Boost gauge (not using forscan) and more

[Ksnau]

Hello, first thread I've started here and I wanted to do weeks ago but I've been busy with work but with a 3 day weekend and all my parts in I'm gonna try to get my boost gauge, catch can and blowoff valve put in and hopefully explain how in case anyone else wants to do it this way. I'm using basically the same parts I had on my 2014 escape 2.0 so I'm hoping it'll go smooth. I put a pic of the parts. It's a throttle body spacer (useless but for the two ports it gives me to reference vacuum and pressure after the throttle body. It cost like $40, up from the $25 I paid on the escape years back before covid, it's a vacuum/boost gauge by glowshift (I've used them in a number of builds since 2012, all positive experiences for a cheap gauge $33 this time. It's electric comes with sensor, has analog and digital, it's easy to wire up which is saying something cuz I hate doing electrical stuff, and it changes 7 colors so I can match my MyFord color thingy in the BS (that's what I call mine cuz the price was BS) also two check valves which cost $14 for both and an old eBay catch can I got years ago for about $25 and forgot about (I've used the $150+ ones and these are 9/10 as good as long as you do the hose right that's what's really different) and the blowoff valve is for a focus rs (the spacer ones didn't fit right on my escape 2.0) was $24. Only things I still need I can get at AutoZone down the road which are an addal a fuse which I prefer to use when doing stuff like that is and some hose for the catch can which I usually just use cheap heater cuz it's always worked in the past just make sure not to use qormgear clamps use the solid flat ones, I'll put a pic of on in case I'm not explaining it well but it helps to prevent cutting into the hose or the hose moving to the cuts the worm gear turns in.

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[Ksnau]

I'm about 2 hours in and my blowoff valve that I used on my 2014 escape 2.0 won't fit it's too deep and the bolt flange is just barely different. Ordered an adapter for the full size broncos and seems like that will work got it for $33 supposed to be here next week but that at least is fairly easy to get to don't have to remove anything. The intake manifold is a huge pain in the ass and still not off there's one big part of the wire harness on the way and I had to remove the egr and intake tube And tons of vacuum lines and wires that have those terrible plastic holders you just had to rip out basically. Also the rubber boot of the intake piping to the throttle body is pain to get to one ac line runs right in front of it along with some vacuum lines I'm thinking about deleting all of them cuz I can't see any neees for them except the ocv and my catch can setup will take it's place and be better. Also have lost two one socket one ratchet two bolts and a screwdriver and it's the Badlands so in addition to the plastic belly pan I usually just throw away on all my cars I have to get past the skid plate I will definitely keep so I assume they will all fall on me when I remove that to do my first oil change this weekend as well. I still love the car but for working on it it gets a big old negative 1000 on a scale of 1-10 so far. Also the intake valves are already looking bad so whatever Ford said they did to prevent that for a direct injection engine doesn't work or not enough I still don't get why they didn't do dual fuel with port and direct injection on this one too when so many other for engines have it. Seems like Ford typically cost cutting in the wrong areas that ruins what should be a great product with no negatives. Unfortunately. Not surprised at all they been doing it for as long as I've had fords. I would like to speak with the engineer who designed the engine bay layout well not speak more like punch in the face and then make them work on their own car and see how they like it. Anyways my phone camera is down. But I'll try to find a way to post pics and a video.

 

[Major Kong]

bump
grease monkey action thriller
looking forward to the sequels

 

[V8 Yankee]

