Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage

Glamdring70

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I finally did the 1st change today. The Bronco just clicked over 5,000 miles. The Oil Life System claimed there was 35% remaining. I will probably follow it for subsequent changes, but I wanted to do the first one at 5K because of the break in.

I didn't lift the vehicle. I was able to perform the whole service parked on a level floor. Dropping the plate was no issue. I did like I said I would up-thread, and used the jack to hold it. I didn't jack the car this way, just to hold it up while removing the bolts. I lowered the jack and the plate balanced and dropped no issue. It's actually not that heavy, but this took the awkwardness out of it. The 13mm... oh boy they are hard to turn with that Loctite. I can't imagine all that is required to stay put unless you planned to attach the plate and never remove it again. The T30 Torx seem way too beefy. Don't overtighten them, despite the massive size. They just hold the plastic lip down. If you don't have a Torx set, don't buy it for this alone, this job doesn't require it. Even a 1/4" T30 bit or socket will get this done.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_094245540
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_094310759


Despite the photos posted before, I was a bit dismayed by the filter location. In fact it does overhang the plastic lip of the shroud by roughly 1/2. Just drop a rag and accept that oil from the filter will hit it. If you pull the drain bolt and let it go, it also feels like the initial flow would catch that lip. I held it up just in case. Straight on from underneath, plastic at the top:
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_095225264

This location also made the strap wrench almost useless. I took almost 15 minutes of awkward attempts to get it to move the filter. And brother, was that factory filter on tight. Maybe they are just testing the filter port to see if it shears off, because no one is ever again going to tighten a filter that much. I put filters on 1 turn after contact and that is tight. I will get a cap wrench to break it, but the vertical filter means as soon as the seal releases, oil is coming down. I wear a latex glove for both grip and clean up.
In my opinion, the filter should have gone behind the pan, and the drain could also face backwards. Would have avoided the lip for both, made removal easier and probably would not change the machining design that much.

You can't go by "look" really, but in my amateur opinion, that oil is used up based on look:
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_100011376


Putting a pour spigot on oil bottles is a PITA so I just use a funnel. If you can't tell from the rest of my comments, I am a neat freak when wrenching. I don't want any stray oil on the engine to build up crud, or worse, spots on the precious engine cover!! This lets you pour and walk away if you're intent on getting every drop of liquid gold out.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_112102095


I've used Mobil 1 products for decades with great success whether due to the oil or just fortune, so either way, I plan to keep doing that. The Ford 910S equivalent I found was the M1-102A. Side-by-side they look like they came out of the same press brake.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_111808334


I am sure everything is fine, but the one thing I did was re-attach the plate before filling. I guess I wanted the plate out of the way. Then I realized it makes checking for a leak, um, challenging. So maybe leave the plate off until the end... I reversed and used the jack to raise the plate nearly to position and then put in a bolt to locate the position. With the bolts hand tight, I tool the jack out and wrenched them down. Protip; put everything in loose before tightening the first one.

If you start the vehicle, use the steering wheel control to select Menu>(down x3) Settings>Oil Life> Hold OK on percentage screen. Way easier than my last one which involved pressing the gas pedal and turning the ignition key in the right sequence. I put in 5qt. of oil. The spec calls for 5.5 even though the stick shows full top. The stick is a little weird too with the read being right at the end. My intent is to take a short ride and let the filter and gallery fill and then check it again and most vehicles usually drop a small amount.
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Mark S.

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The Ford 910S equivalent I found was the M1-102A. Side-by-side they look like they came out of the same press brake.
Great report; thanks!

FYI, my brother worked as a machinist for a company that made oil filters (among other things). He told me many brands do indeed come off the same production line, they just get different paint at the end.
 

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@Glamdring70 Nice write up, very useful. Any thoughts on replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto valve?
 

Glamdring70

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@Glamdring70 Nice write up, very useful. Any thoughts on replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto valve?
Yeah. I really wanted to do that. But if you shop the Fumoto site, they don't have a version that directly fits the Bronco Sport. You either need that intermediate piece to change the direction or they need another design. That sort of turned me off and I never bought into the device. The skid plate was way less hassle than I pictured so I am also not thinking about a relocate kit either. I'm looking ahead to how the PTU fluid can be changed easier. Hopefully someone designs a thread-in filler/riser for it with a cap. Then you can use a line to pump out and just fill normally. I think that will end up being a good frequent service item no matter how much 4W lock someone uses. If you watch some videos, it is a pain to drain and fill.

FYI, my brother worked as a machinist for a company that made oil filters (among other things). He told me many brands do indeed come off the same production line, they just get different paint at the end.
Yeah, I'm sure they do. Same thing for all those extruded cereals. Different tip and different box, same slurry. I don't think the internals would be drastically different so as much as I like M1 products, that's a pretty good FoMoCo endorsement!
 

