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Off roading upgrade suggestions
- Thread starter vyruz
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- off road suggestion upgrade
Most of the nudge bars are connected using the same points as the BL/FE recovery points, and if you can get a nudge bar with added recovery points on them (Ford bronco lifts offers) This will not pull your bumper off as they get attached to the frame. You can also just buy those recovery hooks.Most important thing to note. The Big Bend does NOT have skid or bash plates. They have composite covers over critical parts. Basically underbody liner.
There is no skid plate protection.
Only the badlands and First Edition have them. Off-roading with anything that can bash under your BB will require skid plates and I do not know of any aftermarket right now for the Base. OB or BB. Hopefully someone else might know.
You are talking about trying to make the BB into a BL. To be rugged you really should move up to a BL and sell the BB or buy a BL and keep the BB. Or buy a Bronco and keep or sell the BB.
The BS BL has the suspension, 2 additional goats, 4x4 lock, twin clutch locking dif, liquid coolant, hydraulic bump stops. Etc.
Do not put a nudge bar on a think it will take the place of tow hooks unless you want to be in a situation where the nudge tears right off and takes your bumper with it. Nudge bars are to push Like if a friend runs out of gas and needs a kind push.
If you are really wanting to be rugged where you are looking to go places that bash underneath and you may need help getting out of, I recommend driving something else rather than spending thousands trying to upgrade the BB. Join the unicorn crowd and order a 22 badlands!
Just my thoughts. I included a outline of the 2021 BS Trim levels To show that the undercarriage protection starts with the BL And in 2022 will only be on the BL as there will be no FE.
(I will also add as a caution that many of us know, even the BS BL has its Achilles heel without a skid for the very front radiator section in front (glass jaw should we say). For BS BL unicorn owners, this should be on a hunt list for everyone.)
They attach at the same location, but not in the same manner... the nudge brackets are held to the side of the frame with 2 bolts on each side i believe... from my understanding the hooks are actually threaded into the frqme and held on by the bolt locationif done correctly you could use the location with bracket modification and upgrade.... but it would take a little modding
Ok ... but is the hook bolt pull straight? to frame ... that is to say is the bolt going the same direction as the frame or is it just bolted on the the side?
Sorry, What I meant to say is that you have to make sure the nudge bar is intended to manage the same pull and weight as the tow hooks. Though they attach to same part of frame, how well built is the nudge bar to pull a full size vehicle without breaking the nudge bar off
It really depends on the bar and its attachment to the frame. 95% of the one's I see are NOT sufficient for use as a pulling point.
Now if you had a bull type bar with a winch that would be different. Or a bar with recovery points like the F Bronco. For all you know the nudge bar is hollow and its brackets cheap enough to break.
Just saying. Nudge is for nudge, Tow is for tow and winch is for winch.
I understand what is available for the Ford Bronco but that is a different vehicle and with them adding the recovery points they then infer it is strong enough. The current BS nudge is not built the same.
I would ask the manufacturer about the ability of their nudge to tow just to be sure.
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This is the rough country nudgebar bracket and bolt points... like i said ... if it was necessary it could be used .. especially if youre just needing that little help like in sand or slippery mud ... but i wouldnt use it if you were in a serious bind and really stuck qs it could result in some damage ... now with a little modification and step up a little thickness/ strength on the bracket , qnd assuming the tow points were located in the same location as were the nudge bar would connect, i would feel pretty confident using that location/ set up for most situqtions but i wouldnt rely on that little bracket as is on its own
In my opinion a better plan is to be prepared. Shovel and good Traction/recovery boards... youd be suprised what you can get out of with those things ... 2nd if youre determined to push your limits, id say get a hitch receiver and recovery hitch for it and hope you get stuck with a clear path to be yanked backwards ... plus it can qlways be used for its original purpose ... throw a hitch basket for icechest ... put a step hitch for easier roof access... pull small trailers...you could even mount offroad reverse/worklights off it... ill get back under and maybe see about adding a hook etc but theres q high probability youll need to drill into your frame...
I guess this wouldnt be bad to have ...
If you have the thread back there, seems to not be there if you got a factory tow package...I guess this wouldnt be bad to have ...
Ha .. well how bout that... good news is there are plenty of hitch recovery options ! How strange!If you have the thread back there, seems to not be there if you got a factory tow package...
Generally if you have a hitch receiver you travel in front of the person with front hooks, that way it's easier for recovery. Or better yet, just don't get stuck ??
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Lol at the “sell you car and get a badlands”
what kind of awesome fantasy world are these people living in? Money grows on trees, I guess.
what kind of awesome fantasy world are these people living in? Money grows on trees, I guess.
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Could not agree more about the bad design on the muffler mount... we had this happen when driving and now the dealership is trying to charge us 2k for a full replacement... essentially the muffler is bent up touching the driveshaft so when it rotates it grinds the metal.
We called Ford and they said there have been other reporting issues with this because the muffle sits so close and any rock, bump etc can cause this...
There's also no protection there...?‍
We called Ford and they said there have been other reporting issues with this because the muffle sits so close and any rock, bump etc can cause this...
There's also no protection there...?‍
Wow, that muffler is caved in and there's a pretty good sized dent in the tailpipe. Sorry but this appears to be a lack of driver understanding of a vehicle's capability limits, notably ground clearance.Could not agree more about the bad design on the muffler mount... we had this happen when driving and now the dealership is trying to charge us 2k for a full replacement... essentially the muffler is bent up touching the driveshaft so when it rotates it grinds the metal.
We called Ford and they said there have been other reporting issues with this because the muffle sits so close and any rock, bump etc can cause this...
There's also no protection there...?‍
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