Auto Stop / Start not working

magicbus

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Probably 10 at least every other day- Maybe 50-60 week
When I do my typical driving it’s 2-3 miles a day that includes 3 or 4 starts. That causes the issues. During the summer when I drive 6 miles in the morning to work and 6 in the afternoon coming home 3 days a week, all is good. Go figure…
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Osco

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My round trips four days a week are about 35 miles with random miles now and then. The battery craps when I skip a single day and drive my old escape to keep it running.
About half the time I can remote start after a day of not using my BS.
If I let it sit for two days, well I can
Fagetaboutit doing a remote start the next cold morning.
I may need a dash solar cell.
Can I leave that plugged in 24/7 ?
If it’s regulated ??
 

magicbus

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Youza! That does sound like a bad battery or charging circuit issue.
 

Osco

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Youza! That does sound like a bad battery or charging circuit issue.
Yeah I’ve metered the battery voltage.
Right after a 35 mile outing and after the head light cooling fans stop I read 12.47 VDC
The next day after I open the door and hood and wait for the headlight fans to stop then give it fifteen minutes recovery time I get 12.2 VDC.
On the second day of non use, again after the head light fans stop wasting my battery I get 12.1 VDC and the dreaded conserve power message.
Hey FORD !
Head light cooling fans come on when I so much as touch my BS ?
Really ?
A software rewrite is needed as they should only come on when the engine has been running and/or the HEADLIGHTS have been turned on.
NOT when I walk out to my BS and unlock and open a door because I left something in the back seat.
On my day off,
When I’m not using my BS,
That’s BS !
 

Osco

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Even with a top tier AGM battery I’m going to need a five watt diod controlled solar cell on the dash hooked up 24/7.
Prolly have to wire direct to the battery circuit as my 12volt outlet shuts off after a few minutes of engine off time.
That’s pretty sad that at 23 months my battery is showing signs of an early death due to bad software design.
I bought a base model because I did not need bells and whistles.
Aw I still like my buggy bunches but it is overly and unnecessarily complex.
It does not sit much and often is a daily driver but if it sits a day or two for sure I cannot remote start on these soon to be freezing mornings.
When I start it from inside my warm house I can sip hot chocolate and after 15 minutes when it shuts down de-icing the windows is easier and if it’s really nasty a second fifteen minutes gives me a warm cabin and melting ice on the windows.
 
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RiotfunK

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AS/S adds to battery failures and shortened life. Constantly cranking isn’t a good thing. The decrease in battery life is also caused by the car always being is standby mode for remote start. This happens in most newer vehicles. Plus Ford is using regular batteries and not an AGM in the BS.
 

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I called My Ford dealer today. I’m taking it in Monday at noon.
They told me to trickle charge it at 2 amps and top it off before I get there for a complete system test.
It’s what they would do to test it but if I do it I can get out faster.
They said they’d have me out in an hour. And they stock no AGM’s so all they can do is give me a new lead acid.
And they know I’ll need a new battery.
My Auto start/stop is also NOT working along with remote start in the mornings so it’s not my home network or Wi-Fi.
He said my problem is common and agreed with me that an AGM would be best.
FORD ! You listening ?
You just might need to spec better batteries in all your Bronco Sports and your AWD Maverick’s.
I’ll update this Monday.
 

Ford Motor Company

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I called My Ford dealer today. I’m taking it in Monday at noon.
They told me to trickle charge it at 2 amps and top it off before I get there for a complete system test.
It’s what they would do to test it but if I do it I can get out faster.
They said they’d have me out in an hour. And they stock no AGM’s so all they can do is give me a new lead acid.
And they know I’ll need a new battery.
My Auto start/stop is also NOT working along with remote start in the mornings so it’s not my home network or Wi-Fi.
He said my problem is common and agreed with me that an AGM would be best.
FORD ! You listening ?
You just might need to spec better batteries in all your Bronco Sports and your AWD Maverick’s.
I’ll update this Monday.
Hello! Could you privately message us with your VIN and the name and location of your Ford dealer so I can look into this auto start-stop concern for you? Thank you!
 