Hello, first thread I've started here and I wanted to do weeks ago but I've been busy with work but with a 3 day weekend and all my parts in I'm gonna try to get my boost gauge, catch can and blowoff valve put in and hopefully explain how in case anyone else wants to do it this way. I'm using basically the same parts I had on my 2014 escape 2.0 so I'm hoping it'll go smooth. I put a pic of the parts. It's a throttle body spacer (useless but for the two ports it gives me to reference vacuum and pressure after the throttle body. It cost like $40, up from the $25 I paid on the escape years back before covid, it's a vacuum/boost gauge by glowshift (I've used them in a number of builds since 2012, all positive experiences for a cheap gauge $33 this time. It's electric comes with sensor, has analog and digital, it's easy to wire up which is saying something cuz I hate doing electrical stuff, and it changes 7 colors so I can match my MyFord color thingy in the BS (that's what I call mine cuz the price was BS) also two check valves which cost $14 for both and an old eBay catch can I got years ago for about $25 and forgot about (I've used the $150+ ones and these are 9/10 as good as long as you do the hose right that's what's really different) and the blowoff valve is for a focus rs (the spacer ones didn't fit right on my escape 2.0) was $24. Only things I still need I can get at AutoZone down the road which are an addal a fuse which I prefer to use when doing stuff like that is and some hose for the catch can which I usually just use cheap heater cuz it's always worked in the past just make sure not to use qormgear clamps use the solid flat ones, I'll put a pic of on in case I'm not explaining it well but it helps to prevent cutting into the hose or the hose moving to the cuts the worm gear turns in.

Good project, send a photo of the Boost Guage placement when u are done. I'm a old school guy and like to know what's happening under the hood. I prefer digital now days but grew up with analog. The main thing for me is placement that looks like a factory install. Hard to do as mostly likely Ford would have incorporated the guage into the instrument cluster. Still I like the idea of knowing what the turbo is doing, it's easier to manipulate the boost depending on the the throttle input and GOAT mode. At a minimum it's nice to get under the hood and turn a wrench, a man thing I guess, a few women too.

 

[Ksnau]

Yeah the problem is I'm not good at making things look nice every other car I've been able to buy a gauge pod that clips to the a pillar this one will definitely be tricky to make look good especially cuz I don't want to do anything that can't be undone but also not show the wires. In my 14 escape I was able to run the wires behind the instrument cluster and position it so it was right in front of it but not blocking anything important in the cluster I'm thinking of trying to find a way to do a single pod mount next to the screen where there is kind of a gap between it and the instrument cluster but I'm not sure. I wish they made an a piller gauge pod I only need one. Normally I would also have a fuel pressure and air/fuel gauge but since I probably won't be.doing big build on the engine I just want the boost gauge for diagnostics.

 

[Major Kong]

I'm thinking of trying to find a way to do a single pod mount next to the screen where there is kind of a gap between it and the instrument cluster but I'm not sure.

suggestion
generous amount of velcro applied to rear of screen
mating velcro applied to offset gauge mount
failure scenario easy removal
no permanent scars

 

[Rodrigo_V_U]

waiting to know how much boost pressure do we have in the BS .....

 

[Ksnau]

That was the exact spot I was thinking. I got the blowoff valve adapter in just buy the one meant for the 2.3 full size bronco and it goes right on doesn't even have to remove the intake pipe and only cost $33. Also got the intake manifold off wow what a pain but I got my lines routes for the catch can just gotta connect it I'm just so tired from putting the intake back on. Wow it's a pain tho. Haven't done the gauge yet cuz intake was such a pain but I'll let you know when I do I'm probably gonna tee off the small vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold on the passenger side. I didn't want to mess with cutting them but the lines for catch can are too much bigger than the gauge line to find a tee for. I'd put up pics but my damn phone camera isn't working right now but I'll borrow my roomates later to show the adapter and where I ran my catch hose. You can Google my video too on YouTube but I make terrible videos and most of it is bitching about how badly the engineers setup the engine bay on this one. It really vexes me how they changed it from my 2014 to this. It was so much simpler and I can't even figure why they did it.

 

[Barry S.]

suggestion
generous amount of velcro applied to rear of screen
mating velcro applied to offset gauge mount
failure scenario easy removal
no permanent scars

The loud whooshing sound you're hearing is this entire thread flying over my head.

 

[Mark S.]

The loud whooshing sound you're hearing is this entire thread flying over my head.

I can’t follow OP’s meandering posts either. Apparently I need punctuation.

 

[Major Kong]

I can’t follow OP’s meandering posts either. Apparently I need punctuation.