VirtualJMills

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The 13mm... oh boy they are hard to turn with that Loctite. I can't imagine all that is required to stay put unless you planned to attach the plate and never remove it again.
Depends on the specific Loctite (or other threadlocker) formulation used. Common three are purple (low), blue (medium), and red (high). Other specialty formulations exist.

They vary from "gentle retention with thread-gap fill" to "good luck, never gonna get this fastener loose without a breaker-bar".
 


Freddy Turbina

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Not sure if there's much information for BL. I finally did my first oil change at 7000 miles. The bash plate was a pain to remove because of its heft and needed a socket wrench to remove. I also need to remove 4 torx screws that attached the bash plate to the lower edge of the front bumper. I think the oil filter itself needed a 72 mm Oil Filter Cup-Style Wrench to remove. I didn't have the exact size (I had a 74 mm cup style wrench) but managed by putting a rubber glove to tighten the grip.

I was worried at first that oil from the oil filter might drip onto the plastic bumper, but it didn't (see photo below). I saw a video in youtube that showed the oil drain plug pointing to the back of the car. For the BL, it points to the front.

Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20211011_153717596_HDR


Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20211011_153738609_HDR
Jumping on this since this is the only place I have seen a picture from this angle on the forum—in the second photo on the black painted edges on the right near the three bolts, do you have rust? I can’t tell if it is rust or if it is red colored dirt. I ask because I was looking under my BB fabric engine cover last week and saw that those edges were a bit rusty and was not sure if I should be concerned or not… might try to just learn how to rust proof that area, since NE and beach driving means I am basically covered in salt… thanks!

fred.
 

NEFKANO

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I finally did the 1st change today. The Bronco just clicked over 5,000 miles. The Oil Life System claimed there was 35% remaining. I will probably follow it for subsequent changes, but I wanted to do the first one at 5K because of the break in.

I didn't lift the vehicle. I was able to perform the whole service parked on a level floor. Dropping the plate was no issue. I did like I said I would up-thread, and used the jack to hold it. I didn't jack the car this way, just to hold it up while removing the bolts. I lowered the jack and the plate balanced and dropped no issue. It's actually not that heavy, but this took the awkwardness out of it. The 13mm... oh boy they are hard to turn with that Loctite. I can't imagine all that is required to stay put unless you planned to attach the plate and never remove it again. The T30 Torx seem way too beefy. Don't overtighten them, despite the massive size. They just hold the plastic lip down. If you don't have a Torx set, don't buy it for this alone, this job doesn't require it. Even a 1/4" T30 bit or socket will get this done.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_094245540
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_094310759


Despite the photos posted before, I was a bit dismayed by the filter location. In fact it does overhang the plastic lip of the shroud by roughly 1/2. Just drop a rag and accept that oil from the filter will hit it. If you pull the drain bolt and let it go, it also feels like the initial flow would catch that lip. I held it up just in case. Straight on from underneath, plastic at the top:
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_095225264

This location also made the strap wrench almost useless. I took almost 15 minutes of awkward attempts to get it to move the filter. And brother, was that factory filter on tight. Maybe they are just testing the filter port to see if it shears off, because no one is ever again going to tighten a filter that much. I put filters on 1 turn after contact and that is tight. I will get a cap wrench to break it, but the vertical filter means as soon as the seal releases, oil is coming down. I wear a latex glove for both grip and clean up.
In my opinion, the filter should have gone behind the pan, and the drain could also face backwards. Would have avoided the lip for both, made removal easier and probably would not change the machining design that much.

You can't go by "look" really, but in my amateur opinion, that oil is used up based on look:
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_100011376


Putting a pour spigot on oil bottles is a PITA so I just use a funnel. If you can't tell from the rest of my comments, I am a neat freak when wrenching. I don't want any stray oil on the engine to build up crud, or worse, spots on the precious engine cover!! This lets you pour and walk away if you're intent on getting every drop of liquid gold out.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_112102095


I've used Mobil 1 products for decades with great success whether due to the oil or just fortune, so either way, I plan to keep doing that. The Ford 910S equivalent I found was the M1-102A. Side-by-side they look like they came out of the same press brake.
Ford Bronco Sport Oil change (BL) with pics of undercarriage IMG_20220113_111808334


I am sure everything is fine, but the one thing I did was re-attach the plate before filling. I guess I wanted the plate out of the way. Then I realized it makes checking for a leak, um, challenging. So maybe leave the plate off until the end... I reversed and used the jack to raise the plate nearly to position and then put in a bolt to locate the position. With the bolts hand tight, I tool the jack out and wrenched them down. Protip; put everything in loose before tightening the first one.