Osco

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Ok Ford,
The way it went down.
I put a 2 amp charger on and peaked my 23 month old factory battery per the Ford service writer. Saves them doing it and that would get me out faster.
They took it in the back today at 12:30, gave it back to me a half hour later saying the battery is 99% and no codes, your fine.
I said but hey I need a new battery because it told me I had reduced voltage, shutting down remote start and auto stop/start.
I said I was hoping you could tell me an AGM would be best.
Oh you have one now. All new Fords come with them. I opened the hood,
Pointed at the big bold white letters on the top of the battery saying, “LEAD ACID battery”.
He’s trying to get me to give up and leave,he is judging me a stupid old man not someone who’s been dealing with cars while he was still in diapers and long before. Again saying they were not going to give me a battery and admitted they have no idea why things were not working. Telling me there were no codes thrown.
Next I made him follow me to parts.
Guy says they do not come with AGM’s, they are expensive.
Service guy looks at me and says, ‘I’m sorry’
I replied, do I need to see the service manager or should I call Ford Corporate ?
Oh he’s tied up out back and he walks away.
I’m looking at the service manager in his office diligently taking care of one problem after another.
Hey it’s a Monday right !
I told him the whole story and say your guys showed no codes and called my failing battery that can pass a load test a 99% battery.
But after sitting two days it does x x and drops a bunch of voltage..
He stops me mid sentence and says with a well trained defeated look on his face, “Ok ok I will buy you a new battery !”””
He loudly stressed “I” will do this for you !
LoL
I handed him my keys and managed not to crack up laughing.
Got my 23 month old under Factory Warranty Bronco Sport battery Replaced with a brand spanking new one, a lead acid but that’s ok 👍
I can be persistent but I must admit I did my best to go easy on that service manager, He WAS having a very bad Monday.
If u had a company you would want this man working your customers,
Err as you were,
Working WITH your customers, :,P
All fun aside the manager was great. I’d give him a raise !
But as for the service writer kid.
He was telling me all kinds of bullshit that I think he was making up as he went along.
He needs a little bit of training.
I’ve been dealing with Ford dealers for 30 years and have never ever seen anything but the best trained best and smartest staff bar none.
FWIW my auto stop/start started working at the stop sign leaving the dealers property.
 
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biglarrr

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My 2022 OBX is 8 months old, 4200 miles. No issues until 2 weeks ago. Auto stop/start stopped working.
When I stop with my foot on the brake, the grey A on the dash lights up.
Car is warmed up, no air, no heat, nothing on. Outside temp @ 65F.
Information message for S/S shows " Engine on, working normally," or something like that. Battery cables tight. Battery voltage 12.49.
Anyone have any idea why this stopped working? Am I missing something ?.
Dealer seems uninterested in looking at it because the " Check engine " light is not on.
Foghorn
My assumption is that one or more of the conditions is not met and is not activating like normal.

Ford Bronco Sport Auto Stop / Start  not working Screenshot_20221024_181547


I would assume as the season turns colder and colder into winter for me, my Auto Start Stop will not turn on as much depending on temps.
I checked all of those, and suspected right away that it was the battery.
One mechanic told me - When it gets cold it doesn't work.
I called "Bu##$##T" I took ownership in February which is typically one of the worst winter months, and some times it took a few minutes more for it to start working but it worked.
I confronted the Service manager at my local Ford dealer, and he said it could be a sensor, or it might need a software update.
He told me to come back in and the next mechanic said my battery was a 50% and he just charged it and it started working. Curiously it didnt seem to raise any red flags for him, so I'm currently monitoring my voltage after car has set overnight, and after I've driven it.After two days I'm convinced that I either got a bad battery, or there's some wiring issue or electronic issue that slowly is draining the battery. This morning my battery read 11.8 volts, and after driving about twenty miles with a few stops to drop off, or pick up shopping items, the battery only came up to 12.4 volts.
 


