tell.

 

[Mark S.]

Within minutes after I shut it off, the voltage drops to 11.9-12.1.

A fully charged lead-acid battery should indicate around 12.5 VDC. A sealed AGM or Gel battery should indicate around 12.8 VDC. I think your dealership gave you another lead-acid battery from the same bad batch that went to the production line.

 

[mikeyncc]

Same problem today. I've had my BS for 2 months. I turned auto stop/start off on the dash, restarted the vehicle and all is well....

 

[biglarrr]

A fully charged lead-acid battery should indicate around 12.5 VDC. A sealed AGM or Gel battery should indicate around 12.8 VDC. I think your dealership gave you another lead-acid battery from the same bad batch that went to the production line.

I agree 1000%. Four visits during which I got every excuse they could make up, and even after I contacted Corporate Customer Support, they still "couldn't" replace the battery because it checked out on the first stage (whatever that is). It was only luck that a specialist had been brought in to work on a different issue and told the mechanic to run the second stage test, that they agreed that the battery was failing, and they could replace it.
I'm sure they'll call it a success when I go buy a good battery.
Sadly - I'll call it a success too, and then I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of it when they declare the drain tube band-aid fix for the cracked fuel injector - repaired.

 

[Mark S.]

I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of it when they declare the drain tube band-aid fix for the cracked fuel injector - repaired.

The recall isn't to repair anything; it's prophylactic in case you experience a fuel leak such as a cracked fuel injector. The software mod and drain tube should've been part of the original design, because a fuel leak is always a possibility, no matter how remote, and the basic engine design should include a means to shunt raw fuel and fumes away from the engine compartment.

 

[RSH]

After four visits to my local Ford service center, a highly trained expert who had been called in on another issue told the mechanic working on my BSOB to run the second level battery test.
At that point they finally decided that the battery was failing.
Unfortunately that is not the end of the story.
They replaced the battery with another FORD battery from their parts department.
It worked great for a month. The start/stop even worked when the temperature outside was 22F (-5.5C). Then it quit working again. And now spring weather has returned and it still doesn't work on a 50F day.
NOTE: I did buy a voltage monitor, and I can see that the battery is charging at 14.8 when I'm driving, dropping slightly to 14.6 when stopped for a red light. Within minutes after I shut it off, the voltage drops to 11.9-12.1.
I'm not going to even waste another minute with Ford Service.
I'm going to buy a battery from a reputable seller, and hope that solves the problem.

When the dealer replaced my battery they installed a Motorcraft AGM battery, it's been 5 months and everything works as it should.
Obviously going back and forth with the dealer sucks. Are there any other dealers in your area, Ford needs to make your BS right, if that means replacing the battery again, that's what the warranty is for.

 

[KingofMandalore]

Been having the same issues described above for countless months, every time I come to a stop the status on the info display says "Engine on due to vehicle charging." I was thinking I'm alone in this.

If I charge it with a 2 amp trickle charger, it finally decides to work....however only for about a day. It will shut the engine off maybe 7 times max, then it's back to square one. My dealer is smaller and not as knowledgeable, but this is annoying and something I'd like to resolve. Do I just have to go through the back and forth to get a new battery under warranty?

 

[Mark S.]

Ask your service department to perform a load test, not a voltage check. A load test applies an electrical load equal to a percentage of the maximum cranking amperage for around 15 seconds, during which the battery voltage should not drop below approx 9.6 amps. Following a load test, the battery should retain enough voltage to power all vehicle systems. If voltage drops below 9.6 during the test, and/or it doesn't retain enough juice to power vehicle systems after, then it needs to be replaced.

Here's more info about load testing.

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