when do I get oil changed

[Mark S.]

5k is easy to remember...

Something that continues to increase in importance as time marches on...

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[sajohnson]

Since the subject came up -- there is no reason not to use 100% synthetic oil.

Synthetic used to be 3-4x the cost of dino (conventional) oil. For the last few years though the cost has been about the same (+/-). For just one example -- Mobil 1 is about $4.50 per quart on sale at Costco. There is a variety of synthetic oils available for ~$5 per quart.

Synthetic has several advantages and no disadvantages (if changed at the same interval).

Maybe it's not absolutely necessary. Maybe an engine will last just as long using dino oil. Maybe.

If synthetic cost $25/quart that would be one thing, but with prices about the same, synthetic is basically free insurance.

BTW -- most "synthetic blend" oil is only about 20% synthetic.

 

[Broncosprt57]

I changed the oil on my Badlands at just under 3000 miles. My Reason for doing so is that I’m a believer in “break-in” shearing and wanted to get the initial contaminants out.

I had this service done at my ford dealer As they hook up the first responders with $18.99 oil changes and $48.99 oil change, fluid top off (I need washer fluid), tire rotation, and a basic look over also I needed a NY inspection. $10 for new cars. So I figured why not.

However, Even at that price I will probably do my own oil changes going forward. Fords Motorcraft SynBlend is a good oil. It meets the ilsac-gf6a standard. However there’s a few things that I know that made this decision easier.

1. I for one like cars, and I enjoy maintaining and knowing and looking after the core maintenance areas. I spot stuff before it goes wrong and if there’s something I can’t do, I tell them what’s wrong and that I want it addressed.

2. blend oils will not protect from wear as well as a synthetic oil. It’s has to do with its molecular structure and overall properties. Not going to get technical here but the best synblend can’t compete with how easily synthetic flows, the longer duration of suspension of wear particles and it’s resilience to evaporative loss.

3. Cost, the price difference between synblend and synthetic when you do it yourself is negligible in the scheme of things. Motorcraft filters can be purchased for under $4 at Walmart. Good synthetic oils which will be better than any synblend can be purchased for less than motorcraft at a dealer or even retail ($32.99 5/qt) Kirkland signature $17/5qts, Mobil Synthetic $22.99. Super tech $22 or Amazon Basics are all great “base” synthetics. You can choose to upgrade to something with more “anti-wear additives” but those oils I’ve mentioned will do fine with a 5000 mile change interval.

4. our cars are Gasoline direct injection and turbocharged synthetics are king here. Preignition is basically impossible or greatly reduced with synthetic. Every turbocharged car I’ve owned (Saabs, Volvos) has required synthetic. I can’t see why this wouldn’t hold true to a ford with GDI. The oil will get where it needs to go faster, and keep protecting the engine longer.

5. I live in the northeast, it gets cold. Synthetic flows better. That’s simple fact. more lubrication, less heat and wear.

6. I don’t care what any manual says, change your oil at 6 months or 5000 max. Good rule of thumb is just before winter, and just before summer and in between if needed. My wife has a cx-5 I can easily see a difference in the oil when I change it at 5k and when I changed it at 7500k, as the book suggests.

7. Ford is a business, they don’t make oil. They likely have a business friendly deal with a conventional oil manufacturer to push their synthetic blend. It’s a good product for sure. Customers hear “Synthetic” and think they’re getting synthetic performance at conventional price. This cheaper oil (at the dealer level) helps keep maintenance costs down resulting in favorable “cost to own” numbers over the life of the car. There’s no perceivable way to state that blend is better than true synthetic. Ford likely gets a nice kickback for the more synblend it sells.

the only “benefit” to a conventional based oil is probably in cars that “sit” or go longer periods between drives. Synthetics additives can separate and water can form and accumulate. This is very highly unlikely scenario in a daily driver type vehicle and even then the 6 month, 5000 mile rule will eliminate that.

synthetic blend - “better”

synthetic “best”

but hey if you only plan on keeping the car a short time and less mileage. The synblend is good. It’s a product that likely meets the bare minimum or “good enough” standard.

so with that being said what oil am I using going forward?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Why? It’s the best.

I can afford it by doing it myself, and I know it will protect the engine the best. I drive up and down hills, 4x4 off-road, cold weather, hot weather. I idle, stop and go and have to push it on the highway when I need to merge or get off the highway. My BS 2.0 will be pushed, I want it to run like new longer and I’ve gotten that result with synthetics.

as far as a filter, I’m probably going to test the purolator boss. It filters more particles while maintaining a good flow rate. Nothing “wrong” with the fl-910s but 80% at 20 microns is a bit on the low end.

 

[Tall Timbers]

I do oil changes at approximately 5000 mile intervals. I prefer to do it myself as it gives me a chance to inspect things from underneath. I often find little things that need attention, like an axle seal or someting that's just beginning to leak. I use full synthetic but am not religious about the oil brand. I use motocraft filters because they are inexpensive and easy to get.

 

[Outback Texan]

My Badlands is way down in South Texas... pretty hot summers... dealer suggested every 5,000 miles with their synthetic blend. I bought the Ford pre-maintenance plan so I'll get 10 of those prepaid, regardless of price increases. At the rate I'm going, that will last me several years.

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