Unsolved Mysteries of the BS Electrical system - Battery(?)

[Mark S.]

I suggested on another post that it's a hose that they could probably get at Ace Hardware.

There's a difference between Ace Hardware store hose and the fuel/fire resistant hoses used in modern automotive manufacture.

It's not even threaded, and you cover it with loctite and push it into an existing hole in the engine. I'm amused to the point of a "Face Palm" reaction. Loctite in a hole where gas could be flowing ? ? ?

You gotta know your materials. This isn't typical Loctite thread sealant you might have in your garage toolbox. It's Loctite 638, which is a "retaining compound." It's designed for just this purpose.

Oh and it runs down to a pre-existing hole on a bracket at the bottom of the engine. You could easily get the impression that it was already supposed to be there, and they figured they'd save 50 cents and not include it on a million vehicles.

This is the kind of overblown, speculative comment that doesn't add anything to understanding. I get that you might feel this way, but it would be of much more service to your fellow forum members if you had some evidence to back up your feelings.

f you watched the video, the battery has to be removed to install this Perfect(?) fix for another quality Ford part. OK - I'm being dramatic, but this Hare brained fix requires pulling the battery and battery tray, and this is no easy activity. There's multiple wires and harnesses that have to be unbolted and pried loose, or cut loose from miscellaneous attachments. Putting it all back in place just begs for mistakes crimped wires or who knows.

Yes, working on modern engines can be a complicated endeavor. You probably shouldn't be mucking around under the hood unless you know what you're doing.

OK _ I'm still waiting. Does anyone have an explanation why voltage would drop on acceleration, and climb while idling ? ?

I wish I could help you there. This is one of those issues that requires the diagnostic tools only available at a Ford service department. Anyone looking for a new car should keep this in mind when shopping; after-purchase service should be a factor in your purchase decision. If you don't have a dealership near you that you trust to help with problems like this then you might want to look at a different brand.

Drama class is over

Somehow, I think not...

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[Bucko]

There's a difference between Ace Hardware store hose and the fuel/fire resistant hoses used in modern automotive manufacture.



You gotta know your materials. This isn't typical Loctite thread sealant you might have in your garage toolbox. It's Loctite 638, which is a "retaining compound." It's designed for just this purpose.



This is the kind of overblown, speculative comment that doesn't add anything to understanding. I get that you might feel this way, but it would be of much more service to your fellow forum members if you had some evidence to back up your feelings.



Yes, working on modern engines can be a complicated endeavor. You probably shouldn't be mucking around under the hood unless you know what you're doing.



I wish I could help you there. This is one of those issues that requires the diagnostic tools only available at a Ford service department. Anyone looking for a new car should keep this in mind when shopping; after-purchase service should be a factor in your purchase decision. If you don't have a dealership near you that you trust to help with problems like this then you might want to look at a different brand.



Somehow, I think not...

I always bought fuel hose from a BMW parts shop. Their fuel hose is top grade. As to the tube that pushes into the upper engine hole along with the loctite, I'll leave that trust to Ford.

 

[biglarrr]

There's a difference between Ace Hardware store hose and the fuel/fire resistant hoses used in modern automotive manufacture.



You gotta know your materials. This isn't typical Loctite thread sealant you might have in your garage toolbox. It's Loctite 638, which is a "retaining compound." It's designed for just this purpose.



This is the kind of overblown, speculative comment that doesn't add anything to understanding. I get that you might feel this way, but it would be of much more service to your fellow forum members if you had some evidence to back up your feelings.



Yes, working on modern engines can be a complicated endeavor. You probably shouldn't be mucking around under the hood unless you know what you're doing.



I wish I could help you there. This is one of those issues that requires the diagnostic tools only available at a Ford service department. Anyone looking for a new car should keep this in mind when shopping; after-purchase service should be a factor in your purchase decision. If you don't have a dealership near you that you trust to help with problems like this then you might want to look at a different brand.



Somehow, I think not...

Well for today -maybe.
Ummmm - I hope this doesn't sound too dramatic, but I got stupid when I saw the Bronco Sport the first time. I had to have it. I kicked aside all the red flags and common sense that tells you to never buy a vehicle in its first production year.
I didn't do any real research until I had keys in my pocket.
I think about getting rid of it at least once a week, but then I wash it look at it and figure I'll vent on the forum and keep it awhile longer.

