DIODE DYNAMICS HITCH MOUNT LED POD WITH 4 PIN CONNECTER

[`Stress01]

Has anybody installed the Diode Dynamic hitch mount LED pod using the 4 pin connector. I recently purchased one for myself for Christmas and tried to install it yesterday. You have to tap into the reverse light wire in the taillight for the reverse light to work. Should I tap into the wire buy the bulb or the wire at the plug. Also I keep getting the trailer warning when I plug the harness into the outlet buy the hitch. I forgot to mention, I have a Badlands with the sasquatch package with the factory tow pkg. I wanted to get your guys opinion before I contact Diode Dynamics.

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[Ecom911]

Hi Jack,

I personally would not use the pod as you found out, it senses a "trailer" connection and therefore disables certain diving assist features you may want.

Additionally, "tapping" into wiring is always risky and not recommended unless there are "plug & Play" connectors. Some companies really cheap out and use pinch style connectors which are not water tight, promote corrosion, and will void your warranty.

I would recommend you weight out the pros and cons before installing and if you need more rear lighting, look at a good quality aftermarket kit that has it's own switched power source separate from the trailer harness.

Happy Trails!

 

[Whpony96]

100% return it and get your money back. The Canbus system in the Bronco Sport lighting harness and trailer towing sensors is going to cause you nothing but problems and headaches. Don't give the dealership a reason to void your warranty for cutting into a Canbus harness. They can literally say that caused anything else gone wrong since since it's part of the Canbus.

 

[Frenchy906]

100% return it and get your money back. The Canbus system in the Bronco Sport lighting harness and trailer towing sensors is going to cause you nothing but problems and headaches. Don't give the dealership a reason to void your warranty for cutting into a Canbus harness. They can literally say that caused anything else gone wrong since since it's part of the Canbus.

Ok, genuine curiosity here, so may I ask this… how does a U Haul or a company similar, install aftermarket hitches on vehicles without them from the factory then?

 

[Chiefthepup]

Ok, genuine curiosity here, so may I ask this… how does a U Haul or a company similar, install aftermarket hitches on vehicles without them from the factory then?

Plug and play. Usually a t harness that connects into your light and into your hitch wiring.

 

[Frenchy906]

Plug and play. Usually a t harness that connects into your light and into your hitch wiring.

I’ve been doing automotive electrical for 20 years now… i will admit the Canbus thing still confuses me a little bit…

And with that said, the plug and play adapter is still pulling the same voltage now when compared to no plug and play harness… right?

A 12v 5a draw on a system is the same whether it’s hard wired, or, in your case, a harness is adapted in.

So… how is there a difference here?

 

[Chiefthepup]

I’ve been doing automotive electrical for 20 years now… i will admit the Canbus thing still confuses me a little bit…

And with that said, the plug and play adapter is still pulling the same voltage now when compared to no plug and play harness… right?

A 12v 5a draw on a system is the same whether it’s hard wired, or, in your case, a harness is adapted in.

So… how is there a difference here?

The only difference is plug and play is way less invasive than hardwiring. And I would imagine would significantly help one’s chances at warranty covering something, compared to a splice/solder into existing wiring.
I hardwired into my taillights for my ford tow wiring harness and I mean those wires had to have been like 22-24 gauge. Sketchiest diy I’ve done and will never get that deep in again hahah.

As far as the CANBUS system, it is essentially a more efficient way of communication amongst modules in an electrical circuit. Instead of each module/sensor having its own wiring which creates huge wiring harnesses and more points of failure, every module connects to the same two wires.

The issue is if you damage those 2 wires anywhere on the circuit you disrupt communication amongst all modules.

im definitely not an expert on the subject but i got certified as a tech for Kubota when I thought I wanted to be a technician and I think im recalling that correctly.

 

[Frenchy906]

The only difference is plug and play is way less invasive than hardwiring. And I would imagine would significantly help one’s chances at warranty covering something, compared to a splice/solder into existing wiring.
I hardwired into my taillights for my ford tow wiring harness and I mean those wires had to have been like 22-24 gauge. Sketchiest diy I’ve done and will never get that deep in again hahah.

As far as the CANBUS system, it is essentially a more efficient way of communication amongst modules in an electrical circuit. Instead of each module/sensor having its own wiring which creates huge wiring harnesses and more points of failure, every module connects to the same two wires.

im definitely not an expert on the subject but i got certified as a tech for Kubota when I thought I wanted to be a technician and I think im recalling that correctly.

I understand “what” Canbus is. I’ve been dealing with it since I got my truck in 2006. One of the first few years it became more common. And what a nightmare coming from late 80s early 90s car electrical systems.

What I don’t get, is when people say “oh, it’s canbus you’ll screw up everything and void your warranty”. Which, I understand in theory, that’s possible… but then people say “adding this will void your warranty”.

How is it that places such as U Haul, your local mechanic, etc… can install these things on a daily basis, and have zero issues?

Because, simply tapping into a tail light to pull probably 2amps from turn signals, and maybe 5 from running lights, isn’t going to do anything to the system. Same concept as people who tap into the factory input wiring to add amplifiers, which draw SIGNIFICANTLY more amperage (which come from the battery directly)… but the input for the amplifier signal is ran off that same Canbus logic.

Now maybe if the circuit got overloaded, and someone had a grounding issue, and popped a fuse, then ya… it would probably mess up the sensitive canbus system then.

Easiest way, in my opinion, to bypass the canbus paranoia, would be to connect a relay to the battery for both the turn / running lights, so that additional amperage draw comes from the battery, rather than the cars dedicated electrical. Therefore, using the OEM turn / running light wires are solely used as a “signal” to turn the relay on, and draw its power directly.

 

[Quashish]

i haven't had any issues. i trust my soldered connections with glue lined heat shrink more than a crimp connector or bullet/spade connector. when i do use spades i still heat shrink the ends and also heat shrink again over the two connectors so no moisture gets in. i would rather my connections be secure and look as clean as possible, than it be "plug and play" or not. if i need it on the car it should probably be more of a permanent thing anyway.

from my ride thread

 

[Whpony96]

Ok, genuine curiosity here, so may I ask this… how does a U Haul or a company similar, install aftermarket hitches on vehicles without them from the factory then?

They use a the correct "box" that will divide the signals and work properly on a can-bus network. The LED light is just trying to cut or plug into you system. It simply not designed correctly to be compatible wit a can-bus network..

 

[Frenchy906]

The use a the correct box that will divide the signals properly. The LED light is just trying to cut or plug into you system. It simply not designed correctly to be compatible wit a can-bus network..

And you have first hand proof of this? Or…?

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