Constant issues with 2021 sport base

[eatkinson6178]

Can anyone else relate?

Took my vehicle in last June due to needing routine maintenance but also my heat and USB ports weren’t working. Was told by the dealership service department it would be 7-9 hours before they could diagnose the issue. I made another appointment for the heat repair and USB port issue. Get home a few hours later, pop the hood and notice that the coolant reservoir is empty. Call the dealership back because their inspection form says that the fluids were topped off… I was overly pregnant at the time and didn’t have me to deal with them so I cancelled the appointments. I fixed the coolant issue my self. I’ve been without the front USB ports

Fast forward to this month, my check engine light comes on. I get the code. Call the dealership. Customer service rep tells me that it’s an emissions code and that TN doesn’t have any emissions laws so it’s not a necessary immediate fix. EXCEPT he didn’t mention that my BS might not want to start after fueling up.

I’ve also started hearing the dreaded rear end grinding noise…

My experience so far with the BS has been not so great.

Does anyone have a cost estimate on the evap fix? I’m 2,500 miles past warranty….

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[Sensei]

Make sure your fuel door flap is CLEAN. I had an evap code popping every 4-5 days (clear and return) and noone could figure it out as everything tested perfect. I cleaned the seal around the fuel door and the code went away and has not returned in months

 

[cprcubed]

Based on this:

Customer service rep tells me that it’s an emissions code and that TN doesn’t have any emissions laws so it’s not a necessary immediate fix.

I would find a new dealer as that response is complete BS! Keep checking that coolant level (especially if you simply topped it off when it was low). There have been numerous threads with leaky waterpumps as the cause for low coolant levels with the 1.5L engine. Cheers!

 

[eatkinson6178]

Make sure your fuel door flap is CLEAN. I had an evap code popping every 4-5 days (clear and return) and noone could figure it out as everything tested perfect. I cleaned the seal around the fuel door and the code went away and has not returned in months

Will that help with the not wanting to start after fueling?

 

[MGM]

Unfortunately...I can relate somewhat:

The bad:
- Rear Differential grinding noise - fixed tied up at dealer 2 weeks. (@12K miles)
- Fuel Injector recall (6 month wait on parts)
-Front Brakes recall - now significant dust on front wheels....YECHHH! and creaking noise at slow stops.
-Rear brake moaning noise - not yet fixed.
- Battery replacement (@18K miles).
- Dead spots in headlights (looks like black small circles in headlights projection). TSB.
- Terrible gas mileage (1.5L) 21 city, 24 HWY (and I drive very conservatively)
- Qwerky shut-off and locking, sometimes light bars in front stay, or dash lights stay on. Occasional 2 beeps of horn upon shutting off vehicle. Have to cycle open and then lock a few times to get proper shut-down.
- Finicky USB port connection to phone, have to disconnect, then connect again, to get Apple Car Play or Android Auto going...or they just stop and have to reset entire infotainment system.

The Good:
- I absolutly adore the vehicle design, carbonized grey color scheme and drivability.
- One of the most stable vehicles I've driven.

For me its a love/hate relationship. I now have 26K miles. As much as I like the vehicle, I will unload it when the factory warranty expires. I am a legacy Bronco and Bronco II owner and have owned a few Escapes along the way, but my Bronco Sport is by far is the worst in terms of my comfort-level with reliability. I know that every vehicle has its own share of issues....but I've never felt uncomfortable in terms of quality as I do this one.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Can anyone else relate?

Took my vehicle in last June due to needing routine maintenance but also my heat and USB ports weren’t working. Was told by the dealership service department it would be 7-9 hours before they could diagnose the issue. I made another appointment for the heat repair and USB port issue. Get home a few hours later, pop the hood and notice that the coolant reservoir is empty. Call the dealership back because their inspection form says that the fluids were topped off… I was overly pregnant at the time and didn’t have me to deal with them so I cancelled the appointments. I fixed the coolant issue my self. I’ve been without the front USB ports

Fast forward to this month, my check engine light comes on. I get the code. Call the dealership. Customer service rep tells me that it’s an emissions code and that TN doesn’t have any emissions laws so it’s not a necessary immediate fix. EXCEPT he didn’t mention that my BS might not want to start after fueling up.

I’ve also started hearing the dreaded rear end grinding noise…

My experience so far with the BS has been not so great.

Does anyone have a cost estimate on the evap fix? I’m 2,500 miles past warranty….

Hi Emily! I can look into your Bronco's noise concern on my end. To get started, could you please send a private message over with the name/location of your local Ford dealer and your Bronco's VIN?

 

[thomasm23]

You need to speak to the service manager. Every state has emissions regulations and must meet federal standards. Some states also follow California standards. If your check engine light is on, it needs to be addressed. It sounds like you may have a EVAP purge valve stuck. Do not “top off” your fuel tank. If the purge valve is not addressed, you may not be able to start your vehicle

The lack of heat and low coolant is probably a leaking water pump.

There is a TSB regarding the rear differential sound.

 

[Sensei]

Will that help with the not wanting to start after fueling?

Do not know it never refused to start after refueling. Also they suggest not to overfill. When the pump auto shuts off, do not top off. I guess it causes fuel to backwash to the purge vavle.

 

[eatkinson6178]

I usually don’t top off… I did figure out if I pressed the gas and turned the key at the same time it’ll start lol ? roughly.. but it’ll start.

 

[Halloweentwins]

Can anyone else relate?

Took my vehicle in last June due to needing routine maintenance but also my heat and USB ports weren’t working. Was told by the dealership service department it would be 7-9 hours before they could diagnose the issue. I made another appointment for the heat repair and USB port issue. Get home a few hours later, pop the hood and notice that the coolant reservoir is empty. Call the dealership back because their inspection form says that the fluids were topped off… I was overly pregnant at the time and didn’t have me to deal with them so I cancelled the appointments. I fixed the coolant issue my self. I’ve been without the front USB ports

Fast forward to this month, my check engine light comes on. I get the code. Call the dealership. Customer service rep tells me that it’s an emissions code and that TN doesn’t have any emissions laws so it’s not a necessary immediate fix. EXCEPT he didn’t mention that my BS might not want to start after fueling up.

I’ve also started hearing the dreaded rear end grinding noise…

My experience so far with the BS has been not so great.

Does anyone have a cost estimate on the evap fix? I’m 2,500 miles past warranty….

oh where do I begin. Mine started with no heat and it went in shop. Replaced head gasket after having it for 5 weeks. Got it back. Overheat light came on two weeks later. Had it towed to ford and they said air pocket in coolant. Two weeks later it is back in again bc I said there is a knocking noise and it is not running right sometimes. 2.5 yrs old, 30,000 miles on it, I am getting a new engine! They found metal shavings in my oil pan!

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