 

[Mark S.]

but then I wash it look at it and figure I'll vent on the forum and keep it awhile longer.

They are purty, aren't they? I say vent away, as long as you don't object to alternative viewpoints.

 

[biglarrr]

They are purty, aren't they? I say vent away, as long as you don't object to alternative viewpoints.

It's Drama time ! ! You know I got an A in Drama Class. OK - Here goes.
IT - IS - A - MIRACLE
So - the Voltage meter says my BS is back to normal.
Readings were between 14.6 and 14.8 on a twenty mile drive we took today.
A -N-D I'm pretty sure I know why I was seeing the 12.9
There's just one teensy weensy detail that eludes me, but obviously I'm going to elaborate.

Got in the car this morning and looked at the voltmeter and it was on 14.6 (as I expected since I didn't have my foot on the accelerator.
BUT - Lo and Behold, I pulled into the street and started driving and it stayed right there 14.6-14.8.
N-O-W for the past few days, the start/Stop feature had been working almost immediately. By the time I'd get to the first stop light five blocks away, the engine would shut off when I stopped.
Sooo - Back to this morning, I told my wife "I'll bet you the Start/Stop doesn't work at the stoplight.
And I was right. It didn't work once until we were on our way home, and we both chimed out at the same time "It shut off"
So - here's my conclusion -
#1 It didn't have anything to do with the computer upgrade when the injector recall was done.
#2 It did have to do with my new battery that has to be charged at least once a month.
NOTE: I've accepted that I'm going to have to do this since I don't drive my BS every day, and I've heard the excuse from numerous sources that if You don't drive it, the battery doesn't get charged.
NOTE/NOTE: I've never heard anything so silly in my life, but - whenever the Start/Stop quits working, I put it on charge, and "Voila" it works for a week or so.
*************************
I had charged the battery the night before I took it in for the recall, and apparently that charge was enough to make the alternator logic chip decide it didn't need to be charged while I was driving so I was seeing the actual battery voltage.
A-N-D this is where that one teensy weensy little flaw in my logic comes in. WHY was the voltage showing 14.6 when I was idling, or had my foot off the gas?

Well - I guess that's a mystery that will never be solved, because this story is over ( I hope)

Do you think I have a future as a Story teller?
Note: I did not spellcheck so deal with it.

 

[Mark S.]

#1 It didn't have anything to do with the computer upgrade when the injector recall was done.
#2 It did have to do with my new battery that has to be charged at least once a month.

It's a theory. Now you just need to devise a way to test it.

 

[biglarrr]

It's a theory. Now you just need to devise a way to test it.

Nah - I'm actually giving minimal consideration to taking the advice of the Service Manager I talked to.
Put the voltmeter away and enjoy driving it for awhile.
I don't know if I can let it go.
Pray for me. No Don't. You could bet me a quarter though.

 

[Bucko]

If your theory does not hold up, try my chicken bone fix I've mentioned in other threads....toss them up in the air and chant: "be gone, battery demons, be gone".

The neighbors stay far away from me too.

 

[Mark S.]

The neighbors stay far away from me too.

Is it because of the bones or the chanting?

 

[Bucko]

Is it because of the bones or the chanting?

Yes, and my speedo.

 

[Namies8]

I'm chiming in late....but I think there may be something to you noting that the battery must be removed to do the hose install.

I had my recall work done the last week of March. Suddenly this week - my car completely dies while auto starting back up at a stop sign. After 2 hours, it starts like nothing is wrong. Worked fine for a day - the next morning completely dies on startup again - than back up after a couple of hours. Battery checked fine after it got back up and running.

I am now wondering if they didn't mess something up with the connectors/harness when doing the recall hose install.

 

[BSBB4Les]

Wow! I'm not alone! Two weeks ago I had that service recall done. This morning my BS was D.E.A.D.! in the garage and no way to jump it. Called AAA and they jumped it and I had them tow it to the local Ford dealership. Spent the rest of the day waiting for them to perform batt. tests and recharge it to full. Everything they did said the battery was good. I'm going to purchase a portable jump starter.

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