If you start the vehicle, use the steering wheel control to select Menu>(down x3) Settings>Oil Life> Hold OK on percentage screen. Way easier than my last one which involved pressing the gas pedal and turning the ignition key in the right sequence. I put in 5qt. of oil. The spec calls for 5.5 even though the stick shows full top. The stick is a little weird too with the read being right at the end. My intent is to take a short ride and let the filter and gallery fill and then check it again and most vehicles usually drop a small amount.
Just saw this... sorry...just making sure no issues crawling under there on level surface... to access the filter and proceed with an oil change?

My driveway is sloped downward, so when I was under there earlier today installing a Rally-Innovations skid plate. It seemed pretty tight in there for an oil change.

My ex-wife kept the house with the level driveway so hoping she won't mind if I use it for a bit : )
 

Escape2Bronco

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Just saw this... sorry...just making sure no issues crawling under there on level surface... to access the filter and proceed with an oil change?

My driveway is sloped downward, so when I was under there earlier today installing a Rally-Innovations skid plate. It seemed pretty tight in there for an oil change.

My ex-wife kept the house with the level driveway so hoping she won't mind if I use it for a bit : )
Just don’t spill (too much) on the x’s driveway!
 

Glamdring70

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Just saw this... sorry...just making sure no issues crawling under there on level surface... to access the filter and proceed with an oil change?

My driveway is sloped downward, so when I was under there earlier today installing a Rally-Innovations skid plate. It seemed pretty tight in there for an oil change.

My ex-wife kept the house with the level driveway so hoping she won't mind if I use it for a bit : )
I did that change in a level garage and didn't jack the suspension at all. The filter is way up front and you won't have to go under at all to get at it. You also need a cap wrench and maybe a 12" extension bar because there isn't any space to work a strap wrench or a ratchet. The bad news is the filter is vertical mounted. Engineers love it. Mechanics have to deal with 1/2 a quart draining out. Maybe you'll want to jam the old filter and let it drain but I just find vertical mounts messy no matter what. It wouldn't be hard to make a mess if you wanted to drop a stencil down and leave a spot with a message behind. Up to you to choose what ❤💩🍆
 

Mark S.

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Maybe you'll want to jam the old filter and let it drain but I just find vertical mounts messy no matter what.
You can poke a hole in the filter, but the anti-drain back valve will prevent all the oil above it from getting into the filter to drain. The filter itself will be empty, but that oil would have remained in the filter anyway. In other words, I don't see any real advantage in poking a hole in the filter.
 
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rdc17

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Having changed oil on multiple cars and watercraft, I've given up on the pursuit of a mess-free oil change.

The poke-a-hole method works on my Yamaha Waverunner pretty good since it's a top mounted filter.
 

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Fumoto F107SX fit my 2022 Bronco Sport Badlands 2.0 Liter engine without the the need for ADP-137 ½” Extension adapter. I ordered both, didn't use the ADP-137 part, but did steal the blue gasket from ADP-137. Sorry forgot to take a photo but it fit just fine - I pointed the spout downwards and don't seem to have a problem with fitment at all.

@Glamdring70 Nice write up, very useful. Any thoughts on replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto valve?
Yeah. I really wanted to do that. But if you shop the Fumoto site, they don't have a version that directly fits the Bronco Sport. You either need that intermediate piece to change the direction or they need another design [snipped]
 

Meanderthal

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Fumoto F107SX fit my 2022 Bronco Sport Badlands 2.0 Liter engine without the the need for ADP-137 ½” Extension adapter. I ordered both, didn't use the ADP-137 part, but did steal the blue gasket from ADP-137. Sorry forgot to take a photo but it fit just fine - I pointed the spout downwards and don't seem to have a problem with fitment at all.
Thanks for the Fumoto part number, I’ve been wondering which one to buy.
 

Glamdring70

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Fumoto F107SX fit my 2022 Bronco Sport Badlands 2.0 Liter engine without the the need for ADP-137 ½” Extension adapter. I ordered both, didn't use the ADP-137 part, but did steal the blue gasket from ADP-137. Sorry forgot to take a photo but it fit just fine - I pointed the spout downwards and don't seem to have a problem with fitment at all.
Nice find. I hadn't thought about those valves in a while and my second oil change is approaching. Did you just install it on the first change or have you had it long enough to actually use the valve? I ask because while it does provide a method to work with our pan design, it looks like it has really smaller throughput than the original. How long did it take to fully drain? Maybe that short nipple can be backed out to provide more volume?
 

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Nice find. I hadn't thought about those valves in a while and my second oil change is approaching. Did you just install it on the first change or have you had it long enough to actually use the valve? I ask because while it does provide a method to work with our pan design, it looks like it has really smaller throughput than the original. How long did it take to fully drain? Maybe that short nipple can be backed out to provide more volume?
First change so haven't gone through full drain using valve on this vehicle. Throughput is lower than full opened hole, notably so, but nothing I was bothered by in smaller Honda Fit which had similar SX-series valve (granted, ~3qt drain there vs ~5qt drain in BS BL). Makes for a slightly cleaner experience.
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