Hood strut reviews from those that have them

[slowpoke17]

I'm considering adding the hood struts to replace the rod. I've seen a couple of different brands with different mounting techniques. One was Kingsboomy and the other was Redline. Redline attaches to the top of the hood bracket and it looks like the Kingsboomy is closer to the fender. I believe I read a thread awhile back before I was even thinking about doing this and the Redline had slipped out from the hood as it used a round fitting? I know the Redline is about $25 more, is there a reason why and is it worth it? Also can you tell me if it is harder to close the hood with these in place? As it is now I need to drop the hood from about 12" to get it to latch the first time. I've tried closing it and pushing down for the final latch but I don't want to force it and dent the aluminum.

Went back and noticed the Kingsboomy are only for the Bronco, not BS. So it looks like it will be Redline unless there are any other brands I didn't see. Still interested in what you have to say about them and any issues.

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[Geelloo90042]

No issues so far after maybe 6 months. Just follow the directions in the order of installing the struts. I did mess up the connecting joint and had to re-order that part. I don't use extra force to close it, I just put my hood down to the latch, and then push down on it. Not sure with the long term affect with that. I like it because I just release the hood, and lift up with minimal effort.

 

[GT1]

I'm considering adding the hood struts to replace the rod. I've seen a couple of different brands with different mounting techniques. One was Kingsboomy and the other was Redline. Redline attaches to the top of the hood bracket and it looks like the Kingsboomy is closer to the fender. I believe I read a thread awhile back before I was even thinking about doing this and the Redline had slipped out from the hood as it used a round fitting? I know the Redline is about $25 more, is there a reason why and is it worth it? Also can you tell me if it is harder to close the hood with these in place? As it is now I need to drop the hood from about 12" to get it to latch the first time. I've tried closing it and pushing down for the final latch but I don't want to force it and dent the aluminum.

Went back and noticed the Kingsboomy are only for the Bronco, not BS. So it looks like it will be Redline unless there are any other brands I didn't see. Still interested in what you have to say about them and any issues.

I installed Redline . Just be sure you do not rotate the fitting when tightening it - it is an "oval". On my car the hood never did close completely when "dropped". Always had to push it down to latch - same now with redline. On forum only thing I have seen is one person reported the hood mounting hole on one side was a larger size - that is easy to check ahead of time.

 

[Jess1]

Very easy install (read directions, tho), and you should check the washer fluid line. Had to loosen it to give a bit more play, as the hood now opens a good 5+ inches higher. I also added a bit of loktite to the various bolts...

 

[slowpoke17]

thanks for all the feedback. I think I'll place my order today. Just curious though if anyone has tried the other brands besides Redline. I noticed Amazon has at least 2 other companies selling them at $60 versus $100. Not much to screw up so I may go with the lower priced version.

 

[Meanderthal]

The other benefit is that they may reduce/eliminate the hood shake that some people are seeing. Nobody has 100% confirmed this yet but there is some anecdotal evidence so far.

 

[Deleted member 6599]

 

[Jess1]

Order the Redline. The others are for the big B, even though there's "Bronco Sport" in the description. I know, I ordered one...ah well. As an aside, once installed, close hood and check clearance all around. My hood stops were nowhere near the same level. Hood now has same gap front to rear, and no shake or flutter up to, and slightly over some Texas speed limits

 

[slowpoke17]

Order the Redline. The others are for the big B, even though there's "Bronco Sport" in the description. I know, I ordered one...ah well. As an aside, once installed, close hood and check clearance all around. My hood stops were nowhere near the same level. Hood now has same gap front to rear, and no shake or flutter up to, and slightly over some Texas speed limits

Good to know, thank you.

 

[slowpoke17]

I ended up going with the lesser priced model on Amazon. If they didn't fit there is no return fee with Prime. Turns out they fit very well, had the same mounting brackets and saved me $40. Only difference I could see is they don't have any decals on them.

 

[M3H7363]

I ended up going with the lesser priced model on Amazon. If they didn't fit there is no return fee with Prime. Turns out they fit very well, had the same mounting brackets and saved me $40. Only difference I could see is they don't have any decals on them.

Link?

 

[Meanderthal]

I ended up going with the lesser priced model on Amazon. If they didn't fit there is no return fee with Prime. Turns out they fit very well, had the same mounting brackets and saved me $40. Only difference I could see is they don't have any decals on them.

The difference between the 2 is the less expensive one is painted steel while the more expensive one is stainless steel. I really don't think that stainless steel is worth it unless you live pretty close to the ocean. I can't say that I have ever seen a hood/hatch strut with rust that wasn't already dead from age.

 

[slowpoke17]

Link?

I tried copying the link but it kept going to my account. Here's the heading for the product:
Sukemichi Front Hood Gas Shocks Strut Lift Supports Spring Dampers for Ford Bronco Sport Accessories 2021+, 2 Pack
Brand: sukemichi









$59.99$59.99 ($30.00$30.00 / Item)






& FREE Returns

 

[slowpoke17]

The difference between the 2 is the less expensive one is painted steel while the more expensive one is stainless steel. I really don't think that stainless steel is worth it unless you live pretty close to the ocean. I can't say that I have ever seen a hood/hatch strut with rust that wasn't already dead from age.

I believe the stainless redline were $140 for the pair. They also sell a regular set for $100. I don't live near the ocean so no issues.

 

[Mark S.]

Here's the link to the Sukemichi struts; thanks John (slowpoke17)!!

They appear to be decent quality, but only time will tell. They came with the wrong instructions, but it wouldn't have really mattered because it was such a bad quality photocopy they wouldn't have helped anyway. Luckily, it's a really simple product, so after a bit of noodling even I was able to figure out how to attach them. Here's what I did:

NOTE: Don't tighten anything more than finger tight until ALL the mounting assemblies are in place.

The mounts that attach to the hood are self explanatory. The mounts that attach to the bottom of the strut are two-piece assemblies. The photo below left shows the part of the assembly with the ball you snap the strut to, and the mounting position on the fender support for the left (driver's) side. The photo below right shows the two bolts and the threaded plate they screw into. Once tightened, the bolts pinch the fender support between the top and bottom pieces. Nifty!

​

Recommendation: Don't try to hold the two pieces in position while threading a bolt into the bottom plate. It would be very easy to drop something, and who knows where it might end up. Instead, thread the bolt that goes in the front hole into the bottom plate a few turns, THEN place the assembly in position. The front bolt will assist in holding the assembly together while you thread back bolt into the bottom plate. The two photos below show the assembly and mounting position for the passenger (right) side

​

After all the assemblies are in place with the bolts finger tight get your tools. You'll need a 13mm wrench or deep-well socket for the top brackets, and an 8mm wrench or socket for the bottom assemblies. The instructions do not list torque specs for the bolts, so use your judgement. Be careful with the bolts on the top assembly. You'll see when you install them there isn't much metal for them to brace against.

CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts holding the top mounts too tight. The sheet metal they brace against is thin and you will pull the back plates right through the holes.

The bolts on the bottom assemblies should be quite snug. You don't need blue torque (that's where you crank until you're blue in the face), but they should be a good deal tighter than the bolts on the top assemblies.

Once you've tightened all the bolts it's just a matter of snapping the struts in place. It should be readily apparent which end attaches where.

One final recommendation: You can no longer use gravity to close and latch the hood, you must push it closed. The hood is made from relatively thin sheet metal which will easily dent if you push on it. Keep your hand flat and push on the bend where it will be hardest to dent it.

And that's it. Here's how good they work:

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