I'm glad there is a cheaper option now, I got the Redline ones, pretty much same installation. It opens pretty smoothly and no problems closing it. The car definitely feels more premium with the struts.
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Wow Im jealous, you have an engine cover and the hood insulatorHere's the link to the Sukemichi struts; thanks John (slowpoke17)!!
They appear to be decent quality, but only time will tell. They came with the wrong instructions, but it wouldn't have really mattered because it was such a bad quality photocopy they wouldn't have helped anyway. Luckily, it's a really simple product, so after a bit of noodling even I was able to figure out how to attach them. Here's what I did:
NOTE: Don't tighten anything more than finger tight until ALL the mounting assemblies are in place.
The mounts that attach to the hood are self explanatory. The mounts that attach to the bottom of the strut are two-piece assemblies. The photo below left shows the part of the assembly with the ball you snap the strut to, and the mounting position on the fender support for the left (driver's) side. The photo below right shows the two bolts and the threaded plate they screw into. Once tightened, the bolts pinch the fender support between the top and bottom pieces. Nifty!
Recommendation: Don't try to hold the two pieces in position while threading a bolt into the bottom plate. It would be very easy to drop something, and who knows where it might end up. Instead, thread the bolt that goes in the front hole into the bottom plate a few turns, THEN place the assembly in position. The front bolt will assist in holding the assembly together while you thread back bolt into the bottom plate. The two photos below show the assembly and mounting position for the passenger (right) side
After all the assemblies are in place with the bolts finger tight get your tools. You'll need a 13mm wrench or deep-well socket for the top brackets, and an 8mm wrench or socket for the bottom assemblies. The instructions do not list torque specs for the bolts, so use your judgement. Be careful with the bolts on the top assembly. You'll see when you install them there isn't much metal for them to brace against.
CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts holding the top mounts too tight. The sheet metal the brace against is thin and you will pull the back plates right through the holes.
The bolts on the bottom assemblies should be quite snug. You don't need blue torque (that's where you crank until you're blue in the face), but they should be a good deal tighter than the bolts on the top assemblies.
Once you've tightened all the bolts it's just a matter of snapping the struts in place. It should be readily apparent which end attaches where.
One final recommendation: You can no longer use gravity to close and latch the hood, you must push it closed. The hood is made from relatively thin sheet metal which will easily dent if you push on it. Keep your hand flat and push on the bend where it will be hardest to dent it.
And that's it. Here's how good they work:
How much were they on Prime day?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SLHKZW3/?coliid=I1O87L41JZTFIL&colid=1V5IZ8PTKNMKG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
They are on Prime day deal today on Amazon.
I think I only paid aboutHow much were they on Prime day?
I paid $45 Prime.How much were they on Prime day?
I did the same thing. Got a nice cut. Then I realized that my 2011 WRX had rubber on the metal edges in the engine bay. Never realized why until then.Nice write up Mark. The only thing I would add is be careful along the fender edges. That metal is fairly thin and sharp. I was attaching the bottom pin and my hand slipped toward the fender edge, cut my thumb on the side like a knife. After clean up in aisle 5, I went back and added some U shaped rubber edging I had all along the exposed edges. It's friction fit so no adhesive needed.
Go with Redline. I originally ordered the cheaper version and ended up returning them. Couldn't get the struts to snap in place and when I used additional force the connectors bent and broke. Went with Redline and they snapped right on. Very happy with how well they work.The cheap version also came with zero installation instructions. Cheap is cheap. You get what you pay for.thanks for all the feedback. I think I'll place my order today. Just curious though if anyone has tried the other brands besides Redline. I noticed Amazon has at least 2 other companies selling them at $60 versus $100. Not much to screw up so I may go with the lower priced version.
Like Barry, I didn't get suitable instructions with the Sukemichi brand available on Amazon, but neither did I have the installation problems. Mine snapped right in place with no issues. They've been on the car for several months now with no issues.I originally ordered the cheaper version and ended up returning them. Couldn't get the struts to snap in place and when I used additional force the connectors bent and broke. The cheap version also came with zero installation instructions.
I actually used the YouTube for Redline. Concept was the same but I couldn't get the springs to grab the ball. Glad it worked for you. There's another one that just came from a company aptly called Rival with a price point right in the middle.Like Barry, I didn't get suitable instructions with the Sukemichi brand available on Amazon, but neither did I have the installation problems. Mine snapped right in place with no issues. They've been on the car for several months now with no issues.
The lack of instructions could be an issue for some, but I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and these are pretty simple devices. If you decide to go with the Sukemichi brand there are several posts here on the site on how to install them. Here's mine.
Still two-stage release with the Sukemichi struts. You might want to check into your installation a bit more carefully. The two-stage release is a safety feature that's been present on hood latches for a few decades now. It's meant to prevent the hood from flying open and smashing your windshield should the hood latch open while driving. It might open for any number of reasons, including not being fully closed and latched the last time the hood was opened. This (the hood not being fully latched) seems like a real possibility if you have hood struts actively working against you as you try to close the hood.The last note I have is, the two stage hood release seems to only be one stage now after installing the Hood Struts, the hood is closed properly and behaves properly otherwise, its just something to note after install and if it actually is an issue ill update this later.
No problem with the Redline doing two stage release. Mark S makes a good recommendation. Be careful about hood not fully latched.Still two-stage release with the Sukemichi struts. You might want to check into your installation a bit more carefully. The two-stage release is a safety feature that's been present on hood latches for a few decades now. It's meant to prevent the hood from flying open and smashing your windshield should the hood latch open while driving. It might open for any number of reasons, including not being fully closed and latched the last time the hood was opened. This (the hood not being fully latched) seems like a real possibility if you have hood struts actively working against you as you try to close the hood.
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