Leaking roof rail

[JillDorbeck]

I purchased a used 2021 Bronco sport with 34,9xx miles. I’ve had it almost three months. At 16 days after purchasing, the vehicle became possessed and did weird things. Groaning and flashing lights. $440 tow to the dealer, two weeks in the shop and a new battery later-problem solved.
It took me a bit to notice the water on the drivers side floor as a leak (now monsoon season in CO). My BS is now at 37,5xx. The dealer determined the roof rail needs replacing and the rotors are warped. Neither of which are covered my the extended warranty. I get how I am responsible for the breaks but I’m beyond frustrated. This is my first Ford and I’m about ready to sell it/trade it in. Any suggestions on how to self repair a roof rail leak? I was quoted $700 for the rail and 6 hours of labor charge (out of my budget after the tow, down payment, registration etc)
Thanks!

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[SeaJay]

Buying a used, first year of production vehicle . . . Sigh. The damn things so handsome it’s just not fair to let them roam around out there without some type of warning label.

 

[JillDorbeck]

I know! It’s everything I wanted in a small SUV for living in Colorado. I’ve never put anything on the roof rack but who says the previous owner didn’t. I about cried at the estimates and was given a number to call but my dealer say sorry you are out of luck.

 

[RSH]

It's just outside of bumper to bumper warranty period, you can try approaching another dealer and see if they/Ford would consider a good faith warranty adjustment, maybe they'll offer to split the cost. If they wont do anything I would check with a couple of body shops or apholstery shops to see what they would do or recommend.

 

[ESBadlands]

I replaced a set of roof rails on a 4runner with a Prinsu roof rack. It bolted in the stock location and the instructions had us put silicone in the bolt holes before tightening. I’m not sure where your leak is exactly but it might be worth trying to unbolt and seal up.

 

[Mark S.]

My BS is now at 37,5xx. The dealer determined the roof rail needs replacing and the rotors are warped.

First, "warped rotors" is a bit (well, more than a bit) of a misnomer. It's almost a certainty that your rotors are not warped. With so few miles on the car, I doubt there is anything more wrong with your brakes than uneven deposits of brake pad material on the rotors (see the article at the link above).

You can sometimes resolve this issue by pulling the pads off, and scuffing both the pads and the rotors to remove any glazed material. The only downside to this is the combination of the brake pads in use and your driving habits have already demonstrated a propensity for this issue, and it's likely to repeat if you keep the same pads in place.

The best way to deal with this is to replace both the pads and the rotors. If you have this done at your dealership they will likely replace everything with OEM parts, and you'll likely find yourself right back to square one in the future. I would do some research in your area and find a reputable shop that specializes in brakes. They can find a good combination of rotors and pads to fit your driving style and avoid future issues.

 

[JillDorbeck]

Thank you!
I live in the mountains so steep highways are a thing. I only notice the shaking when braking on steep graded down hills. I’ve tried downshifting to save the brakes but it shifts down and the rpm’s go to 5000 to 5500.
I was looking at after market rotors to handle the driving conditions I live in.

 

[Mark S.]

Thank you!
I live in the mountains so steep highways are a thing. I only notice the shaking when braking on steep graded down hills. I’ve tried downshifting to save the brakes but it shifts down and the rpm’s go to 5000 to 5500.
I was looking at after market rotors to handle the driving conditions I live in.

I wouldn't worry too much about the RPM going downhill. Your owner's manual specifically says to use engine braking on steep grades, so it shouldn't be an issue. Slow down early, downshift, then let the car slowly accelerate. Don't ride the brakes going downhill, that will definitely overheat them. Allow the car to accelerate, apply the brakes for a few seconds to slow back down, then take your foot off the brakes and let the car accelerate again. Use that pattern: apply brakes to slow, then foot off while car accelerates downhill. The time with your foot off the brakes gives them time to cool down before you apply them again.

 

[JillDorbeck]

This is what I do…I’ve never over heated and warped brakes before in my life with this method yet somehow my rotors are bad.

 

[Mark S.]

This is what I do…I’ve never over heated and warped brakes before in my life with this method yet somehow my rotors are bad.

It's possible this problem existed with your car before you purchased it. Not everyone knows how to drive downhill.

 

[wireman]

It's possible this problem existed with your car before you purchased it. Not everyone knows how to drive downhill.

This for sure. I've seen drivers ride the brakes going downhill for miles. They don't have a clue!!

 

[NMhunter]

My mechanic brother-in-law once told me that parking against a curb with hot brakes will warp your rotors.

Unless they have really been abused, at less than 40,000 miles your rotors probably just need to be "turned". They put it on a lathe and cut a fresh wear surface. Any brake shop can do that for you, as well as a lot of auto parts stores.

Brake jobs aren't all that difficult, especially on disc brakes, so you may want to learn how to do it. I showed my granddaughter how. You just need a big "C" Clamp to compress the hydraulics before putting the new ones in. You can probably rent the clamp at an outo parts store.

NAPA sells good brake pads. They cost a bit more but the shorter stopping distance seems well worth it. I expect you'll have to go to Denver for most of this.

I'm not obsessed with looks, so if it were me, I'd just get a tube of clear silicone and put a tiny bead around the base of the roof rack.

 

[Alfa 2407]

I know! It’s everything I wanted in a small SUV for living in Colorado. I’ve never put anything on the roof rack but who says the previous owner didn’t. I about cried at the estimates and was given a number to call but my dealer say sorry you are out of luck.

Look up the videos of the install of a jcr roof rack, purchase a new roof rail, the video will walk you through the removal, just reverse the process for install, and it's possible that the sealant on the rail was messed up and just needs re-done, worst case scenario 400$ and 5 hours, best case scenario 20$ and 5 hours

 

[Alfa 2407]

As for the brakes, I second what Mark and wireman said, though it's also possible they just have uneven brake deposits, but it's a similar problem with the same solution, just have them turned down

 

[frederik_db]

I purchased a used 2021 Bronco sport with 34,9xx miles. I’ve had it almost three months. At 16 days after purchasing, the vehicle became possessed and did weird things. Groaning and flashing lights. $440 tow to the dealer, two weeks in the shop and a new battery later-problem solved.
It took me a bit to notice the water on the drivers side floor as a leak (now monsoon season in CO). My BS is now at 37,5xx. The dealer determined the roof rail needs replacing and the rotors are warped. Neither of which are covered my the extended warranty. I get how I am responsible for the breaks but I’m beyond frustrated. This is my first Ford and I’m about ready to sell it/trade it in. Any suggestions on how to self repair a roof rail leak? I was quoted $700 for the rail and 6 hours of labor charge (out of my budget after the tow, down payment, registration etc)
Thanks!

Just repaired it. Poor construction. Pull off side handles, pull visor, pull roof lining on one side just enough so you can get to the screws (7). press / clicking mechanism has to leak over time. Replaced rubber washers with rubber washers I bought at home depot.