Osco

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Sad but true,,,
Stupidity, Laziness and Ignorance is Killing this Nation and per JFK AND Former President Ronald Regan we are past the point of no return.
 

kennyroo

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I wish I had that problem as it would save me from turning it off all the time :cwl:.
absolutely , I’m willing to pay 100 dollars to buy that device to remove it altogether 😆
 

PonyDriver43

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absolutely , I’m willing to pay 100 dollars to buy that device to remove it altogether 😆
im not associated in any way with this product.
My daughter in law has one on her full size Bronco OB & it works great. Basically it just “remembers” the setting it was on when vehicle was shut down, and that’s what you get when it restart.
https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/ford-bronco-auto-start-stop-disable/products/2021-ford-bronco-sport-autostop-eliminator.
 

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Those are the numbers I was looking for.
My Stop/Start quit working and I brought it in for service and first mechanic said "it doesn't work when it's cold". The lowest temp we'd had up that point was 40 degrees, plus I drove it through February and March when it does get truly cold, and it always worked as soon as the engine warmed up a bit.
I complained to manager, and he said we've seen a few batteries with bad sensors (?), and one update that was done disabled Start/Stop, but there was a second one to correct that.
He told me to come in any time the following week and tell them "Chip sent you".
The mechanic this time claimed that the battery was at 50%, and he charged it and everything was working fine.
WTF - if the battery was at 50% I probably couldn't start the car. Also if I was a mechanic, that would have sent up red flags, and I'd have done some troubleshooting to see if something was draining the battery when the car was shut off.
I started a spread sheet with resting overnight voltage, and immediately after turning engine off after a drive.
So far after only three days. resting 11.84, atshutoff 12.2, Resting 11.9, atshutoff 12.4, resting 11.8, atshutoff 12.51
What's your thoughts on those numbers.
I'm not particularly happy with them.
My old battery. resting VDC after 2 days sitting was 12.1 after one day 12.4 same day after a 35 mile drive 12.4. No sub system working.
My new battery after a 2 day sit is 12.9 and after. Drive 13.1.
BOTH auto stop/start AND remote start have been back online from then on.
The thing I noticed that indicated a bad battery was :
My 23 month old battery peaked on a 2 amp charge at 12.6. That took 2.5 hours from 12.1.
My new battery peaked at 13.67 VDC after a five hour 2 amp peak starting at 12.9 off the shelf sitting months by the date code and it was only an 11 mile drive home.
My OLD battery showed 99% at Ford, no codes. So my Ford dealer was wrong or had improper diagnostic methods.
Again my old battery would not hold under the constant drain while the vehicle was not in use.
I even got the warning on the dash.
It was ABSOLUTELY the battery.
 

biglarrr

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My old battery. resting VDC after 2 days sitting was 12.1 after one day 12.4 same day after a 35 mile drive 12.4. No sub system working.
My new battery after a 2 day sit is 12.9 and after. Drive 13.1.
BOTH auto stop/start AND remote start have been back online from then on.
The thing I noticed that indicated a bad battery was :
My 23 month old battery peaked on a 2 amp charge at 12.6. That took 2.5 hours from 12.1.
My new battery peaked at 13.67 VDC after a five hour 2 amp peak starting at 12.9 off the shelf sitting months by the date code and it was only an 11 mile drive home.
My OLD battery showed 99% at Ford, no codes. So my Ford dealer was wrong or had improper diagnostic methods.
Again my old battery would not hold under the constant drain while the vehicle was not in use.
I even got the warning on the dash.
It was ABSOLUTELY the battery.
Soooooooooo - since you have replaced your battery, You will know the answer to this dumb question.
Can I replace the battery without Ford Service assistance?
Every time I've been into their service department, they claim they've had to reinitialize when they replaced parts. Specifically - the motors on my Moonroof. Notation on workorder - "Replaced motors and after being reinitialized, window is now working as expected"
I've change multiple batteries in my lifetime, but not so sure about this one.
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