 

[Ksnau]

I do this all on my phone and my voice recognition doesn't work anymore (old pixel 4a and I'm not upgrading until it just stops doing everything I think it's crap a phone isn't supported after only a year or two) and I get tired of typing on the phone keyboard so I'm basically rushing thru to get the info out so it comes out bad. Basically I got the diverter valve adapter in. It was easy you just remove the 3 weird female torx bolts, but I had to buy sockets for the female torx to be able to get them off and of course lost two in the engine bay, I'll have to get them atynoil change which is very soon. I got them at AutoZone for like $22. But it only takes a few minutes to do the blow off valve adapter and you just buy one that fits the full size bronco 2.3. I think the 2.7 also fits but the ad for the one I got just said 2.3 so that's what I know works. Or you can just remove the hose to the intake and if you can find a plug that fits the barb on the intake pipe that the diverter valve goes to it does the same thing. Heck of you want it louder put on a longer hose and run it to the front bumper and you'll hear the whoosh sound even more. Also this is cheaper like only $5. You just have to do a little searching at your home improvement store or do some googling.

I got my add a fuse for the boost/vacuum gauge and it looks like I need a mini fuse, add a fuse because there are 3 sizes of fuses now and most use the mini (regular, mini, micro). I'm gonna start testing fuse locations that are not used in the engine bay fuse compartment, which says "scrap if dropped" which on an offroad marketed vehicle, seems like bull crap to me but whatever. I got just a cheap eBay gauge pod for $7 and I'm going to mount it next to the center screen and probably just run the wires from behind the steering wheel to the pod and hope it doesn't stick out too much. I'm hoping there is already a good grommet I can use to run the wires from the engine bay to the cabin, but I'll post what I do. I really don't want to drill holes and it looks like the center screen and the two center vents are all one piece and I feel like I'm gonna break it when I try to remove it.

Hoping to have pics soon but I've a trip this weekend so hopefully I can do it after work this week. Sorry for the crappy writing I'll try to do better.

 

[Ksnau]

Sorry my phone camera is broken hoping to get an update on here soon. Also I hit 8k miles this weekend on my trip to Flagstaff and it's still running like a champ. Only gripes (besides the mess of the engine bay with wires and vacuum lines and such) are no tilt on the rear of the powered seats, which seems ridiculous with a $40k price tag. I love the look but I wish they could have made it as aerodynamic as my escape as others have noted past 70 mph the mpg drops a lot. My road trip this weekend I was averaging almost 30 mpg going 70 mph, until I got impatient and went over 70. I still ended with 24.7 though but its almost all downhill on the way back. I also finally slept in the cab this weekend and just like my 14 escape I barely fit with the driver's seat pulled up most of the way and my feet right up against the rear hatch and I lie about being 5' 7''. So it works for me but probably not for most people.

 

[Ksnau]

I just thought I'd give an update. My full size bronco order came in and I traded in my 22 Badlands for it and for certain reasons the bronco wouldn't work but I was actually able to sell it to CarMax for $8000 more than I paid for it because I got price protection because I had to wait almost 2 years for it.

But I just got a bronco sport heritage limited (I didn't think I was even going to be able to find one let alone afford it but I worked with Peoria Ford and they were super awesome and worked with me and we were just barely able to make it happen for a really great price) so it's like the Badlands but with all the special heritage stuff and so I will get back to work on the boost gauge.

I almost had it done and then had to take it off to trade in the car so I got to find all the stuff but once I get it going again I'll post on here if anyone's interested because my full-size bronco came stock with a boost gauge so I didn't even have to bother with it on that one.

I'm also going to be putting a catch can on this one and the blow off valve adapter. I know I could just build one for like five bucks but the adapters only like 30 bucks and I just think it it looks better and that way I don't have to like cut any tubing or anything weird. It's just three screws and a spacer.

Also, for the sanity of some of the readers, I am trying to work on my punctuation and make different paragraphs and such for ease of reading but don't expect a lot.

 

[Sleddog]

You spend a lot of time taking about all these mods, 25 bucks here, bought stuff of eBay that, still no pictures.

Maybe it’s just me, but why reuse 10 y/o parts? Why not stop shopping on eBay and by the correct part to start with. You got a brand new vehicle, and paid good money for it, but yet you save a buck using old mods. It sounds like you are hacking up tubing and your electrical system.

Like all my hunting buddies say “No pictures? Then it didn’t happen.”

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